A Chanel dedicated to remodelling Luxury Bathrooms. My name is Sat Bhogal (rhymes with mogul). My goal is to keep it real and teach you everything I know about this beautiful trade. Stick with me on this journey and you will be able to build your very own Luxury Bathroom. 🚽 🛀
Dude, I love your video. You are a total pro and carry yourself well with your informational explanation. You also seem to love your work. Cheers mate!
Do you always glue soil pipes in? I've noticed most of the soil pipes here are push fit with rubber seals... is that normal for internal soil fittings etc or just underground?
Have watched this quite a few times now, the detail is excellent. Never fitted one of these types of toilet before and redoing my own bathroom. All ready for the tiler now 😊
Thank you!!!! Have been struggling to understand what fitting to use on the concealed cistern. I had been looking at Speedfit elbow to tap, or a flexible hose but was concerned about the seal onto the cistern fitting (virtually the same as you show here).
Great video. Very detailed explanations of what you are doing however... I disagree completely with your comment ref plasterboard and tiling. Plasterboard should NEVER be used in any bathroom, cloakroom and especially not in a shower area or wet room. This materials is for covering studwork hence why the Americans call it drywall. The clue is in the name. So plasterboard, no matter how dense, is definitely NOT suitable for large format tiles and has a very low loading capacity so this limits the weight of tiles you can adhere to it. If you plaster skim the plasterboard prior to tiling this makes the situation worse as the max loading value decreases. You should always use "backer board". There are many makes of this in all sizes and thicknesses and once taped and sealed at the joins and corners is a far superior product which can take much heavier wall tiles. Yes, this is more expensive but I prefer my tiles not to come off the wall which ends up being cheaper in the long run if you have to start over again.
Glad you enjoyed the video. I’d have to agree on some areas you’ve mentioned however my experience over the last 20 years has intuitively grasped that any 10mm porcelain or hard grade ceramic tile when back buttered and full bedded, creates an extremely solid surface. I think it’s a skill in itself to understand where and what product to use in what scenario. I would definitely never skim with gypsum products. And with your reference to loads I would say that there is no load to be pulling on the plasterboard when the pan itself is clamping it fully to the metal frame work. Your have provided an excellent analysis of my tutorial and I greatly appreciate the feedback
@diybathrooms5123. Hi thanks for the reply. Think I wasn't too clear about loading. I was referring to the load on the plasterboard from the wall tiles not the toilet. There should be no load at all on the plasterboard where the toilet pans is hung as all the rotational and downward forces should be taken up by the timber frame. If anyone feels they must tile on plasterboard and not backer board then the load of the tiles has to be taken into account so large format tiles are not a good idea as there is a maximum weight per m2 that plasterboard, not skimmed, can take 🤫
That poor client. I would have lost it, but as a qualified interior designer, those cowboys wouldn't get very far. I know the signs to look for. I hope you put it right for them. That radiator over the bath is a death trap and the whole layout is wrong. Zero thought process in how to make best of a small space. Builders from hell.
A very informative and enjoyable tutorial...great stuff. I'm DIY'ing this job right now, so I've found your film very useful and it's helped me a lot. Bravo Sir.......(subscribed)
This is a great instructional video for me as this will be my first time installing a toilet. I have recently purchased the same wall-hung setup for my cloakroom. I was checking all the waste pipe fittings and came across a small issue. The waste pipe goes straight into the concrete floor but is 110mm in diameter, and the outlet pipe in the set is 90mm in diameter. Watching your video you mention a reducer from 110mm to 90mm. Could you tell me if this is in the kit or if I have to purchase one? Do you have a web link to the part? Thanks
Great video! I now feel 90% there with tackling this myself, however, the only remaining question I have is... Is this the same process if going against plaster only wall as opposed to tile behind? Thanks in advance!
Great video /explanatory step by step appreciate your concern protecting the floor and how about control flush box is protruding out of wall ? It can be flush out with tile finish wall ?
This was fantastic. I have builders in my home at the moment working on this exact thing. It enables me as a consumer to see if they are not cutting corners...and so far they are brilliant.
Hi, the reason the screw did not thread, is because you used a drill, that damaged the thread. Probably better to use a large straight bit in the drill, to screw in the rod, if you cant be bothered to to by hand.
Hi. I’ve got from front to back, 165mm of space for the frame to fit in. Will this be enough to allow for the bend in the side fitting soil pipe? I’m having to put a new soil pipe in so I can drill it anywhere in that space mentioned above. Thank you
What about the .098 version? Would the seat hit the flush plate? I suppose it might depend on the WC but generally, any feedback would be most welcome. Nice video btw, thank you!
Thank you for the reply. Is there another option for flushes with these frames? Ie. a flush sit away from the cistern? I have seen this before as a push button rather than a flush plate.
@@Mit_yourfriend yes you can get a pneumatic dual flush button. You have to alter the parts inside. I’m not entirely sure if it’s doable on a 0.98 but I can’t see why not
I used this video to install my toilet. Its not perfect but it works😅 especially aligning and leveling is ver difficult if you dont have a frame in place first
Can you just add some additional wood framing to brace the tank in between the two studs? I wouldn't think you would want to secure the tank to the wallboard, so the tank and bowel can move seprately without moving the wallboard (and cracking joint)
Absolutely the best video I have seen on how to install a concealed toilet system. I am fitting mine on Friday and was concerned about flex behind toilet pan when installed. You cover this around 37.20. Would you use the self tapping screw or is a sealant best? Depending on your reply, what size screw would you use? Or which sealant. Thanks and keep up the good work. Ian
Hi Ian thank you so much, glad it will help you installing the frame. I have always used a sealant like CT1. Self tapping screws around 25mm can also be used. The purpose of the screws is to get the plasterboard to hug the steel and avoid any micro gaps forming. You can also use a hss bit around 3mm and and drive a few drywall screws into the frame to squash the sealant. Ultimately when it’s tiled you need to make sure there’s full bed coverage of adhesive. Hope that helps. Any questions please feel free to ask.
Absolute legend. What a perfectly explained video. Many thanks. Quick question, when hand tightening the locking Allen key bolts that pull the pan tighter to the wall, how do you know when to stop? What is the limit? I get worried I will tighten it so much that I will crack either the pan or the tiles 🙊
Hi. The way to check is the physically see the pan being pulled and to the point the Allen keys are too hard to turn. If you’re adhesive bed is full your tiles shouldn’t crack. Silicone around the pan and once cure sit to see if you see any obvious movement.