The csr comes with a diagram just follow the instructions. On a 1.5 pole i put it on the non shunt side so that it would be similar to a 2 pole commction
Your video helped me in diagnosing a buzzing sound on one of my AC condenser during start up. The intermittent buzzing sound only happens when the fan motor is starting up and then the buzz would stop after about 5-6 seconds. After watching your video, I went out to take a look at the contactor. The reset button was stuck "in" an in position. I touched it with an insulated screw driveer and it was vibrating, even with the power disconnected. I assume that the capacitors were causing this vibrating. I moved the reset button a few times back and forth to make sure it moved freely. I have since ordered a new contactor. This contactor had a lot of dust on it from the dry AZ heat and if looked a bit worn, with some rust on the spring. I checked all 3 of my AC condenser units for this. I learned a lot from your video. Thanks...
In the video, for a trained technician the power would be on. I would not advise without proper training. Although with all power off, indoor and outdoor unit…you could Ohm across the contactors points.
Our service man said that we don’t have function hand remote, which I looked it up and we do of course, and he said it only holds the history. I guess he meant of the air conditioner and what went wrong is true.
It is directional so it can seat one way, by-pass the other. It can go in either way, but the adapter won’t screw on unless you are in the correct position. The piston needs to seat into the piston body for the adapter to screw on. Thank you.
Very helpful, thank you! I'll check the rod to end of spool first to make sure I'm well below 25 Ohms before moving on in case I mess up the spool or connectors somehow.
Thanks for the video. My six years old Bryant high efficiency furnace has been working fine, but I checked/cleaned the secondary heat exchanger per your video. It needed to be cleaned since it had caked on dirt on about a third of the surface finned area. I had to disconnect the condensate pump, the humidifier, and the thermostat in order to get the air handler out, then forgot where all the wires went -- but I took a picture of the connections at the motherboard before hand, so all went well.
Yes. Especially on inverter/communicating systems. Bad ground reference points can create a lot of havoc. Usually not as easy as the video as this was a new home. But I always carry that spool of wire to checking grounding. Good luck.
This video does not tell you how to check your pressure switches. It tells you how to check your inducer motor. And is that going to be at full capacity for second stage or is that going to be at first stage capacity? Every furnace is a little bit different.
Hello, thank you for the video, do you know how to change the cells of the Testo 310. Disassembly is probably done by removing the large rubber casing which surrounds the device. Do you have your own process?
We use the thermostat almost exclusively manually. Not sure when we lost connectivity, but when I tried to use the APP it noted not connected. The thermostat has been "buggy" in this regard since we got it. At least one visit from the Bryant Dealer a couple of years ago got it going, but again, dead in the water. It seems ridiculous on its face to have to purchase a special router to use the thermostat. I'll try the dealer again, and if no luck we will only use manually. I may also check with the dealer about alternative thermostat options.
Lol this is NOT "the answer". And yes I was tortured into trying it by Bryant/Carrier. (as absurd as the idea was) you should take this down. There is an issue with their thermostats and or "evolution data server".
My Bryant 915SA48080S17 is heating up but throws a 33 after 3 minutes. The filter is brand new, and I even opened up the blower door, but the 33 is still popping. Any suggestions?
If it’s within 3 minutes and filter is clean, registers open and such…I would think dirty secondary HTX or gas pressure. Many items affect limits, but tripping in 3 minutes eliminates a lot. We have seen issues with insulation not allowing proper airflow around the limit…but it runs longer than 3 minutes. Could be faulty limit but that’s rare. My guess would he dirty secondary or something blocking airflow. Any checks beyond filters and registers should be performed by a trained professional. I do a lot of DIY work myself, but replacing a trap on the sink won’t burn the house down as an example. Not knowing your skill level, just making sure that’s clear. Good luck.
Great video. Please correct me if I am wrong. But that plate is actually part of the back face plate of the primary. Yes it sits ontop of the secondary but it's part of the primary. Thanks
What you really need to check on that model is the primary heat exchanger. Remove the main limit switch and put a scope in there. The primary on that is going to corrode early. Already seen it on lots. The primary was designed to drop the temperature too much and it is condensing before it gets to the secondary.
I have not heard this? I will look into this…certainly possible, anything is possible that’s for sure. The 900 and 59 series was released I believe 2011. I can tell you primary HTX failure on those products across North America is extremely low. If I hear about condensing in the primary I typically think under fired and or low return air temperatures. I will look into this. Thank you.
Great video, but when I attempt to slide it out only one side is free. The side closer to the door switch moves about 1/8" and then hangs up. Any tips on what to look for?
I tried to install a 24V Honeywell thermostat to by Bryant Evolution furnace and the thermostat will turn on but not turn on the furnace heat. I believe the voltages coming to the thermostat were reading 70V. Do any of the little switches on the circuit board allow 24 volt thermostats. The old bryant still works but has some broken analog type buttons and the new Bryant thermostats are very pricey.
Connecting directly to the box only proves the inducer pressure produced. And good luck if it stays on long enough if you don't know how to force second stage before it locks out. Indeed a tee would be the best method.
Thanks for this important tip for aspiring HVAC . However I currently have a instructor who recommends not pushing in the "reset button" on contacts to do anything ! Now with that in mind , your presentation is still valuable , and I will try this next class when available in our labs.
I believe the math is correct. They are general rules, referring to the National Fuel Gas Code and section on venting is always recommended. Thank you.
@@vitorao I agree. However in this case I don’t need the full volume with the 50% there is wiggle room. I’m not calculating the volume of chimney, which obviously is very different. It’s close enough for manifolding considering flue pipe isn’t sold in half inches. As mentioned in the video, always refer to the National Fuel gas code for exact allowances of gas fired appliance’s. Thank you.
@@HabeggerHelp, yes, in this case it's close enough. But you could have a case in which the result could be significantly different. Why not do the math correctly?
I never had connectivity issues until this last update about a week ago. So confusing. I have a WiFi connection so I can operate it but do I need to be connected to my evolution??
Very helpful, would like an explanation on why sw4-2 causes this error. Is it because of the auto staging feature for a single stage thermostat sending mixed signals?
The UI reads the board. Furnace staging can be system, UI and so on. Turning on SW4-2 disables the boards staging algorithm. Turned on is used for multi staging 24vac thermostats. Staging by stat demand. The UI is now looking for a staging algorithm that doesn’t exist anymore and goes into a communication loss. Hope this helps!
We have certainly had a few OTA updates that created connectivity issues with the server over the years. Since version 4.05 release that appears to be corrected. We find a lot more issues with internet routers from providers. It seems they continuity keep making changes to protect their service…and the factory keeps trying to update software to work with it. It can be frustrating for a technician, which is why we often recommend a separate N-band router when there are continuous connectivity problems.
