AB automotive 9-712016 Range Road 72A, County of Grande Prarie, AB Call or Text: (780) 380-3206
Your Personal Mechanic Is Here
AB automotive is serving the Grande Prarie area since 2016 and is run by Andrew Bondarenko, Red Seal Automotive Service Technician with over 25 years of experience and extensive knowledge of modern automotive technology, with a lifelong interest in cars and motors. My business goal (apart from making a profit, obviously) is to provide the best quality of work on the market and top-tier technical expertise, combined with direct contact between customers and a technician working on their vehicles. Hence is "Your Personal Mechanic", someone you know in person and can talk directly every time you come here.
AB automotive business is built upon the reputation of quality workmanship and personal responsibility. If this is what you are looking for - congratulations, you are in the right place!
the rattle isnt as loud for me, but could this make the oil pressure light/sound activate? I just went twice to the mecanich and message still pops up when im idle after rolling a bit, but goes away as soon i press the gaa
You saved me more money ..I just paid a shop $300 to replace the knock sensor because this problem kept triggering the P0324 code... Tore off the valve cover today and sure enough the timing chain guide was loose.. After cleaning the bolt holes and bolts and torquing it down to 71 inch lbs with lock tight on the treads... But, When torquing down the valve cover I snapped the #1 sequence bolt trying to torque it down to 74 inch lbs... I put some RTV silicone under the top and over it.. I also put a little bead along the gasket area of the broken bolt .. The car runs so much quieter and better..But, was throwing out oil from the broken bolt...So, hoping the rtv does the trick . Again, thanks for the video... Without it I would have probably spent who knows how much more money....
Thanks for the video,I am in the process of doing both of the rear knuckles,most of the bolts are sized in there,so it's a pain ,the knuckles can be found on e bay complete with bushings
This is great to know and you’re Canadian to boot. Do you have a video on the PVC bypass system that several places sell. Hope there’s a source for that kit in Canada. Beats changing the valve cover out every couple years.
Awsume video ive been looking for this long time, the first bolt i began unscrew snapped off lol howto remove the lit now is stucked cant remove it, ty for the nice video though
So I'm going thru it Im pretty sure it getting air into ur powersteeriñg line most cases it's the seal on the line is messed up least what I've learned is the problem
Dude you are a lifesaver. Thank you. I have been chasing this for a month. Heading out to do it now. GM should have issued a service bulletin for bolts being used with no secondary retention feature from the factory. They could have added this to the service needed with the intake manifold, valve cover and PCV all blow out. If I had known I would have retorqued wtih thread lock when I put the Dorman fix it. Dorman redesign is awesome BTW. No issues on valve cover and intake manifold. 35K on those parts so far.
Thanks so much for this. I followed your video and was able to complete the job in my driveway. Very clear and easy to follow instructions. I got lucky with the ABS sensor and was able to remove it. My tip there is to disassemble until you can access the sensor port from the inside of the knuckle and soak it from both sides with penetrating oil. Was not so lucky with the bolts as I did have to cut them just as you indicated. Love your accent by the way.
Lol😂.. it came lose because the oil pressure tensioner at the bottom of the engine is leaking oil. You can hear your valves cherp.. timing is off. Fix your timing chain.
One of my bolts were broken on the upper timing chain guide. No stores have the bolts and doesn’t come with the guide. Anyone know the bolt size? Or know where I can get them? Not on gm direct, gm or other sites I’ve checked.
Yes they are, but this issue is 2x minimum. You know when this happens. Loss of power with no SEL caused by vibes being picked up by knock sensor due to lifter noise then retards spark with no SEL. Computer doing its job.
I've had this problem for 4 years on my car, turns out the timing chain upper guide was not only broken where the housing screws were, but the top guide was 30% snapped off! $8 later and I'm in tears of joy without a check engine light that's been on for 4 years! Hopefully now it's better! Thank you for showing this, considering I've had so many mechanics stumped on this!
At the end of the video it sounds like the engine is ticking is that normal ? I have something like that going on and I'm just worried it's some sort of knock
Can't say without hearing your engine, but a lot of modern cars (especially these Cruzes) make a lot of injector noise. To me it almost sounds like a click/tap like some tapping a whiteboard with their fingernails. It's normal operation, the noise is due to the high pressure the fuel injectors operate at: vehicles these days can have pressures as high as 3000 PSI. Although it could be something else, it is likely just the injectors operating normally.
My 2014 Cruze was clattering like an old school diesel, with uneven acceleration. My mechanic said the noise was a problem deep in the engine, too much trouble to repair, and to drive it until it dies. I followed your advice instead, plus swapped in a new valve cover & gasket (to avoid the known PVC vacuum leak problem with this engine) and spark plugs (at about 100,000 kms it's time). Yes, the chain guide was loose. Now the clatter is gone, acceleration is as smooth as a baby's cheek. Thank you.
I had the exact same problem! Been chasing that noise and power reduction for months and multiple mechanics told me there was nothing wrong. Took it upon myself to fix it and found the same issue you displayed. Really appreciate the noise comparison at the end, it's super useful!
There is no need to remove the rear seat to disconnect those abs sensors. If you're replacing them, cut them, and disconnect it from the plug via the long vertical panels next to the seat. When reinstalling the new ones, pry open the rear plastic panels behind the seat so you can push the abs cable foward to be able to reconnect. Did this last week. I believe removing the rear seat completely is a waste of time.
No, thnak you but no. If I WILL need to remove it I can do it easily by heating the bolts, I wouldn't even need to use that much heat. Actually, I never even had to use heat removing the fasteners I had previously installed on this red threadlock, it is not as "permanent" as it claims to be.
I've been having a noise issue with my 2012 Chevy Sonic LT 1.8L and I don't know what it is or what to do anymore at this point besides asking directly. I will post this link and hopefully you can help me? Link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0K8RF5fSkik.html
Appreciate the tip, sure enough that guide tower could be wiggled, bolts loose by finger. Clean, threadlock, and ship it. Not a bad time to inspect cam followers also!
Thanks bro it worked like a charm I been chasing this noise for 3 months took it to the so called best mechanics you don’t know how much money and headaches you saved me
Thanks bro it worked like a charm I been chasing this noise for 3 months took it to the so called best mechanics you don’t know how much money and headaches you saved me
