I had the same problem to what I did was I went to the hardware store and I got small rubber rings. And put it on and then I screwed the hex back over it now there's no more play. I Did that a year ago and it's still going good.
nice vid liked and subscribed bunch of ppl race in a parking lot with sentons and infractions and 1/10 scale and i could use some help getting my senton set up for fast cornering
Being an auto mechanic i find myself applying the same diagnosis to my rc vehicles. My senton had up and down play and come to find out it was the bearings, same symptomas a full sized vehicle. Just food for thought.
All of the linkage is as tight as it can be without stripping the parts out. Part of the problem with the linkage in general is all the ball ends are plastic. Which end up wearing. However, I did an all new aluminum steering bellcrank and ball ends last summer and have maybe 10 packs through it since, so the wear is minimal. I'm thinking about grabbing some aftermarket aluminum hub carriers and bearings to help tighten things up as well. There will always be some play in these things but yeah that slop out at the wheel itself is no bueno! Maybe I'll talk to a friend about machining some custom shaft ends and mess with changing the bearing sizes inside the hub carriers. Hmm...
Hey Luke, not that I know of, however I have only done the mod with the Traxxas parts. Funny you comment as I am about to film and upload a "2 years later" update on the mod. Hang tight a few days for that before deciding if you want to do it or not. It still works and hasn't broke, but there is some wear and tear. Which I'll show in the video.
Stock or after this upgrade? Does the steering servo make any noise? Check your steering rate adjustment (knob on transmitter), or possibly something came loose up front like the servo horn.
servo doesn't true unless u turn on ur transmitter with the car. turning on the car by itself the servo will just sit in whatever position it is in. but im sure a couple of love taps will straighten it all out.
Good point. I didn't even think about it. I physically centered it before even filming the video to make sure and it was only a tooth or two off luckily. The steering has been working well. Thanks for checking out the vid.
So far so good! It definitely tightened things up a bit and the new servo is definitely a bit more responsive. Unfortunately, it didn't take ALL of the slop out, but that's next to impossible with these designs and plastic parts. A definite improvement overall though and everything is more durable and less likely to break when I run it into my legs at full speed! 🤣🤣
Great! Have ya taken it out for a rip yet? I got a set of road tires for mine recently and noticed it cogs slightly at take off, so will drop a couple teeth on the spur to fix that.
Hey buddy, I painted them. Cleaned thoroughly with hot soapy water, primed, then painted. The spring coils have flaked off a bit here and there due to the nature of the flex. I've since replaced the entire shock units with GPM aluminum body shocks.
@@thanumgaming I’ve seen bad reviews in a few different places. One example is Amain hobbies: check the feedback in the review section of that servo saver. The stated specific problems they had with the design of the HR servo saver. Hopefully the bellcrank is designed better because that is something I’ve been interested in swapping. Cheers
Thanks! Congratulations on the new truck! Do you have other vehicles as well or will this be your first? They are fun trucks. Wait till you pull the trigger with a 3s in it, these trucks move!
@@EDDIETYPER That's great! Welcome to the hobby! Be sure to follow the main rule, are you having fun? Then you're doing it right! It really is a great community overall. Eventually you'll come to a very hard question about it though... what one do I buy next?! 🤣🤣
Very true. I have left it alone thus far as the diameter only changed approx 1-2mm and I usually only run 2S in it. However, I am always monitoring the electronics for heat.
There's a much easier way to remove the bottom cap and you may know this by now. @1:24 You can see that the lower spring perch has a built in piece that mates to the lower end of the shock body. You just need to compress the shock and the lower perch notches into the bottom shock cap on the shock body, and then twist to unscrew the cap. This is a really great design that has been pointed out on other channels. Unfortunately, my Vorteks doesn't have this built-in tool in the lower spring perch! So I have to use pliers to remove the lower cap.
You are correct. I did realize that after the video and felt like a bozo. haha Thanks for stopping by and checking out the vid. I just did a steering upgrade in the Senton and will be uploading that video soon.
I'm new to RC this past month or so with a 3S/6S conversion and a stock 6S Senton, Done tons of research these past weeks. I think I'm actually looking to go to the 12mm hex nut for the variety. Also, a thing I never thought of before regards increasing tire size also changes the overall gearing ratio and increases motor stress. While the 6S will handle 17mm, I'm thinking by going down to 12mm that I can get more speed while going to a larger wheel would give more torque? Or do I have that backwards?
So the way it works in full size cars is, when you go up in tire size only, it'll increase your top end but slowly kill your "off the line". That's when you gear accordingly to make up for the tire size difference. Like I remember when I used to run mud trucks, for up to 33" or so tires, you'd usually want a 3:73 - 4:10/1 33"-36" was usually 4:102 and then above 35" tires was 4:56 or above. Of course multiple other factors like, power band of the engine, intended running surfaces and conditions, etc. ... but yes a larger wheel will increase your top speed and slowly kill off the line. That can also generate more heat in the motor since it's working harder (undergeared) at take off, and running max RPM and high end). So as always, finger test the motor every so often. If you can't keep your finger on it for more then 3-5 seconds without getting burned it's getting too hot. You can't go wrong with the 12mm wheel options out there as well. I just went 17mm for the extra overall strength.
@@thanumgaming Thanks for the info! I'm not good with math, so apparently I'll have to learn an equation or two. :) I had not considered that the 17mm would be an inherently stronger tire for the added mass of the material. In my case, I'm with the star wars R2 -D2 builders club, so have a very specialized angle on the RC hobby. One of the guys in the club realized the Senton was perfect for one of the minor droids from the movies. So rather than an RC truck shell that weighs no more than an ounce or so, we are strapping 3-5lb plastic totes to the chassis. I went with the 6S stats for the added power with a 14tooth pinion on the 2050kv motor run by the blx185 esc. The stock pinoin is 20tooth on the 6S (iirc) so am thinking by going down on tooth count for torque, I reckon to use smaller wheels to increase the speed (down the road when I get to that upgrade and see how it performs as is). I've barely run the thing with all the converting I've been doing, but the one or two test runs have been exhilerating to see this thing move. I just can't believe the modern technology compared to when I was a kid in the '70's. Mind-blowing stuff!
@@GearsMcTinkersome Once you get it, charge a battery and test it before changing gears. You will be surprised just how much power and torque that has out of the box. That sounds awesome though as far as the project you intend to use it in. I've been a SW fan ever since seeing the first one in the theaters.
@@thanumgaming I couldn't use hte stock pinioin as the bore diameter didn't match the new 2050kv motor 1 mod to 0.8 mod. :( But I'll be messing around with different pinons over time to see how many teeth are practical under what circumstances.
They are held in place by a threaded pin that holds the hub onto the axle shaft itself. Thus far it has held up and the screws have not backed out. I'm about to do a full steering upgrade on this truck as well to help tighten up the front end. Keep an eye out for the video in the next week or so.
Just barely got the senton, to go with the typhon and.. bang one of the tires exploded 30 seconds of running! Oh well. Ordered some badlands. But will be doing this upgrade soon.
Congrats on your new rig! It's a solid upgrade for sure. I just got the parts to do a total steering overhaul in the Senton as well. Be sure to keep an eye out for that video in the next week or two. Thanks for stoppin by!
Your audio is really really low, I'd say it's 20% of what is normal. Might need a better mic, hope you create a rev 2 version of this maintenance video.
I did notice a bit, however these always have some slop in the front end in general. Especially after a couple seasons of bashing. On yours, do you mean "wobble / diameter" slop, "in/out axle stub movement" slop? For the later, maybe some small very thin washers in there to take up the space?
@@thanumgamingAppreciate you taking the time to reply back! What I think I'm going to do is machine some aluminum rod, thread the middles so i can screw them on the axles and slide the hexes over them to fill that space then no slop or wobble. But you are right on all the slop all over the truck lol
I got mine from the local hobby shop close to me. They're part number Traxxas 5353X. The X suffix designates the blue color. Looks like they're currently available on Traxxas as well as a few other websites.
Thank you! They are some nice treads for sure. I just painted up a Pro-Line C10 body with a full blue fade into a checkered flag. Added some blue highlights on the rims to complete the look. Posted a few pics on my Instagram if ya do that type of thing. #thanumgaming
The inner diametre off the Traxxas hub matches the diametre off the axle? From the feedbacks I found, that's the most common problem. With some kits you get a screw to fix at the end of the hub to fix it place by filling the gap. I've ordered the typhon 17mm hub pieces + axle. Should fit the senton. Waiting delivery
The whole assembly feels tight, there is slight slight play though. However, there is always a small amount of play in all of these cars. Have you received your new parts and tried them on yet?
@@thanumgaming mine after few laps (without tire glue threadlocker), the wheel got whobble because there is a gap to play. Is there any solution? Or axle nut 4mm maybe to fill the gap ?
A lot of people make use of the cut out under the spur by making a hole on the chassis right under it. Lets the dirt out instead of killing bearings in the slipper assembly and motor.
I would think they are equally good on the street. I don't have any road tires with 17mm hubs currently though, so can not speak from first hand experience.
Seriously? That's crazy! Did you buy it from a local hobby shop or from Horizon? Pretty sure Horizon warranties the Arrma stuff still. Take a picture of your receipt and a pic of the tire and description and they will more then likely send you a replacement free of charge. I had an issue with the motor in mine about 6 months after purchase, contacted them, and had a new motor in my hands within a week.
Same mine blew out the night I bought it. Now it’s been a few more days and the motor is burnt out as well. I Should be able to get it warrantied though like I did for the tires. They sent me two more replacements for my blowout. Loving it tho!
My stock motor died on mine as well. Definitely hit them up about that. It seams to be a somewhat common problem for whatever reason. The only way they'll fix it is if we keep calling them out on it. Glad you're digging the truck though other then those issues.
If you are referring to the wiggle at the hub itself, I'd say yes. It does help take out any small play at the hub itself. However, keep in mind there is always some play in these vehicles in general. Especially in the steering and when the suspension flexes it can make things wiggle a bit as well. No way to fully get rid of all of it really, short of machining every part out of steel/alloy with bearings and super tight tolerances. Like full size autos. Kind of the nature of the beast with these little guys.
Thanks for putting this together. I have been looking for a way to convert to 17mm. Will also pass on to my local hobby shop because they were not sure. Already verified through there website that they have that part on hand. Road trip time.
There is no wobble on mine at all. Other then the slight play that is always inherent in these vehicles. Is the wobble radiating from the wheel and the hub itself? Is the rim fully seated onto the hub hex? Or is it just wobble in the front end in general? Which might point to worn steering link ends and whatnot.
Just getting back into the rc world, keep seeing the stock tires are less than great. How do these tires perform? You have a videos of it running on those? Awesome video by the way, straight to the point and good information!
Thank you! Yeah they are a bit soft for sure and seam to shred a bit easier then normal. Which is too bad because they have a good tread on them. I don't have a video of it running on them but maybe I'll charge up a pack quick and go hit a parking lot for some footage. Thanks again for checking out the vid and channel. Glad it was helpful.
you all probably dont give a shit but does someone know a tool to log back into an Instagram account?? I somehow lost the account password. I would love any help you can give me.
@Zev Braylon thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
Thanks for this! Just picked up the brushed Senton since I am new to R\C ground vehicles. Besides a brushless upgrade, being able to use more common tires was something that was more in my range of a newbie to fiddle with. Plus a blowout will happen eventually on the stock tires, might as well be ready with a spare set until I can fix the SCT ones. Thanks again. Liked and subbed! :-)
