My names Julian Sacco, I live in Toronto and I’m a knifemaker slash maker of whatever crazy thing I can imagine. I have no professional training, so most of what you see here is a product of trial and error and countless broken blades. Most of my work gets posted on my Instagram, occasionally here. Hope to see you around, cheers!
WOW!!!! On one hand you really inspire me!! On the other hand, you create such incredible ART that if makes me want to hang up my tools and take up knitting because I'll never be the artist that you are!!! Just incredible !!!
Man I’ve been making knives for a few years now and I’ve gotten more value out of your videos than probably anything else I’ve come across. You do an awesome job man
I’m so glad to hear that 🙏🏼 if one person gets any value out of my videos than I’ve done what I’ve set out to do. Glad they’re helping you on your knife making journey 👊🏼
@@saccoknives And what is the concept that makes what I've written untrue? You took a flat piece of steel, heated it a few times, hit it with a hammer a few times and then used angle grinder to get a shape that looked nothing like your "forged" product. For me, personally, "Forging" is a bit of a clickbait in this case.
@@GohanSama stretched a piece of steel, forged in distal tapers in both directions, it all ads a level of uniqueness and character to the final piece. Forging is simply a different way of making a knife. It’s also a way to get more out of your steel by stretching the material.
@@saccoknives You talk about "getting more out of your steel" and then you cut a shitload of it away with an angle grinder. Your grinding skills are top. Your forging needs work. Technically, this knife went through a forge, but I would not call this a forged knife.
Like an integral you mean? Forging an integral is a completely different sort of technique, much more difficult than the route I’ve taken here in my opinion. It comes down to personal preference really
That's a very nice knife. Before final glue-up, do you take any steps to remove the wax left behind in the handle from the bedding step? I have concerns about that left behind wax inhibiting the bond between the epoxy and tang in the final glue-up. Nobody seems to be concerned with that, so maybe I'm just too pessimistic.
Question since I love hand sanding as much as the next guy. Has anyone thought to take the cheap Chinese 1x6 diamond 400 or 600 grit stones and hand sand with those to speed up the process? Then hand sand to satin with the rhinowhet to 800 grit or so?
there exists such a thing. I know of Falcon Sanding Stones that makes some and I've seen them sold on Maritime Knife Supplies website, I'm sure theres more companies out there making some too!
Amazing video, and easy to follow. Great explanation as to WHY you are doing things and offering suggestions on how to do it differently. Thank you very much for this video
This is helpful. Thank you. When do you blend your transition from handle to blade? Is that during hand-sanding? Also what leather do you use for your disc sander? Just glue it on before gluing on your abrasive? Thank you!
Glad you’ve found it helpful! I’ll usually blend that transition with my disc sander while it has the leather backing, just carefully touch it so I don’t wash out the flat area for the handle scales to sit on. Then it can be blended further during hand sanding. For the leather on my disc I’m using 8oz veg tan, but be sure to chamfer and round the edge of the side where you stick the sandpaper, if you leave it at a 90 degree it is very very easy to catch the edge of your knife, and that is extremely dangerous and scary. I use 3m feathering disc adhesive for the disc, also use it on the leather. Hope this helps
Was wondering if a light folding table like that would be able to cope with hand sanding, and that rocking motion answered my question. That would drive me nuts.
It definitely moves a bit but to be honest I’ve been using it for so long I don’t even notice anymore. Though sometimes I’ll throw a 60lb anvil on the other end and it solves that issue
