A wooden box is made and a demonstration is made: mitre joint by hand, dovetailed mitre joint by hand, sharpening, shooting board, stock positioning, tool selection and accuracy in using tools.
tudo muito artesanal da trabalho mais vale a pena tudo nota 10 queria saber de uma coisa onde você comprou aquela serrinha de mâo aquela vermelha pode falar obrigado
The way you took dove tail saw off shelve showed me you are having fun to go along with your creativity and knowledge. Never saw overhung dovetails. Very cool.
Nice 👍 what type of sharpening stones are Angle guide. Are you using. I have used Japanese water stones for about forty years, but your system looks less messy. The small corner. clamp is nice too. I make custom Cigar. Humidors for the cigar aficionados.
Thanks 🙌 Japanese diamond stones from Atoma. The best I’ve ever used. Switched to diamond stones because of the mess water stones make like you said. One of the best choices I made for the shop. Nice, I want to try to make a humidor for myself in the future. I heard Spanish cedar is the best wood for it?
@@HarisWoodshop I use Spanish cedar, I think it’s a bit better than American cedar. Is the angle guide for the plane iron from the same company. I have an old Stanley one and it’s got a crack in it. Have a great day
@@dusty7264the angle guide is from banggood: Mohoo Sharpening System. Don’t think less because it’s a Chinese brand. It is of very high quality and extremely well machined. Many commercial Western brands should take notes.
Beautiful video. It was a pleasure to watch. I’m mostly a power tool woodworker but appreciate the skill that goes into handtool work. Question: how do you like the Furniture Butter long term? How does it hold up to use
Thank you, much appreciated! It’s actually the first time using Furniture Butter. It looks pretty good using it almost a month, but can’t say anything long term..
Glad to discover this.Some interesting & slightly different methods of work here and always great to see such lovely video production standards.These days any woodworking video that shows someone ACTUALLY making is a bonus!
The danger with the lamination is that it will tear apart over time with hammering. Just a slight bit of a design change could flip it so that the laminations are not the hammer face.
I’ve never seen cured wood glue laminations tear or come loose. Using this mallet daily for 9 months now. Still as strong as the first day. Thank you for your comment.
@@HarisWoodshop Lamination will separate with hammering when the lamination is the hammering surface same applies to end grain that will hollow out and split. It is just mechanical forces and glue bonds. By just small design tweak you could make it so the long grain side is the hammering face.
Nice small bench. The time taken for building with hand tools is worth the effort. Takes function to the level of art. I'm reminded by your video of how people made heirloom quality furniture before electricity and power tools that endured the test of time. Nice relaxing and satisfying video.
In so much of woodworking, we try to make the seams look seamless. The way your dovetails are, you are "celebrating" the seams. An approach I have never tried. It's cool.
I’ve been woodworking for well over 45 years. When I started, glues weren’t great (but certainly better than 200 years ago) and it’s was common to use a mechanical joint such as dovetails. Now, dovetails - or any mechanical joint not also using glues are not needed. My problem with them is that, almost invariably, they are an ego statement by the maker to other makers to say “look, I can hand build dovetails”. I have never known a non-woodworking member of the public demand dovetails - in fact, I had one who asked what were those funny arrow-type bits on the drawer. And she was right; the piece was a simple (hopefully) elegant design and I introduced a non-simple joint because I could. Just because you can, doesn’t mean you should Having said all that, dovetails but particularly houndstooth, can add to the design. And I think this stool proves that. If you like cutting dovetails, then carry on. It is a good way to improve hand/eye/tool skills that you will need for other elements - but dovetails do not a woodworker make. As you get older and older, you need more machinery to relieve you of the initial hard work. So, I now use machines to rough dimension and then hand tools to finesse. You would be very lucky to get to the age of 70 and still be able to spend hours using hand tools only.
Dovetails are not needed, correct. I do it anyway, because woodworking is my hobby. Time is not money for me. I don’t sell my pieces. I keep them or give it away. This little bench is for my 7 year old son. Does he understand the nice esthetics of dovetails? Ofcourse not. I do it for myself. I find handtool work relaxing and satisfying. I don’t think it has to do anything with age, but the purpose why one does woodworking. Thank you for your comment.
@@HarisWoodshop thank you for the reply. As I said, if you like cutting them, then it’s a personal choice. I guess the aim of my original comment was to newcomers who (in my experience) seem to regard hand cut dovetails as almost the first essential joint to be mastered. Whilst the process does improve some basic skills, I tried to teach a son (now a professional cabinet maker) that design (including timber choices) is the first element and then you think of how you might make that. If I’m building something in a Greene and Greene style, I will use extended box joints and square pegs etc; if I’m building something that CFA Voysey might have designed, then dovetails might be appropriate; if it’s a modern design, then I suggest dovetails would be inappropriate. Again, all design led. The worst thing for me is machine cut dovetails as they manage to combine ugliness and unnecessary! I think everyone would agree that the most important thong is to get people making. Making anything. If it’s a bird house screwed together, the. Great; it’s a start and if you enjoy the process, then carry on and develop your skills.
@@theofarmmanager267 Dovetail are the strongest and most secure joint in terms of directional force. A glue joint only such as a butt joint has to rely upon the chemical bond and that simply would not be reliable. So what joint would you suggest using?
@@Art-is-craft a dovetail is a strong mechanical joint and doubly so when combined with a chemical element. But is all that strength necessary? I know of drawers that are in daily use that I made 40 or possibly 35 years ago; they have dovetail joints - no glue and are still tight. Then I know of other drawers and chests, again in daily use, that have lock joints with glue and are, again, in perfect condition. To take an extreme, build welded steel framed drawers for ultimate strength. Of course. That element of strength is probably never needed practically and I suggest that the same principle applies to dovetail joints. So often, but not always, it is this ego joint. You asked about alternatives. The lock joint is very good when glued if you don’t want end grain showing, the mitre lock joint. The simple down joint is always reliable and discreet. On some pieces, I like to use metal rod inserted parallel to the drawer fronts. In brass or copper, they have a look and offer tremendous strength when used with the appropriate glue. As I said originally, I like the aesthetic of the extended dovetails on the piece being made. I also like the aesthetic of houndstooth joints when appropriate.
@@theofarmmanager267 A bench would be subjected to directional forces that the dovetail can absorb. Other methods could be used but they would not be easier or better.
