Great work. There are always some problems when making something like this. Auto mobile companies have hundreds of engineers and spend hundreds of millions developing new engines and the reason is it is not easy, it is hard.
Grattis till att motorn gick så fint. Det har varit intressant och lärorikt att få följa dina projekt. Jag väntar gärna till hösten, det är det väl värt.
This comment comes a bit late but may be useful for future projects. Cut out the centre of the bar with a hole saw. You may need to extend the hole saw with a piece of tube to get the depth but at least you will have a core left for other work and not waste material.
The subject was up for discussion at the time. There is something called trepanning tool that makes big holes and save the core for later use. But in my case, I didn't want to go all the way thru. I made the bar 20mm longer and left the last 20mm massive so I had a solid piece to fasten in the chuck. When you make a sleeve only 3mm thick there is a big risk it becomes triangular. And if you don't tighten the chuck hard enough you get vibrations or worse, it loosen.
@@Desmouffe yes I can see your point. With a hole saw of the right diameter you could make the bar into a very thick walled pipe. It should have thick enough walls to clamp securely in the lathe chuck so you can bore, turn and part off. I don't think a trappaning tool would go deep enough for a cylinder. I've made cylinders 4 1/2" long by hollowing out a solid bar with a hole saw. Something to keep in mind for a future project.
@@Hydrogenblonde And one more thing. With my method I can do both inside and outside without changing it in the chuck. But the main reason is I don't have a hole saw and I guess they are expensive.
@@Desmouffe no they are pretty cheap really. Get the high speed steel type for cutting metal. Sandvik makes a range of sizes. You'll need the arbour as well. As I said before they have limited depth of cut and will need extending to cut the depth needed for a cylinder. Only problem is they are slow. It is a sawing operation not a drilling operation. The saw teeth are shallow and the hole saw will need to be removed from the cut frequently to clear out the chips from the teeth. But cast iron is pretty soft, you will cut through it without trouble. Also good on aluminium. I've made quite a few cylinder blocks from aluminium round bar, cut the centre out with a extended holesaw and saved the piece from the centre for another job. Experiment with it. It could be useful in the future.
Add bars stop leak to an engine only once its up to operating temperature when running, (after thoroughly shaking the can), its the little bits that do the sealing when they melt.
I wonder Who clould have sugested the hole in the thermostat holder.......................I did not find my old coment, but I also havent found another comnent sugesting it either, so my pleasure to by "one of you"❤ This is first time some creator really took my sugestion💪👍
@@Desmouffe Thanks, I really enjoy the series, you have one of the best fabriction and precision mashing skills I have seen on youtube. You channel is everything I have been looking for (from casting to welding to engine desing to precision mashing, just everything interesting) on YT
The smile on your face was really great to see. Hopefully, just a head gasket leak. Enjoy your well-deserved break and I will be really excited to pick this up again in the Autumn.
@@Desmouffe Don't feel bad, Dodge had really bad porosity problems with the first few years of their ubiquitous 3.6L "pentastar" V6, which was put into just about every vehicle they sold. It was their first die cast engine block.
I have a great admiration for you, next autumn will have it sorted. I will surely miss your videos in the mean time. Have a good summer for you and your family.
Your approach to this whole project is flawless....Because your attitude is to build, test, diagnose, improve....then do it again. Success will be yours !!
The coolant expands as it gets hot. Thats why in cars there are radiator caps to hold the coolant under pressure. Your cooling system should not be open as it is. The expansion tank is supposed to hold a certain amount of coolant so when the pressure exceeds the rating on the cap, it will fill into the expansion tank, and after the engine cools it will draw the coolant back into the motor. Also, I'd drain the coolant out and put fresh coolant in without the stop leak. Stop leak is a fast way to ruin everything you have built. I was in a state of shock when I seen you pop that can. I know what your reasoning was but it was wrong reasoning. You should use a normal auto thermostat that has direct contact with the coolant. Using the set up you have isn't going to give you the correct coolant temps, your set up is going to run cooler because the adapter is going to run cooler.
I don't think my engine can stand to be under pressure. It will not hold water, and to put in a normal auto thermostat will lead to mayor changes on the heads. My system is based on MX and enduro motorcycles that works fine and my fan starts at 65 dgr C. It's true that the temperature will not be constant and close to boilingpoint but it's fine with me. This engine is just for fun and will not be used for anything.
It runs great. Shame about the leak in the cylinder. But then we will see one more video from you. Have a nice summer. We will be waiting for the next video. Thank you so much.
