Superclear Epoxy Resin Systems is the leader in Epoxy Resin Technology. We specialize in Deep Pour Epoxy, Countertop Epoxy, Bar Top Epoxy, Adhesives, Colorants, Coatings, Castings, Solvents, & more!
We are dedicated to providing you the most premium, thoroughly tested and state-of-the-art formulated resin products. Your project matters to us, and that’s why we create and provide the best epoxy resins and epoxy based products.
Are any of your epoxies scratch resistant? I’ve used several types of art resin on my art, and all are so easily scratched when the art is handled. And coasters I’ve made with the excess get scratched up immediately. Having a hard time finding a solution for this.
What should I use to cast flowers in a 3" deep mold? I've seen issues with layering the deep pour as it shows lines on the side so I didn't know if this or table top was possibly better for that.
The direction that come with your epoxy recommends using the sealant first. I cant find what its refering to. Is that the glass top? Also it says the temperature needs to be between 70& 85 I think but your x Video says keep the epoxy cool. Please clarify. Ty
let me say this.... Superclear Epoxy is the BOMB! not only is the product everything you could ever want plus more BUT the customer service is AMAZING. Side note - My husband is a video editor and the production of this video is done very well. Very informative, thank you
Bought my husband a Traeger and he doesn’t even use it. He brought home a normal grill when I told him the Traeger is a grill lol I spent a lot of money on that thing.
Shellac can react with the epoxy and create a hazy look, which might be fine if you are adding in an opaque pour. However, if it is a clear pour, you will see some hazing.
Sorry to hear you are dealing with unwanted bubbles! The epoxy could be too warm or too cold. Please email superclear@fgci.com and our experts will be happy to assist you further.
I’m building and epoxy river table. I poured the first pour, let it get “rubbery” and then poured the 2nd pour. While I was popping bubbles and spreading the epoxy, I put my finger in and in some spots it felt like the 1st pour was “wrinkling or buckling”. Can you tell me if I have a minor or major problem developing?
Excellent!! Music is great maybe a bit loud but not bad. Thoroughly explained each step, what to do in a case by case situation and how to remedy any imperfections. Great job. Keep whipping real good. 😅 Bloopers help become more personable with your viewers and clients.
Can you guys do a video on your "Super-UV Absorber/HALS" additive for crystal clear long-lasting affect, please? Thank you. Some of us want 'CLEAR,' clear, clear pour instead of using colorants. Thanks!!!!
@@Str8smokin305 i use a drill mixer. keep the mixer away from the top pf the bucket and it will not introduce air into it. stir it with a stick a few times and continue mixing from the bottom
@@bigeasy2187 Thank u. I truly appreciate your expert advice. I'm actually going to do my first epoxy project tomorrow. Also, if u don't mind me asking. I'm going to do a 27sq ft counter top. I purchased the 2 gallon superclear table epoxy. Should I mix the whole 2 gallons?
@@Str8smokin305 i would not do it if its your first time. it can kick out and get very very hot if you are not fast enough with it. it will melt the 5 gallon bucket
Hey Eddie, we always recommend using our Superclear Table Top Epoxy for any sealing that may need to be done. You can brush on a thin layer, wait around 2-4 hours until it has tacked up, and then go ahead and pour your flood coat (or apply another seal coat if necessary). Let me know if you have any other questions! 👍
Hello there, I have recently decided to build my 1st river table (7ft x 42"). Upon breaking out of the mold, I went ahead and planed the entire top with a router. It took all day, leaving no time to do the bottom. Went into the shop next day, and of course, the table warped. Ran it to a shop 2hrs down the road with a CNC planer. Got it back, and apparently they routered the bottom completely flat and level, but did not completely plane the top. They also slightly got into a few of the larger stones embedded in the pour. After weighting the table down for a week, 98% of the warp is gone. In lieu of re-routering the entire top, I decided to order 2 gallons of your tabletop epoxy. Both sides of the table are sanded down to 220, the table is cut to size/squared, the edges routered and the Bidwell C Channel temporarily installed. I will do a seal coat on the top, and one "flood coat" that will be 1/8" deep at the center, and more of a seal coat at the ends. My #1 question is this - I'll be able to seal coat the top/sides, then pour the flood coat all in one day, but I definitely won't have time to do anything with the bottom on Day 1. Since the top/sides will be sealed up tight with epoxy, what would you recommend I do with the bottom of the table to seal it and avoid any additional warping? I assume just polishing 2 or 3 oil coats won't be enough? The table is currently 1.5" think, made from white ash milled on our property 6yrs ago.
I don't understand how so many epoxy companies have not tested for cps rating. It' has to be one of the most important stats and Liquid Glass doesn't test for it.
Hey there! We do actually have a CPS rating for all of our products on our website 😉 Here's the link to the Liquid Glass TDS in particular: www.superepoxysystems.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Liquid-Glass-Epoxy-System-TDS-12-08-21.pdf And here's the link to all of our SDS/TDS/Instructions: www.superepoxysystems.com/instructions-tds-sds/
@@superclearepoxy That's good to hear! I tried looking on your website the day I left my comment and could not find anything about CPS. I even tried running a search for the term CPS and found nothing.
I have a small wood bathroom sink with a 12 inch wood front 90° angle. I gave the sink a skim coat. How do I keep the front from running down when I do a flood coat?
Great question! Are you referring to the drips that can occur when you flood the surface or something else? Let me know, I'd love to help! Or give us a call at 888-849-0588. We're available M-F 8am-430pm EST.
Great information, I am brand new to epoxy and tried my first pour on a 12” round cribbage board made out of really old barn wood, customer wanted the natural rustic look of the wood. When I poured it the wood went from gray and light brown colors to dark and almost all the gray is gone, is there something I can do to preserve the colors before applying the epoxy?
Hey Joe, great question! I don't think there is a great way to prevent the wood from darkening. It would have the same effect if you sprayed the wood surface down with water. It is essentially absorbing a bit of the resin and causing that finished look. The best way to preserve as close to the original color as possible would be - a clear epoxy or a clear urethane. Which you have already attempted.. Let me know if you have any other questions though! 👍
I've been using Liquid Glass for about 4 years. Best epoxy I've ever used!! I mostly make epoxy river cutting boards but have also made a few small tables. They turn out beautiful! I also use Black Diamond pigments. Both are nothing but the best!! You wanna make good products use good ingredients.
Great question - we actually did NOT use any mold release in this product breakdown. BUT - if we did, we would highly recommend a paste wax mold release for use with Liquid Glass Deep Pour Epoxy. The sprayable mold release tends to dissolve before the deep pour epoxy cures. You can find the mold release on our online store: www.superepoxysystems.com/product-category/tools-accessories/mold-releases/