Canada's most diverse music parts supplier. We are always expanding our selection by adding new products. We provide parts for building or repairing amps, cabs, cases, pedals, pedalboards, guitars, and basses.
Why not just use the audio out jack. I run mine into a TurtleBox Loud box and it is every bit as loud as any Street Cube with way clearer sound at both distance and.close up.
The audio jack sends audio only. It requires a powered speaker. This mod allows you go use the amp's internal power amp to power a separate/larger speaker (like a traditional guitar cab).
Absolutely love mine. Enough volume to match your un amplified voice for busking. It is also small enough to walk and play. It also works great as a preamp for a louder speaker Only design flaw. Placement of powder switch means it is way too easy to turn the amp on while you're putting it away That means dead batteries when you go to use it again .Add something to shield switch from accidental power ons. Huge success in a micro amp; excellent clear tone. A friend, way better than me, couldn't help from sitting there envying the tone of this little amp against his Street Cube amp. Yeah, volume is stronger on bigger, more expensive amps. But, that is not the point of an amp lighter and smaller than your kid's lunch box.
I 'm not buying that the Neutrik connectors are better than the Switchcraft. A 90 ° angle jerk on the cable will damage most connectors. The threaded part and the 1/4" sleeve on the Switchcraft are one piece. This is where most connectors will fail. About twenty years or more ago. Finding cables of the quality you made was pretty easy. Now it's mostly junk. I thought about buying a regular cable and replacing the terminals with the Switchcraft 280(looks like that's what you're using. If not let us know which one.), but I think I'm going to do what you did. Thanks for the video.
Listening on headphones. Heard exactly what the Next Gen folks heard. Cap 1- harmonically richest, least harsh. Cap 2 - harshest. Cap 3 - Less harsh than Cap 2 but still not as good as Cap 1. I was hoping the one I liked would be the least expensive, but no such luck. Thanks for doing this.
Ehh! That is a cheap Chinese paper cone 4” 8ohms speaker all the guitar RU-vidrs were praising like paid employees! What a cashgrab! Thanks for showing the inside btw!
To be clear, what you are hearing as a "pop" is actually just the signal being cut harshly (squarely). If you analyze the waveform, it isn't an unwanted/unexpected spike. That is just what it sounds like when a signal is cut so drastically/instantaneously. It is absolutely unavoidable when using a killswitch. It will only be audible when the signal gain is too low, leaving your sound in "clean" territory. Imagine a waveform, the wave moving up and down represents the speaker moving back and forth. Instantly cutting the signal like that means the speaker has to return to its neutral point nearly instantly. That is what makes the "popping" sound. You can hear it in the examples throughout the video. 2:07 = Very "poppy" (clean guitar sound). 2:16 = The "pop" is only audible as the signal decays and cleans up. At the end of the video, same thing. Only when the note is decaying and the signal is getting too low for the overdrive clipping does it become obvious. That's why they are really only used with higher gain overdriven sounds. Some people wire in a 2.2M resistor to help reduce the popping, but it won't eliminate it. There is a technique to using the switch. Lots of gain and lots of signal means no popping. You can't just let notes ring out while using the switch. You need to make sure there is enough signal. Hope that helps!
@@NextGenGuitars Alright, thank you for taking the time to write that one out for me. I wonder if there's a better way to do it. 🤔 I have a square wave tremolo that's really choppy but doesn't cause speaker pop, I wonder if there's a way to emulate that with a circuit in that guitar.
hey, I don't understand English, can you tell me how it works? because I don't understand a bit, did I understand correctly that if I solder the killswich directly into the socket, it would work? how it's working? If I solder it in series with the plus going, will it have the same effect?
Awesome...this is my favorite Amp of all if I could get a big Amp to sound like it. I wouldn't use anything else. Bad to the bone.. the 50 or 100 watt boss amps don't sound half as good as the mini to my ears. Thank you killer video...thanks for sharing...2thumbs up..
i have 12 inch 8ohm speaker and am looking into making a 2/12, there's no better or worse in terms of ohms right? i should just get another speaker to match the one i have and have the 4ohm 2/12 cab and two 1/12 if my friend come by and plug his head in to jam with me. instead of selling mine and getting two 16ohm to make it like yours. *i know if i plug in the second 8ohm i should change my head to an 8ohm as well in this scenario, talking just about ohms. i haven't gotten a head yet, i can look into it with that in mind when time comes also i feel like it's way simpler than when put into words lol
@@NextGenGuitars got it. thank you. one last question. do i have to make it stereo for this splitting function to work? i don't care for stereo i just wanted to have a 2/12 cab with the ability to have it working two 1/12. would it work the same way?
@@halfend8199 If you have the ability to isolate each speaker separately, that is by definition turning it into a stereo cab. So, I'm not really sure I understand your question.
@@halfend8199 No guitar amp outputs to a stereo/TRS speaker cable. The cables should always be mono/TS, and the jacks/wiring in this video example require only mono/TS plugs to be used for it to work properly. Any other type of plug would cause the system to route the signal incorrectly. So, yes, mono cables only.
No. 2x 8-ohm speakers makes 16 ohms in series, or 4 ohms parallel. There is no way to use 2x 8-ohm speakers, and end up with 8-ohms (unless you just didn't use both speakers together at all, in which case you'd just have one jack for each speaker, and they wouldn't be connected at all). We no longer sell the 14B jack, and would recommend the Cliff jacks as an alternative for complex wiring schemes.
@@pitonestraordinario The sleeve terminal of the jack is the ground. I asked how you wired it because if you are inadvertently disconnecting the battery power each time you hit the switch, that would cause an extremely loud pop every time. Some people connect the wrong leads (avoid the "ring", and/or anything connected to the battery).
Is there an easy way to do exact this except created 2 seperate 2x12's in a 4 speaker cab. All 12 ohm speakers like in the video. Stereo them together as seperate channels was my first thoughts but I'm not sure. Basically I'd like to either plug one jack in for 'half the amp' and 2 for the whole amp in stereo. Maybe a pair of jacks with a switch can work. Just haven't been able to find this specific thing. Thanks for taking the time to read this post. Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions.
You just do the exact same thing as in the video, but with pairs of 8-ohm speakers in series instead of single 16-ohm speakers. Same result... Either jack used individually would be all 4 speakers, for an 8-ohm load. Both jacks used at the same time would separate the two jacks, each having their own 16-ohm load.
@@TheJwarnock You would copy the wiring diagram in this video exactly. The only difference is that instead of 2x 16-ohm speakers, you would have 2x series pairs of 8-ohm speakers. The top speaker in the diagram would be replaced by a pair of 8-ohm speakers wired in series. The bottom speaker in the diagram would be replaced by another pair of 8-ohm speakers wired in series. You end up with two 16-ohm loads, thus the same results as the video.
That's always a battle of compromises... A larger gauge main conductor with no shielding allows for the greatest fidelity, at the expense of a high noise floor and more interference from the lack of shielding. The more shielding you add to reduce the noise floor and decrease interference, the thicker/heavier and more cumbersome the cable becomes, and the greater the capacitance of the cable. Braided shielding is stronger and more durable, but provides a little less shielding (for the same amount of wire used) and increases capacitance more. Spiral shielding improves on those weaknesses, but sacrifices a bit of durability. Increased capacitance leads to greater high frequency loss over long cable lengths. For these reasons (among many others, this is just a short discussion), there is no "perfect" cable. There is just the "right" cable for your needs. Most guitar cable is around 40-50pF/foot with around 90-95% shielding, which is great for most guitar players. If you've got long cable runs and a complex pedalboard, you may want lower capacitance cable to retain more high end across the total cable length. You could also just use a buffer, but that opens up another long discussion. Suffice to say, it's complicated. lol Lot's of choices, and no "right" answers. The fact is, most industry guitar cable is just fine. The difference that separates them is the quality of the connectors and solder joints.
That's why it's always best to find local sources. Or, bundle larger orders to get the best value out of the shipping costs. If shipping costs $15, that's because it costs $15. That's not "theft". Get mad at shipping carriers/couriers if you think it's too expensive. Don't throw around crude/inaccurate accusations of "theft". Point your disappointment in the right direction. All the best! 👍
Can you please clarify which direction the clif jack is facing in your diagram? Assuming the female jack is on the left is that a top down view? As in solder tabs on the bottom? Thanks.
Very difficult to judge difference because of the guitar riff chosen. I like to hear tests of distinct clean tones and then separate OD test. So by listening to the first 2 seconds of the 3 sample caps; I concluded the Mallory's with the Generics a close 2nd and the Sozos a clear third.
For my money, cheapest cap wins. In a controlled setting, there might be a minuscule difference, but not a "this is objectively better" kind of difference. It would be unnoticeable to me (and probably most people) in live setting. And, as you eluded to, whatever small difference there is, it's entirely subjective which is "better".
Good video. Just a head of warning you shouldn't use your hands when using a unibit you should clamp the box down or use vise grips. Take it from a guy who is use unibits for 20 years. Tearing your hand up it's not fun. Lots of blood.. Haha
Yes. If you wire the output from the pickup (or pickup selector) straight to the jack (bypassing or removing the volume pot), you will not be able to turn down your volume.
It is not just about tone. You also want to consider which will last the longest and without noticeable tone change as it ages. And the amino acid L-Lysine when taken daily in sufficient quantity, will keep all viruses from replicating in the human body. And I own a 2000- American Series Stratocaster ... just put a Klein '63 in the neck, a Klein '56 in the middle, and a Bare Knuckles Mule at the bridge. They all three sound great; but even pickups will age and sweeten, as I believe tone and filter capacitors and even speaker coils, will do as they age. 2024, BTW, marks my 63rd year of playing guitar ...
Mark was so influential on my early dive into pedal and synth DIY, when I was around 14 he was so generous with his time and knowledge on various forums especially DIY Stompboxes which had a very special vibe back then where people really valued building their own take and DIY community developed projects rather than just straight clones of classic circuits. It was quite independently minded and not just chasing trends and that stood out, I belive Mark was one of the main drivers of the approach.
1:31 Just to confirm... with both jacks used, the speakers are disconnected from each other? Meaning I can go stereo from an effects pedal/splitter, OR i can plug in two amps (one to each jack/speaker)? I liked the two amp ideas, but I didn't want to blow anything up 😬 Thanks!
That is correct. If using both jacks at the same time, each individual speaker has its own signal path completely separate from the other (and the other jack). So, you could run two amps into the same cab. Each amp would only be connected to one speaker, separately from each other.
There could be lots of reasons why that happens. Oxidized soldering tip, dry or oxidized parts, not enough heat, not enough heat transfer, and/or poor technique. If solder isn't sticking, first thing to check is the temperatures and condition of the iron. Is it getting to and maintaining at least 350C (~650F)? Is the tip clean and tinned? Are the parts being soldered clean and free of oxidation? Once those are confirmed, you can troubleshoot the technique. The parts need to be hot enough for the solder to flow onto them and stick, which means focusing on heating the parts you want the solder to bond to. Using flux helps to clean the parts being joined and increases solder flow. Lots to investigate and diagnose. Best of luck to you!
@@NextGenGuitars it must either be a temperature thing or an experience thing. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong because I will melt the solder onto the little metal tongue pieces where the wires make contact and it just won't stick at all, I'm wondering if there's a specific type of wire I'm supposed to use for this that's rated for steel and I don't have it, my soldering iron and solder itself are used and do not have any packaging so I'm not sure how to check but I get a small dab of solder exactly where the video says its supposed to go and the way I do the process looks exactly like the way you do it but where yours sticks mine just falls off and I'm left with random little chuncks of loose solder. Not sure what the problem is exactly but Ive cleaned everything and made dozens of attempts and at this point I've made no progress at all. Even when I try to get the solder to form around the hole so it's kind of pinched to the metal tongue looking piece, it still miraculously just slides right off and I am at a complete loss
@@andacondasqueeze159 Sounds like you're not getting enough heat transfer onto the lugs you want the solder to bond to. It could be your iron doesn't get hot enough, or maintain heat well enough. Adding tinning flux to the areas you want the solder to bond to might help. Using eutectic solder (if you're in a country that allows for leaded solder) would also help. But, if it doesn't, you really need to look at getting a new soldering iron. Preferably something with a digitally controlled temperature setting.
