I'm all about saving time and money, and there isn't a project I won't tackle. From home improvements to automotive repairs to that unexpected sewage problem, I'm the classic DIYer. I enjoy sharing the never-ending stream of tasks that need done around the homestead as well as the handyman projects I do for others. Welcome to the channel!
Great video but my new method was quick for anyone stuggling, I used my mig welder to fill the hole in the bearing also tacked the outer race in a couple spots and it punches out like butter from the opposite side because it also heats them up
@@shawnharris9821 not really. Read down in the comments and the replies below. Someone had a similar question and I answered it. Basically get the rear end of the mower off the ground and run the tires forward and backwards for a while. The oil will work itself in.
@@cubanchurchill I didn’t torque them.i just snugged them up good. They are really small so I would go really light, like 10-12 in-lbs. and use some removable Loctite if you’re worried about them loosening up.
@@therustichandyman As a Quality engineer can I say I would bet you 1k dollars you didn’t torque them properly because people either over torque or under torque when they say they snugged them up good. Please get a wheeler torque wrench for all your optics and you’ll never have an issue again 😊
@@brohatch depending on what you’re doing, you might find this video very helpful as well. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RiqEdu6cdx8.htmlsi=UaDyV_Al_tM-2RKZ I wasted several hours on a problem that could have been solved by a four minute video.
Yes. You use gear oil. Have your tiller on a level surface. There should be a threaded plug near the top of the gearbox on the side. Take the plug out, and fill the gearbox until oil starts to run out. Then put your plug back in.
Appreciate all your efforts. That looks like an Ester Williams type pool. I have a Johnny Weismuller pool which was the previous model. Been through all the prep work and hope to get the liner in tomorrow, only it will be 95 degrees out. I'm dreading it. Thanks for the video!
Good advice for rear tine tillers, i remember when my dad bought our Troybilt almost 50 years ago and the rock hard clay in our yard had him digging his heels in and dragging him across the yard which i though was hilarious but in reality he needed some advice like you just gave. He just couldn't believe how the old people on the ads were running them with "just one hand"😅 Eventually he did figure it out.
pro &con on filling , I would fill to the level 1/8 below the lip ,then leave the caps off & charge.Maintaining proper levels would be after 15 changes check and fill to levels. after charging.In this case the levels were so low that you really don't want to charge first & then add water... great video .If I might add dont wait till your batteries fall below 50% to recharge or run them down so the cart just about runs ,this indeed will shorten the battery life.
Thanks for the instructions. Just did this job after watching this video and another one where the guy took the whole bumper cover off. if you pop out both sides at the same time the bumper cover will fall forward giving you more room to work. Just make sure to put something under to support it so it doesn't buckle the cover. My assemblies came without bulbs. Just twist the sockets out and twist back into the new assembly. Make sure they are fully seated or your bulbs will shine the wrong way.
Sorry, I found this video to be like telling me how as he doesn't really show all the steps. I'm not some "car guy" and I was hoping to see a better, more thorough how to. Your wife has YOU to do it. I'm nearly 70, so an old lady living on a fixed income that has to deal with these issues myself. This video did NOTHING to help me. Just wanted you to be aware...
The rear caliper piston ( equipped with parking brake ) are not intended to be push back, but screw back. You may want to check if none of the rear caliper internal have been damaged by applying excessive force during your procedure. Note that there are special tools intended to simplify the retraction of the piston which are not that expensive. It will also be a good idea to: replace the piston seals ( rebuilt kit ) on the side which had corrosion and purged the brake fluid ( which look like overdue ). My two cents.
Hello, excellent video. When you can, could you make a video showing the electrical circuit, since I have some doubts. It happens that there is a switch on the forward and reverse selector that does not appear in the electrical diagram that the brand sends us and I need to know what function it performs and how it is connected.
It may be, but someone found it in a dumpster and it works great right now. I think they threw it away because they couldn’t figure out how to change the string.
So glad I found this video. When my tire blew it shredded the black plastic fabric. Purchased replacement that included tape, that came off within hours. Thinking of using the spray rhino truck liner. Any thoughts?
Stellar stuff man....and great timing! Just had ours out this past weekend and the more I ran it, I noticed oil leaking from the drive shaft area, and it just became more and more underpowered. Looks like I may be doing the exact same repairs you did...much appreciated! Thanks to your camerawoman for doing such a great job as well being able to clearly see what you were doing!
So, there's two open sides on the switch for water and insects to get in. Reversed screws. Battery clips for lighting connections and a switch on the battery cover top. Nope.
They usually break off somehow and that’s why you have to replace them. I’m sure you could just take a pliers to remove them. They will probably break off the tabs since they snap together.
@@therustichandymanthanks. On mine, the part the water line attaches to is what broke off, so the line is dangling and the nozzle is still there. I didn’t want to break something trying to get it out, but I saw where you can gently get a screwdriver under it and pop it out. So I was going to try pliers to pull it out first.
@@therustichandymanlol. Yeah, that’s why I was going to try pliers first. My hands aren’t steady enough to get a screwdriver under there without scratching it.
Thank you for this! We are in the midst of changing our liner. This helps so much! I especially like when you said, “All hands on deck!” Which we will be telling our five! Again, thank you!💙💙
If you don't mind me asking, where'd you buy your parts at? Mine is a 1971 Horse 1 model and hadn't ever had any maintenance done on it. So besides new seals and at least one new bearing I think it needs a new driveshaft. The worm gear looks like,e it's messed up on the back end. It really chewed up the brass worm gear on the tine shaft. Mine has one solid shaft for the tines. I noticed on later models they went to separate bolts one on each side. A new driveshaft isn't cheap. The best price I've found is $350. And I'm also having trouble finding the correct brass worm gear that goes on the tine shaft. I don't know if the tine bearings need to be replaced. They don't seem to have much slop in them. I've seen all kinds of worm gear kits for newer tillers but really none for Mine. I measured mine and they're just a little bit smaller than all the ones on Amazon or Ebay. I checked with one other place but they want over $200 for that same kit for mine. Just because it's older they figure they can charge 4 times what a newer one costs. Do you have a reasonable place where you buy your parts. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
@@larryarmstrong6973 it was years ago and I bought them through Troy built. My son owns the tiller now and he has done some work on it too. I will ask him where be gets his parts and let you know.
I had my hoses leak and replaced all 4. Mower doesnt seem to have much power. I have tried bleeding the air out of lines by running amd moving the arms back and forth. Is there anything else to do to get power again. Thanks
Have you ran it much since you’ve replaced the lines? It seems like it took a bit to get the oil worked back through the system last time I did this job.
@@therustichandyman we have had hoses break at different times. One hose broke fixed it ran good for a bit another hose leaks replace ran good for a cut or 2 and another hose leaked. Replaced the last 2 hoses and have had issues since. No power on the ground barely budges. Replaced the trans filter and added plenty of oil and same
@@racheldrennan9414 here’s something you can try. It sure sounds like you still have air in the system. Jack the back end of the mower up and support it on sturdy blocks. Then start the mower and move the steering leversiback and forth, 20 to 30 seconds at a time, for about 3 to 5 minutes. This allows the system to move the tires without much resistance. That should get the oil through the system.
This system is terrible. Fair warning, it is likely that at some point the little drain plug on the filter canister will get stuck anyway, and you won't be able to thread it off without loosening the whole canister. So, you'll just get the same mess that you did here anyway. Just give me the old hand twist filter back. This is tge opposite of innovation.
@@therustichandymanWord of caution here: Sometimes the bigger risk can be over tightening the lugs. I've snapped a stem off that way which really sucks!
