In this video I show you an in depth process on how to install a wall hung concealed toilet frame. How to calculate the finished floor level, how to securely fix the frame to the floor and wall, plasterboard and hang the wall hung pan.
Dude, I love your video. You are a total pro and carry yourself well with your informational explanation. You also seem to love your work. Cheers mate!
This was fantastic. I have builders in my home at the moment working on this exact thing. It enables me as a consumer to see if they are not cutting corners...and so far they are brilliant.
One of the best tutorials I've seen on youtube, Very well articulated and explained. Will allow a novice DIYer to tackle this job without any issues. We'll done, keep up the good work Sat. From 13 years of joining youtube, this is my first comment I've posted. Thats how good I thought it was.
Have watched this quite a few times now, the detail is excellent. Never fitted one of these types of toilet before and redoing my own bathroom. All ready for the tiler now 😊
I just want to say thank you, for. Your videos and specifically this one, I’ve removed a toilet and added in a wall hung one by watching this over and over, I’m super chuffed with myself, you went into so much detail and answered all my questions, thank you 😊
To use PEX than is need an sweat adaptor from copper to PEX expendable or crimp. Also can use pres fit copper fitting viega either for copper to PEX or copper to copper I presume
Literally one of the best tutorials I have watched. Excellent presentation, clear and concise. Keep up the good work. Subscribed off the back of this video. 👍
Just came across your channel whilst looking for tips and tricks on installing a Wall Hung toilet. I do have to say possibly the best install tutorial on this subject, Clearly explaining the areas that people will struggle in. Great job.
@@diybathroom5123 one question. I have a sheet of 12mm ply spare and no green plasterboard. Would the 12mm ply be ok behind the hung toilet? Save me having to buy a sheet of plastervoard
there are many videos on this install on youtube including from GEBERIT themselves, but this one is the best, its a long video but thats whats needed for this especially if like me its first time doing one, thanks for your video.
A very informative and enjoyable tutorial...great stuff. I'm DIY'ing this job right now, so I've found your film very useful and it's helped me a lot. Bravo Sir.......(subscribed)
Thank you!!!! Have been struggling to understand what fitting to use on the concealed cistern. I had been looking at Speedfit elbow to tap, or a flexible hose but was concerned about the seal onto the cistern fitting (virtually the same as you show here).
Very good detailed video and good explanation I wish you could post more videos about bathroom it's really helpfull keep up the good work mate.. Upload more videos
Absolute legend. What a perfectly explained video. Many thanks. Quick question, when hand tightening the locking Allen key bolts that pull the pan tighter to the wall, how do you know when to stop? What is the limit? I get worried I will tighten it so much that I will crack either the pan or the tiles 🙊
Hi. The way to check is the physically see the pan being pulled and to the point the Allen keys are too hard to turn. If you’re adhesive bed is full your tiles shouldn’t crack. Silicone around the pan and once cure sit to see if you see any obvious movement.
Great video /explanatory step by step appreciate your concern protecting the floor and how about control flush box is protruding out of wall ? It can be flush out with tile finish wall ?
This is a great instructional video for me as this will be my first time installing a toilet. I have recently purchased the same wall-hung setup for my cloakroom. I was checking all the waste pipe fittings and came across a small issue. The waste pipe goes straight into the concrete floor but is 110mm in diameter, and the outlet pipe in the set is 90mm in diameter. Watching your video you mention a reducer from 110mm to 90mm. Could you tell me if this is in the kit or if I have to purchase one? Do you have a web link to the part? Thanks
Hi. I’ve got from front to back, 165mm of space for the frame to fit in. Will this be enough to allow for the bend in the side fitting soil pipe? I’m having to put a new soil pipe in so I can drill it anywhere in that space mentioned above. Thank you
Absolutely the best video I have seen on how to install a concealed toilet system. I am fitting mine on Friday and was concerned about flex behind toilet pan when installed. You cover this around 37.20. Would you use the self tapping screw or is a sealant best? Depending on your reply, what size screw would you use? Or which sealant. Thanks and keep up the good work. Ian
Hi Ian thank you so much, glad it will help you installing the frame. I have always used a sealant like CT1. Self tapping screws around 25mm can also be used. The purpose of the screws is to get the plasterboard to hug the steel and avoid any micro gaps forming. You can also use a hss bit around 3mm and and drive a few drywall screws into the frame to squash the sealant. Ultimately when it’s tiled you need to make sure there’s full bed coverage of adhesive. Hope that helps. Any questions please feel free to ask.
love your channel. thanks. my question: remodel concrete slab bathroom, don't want to damage slab, don't want to use old sewer, can i use this wall mount framing with toilet face the exterior wall and hook the bowl drain toward outside of the wall to connect the new sewer line reroute ABS pipe?
The frames normally come with a right angle waste pipe. This can be rotated to point downwards or sideways. Not sure if they do one with a straight pipe to go straight back and out of the wall. You could add another 90 degree bend so it goes down (or sideways) then turns to go out through a wall.
@@ColinWatters yes you’re right Another brand that supplies the straight 3inch aswell as the elbow is a brand which is another favourite. It’s called TECE made in Germany.
Hi, thanks alot for this video & am super excited watching it. Actually am about installing something similar for the very first time as a plumber & I have been doing alot of thinking on it. Please I have some some questions for like (1) I have watch alot of video concerning on the installation, alot of them have similar stuff like placing the wall mounted concealed frame on a wood. Does that necessarily mean I have to tell my client to build wooden frame for it? (2) How about the option of using blocks? (3) am also concerned more on the finish floor level so my w/c won't be more higher above the floor?. (4) using plywood to cover the whole framework, can tiles stick to the wood?
Do you always glue soil pipes in? I've noticed most of the soil pipes here are push fit with rubber seals... is that normal for internal soil fittings etc or just underground?
Thank you for the informative presentation. I’m in the process of planning for my install but I’m not finding necessary information to finalize my plans. My total wall board thickness will only be ½ inches. Do you feel this will be adequate or does the flush actuator need more room to operate correctly? Thank you.
Brilliant video. Couple of questions if I may Is there an issue using flexible pan connector where connecting into existing SVP is problematic? Also you mention if the grub screw drops Into the pottery it's a nightmare. Would that mean new WC pan 😮?
Hi, thanks a lot. In regards to you question using a flexi pan connector it’s doable. I have another video on my channel showing it being used. The grub screw can be removed with a little persuasion to get it to find the hole in the pottery where the seat fits.
Hi. Super video. Just wondering, if the soil pipe is going straight out the back.. the Geberit kit only comes with an elbow. Do you need to get a special Geberit straight fitting? Thanks a mil!
Yes you would need to order the straight fitting. There is a way to make it work using the reducer that they supply but you need to be experienced in positioning it
@@diybathroom5123 Thanks a mil for the reply. I think Screwfix seem to have quite a few diff fittings, so I reckon I'll maybe take out the old toilet first and see what'll work best then.
Is it reliable with an almost horizontal slope? I am looking to install this exact frame/carrier and luckily found your video after endless searching. The manual says the outlet should maximum go 45 degrees to each side but I don't have enough height to make that work so I have been searching everywhere to find out if nearly horizontal similar to what you do in the video will work. My setup is identical to yours except instead of wood at the bottom I have a riser clamp where the tee in the main stack has to sit above which causes the center of the outlet to be nearly at the same height as the toilet outlet. There is only around 10 inches from the toilet outlet to the main stack where it will connect. I have been calculating back and forth and adding the floor height like you advise and the center of the toilet outlet will be around 9.25"-9.75" from the ground and the center of the tee outlet in the main soil stack will be around 8.75", so a drop of 0.50" to 1" over 10". Hope you have time to answer as I don't know what the heck to do and have had to stop the project while my hole bathroom is gutted. Thanks for sharing this video - best video I have found.
Hi Martin. Your calculation sounds correct in terms of height. In regards to the slope of you drainage pipe, I can honest say from experience you will be fine. 10 inches is a very small distance. Obviously the T (sweeping T / branch ) portion sweeps down? The force of the water from the cistern will be enough to get the rid of the waste.
Great video! I now feel 90% there with tackling this myself, however, the only remaining question I have is... Is this the same process if going against plaster only wall as opposed to tile behind? Thanks in advance!
I used this video to install my toilet. Its not perfect but it works😅 especially aligning and leveling is ver difficult if you dont have a frame in place first
What about the .098 version? Would the seat hit the flush plate? I suppose it might depend on the WC but generally, any feedback would be most welcome. Nice video btw, thank you!
Thank you for the reply. Is there another option for flushes with these frames? Ie. a flush sit away from the cistern? I have seen this before as a push button rather than a flush plate.
@@Mit_yourfriend yes you can get a pneumatic dual flush button. You have to alter the parts inside. I’m not entirely sure if it’s doable on a 0.98 but I can’t see why not
Can you just add some additional wood framing to brace the tank in between the two studs? I wouldn't think you would want to secure the tank to the wallboard, so the tank and bowel can move seprately without moving the wallboard (and cracking joint)
Did you have any issues when the bowl was installed? Per the directions it specifically says you can only install the elbow vertically or nothing less than a 45° angle.
There’s never a set amount from my experience. My early years as an apprentice I would wrap a cone shape at the start and then proceed with the wraps nice and flat/tight and leave one thread to catch the female. However some machining of parts varies and you’ll find the tightness can vary significantly. Now I use Loctite 577 which fills the thread completely.
Great video. Very detailed explanations of what you are doing however... I disagree completely with your comment ref plasterboard and tiling. Plasterboard should NEVER be used in any bathroom, cloakroom and especially not in a shower area or wet room. This materials is for covering studwork hence why the Americans call it drywall. The clue is in the name. So plasterboard, no matter how dense, is definitely NOT suitable for large format tiles and has a very low loading capacity so this limits the weight of tiles you can adhere to it. If you plaster skim the plasterboard prior to tiling this makes the situation worse as the max loading value decreases. You should always use "backer board". There are many makes of this in all sizes and thicknesses and once taped and sealed at the joins and corners is a far superior product which can take much heavier wall tiles. Yes, this is more expensive but I prefer my tiles not to come off the wall which ends up being cheaper in the long run if you have to start over again.
Glad you enjoyed the video. I’d have to agree on some areas you’ve mentioned however my experience over the last 20 years has intuitively grasped that any 10mm porcelain or hard grade ceramic tile when back buttered and full bedded, creates an extremely solid surface. I think it’s a skill in itself to understand where and what product to use in what scenario. I would definitely never skim with gypsum products. And with your reference to loads I would say that there is no load to be pulling on the plasterboard when the pan itself is clamping it fully to the metal frame work. Your have provided an excellent analysis of my tutorial and I greatly appreciate the feedback
@diybathrooms5123. Hi thanks for the reply. Think I wasn't too clear about loading. I was referring to the load on the plasterboard from the wall tiles not the toilet. There should be no load at all on the plasterboard where the toilet pans is hung as all the rotational and downward forces should be taken up by the timber frame. If anyone feels they must tile on plasterboard and not backer board then the load of the tiles has to be taken into account so large format tiles are not a good idea as there is a maximum weight per m2 that plasterboard, not skimmed, can take 🤫
Hi, the reason the screw did not thread, is because you used a drill, that damaged the thread. Probably better to use a large straight bit in the drill, to screw in the rod, if you cant be bothered to to by hand.
