Very grateful for this video, I changed that filter thanks to you. The only problem I had was unscrewing this plastic nut with screwdriver and hammer - took about one hour, very annoying. Two things I would like to warn you guys. Be careful with gas leaking from the pump and filter while taking out because it damaged soundproofing material under my back seat - I suggest to secure it with cardboard or sth. Moreover, I disconnected my battery and opened all doors before I started to do anything. That's because I know the case when during this procedure gasoline concentration into cabin led to explosion when roof lights turned on - sounds crazy but it happened. Stay safe;)
So glad to find a Canadian based DIY tuner like yourself... More relatable, and knowing that I can source what you source is a great comfort. Like very much how you're much like us Saturday driveway DIYers, as in mechanically inclined, but not a certified mechanic, so you speak my language. I've been tinkering with my cars for decades, but just last year acquired a used Audi, so your expertise is invaluable.. It's a different beast!... I like your 'Dealer/DIYer' bit... look forward to more... like saving some money!... especially when I know I can do it, just like to see it done once to build confidence... Keep it up!.. Cheers!..
Your video really helped me to do the replacement on S5 B8. To unscrew the cover, I used the BGS 6767 tool which is really suitable. Thanks to this it I had no difficulty unscrewing.
Great DIY. One thing you forgot to mention or show, was to put back the fuse for the Fuel Pump. I'm sure that's logical to reinsert but then again, this is the internet.
I imagine for b9 the process and Location should be the same. Since for start I managed to change the motor oil and filter, I believe this “next step” in my diy small service adventure shouldnt be a problem. 😂 thank you for the vid!
This was close enough to follow for a USDM B8.5 2.0T allroad. I ground down a medium-sized flat head screwdriver to make the tip dull for the union nut; chisels and sharper screwdrivers would eventually break the ribs off the nut while loosening. I poured out the fuel in the pump basket as there was sediment in the bottom. After reassembly, priming, and starting, the sputtered and ran very rough for 20 seconds then smoothed out, presumably after the low-pressure line refilled. There might be a VCDS output to run the in-tank pump longer to purge air.
Nicely done. I haven't been able to justify getting the OEM tool for that nut. I had to look it up and it is quite the difference in price for the fuel filters. (B8 vs B8.5). The B6/B7 filters are much easier to replace. This filter set up reminds me of mid 2000's Subaru. The filter element was hard baked into the plastic fuel pump housing. To replace the filter it required a who new assembly. The work around was to remove your old assembly and gut the old filter and by pass it. Then you just added an inline filter (from Subaru go figure) under the hood prior to the fuel rail.
Thank you so very much, Small helpful hint for the neighborhood. Have a friend hammer one side while you do the other, that way it unfreezes much easier and quicker. That way you won’t be screaming in your stripped backseat wondering will I ever get this thing off.
Thank you for sharing this video. You helped a young female getting a visual of this work (not that I would do it). I have an Audi 2013 with 130k miles. Would you say its almost the same process to replace filter? .. My car has started showing symptoms and the mechanic said it was the fuel pump. It turns on fine, drives, fine, but when I go the store that second attempt to ignite the car struggles to turn on and then it starts smelling like gas. Eventually it turns on and it somewhat shakes a bit. it is so weird. I showed the mechanic videos so I can better explain myself. The mechanic recommends replacing the whole fuel pump assembly and not just the filter by the symptoms that my car displays. What are your thoughts?
Because of your year, you actually don't have much of a choice when it comes to replacing the filter; the filter for your assembly isn't sold on it's own. You can replace the entire assembly, or most of the assembly (so, may as well do it the whole thing). Yes, the general process of removing and re-installing the assembly would be the same. Otherwise, I can't offer an opinion on the symptoms vs. recommendation because I am only an enthusiast and this is one of those situations where you shouldn't trust the guy on youtube more than your mechanic :)
@@FigureItAudi good deal. Thank you so much. That helped clarify whether replacing just the filter or the whole thing (assembly) .. I don’t have a choice.
Just changed my fuel injectors on my 2012 Q5 2.0T Two injectors were stuck open and two failed completely. Had white smoke coming out the tailpipe and flashing engine light. The injectors fixed the issue and car drives nicely again. My question to you is will this tutorial apply to my Q5. I'm pretty sure that its a B8 engine and shares that with A4's. My mechanic (specialized in vintage 70's VW's but also services lots of newer Audi's and Beamers) said that you can't get to these fuel pumps because they are in the tank. I was thinking "That doesn't make sense" I thought maybe he wants it to fail so he can get more business. But according your video, clearly you can! I don't want to clog the injectors up again. I am the second owner, bought it 6 yrs ago but never replaced the fuel filter and I doubt the original owner did either. Still runs well, but needs lots of work.
Jump on ilcats.ru, select your car, find the fueling section and double check what pump (in case there's a VIN split) it takes. Grab the part number and search it up on FCP Euro or ECS Tuning and that's pretty much your answer on if the fuel pump is available...and if it's available...it can certainly be swapped. Really the only question is if you have pump that has a serviceable filter, or not. I've yet to see a fuel pump on a car that is totally inaccessible though. Keep digging.
Hi, I have a question when we went to take off the plug things from the fuel pump one of the connectors when you pushed down on it nothing happens so I was wondering what that is called and where I can get it? I have 2009 Audi a4 Quattro I watched your video for the past couple of days June 2024
Question? Does the A4 b8 have 2 fuel filters 1 in the tank like the one you did and 1 more on the outside under the car ? If yes where is it ? Thanks for the video I ordered all the parts to do the one you did 🙏🏼👍🏼
not only was the filter dirty, so was the liquid...totally a serviceable part!!!! there are other issues, like steam being detected, the engine cutting out and poor performance. My B8 S4 has done 104,000 miles and has its EPC light on; did you experience these issues? Great video tho; proper easy to do.
The answer is probably closer to gut instinct: If you have high quality fuel and even run injector cleaner through a tank a few times a year, it may not be worth doing this more than each timing service. If it wasn't for the noticeably bad fuel mileage in my car, I may have never committed to doing this project.
Yes, for both the B8 and B8.5, if you buy the entire fuel pump unit, it'll also have a filter in it. That's a "reasonable" thing to do for the pre-face lift but as many of the comments have called out, the B8.5 filter can't be purchased separately from the pump and that entire unit is much more expensive than the B8 as shown in this video.
Definitely, if it needs to be (or if you don't mind splashing some cash for future proactivity). The little controller is back there too and can sometimes be a problem. Diagnosis first is key.
@@SuperPartyHats Yeah it does - just make sure you're searching for parts by the year and production month to ensure you get either the filter or entire pump, depending on what exactly you're wanting to replace.
great tutorial. i have the impression that all german cars are over-engineered. i would gladly pay an extra grand for a car that a diy-er can maintain. neither filters or the fluids they filter are "life time". all the car makers want to do is have the car not fail during the warranty period. can i assume the exact same procedure would apply to a 2010 a5 b8?
I just found your Channel on a search and I just bought a 2009 Audi A4 2.0 T Quattro. Previous owner did a lot of the maintenance but is there anything that you think I should look at right away. He did the valve decarbonization my concern is how can I extend the life of my Turbo
Hey Scott - Are you aware of the oil consumption problems in the B8's? That is by far the largest issue with early model 2.0 A4s, the ultimate solution being to replace the piston rings (which Audi warranties/ied, at one point in time). I would search for the paperwork to determine if the car received either stage 1 or 2 of the consumption tests. In a quick search, you'll also see the issues with the cam bridge and generally how important timing is. And the PCV valves suck. Oil changes are critical as well.
Realmente não há idade ou quilometragem para basear a decisão. Eu só faria isso se você já estiver trabalhando no tanque de combustível ou se notar um consumo de combustível excepcionalmente baixo ou se o motor não parecer estar funcionando bem e nenhum outro problema puder ser encontrado com ar + ignição.
I ran in to a little problem after doing this. My fuel meter slowly rises after I put in a full tank and it didn't rise all the way up, just to maybe 640ish on the digital. Then I saw that the "needle" on the gas meter sunk really fast. Any ideas?
I wonder if the float on the bottom of the assembly (that reads fuel level) got caught up on something and it's not moving freely. It's almost important to make sure the little black ground wire is reconnected firmly so maintain a good signal. That said, I'm not sure if that wire the the level inputs are related.
Brown stuff: not for certain. Given the age of the car, who knows if there's rust in the tank or any of the lines, what grades of fuel have been used in the past, how long a tank of gas has sat and potentially rot before using, etc. It does prove that the filters work...but not sure on the causes. My opinion on the service intervals is that if you drive your car a lot, (let's say 10-15k kms/year), I would do it every 3 years. On a car like my S4 that only does a few thousand kms per season and gets fuel stabilizer when it's sitting - far less so.
I had a 1998 saturn and the fuel filter was below the car where u would fill up your gas. Its too bad they don't this anymore. I didn't think about my fuel filter for my b8.5 s5. I just hit 50k miles. I wonder if it needs to be changed.
Well, think about this now for a minute... Audi calls this a "lifetime" filter, like most other manufacturers are doing these days. There are cars with 6+ times your mileage still running on the factory filter. Somewhere right in between to replace it, would be just fine. I would say 100k km, maybe ideal, but probably even fine to leave it until 200kkm. You're eventually just going to get to the point where there's junk in the bottle of your fuel tank, too large to go through the filter obviously, the actual filter eventually cakes up enough that it's clogged to some extent, and effecting driveability of the car.
Audi calls a lot of things lifetime and that is totally wrong. Lifetime in their eyes is your warranty period. For example the ZF8 transmission needs to have the fluid changed around 60k to 80k. Audi also calls this lifetime fluid. ZF themselves have come out and said this information is not correct and not changing the fluid can cause damage to your transmission. This logic applies to a lot of parts and I suggest you perform regular maintenance if you want the car to last.
I did this filter switch and drove a few miles, my engine will not turn over now. It was driving fine and then stopped when I got to the first destination.
There's only a high pressure switch up on the high pressure fuel pump (or near it) and the only other thing near the fuel pump is the control module that's just rearward of the pump on the passenger side.
The high pressure fuel pump has a pressure sensor on the fuel rail. My b8 does read low side fuel pressure and I believe it's the sensor on top of the high pressure fuel pump
That extra nipple in top the fuel pump is a breather??? I replaced my fuel pump and went to the gas station to fill up and fuel was spilling out from underneath. Thought I pinched my fuel pump seal but that wasn't the case. It was actually coming out from that nipple. I plugged it with the cap that came with. Do you know why fuel was coming out from that nipple??? Thanks, in advance!
This is for the auxiliary heater which is mostly in European cars. Some of them have that extra port blocked off underneath the top of the pump but some of the ones you buy do not. There is a piece to cap it off. 06H906051K this part number is for B8.5 A4 and A5, it may also be compatible with other models. Verify compatibility on your vehicle before purchase.
Steve... German Parts has a big sale, so may order the filter and work this procedure, but they only supply the filter, not those ancillary parts... Do you source those from a dealer?... Are you relying on the dealer to supply correct parts, based on model year?... Thanks
Nope, this is one of those cost prohibitive jobs when sourcing from the dealer - in my experience. I bought every part shown in this video from @fcpeuro. I do my own research first using sites like www.ilcats.ru/audi/ to confirm my part numbers.
Not sure if you’ll see this but after performing this job I got a code P025C “Fuel Pump Module Control Circuit Low” again shot in the dark that this actually gets seen but was hoping for a response. Could you help?
The fuel pump control module is actually just inches away from the pump itself. It's a little box connected to the wires you would have unplugged from the top of the pump, and it's held to the chassis by the 2 screws you would have not even glanced at, towards the rear of the car. It's possible one of the connections to, from, or in the pump just isn't firm. That little clip on the pump that holds the ground is really finicky, too. Gotta make sure it's on there. If you disconnected your battery during the job, that could easily be it too if the fault was registered as soon as you started the car for the first time. I'd clear the code and see if it comes back, and if it does, recheck your work.
@@FigureItAudi Wow thank you so much for your help, I’ll check into it after I get off work today, but seriously thank you for responding especially on almost a year old video!!
Can't say for certain but I'd just make sure everything is reconnected properly, including the fuse, if you pulled it. If it's the same pump body as the A4, the grounding wire is a bit finicky to reattach firmly. When you key the ignition, do you hear the pump prime for a few seconds?
@@FigureItAudi yea i even took that hose off on top and put something to catch gas and cycled key, n it shot out, so pump is pumping... did u have 2 prime alot? wonder if i have 2 purge line of air....
