Great video, a lot of patience required in that repair👍🏼 I received this game Christmas 78’ & loved it, I wonder what happened to it. Been trying to get another but prices are crazy even for spares or repair. Keep up the good work as I’m learning a lot from your videos.
Thanks h4rpol, prices on some handheld games have shot up recently I'm not sure why. Some retro computers seem cheaper at the moment. I might try to repair one of those again. Thanks so much for your kind words
Good luck it's a fun game and a great looking design. I found it a bit top heavy to play for long periods, but at least I wanted to play it for those long periods. Stop back and let me know how you got along. Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for your kind feedback.
Hi again. Managed to remember & take my multimeter home😂 right away I found the 1st diode you checked maybe my problem. One direction I'm getting 0.6 but the other I'm getting 2.1 😲 Do you think this is the culprit?@@RetroTechRepair... Update, I isolated the diode & it's reading are normal, so checked the transistor c1383 & got the same results you did so I'm going to order 1 & try.🤞🏼
Great... I was going to suggest that, testing parts in circuit is a bit hit and miss, it depends on the circuit design whether other parts affect the outcome of an in circuit test. Anyhow, good luck with the repair. Hope the transistor fixes it
@@RetroTechRepair received a new C1383 transistor today, however the code on it is different. It still has C1383 but instead of “R 9D” it has “Y 3AL” & is slightly smaller. Do you think this is incompatible?
@@h4rpo1 I'd guess it's just the date code and the size difference is just a different manufacturer or newer part. I'm no expert but If it were mine I'd probably try it.
Congratulations. You just scammed an unsuspecting buyer. Probably red ringed again in a week. SCAMMER ALERT!!! Does it feel good to scam people? Sociopath.
What an abomination of a video. If I were you I'd delete this embarrassment. First of all that heatsink mountning is not original. And it's bad for the board. Second, the heatgun trick only revives the console temporarily maybe a couple of days. Reflow/reball doesn't fix the underlying problem which is a design fault in the GPU. Only permanent fix is to replace the GPU with a fixed revision with high Tg underfill material.
Si interesting. I Have one where the device works but the adhesive on the ribbon to the lcd has started to come off. Can you recommend a conductive adhesive glue that might help? Or maybe some other way. Regards in advance
I don't have any advice but do have a unit with the exact same problem so I might experiment. If I find anything that works I'll put a video out here so stay tuned
@@RetroTechRepair I have been trying to source the conductive rubber by zebra. But I can't find a source in Europe. I managed to but one with a cracked case but fully working and swapped out the parts, successfully. I tried looking for the other Casio's with the same chip but far too expensive.
I got the PT10 and did the surgery only to find that the fault still existed. so I took the vltone chip and put that into the pt10 and it works fine. Do you have any advice on how to test the traces. When you did it, how did you do it? did you mark each trace with something to show it was ok or did you do that on paper? I have at my disposal an oscilloscope, a multitester and a multi device tester but Iit doesn't test the components in situ. like the smb caps. Your advice would be most welcome.
Thanks so much for your comment. You are quite correct, this one is from the UK. Interesting info about the US model. Thanks. Hope you enjoyed the video.
I'm sorry but I don't know where to get a screen unless you buy an broken unit. I get all my stuff from eBay, but I'm sure you've looked there. Sorry I can't help, but thanks so much for your question
Hey, great job this sounds like it’s all based on Celestine Dessike's Words of Desire. And yes, that’s the material you need to have him resonating with erotic electricity at your will. Sounds like too much IK, but just for the basics it's worth go'ogling her ;)
Could be but a cracked solder joint is not out of the question, nor is that repeated key pressing may have worked off some surface corrosion. These things happen sometimes we just get lucky
Hi there! Can you/anyone help me? Ive got a dragon 32 myself, and I read in several postings, in the history of this computer it happened, that they delivered 64k models with 32k on it, just to get anything sold, when theyve had problems in production. So, does anybody know how I can check this? How do I get to know? I bought mine in spain, and there had to be those computers being sold like that. I would be glad if anybody could help. THX - Anne
Hi Anne, I think they did ship some Dragon 32s that used 64k ram chips, these were probably bought as "defective" chips. The "extra" RAM would not be enabled so without modification the machines would only have 32k available. They could be modded to access the 64K, but the 64k chips may be defective so the additional memory may not work properly. The only way to tell I think would be to open up the machine and take a look. If you did have 64k chips you'd need to perform the 64k mod to see if they worked (or remove them and test them off the board)
Thanks for very helpful video! I have the same boombox. Rubber bands deteriorated and became sticky mess. Going to order new ones. Hopefully it will work!
I have 2 Electrons, one of them had a couple keys stop working a few days after arriving. One solution I found it works great is to introduce a good amount of IPA to the inside of the key switch with a cotton tip, between the shaft and the enclosure of the key so that it soaks, and keep pressing repeatedly. It managed to clean the contacts and the key started working perfectly after that. After a while the IPA evaporates. The oxide or gunk that was on the contacts was displaced for good, it seems. Or until the next time... Saw this trick on another video about reparing one of these keyboards.
Just found your channel today from a comment on somebody else's channel lol! I really love what you do, seeing old tech get repaired is awesome!! I'm only 20 so seeing older stuff is always extremely fascinating especially with how simple yet complex things were made✨️
Thanks so much for your kind words. So glad you are enjoying the videos. There are more to come but I've had a few things going on recently. More content isn't far away. Thanks again for your feedback.
Thanks! I'm sorry it's been a while since my last video, but there is lots more yet to come. Hope to inspire some more soon. I really appreciate your kind words. Thank you
open tray is the exact same error I am getting with mine. Got the itch to Play my Mass Effect games and pulled the 360 out of storage collecting dust. Sometimes it reads, but today it doesn't. my Multimeter is MIA so I will be doing it the old fashioned way. mark a spot and track turns in a direction lol. it will work or it won't. I can play with it tonight and buy a disk reader if I fail.
Thanks Will, really appreciate that. I've been working on a pioneer machine at the moment but I'm not convinced that one won't beat me! Thanks for your kind words
I have the Coca Cola retheme of this from Franklin Mint, I think the circular lights thing is broken and I need to find a way to get into the machine- would this be essentially the same way of maintenance?
I'd imagine so, but I'm certainly not an expert in repairing things. Good luck with your repair, thanks for your comments and sorry for the delay in responding
I case it's useful info for anyone working on these... you don't need to jump any of the switches while testing. The only switch you need to operate is power and this is a logic-level toggle since the device seems to be always-on. You can just touch the switch briefly onto the pads in any position and it will toggle the device into any on-mode, or off. It will stay in that state that until you toggle a different state. No permanent jumpers required...
Thanks for sharing. I found my mother's old Realistic Concertmate 200. Seems to have the same issue. Alas, I don't have your patience or skill level to make the repair if mine has the same problem
If it helps I had no practical skills when I started doing this. Perhaps give it a go, you might suprise yourself! Thanks for your comments. Sorry its taken so long to respond
Great video! In passing, you referenced another tutorial regarding key pressing, which one is that? I am trying to repair my black Entex Space Invaders from childhood and need some advice regarding the buttons; the rubbery material underlying the 'left' and 'right' movement buttons has disintigrated, such that they cannot be pressed and pop back up--hope that makes sense.
Hi Thanks for your question. I know exactly what you mean. It's been a while and I can't remember exactly which vid I was talking about, but unfortunately it dealt mainly with dirty pads not disintegration of the rubber. I haven't seen that myself. I have no experience of it, but wonder if a cheap old keyboard might yield some rubbery bits you could use. I collect them from things I fail to repair and reuse if I can. I have seen buttons where the carbon has worn off the rubber pads and these can be fixed with copper tape or conductive paint, but I haven't tacked a total rubber failure. Thanks for your question. Sorry that I can't help
Hi Thanks for your comments. I figured air on the side of caution with regard to the CRTs, I am far from an expert in these repairs so please don't take anything as advice, TBH I found it all little scary. I agree if you are unsure, better to get someone who is. Unfortunately I don't do repairs for anyone else (I am not nearly good enough to do that) so can't help. But stop back if you know someone who can as I often get asked. Glad that you enjoyed the video. Cheers Roger
I have a pioneer LD player and all LDs stutter or have like a random hiccups when I play them. Nothing wrong with the discs. What can be the issue for this? Lens or something else??
Dude, THANK YOU for doing this. While my repairs aren't the same as yours, it was great to follow along with your logic. Got mine working, though it's not 100% just yet.
I am not an expert on these games, if it were mine I'd open it up and check to see if the getter is intact (black marks on VFD display). Then I'd check connections on the board and look for cracked tracks or burnt parts. Next id start testing diodes and transistors. Sorry I can't be more help
Hallo, iI think the 650 is very similar to the 740 D. My problem is the player doesn't play the discs. We had to repair the tray because it does not work propperly. Now this was fixed we recognized that the player does not read the discs. Any advice for me?
Hi thanks for your question. I am afraid I don't have any advice. I am far from an expert in these repairs. I have a similar problem on another machine I have, but haven't yet managed to fix it. One day if I do I'll post here and maybe it will be useful. If you find a solution let me know. In the meantime thanks so much for your question, hope that you enjoyed the video
Hello, the game was running on batteries, but I wanted to check if it works on the power supply and I gave it 7 or 9 volts, I don't remember exactly, and something burned, I watched most of the repair videos on YT. I replaced several elements, such as NEC transistor 2SD882, 2SC945 C945, but it still doesn't work, and I don't know what to do anymore - I don't know how to check if the integrated circuit hasn't burned, hmmm. When I turn it on from the battery, the 2SD822 transistor burns out. Or it was completely damaged, but I have a glimmer of hope that it wasn't ;/ ehhhh, I'm an electronics engineer :)
Hi thanks for your comments. I have often wondered what fries so many D882s and my suspicion is that incorrect DC power supplies is a possibility. The D882 does run hot when SO6 fails. SO6 is behind the bottom of the VFD display. Hope that helps.
I have seen those and wondered if they were the same. I think many of the grandstand games were really rebranded epoch. Thanks so much for your comments
I had one of these as a kid, a long time ago back in the late 70's I think I would have had it. My Dad opened it up and added a connector up the top so we could plug it into a little black square transformer, so we didn't need to use batteries anymore. This one looks just like it, and there is a big question mark in my head whether this actual one is the one I had as a kid, as how many other Dad's out there would have done that for their son??
What a heartwarming story. Perhaps this was "the one" sadly I have sold it on so we may never know and I cannot reunite you both. But I am very grateful for you sharing. Thanks so much.
Interesting. We looked at speak and spell for the kids but when we tried one in the shop, it wasnt very clearly spoken, more like a ventrilloquist (G and B confusion) so it seemed a bit pointless to buy one. I suppose newer versions may have been more clearly spoken. Im always amazed at how little is inside these special machines once the coloured plastic case is removed compared with how much they were sold for .
I remember seeing them as a kid and they were a LOT of money. My spelling was (and is) awful but I still couldn't persuade my parents to buy me one, even as an Xmas gift. I think the tech was very advanced for the time. I read that they used the worlds biggest commercial ROM chips and that the original recording had to processed significantly to accomodate the bit rate including removing some words that just didn't sound right. You are right about the plastic sizes. I've seen several different versions of this and the earlier versions had much larger PCBs in them. Anyway thanks so much for your comments. Glad you enjoyed the video
