My name is Renegade, and I'm just a normal person like you. Except I have a camera that I talk to. I hope to help others see that normal people can do a lot of the things they want to and that you dont have to be someone special to work on motorcycles and cars.
I build cool motorcycles, ride them; work on my car and drive it, and discuss it and life here, hoping to help you all. Artist, Mechanic, RU-vidr...I live my life MY WAY
I am also wanting to "update" the analog system as mine is 33 years old at this point. Its the fuel and tach I really want. Kid i bought it from had a cheap $20 all in one but only the speedo works 😂
I could use some of your experience on this model. I was given one that has working led headlight tail light. Signals were all removed previous. Have wiring diagram and basic tools but it’s driving me nuts. I got it running and added kill switch for fuel pump with help from RU-vid. But I’m stumped
Weather it’s wrenching on a b230, welding rotten floor pan, fixing the bikes or showing a clever way you figured something out I enjoy watching the videos. I have a few Volvos I keep around and I motorize bicycles, sharing your experiences with people n RU-vid is a great idea it lets you know people are out there and they have a real interest in what’s going on.
Isn't it? I've been driving the automatic for about a year...I can't wait to get back to a manual. I'm always on the hunt for the right components and another m47 for the 91
Similarly I've swapped my 86' engine for a 91'. Just did my first clutch with the m46, and it was a pain, but glad I know how to do it. Maybe one day I'll get the balls to convert it to a turbo...Your engine looks real nice, renegade! Keep em' running Brother.
I would have really liked to see you hook up the power to the fuse box and explanation of it. Can you suggest any video where you go into those details, it would really help me out down the road :) Great content by the way!
Hey renegade. I was given a intruder and I’m having trouble with the wiring. I’m a noob. Tail light works but not brake light. Switches seem to be legit. Just looking for some pointers or maybe contact info so we could FaceTime. Anything would be appreciated
ok. you ar e mostly correct. first simply remove the throttle body, simple. 3 13mm nuts. remove tps. clean body with tps removed. the solvent can wick through the shaft and destroy the tps.. ask me how i know. now set base throttle gap. 004? carbon paper is perfect. install,adjust tps. if issue persists, look at the iac valve. you should hear it moving with a stethoscope. sometimes a smack with a hammer and wd-40 will wake it up. 40 years on volvo. retired now. will take a red motor over white 100-1. enjoy your beauty. keep her up and pass it to your grandchildren. cheers.
@baronbruce83 damn. that condition could come from multiple problems. how's the idle? vacuum leaks fairly common. especially at intake gasket. check by spraying carb cleaner at any gaskets and vavuum hoses. fuel pressure issues sometimes. cracked tube between maf and throttle body fairly common. now this is all assuming the engine is sound and maintenance is somewhat okeedokee. oh another thought. disconnect the transmission cable from the throttle spool and make sure it's not binding. hope this helps. good luck.
I was hesitant to get some LED’s for my 1993 240 sedan. The reasons were the fact that LED’s shine light all over the place instead of focusing it down on the road. They can be blinding when they are coming towards you because of that. Plus the fact that the companies who make them you’re like “WTF are they?? It ain’t like the ones you’re used to like GE, Wagner, Sylvania or Phillips. I found out about two companies called Nilight and Auxito who make LED bulbs that focus the light down on the road AND they’re a LOT brighter. I use the 9004 model Nilight bulbs for the headlights. Since Nilight doesn’t make H3 bulbs for the fog lights. I use Auxito bulbs. I also got a headlight wiring harness even before I got the LED’s that connect the headlights to the battery to reduce the voltage drop through the headlight switch. I was using some high powered halogens from PIAA when I got the wiring harness and it definitely made an improvement!
Just acquired exact bike. Can you help me with what you did on hand controls? Which ones are they and what wiring was needed. Tia Sincerely Noob intruder
Surprisingly, there are no good videos I can find showing how to remove the regulator on models with power windows to replace the motor, this was helpful enough that i think I can manage it now.
K&N sells a kit for cleaning it, I do it at least once a year as part of a spring tune-up or if it starts to look dirty. I'm probabky going to do a video on my spring tune-up very soon, including cleaning and oiling the cone air filter. Stay tuned
Good job, I did the cheap upgrade for now until I get these for my 87 245. My OEM rear is a 15mm, I grabbed a OEM 19mm rear from a 92 sedan for $7 from the junk yard.
That was a really cool video. What did you do with your hot air tube hole on your air box? Since you put on the intake tube and cone filter and deleted the 1st muffler, what gas mileage increase have you noticed,, etc? Is there any downside to the mod you did?
Thanks! The hot air tube (or preheater hose) has been long gone, even the heat sheild that sits over the muffler is gone...since I removed the air box entirely; there are no holes to worry about. As for MPG, sadly my odometer needs repair so I havent calculated it with this car...but I can tell you that the same upgrade on my 87 resulted in about a 5mpg increase (depending how I drove it). But that car is also a manual and runs the LH 2.2 Ignition, while this one is automatic with LH 2.4. So...not HUGE, but slight. Honestly, the only downside that I can see is that since the intake sits lower, you might be a little more mindful of large puddles/flooded roadways? But really the intake sits higher than any level of body of water you should be crossing anyway. Keep in mind that I do live in a climate that rarely sees weather lower than 20F...if a climate goes lower, there might be a slight delay in warm up time due to the lack of preheater. Beyond that, I really havent seen any downside at all. My black 240 (87) has had this mod for years and years
That would be your opinion, and while you are entitled to your opinion, I will say that my goal was not to take too much from the original design, just a little streamlining. Several people have like it, I liked it...we are all allowed to have our own opinions
Nothing wrong with that; everyone has their own tastes. I will say that the S-pipe is definitely more fitting of the time period, fits the style better.
THESE ARE SUPER COOL/FANCY, GOOD JOB RENEGADE! Now I want some, Already took apart my car a million times for the stereo so should be fairly easy. Keep at it!
What ended up doing on my 240 was deleted the airbox thermostat, and preheat nonsense. I then routed the preheat hose through a hole on the passenger side ( its the air intake for the turbo model) and connected it to the bottom of the airbox. Then i got rid of the old snorkel and made a piece to go out of the hole but with fewer bends. Along with the center muffler delete the car pulls a lot better. Great video as always
I tried looking them up but was unable to find the site. Are they specific to the Xj or universal? Also if you have a no ink that would be greatly appreciated.
@@Kawasaki_kenny I think the company is havign issues as i cant find their site, but I found some of their products on ebay: www.ebay.com/itm/375044539513?hash=item5752658479:g:V~cAAOSwb-BkApgy Thats for the Red and black set like I have, but they do have other colors as well. As for the turn signals, I actually cut the wires and put new ends on them, just siple black to black (ground), and the other wire to the flasher wire. (Its been a while but i think the XJ600 has running ambers in the front that also flash, if so take the other wire to the the "bulb" and touch it to the wires with the signal switch on; one will flash the blub)
Normally, I would agree. I didn't use them while making this video only because the tire was still on, so since I wasn't fully under the car, I know that the suspension travel still left me enough room not to go splat. But yes, you are no wrong and most times I suggest them too
Unfortunately, I live in a "super-cold" area. So, I need -and maintain - my pre-heat hose. I need my splashguard intact, too. So, I guess I'm stuck with 7-second 0-40mph times. It may be slow, but it still beats walking! lol
Of course! Especially in a cold area like you live in. There is probably a way to run a similar setup...but you would need a pipe with another intake orifice to accept the preheater hose. The splash guard though is a different obstacle
They normally are. The first set I had had been painted black (where I have the blue) and I really like the way it looks so I did it again. But if you were looking to be fully Factory correct, the hub cap would be fully chrome
Honestly; keep driving. Witht he filter where it is, its as protected from the water as the rest of your engine and stock intake would be. I wouldnt suggest driving through any standing water that is higher than your chassis rails..but I wouldnt suggest that regardless. I ran the same setup on my 87 for about a decade, driving in rain and snow and had zero problems
I completely get that state you're in, I have undergone many losses myself in recent years, (people/ nice things). I have made a credo to remember and live by: The Battle IS The Blessing. In life we all undergo many struggles, simply being here and able to fight, whether we win or lose-- the battle itself is the meaning and purpose. And when shit gets hopeless to an extreme, I dive my nose in to a good book to drown out my negativity. Stay up Renegade.
Thanks! Im glad you enjoyed it. I sometimes worry about putting a longer video like this, with a lot of details, but if people like it, maybe I will do more
