I'm a 50 Plus Dad, But I hope there is something here for everyone, I share DIY projects, life hacks, and really cool tips. I don't plan my videos too much; I just record what I've been up to as life throws up its challenges.
I'm all about bringing out the creator in you. I share easy projects, cool tricks, and lots of tips that everyone can enjoy. I believe everyone can DIY and make amazing things happen.
Come along with me, we'll fix stuff, create new things, and have a blast because that's where all the magic happens.
My goal is to share what I know and learn from you. Teamwork is awesome, and discovering new things is key. Whether you're already a DIY pro or just starting, let's inspire each other, give a thumbs up, and most importantly, have a ton of fun together!
Here's to creating, learning, and having a whole lot of fun!
If you know the pitch between the condenser fins you can get a cheap radiator fin comb to straighten them out. I'm running a second hand Bosch self cleaning heat pump dryer. It's about 10 years old. Just replaced the tumbler belt and the bearing. Still somehow works and dries like a champ. It did cost me 80 quid though.
I don't use it but I think you need a Aux input lead and when you plug it in you can select the Aux input and listen to whatever you have plugged into it via a pair of RCA connectors (red and white stereo leads)
The lead goes in the rear of the unit and you then run the other end to somewhere accessible like the glove box or centre console so you can plug you aux device in. Search Google images for vw mfd-1 rear, it will show the plug at the back, its a round multipin connector.
Its how to move a hole, thats drilled slightly in the wrong place. If you try and re drill it the hole will be too big and no use so you fill the hole with wood so you can re drill it.
Thanks for making this video. Really helpful to see what's going on within the connector shells - particularly the orientation of the locking tabs. Cheers.
Hi dear friend! Which one do you think is less troublesome? Self cleaning condencer or manuel ? I was going to buy Bosch Serie 8, but I think I should buy Serie 6 to avoid buying a self-cleaning model? what do you say?
The manual is probably easier to clean although i have seen that the new self cleaning machine has an access panel and another lint trap which will make it a lot better.
Really helped me out. Great video. One point to make is that the back of my hub had a cover on it “protecting” the reluctor ring so had to level that off to then punch the remains of the sensor through. Thanks!
Just did mine - just used a spray bottle with water & dishwashing - then flushed with water - voila ! Foamed up a bit which set off the water full alarm. Got a wet towel and put that in the drum. Problem solved and thats without a condensor cover - just put the front fascia back on - works a dream now.
Thanks, you can do both but you dont really need to, i did but i was was on auto pilot, you only filler on the side that you are going to see and or paint.
Great video. Thanks for sharing as couldn't find any good info anywhere. Do you do anything to protect the disconnected plug (on the car) from moisture ingress? Ie plug it with a blanked female plug or something?
Very good explanation but could you give more information about the male side of the antom contractor? I'm trying to depin one and the red plastic lock won't disengage. It moves about a mm or two but not enough to release the pin.
Have you seen this other video I posted it might help ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dOA-lhNWeGk.html I tried to show how to remove it with different tools.
Not quite sure why you need the wedges. I have been a Carpenter and builder for nearly 43 years and framed an awful lot of awkward angle walls and door openings. As yet never cut a wedge piece to go around the angle. It won't hurt anything, but a lot of work really for what gain.
Started that job yesterday night. Thanks for your video which might help me going on today. Removed the Diesel-Filter completly but I cannot remove the lower screw. Hopefully your idea with extensions etc. will help tonight.
Bottom starter bolt is really tight but once you crack it loose you'll be able to take it out with your fingers. Just make sure you use a hex sockets rather than multi point and that its fully seated, you really don't want to round it off. Going back together is easy and mine turns over so much faster than the old one did before it failed.😀
@@50plusdad-uk My T5 is back to life! Thanks to your video. Losen that lower bolt was a pain in the… But it worked. Putting things back together was easy compared to the rest.
I didn't thats why I have 2 of the long core drills, you can see on the rusty one how worn the shoulder near the teeth is. My problem with drilling hard stone is I always get impatient and push too hard.🙄
The problem with all of these connectors used in the auto industry is there is no standard. Basically they should all be similar and they are not. Every manufacturer has their way of manufacturing connectors. The locking mechanisms suck! and the connectors are all plastic and become brittle and break very easily over time when disturbed. This video is easy because the connectors are new and not in the vehicle. This all becomes way more complicated when there is no room to work.
Utilicé un conector jack de 3,5 mm, el único que tenía estaba moldeado al cable, por eso lo corté y lo uní, pero sería más fácil conseguir un conector jack nuevo y simplemente soldarlo directamente.
I used a 3.5mm jack plug, the only one I had was moulded to the cable which is why i cut and joined it but it would be easier to get a new jack plug and just solder straight to it.
@50plusdad-uk hi, another question, someone has said that the yellow waterproof bung should be crimped on the wire. Is this right, or the way you've done it. I'm just asking. Thanks.
You can do both ways, I don't grimp the bung so I get a better crimp and it clicks in the connector easier. Sometimes when you crimp the bung it can move so you still have to poke it down. The bung won't fall out if not crimped, have a try both ways and see which works best for you 👍
The filters aren't clean as you say, one , the outer is, you can see through it, but the inner one, has like microfibers cloging the mesh, easy to check if you know you need to be able to read any text through it, like the outer. As for the selfcleaning condenser, more ofren is the rear heat exchanger cloged.,
I did another video using a garden sprayer, this is really good at getting deeper between the fins. I think next time it clogs I'll try back flushing from the pump side to try and push the fluff back out the way it came.👍
Unfortunately this does not help because its the heating element which is FULLY clogged and you could only access it with a FULL disassembly (must remove condenser, heater and pump as a whole) ! The heating element fins has less spaces.
