Figure It Audi is all about helping you repair, maintain and modify your Audi with detailed information gathered from thorough research and the 20/20 hindsight that can only come from doing the job 1st hand. Which is exactly where the name Figure It Audi came from: hands on experience that sometimes comes from figuring things out the hard way!
All video, images and copy as displayed on all Figure It Audi branded social channels are the exclusive property of Figure It Audi and Figure It Out Media for distribution. Content provided by Figure It Audi is not to be taken as professional advice and is not given by a professionally trained or licensed mechanic.
@@stevely5635 That's a tough comparison since the S4 has the Ohlins, so...not even close. I'll say that if comfort is on your list of must haves, I don't think these shocks and springs with these types of rates will ensure it's maintained. If you don't want to go low-low, a set of lowering springs and performance Bilstein shocks may be the better route. Or, get coilovers at triple the cost and you can have it all.
loved this video been trying to do this on my 1.8t a4 and i feel like im just lost with all the extra lines that there is ! any chance of doing one on a 1.8t
I'll be honest, the chance is 0%. But like I usually recommend to folks trying to understand how a certain system in their Audi is constructed, head to ilcats.ru and go find the vacuum system diagram for your car. Stare at it and your car long enough and I promise you'll figure it...audi.
I like ceratec in high mileage engines. As for the flush, I'm not looking for a shiny clean top end. I'm looking to thin out and flush away sludge deposits, especially in the sump and pickup. Maybe taking a high milage engine and doing compression tests and inspecting the pickup might tell a different story. I doesn't hurt to use some kind of oil system flush every few changes, although typically I'll take a hit and do two changes and the flush. IE, drop the old oil and filter. replace with cheap mineral oil and the cheapest filter. Use the flush product following instructions on container. Drop the cheap oil, remove the flush filter, install a new, good filter, refill with high quality synthetic oil. Why? OCD and wishful thinking.
For the oil cooler, you just used zip ties to penetrate both oil cooler and condenser then tight it, right? Or something else. What is the role of those screws to the zip ties?
Look up radiator or oil cooler fan ties - it's those. There's a hex head on it because they're also partially threaded so they can snug up to the plate they're tensioning against on the back side of the cooler.
Hi long time viewer and massive fan of the channel. I have a question when you did the auxiliary cooler delete and upgrade what did you do with the coolant regulator I desperately need one and eBay price's are excessive?
@@FigureItAudi I have a 2005 S4 B7 V8 4.2 BBK this part number is for AUDI A6 ALLROAD QUATTRO C5 Coolant Regulator 4B3121113A apparently should work but for over $300 Australian dollars is pretty expensive even second hand is nearly $200 not including shipping. I saw that you had one in the video still attached to the hoses when you did the upgrade.
Yup, the main principles are the same across all manufacturers. The differences are mainly in how the valve(s) at the back of the head are controlled (vacuum like in this video vs. electronically for "newer" cars). Before I understood how and when the SAI system works I was always curious as to why there was a "fan" noise when cars startup. Well, that's it. Thanks for watching.
@@FigureItAudi It's 100% vaccuum controlled on the 3l. And I have an issue with the intake actuator manifold when I accelerate, and I suspect SAI pump to be involved.
Yeah, you won't be able to find them or really any significant amount of aftermarket parts for the platform on a Canadian website. Local shops tend to be able to source most anything but you would have no real benefit ordering through them compared to doing it yourself. For those mounts you'll need to look at Apikol's site or order directly from Pure MS. 034 Motorsport also has a comparable set of motor mounts and you'll be able to order them from FCP Euro.
@@FigureItAudi ok I will look into that. I already have 034 both mounts. It has been 4 years and gets not good now so I would like to see if there is some other taste I can try
@@FigureItAudi By the way, I think the video didn't mention, but does this engine mount need custom work? For example, people say to 034 mount it needs to drill few mm to fit.
@@mesmaayan Still works well. Cleaner is expensive so I tend to run the ultrasonic for shorter periods, do a little hand scrubbing on extra dirty spots, and keep going in the machine to get results - opposed to upping the cleaning solution concentration.
If you have 150k miles and have never done it. Just fucking throw the car away. Those connectors absolutely do not come off and it will be more difficult to replace the connectors than the logistics of d-day.
Thanks for the test ! But if you use already dark oil for the flush its difficult to see change in color. I was surpised abouth the compression results. Thanks again !
Jk I believe the answer is yes because everything is routed the same as in your video. Since this is deleting the sai, this eliminates the process and codes associated with the with those airway ports known to get blocked with carbon right?
I had my rotas and pads changed. The slots on front rota curve into the forward motion of the car. The rears are not, they are opposite, they cut, or scoup, into the forward motion of the car. What I have noticed is that I get a LOT more brake dust on the rear alloys than the front. Which suggest its better to have the curved slot facing into the rotation of the wheel.
What will happen if i plug the ends of the 2 input ports and vent the 2 output ports of PCV hoses to atmosphere? This Disables the PCV and venting crankcase directly to atmosphere for a neutral crankcase pressure i did this to my S5 B8 v6 Supercharged U are 1 of the Better Teachers on youtube!
Your goal should actually be achieving NEGATIVE crankcase pressure, not "just" the reduction of positive pressure. Creating a small vacuum will actually help the engine run better and in some cases, make more power. I'm not 100% sure on what you mean by plugging the 2 input ports - but that doesn't sound right :)
All good BUT..............retighten the nut till all are done. When ready to replace the part, use a thread die cutter to define the threads. SS nuts with anti-seize.
Very good to know. I’ll be checking this out while my motor is out as well. Im running ECS Tuning motor mounts, which are not metal, so do you recommend any other places to mount them?
Excellent video! I have a 2010 Q5 3.2L and I am trying to tune out the SAI cycle from the ECM. I looked at the Jackal Motorsports website, but I do not see any tunes available for the Audi 3.2L. I am wondering if you have any suggestions as to how I can tune out the SAI cycle and who might be able to do it? Thank you. Joe
You can probably still contact Matt @ Jackal and ask if they're able to whip up a custom "tune" that is essentially just the SAI delete and nothing else.
@@FigureItAudi Okay thank you! I emailed and text messaged him. Hopefully he will get back to me. I will keep my fingers crossed that he will be able to help.
@@FigureItAudi Ai thats a pitty, the video is not about music, just a radio or stream played. Next time you take the engine out its easy'r to loosen the 2 axel bolts, remove the torsion bar, take all 4 lower suspension arms out at the subframe side only, take out the bolt of the suspension and flap the arms to the side. Lift the motor a little and put some piece of wood between the motor and subframe and remove the front motor mounts support one by one and set the long bolt back in the subframe. Loosen propshaft and exhaust, shift linkage. Loosen everything, coolant hoses, powersteering hose and line, remove connectors starter, altenator, sensor connectors and leave the harnas in the car, just loosen the connectors involved and mounts at the back (few nuts). Then lower the engine and transmission on the subframe about ten inches and pull it forwards, easy as that. A motor lift could help. www.hbm-machines.com/nl/p/hbm-350-kg-hoog-werktafel-heftafel?kb=ga_pm_18574139443_&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADvcfwLs4PL3c14iJG737RPMnIaLA&gclid=Cj0KCQjwlvW2BhDyARIsADnIe-LTozsaopKfRktuw77d6k-JCmiPa_Ua6sZlzT2jzGLC4qoVZjY9IKAaAkvXEALw_wcB Use it myself too, and air cushion ru-vid.comDLKQg_odSQ4?si=mgTom_KQQDHKVneM
@@FigureItAudi youtube removed my reply but look into another way to get the engine out, with subframe and axle's and lower it, leave the harnas also in the car, eventually you remove it from the engine too, lower it ten inches and pull it out forwards on a engine table lift.
I'm enjoying your use of the word "delete" for the CEL here. Just removing stuff isn't going to fix your problem...in fact it'll likely cause even more. You really just need to solve the root issue here by fixing/cleaning the valves (which may not be the valves themselves at all - it could easily just be a vacuum leak or issue with the solenoid controlling them) and then clearing the trouble codes to see if they return. The fact you're calling out the valves themselves makes me assume you have a tool to read codes.
Really nice tutorial, the only one that I know of that covers the clutch and the diff for this set up. I'm planning to do the same for my Audi Q5, but I'm unable to find the plugs for the clutch. Do you have an url or maybe a part code that I could use to buy those fill and drain plugs by chance? Thanks in advance!
The part numbers are in the last screen of the TSB images earlier in the video but to be certain, it's always a good idea to refer to ilcats.ru with your make and model specific information against the part diagrams, or just call Audi and get the parts person to double check what it calls for.
@@FigureItAudiI a 05 S4 4.2 V8 and have been looking to get some more power mainly getting, catless downpipes and a cat back with a jhm tune but not sure if it’s worth the money to only gain a little HP about how much HP do you think I will gain from stock? Love your vids by the way your videos are definitely making the process way easier
With my stage 1 mods and tune I'm currently around 340HP to the wheels which feels fairly lively. All the matters for the basic mods is air in + air out. High flow cats (I strongly recommend not going catless; cats won't stop you from making power and unless you've run no-cats before and are ok with the smell, just don't be that guy), and a full 2.5" exhaust. Intake improvements are a plus. Slap a stage 1 tune on there and you've got a great sounding, quick car. Anything beyond that is if you've got the money and truly want to see the most out of the N/A engine.
Hola, si, si el solenoide no permite que el aire regrese a la entrada del turbo cuando se aplica energía, la válvula ha fallado. El resultado aquí será la sobrealimentación del turbo. Gracias por mirar y espero que esto se traduzca bien.
I'm not sure - it would depend if there's a press cup the correct size for the seal on that engine. You'd have to do some research on your seal size and the offerings in the kit - or just read the repair manual of your car; it will state the OE tool, always.
@@SuperPartyHats Yeah it does - just make sure you're searching for parts by the year and production month to ensure you get either the filter or entire pump, depending on what exactly you're wanting to replace.
Just changed my fuel injectors on my 2012 Q5 2.0T Two injectors were stuck open and two failed completely. Had white smoke coming out the tailpipe and flashing engine light. The injectors fixed the issue and car drives nicely again. My question to you is will this tutorial apply to my Q5. I'm pretty sure that its a B8 engine and shares that with A4's. My mechanic (specialized in vintage 70's VW's but also services lots of newer Audi's and Beamers) said that you can't get to these fuel pumps because they are in the tank. I was thinking "That doesn't make sense" I thought maybe he wants it to fail so he can get more business. But according your video, clearly you can! I don't want to clog the injectors up again. I am the second owner, bought it 6 yrs ago but never replaced the fuel filter and I doubt the original owner did either. Still runs well, but needs lots of work.
Jump on ilcats.ru, select your car, find the fueling section and double check what pump (in case there's a VIN split) it takes. Grab the part number and search it up on FCP Euro or ECS Tuning and that's pretty much your answer on if the fuel pump is available...and if it's available...it can certainly be swapped. Really the only question is if you have pump that has a serviceable filter, or not. I've yet to see a fuel pump on a car that is totally inaccessible though. Keep digging.
