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Gotta love the times of technology we live in. When I was a kid we had to cut every part of a lane by hand and sand and file and I was 10 when I built my first scratch built balsa plane stopped scratch building until I heard of flight test got back into scratch building and not just flying arf balsa planes when I was 17 got a laser cutter I built my self 6 years ago and now I have a massive fleet of balsa and foam board RC planes that I built and you can glue and have a plane ready to fly in one weekend using laser cutter and ca glue and 10 minute epoxy if yoy wanna builf it fast but i always like to use good old tight bond 2 when building wherw strength and flexibility is needed where ca wont work and will shatrer abd break and i like to coat all the balsa in dope to seal the wood so it will never warp over thr years from humidity whete i live. P Even though my workshop / RC plane hanger is air conditioning climate controlled I had one balsa plane the first one I built when I got back into it It was a scratch built 72-in wingspan larger version of the cadet 25 I just blew up the plans and made it bigger with my laser cutter so I love that plane was a kid I still have my original kit that I build but I wanted a bigger version but long story short I didn't coat any of the ball so what about 6 months later the wings and the fuselage started warping from all the humidity when I was out flying so now I code all my planes in dope like the covering dope you use for paper tissue guillows free flight models. But I love how we can just down load a file some nice person made or scan the templates from plans of older kits in and hit a button and the laser cutter and computer cuts all the parts for you and you can even get the laser cutter to bevel if you want I built mine to bevel but it doesn't work as good as you would think so I still do all the sanding like you normally would but I have gone from a computer file and a stack of balsa to a 54 inch wing span Cessna 150 trainer balsa plane in 9 hours one time and only cost me the price of balsa and 100 dollars in electronics if I had to go out and buy the electronics so it's cheaper then ever to build RC planes then it ever has been
Question, or two, are you designing the 3d model with an inner and an outer wall? if so, how thick are you making these walls? If you are not using inner and outer walls, what settings are you using to get some thickness in your print? Tx
Hello. The drawing is made according to the external shape. The thickness of the wall when printing comes from the nozzle, I use 1mm. In this way, I achieve a wall thickness of about 1.2mm, and later, when the fiberglass comes in, the total thickness is 1.5-1.7mm
Speaking about Halloween and Baltic states, I feel it is a foreign holiday, not ours. After getting back our freedom from occupation we started co consume western culture, holidays, trends on a high gear to get even for the time we lost under the soviets.
Great job as usual Marko! What is your secret in not getting warping with large thin parts? I have an A1 and I’m having a hard time with printing large cowls.
Hello There is no secret. I also have this worry all the time. But some tips: Try to print as thick a wall layer as possible, on Ender I use a 1mm nozzle, but if you use 0.4mm, print 2 wall layers. If you print a large part of the plane, make sure that the temperature of the room is very warm and even, and make sure that there is no draft. But that's a problem after all that :)
Ich kann mich nur den bereits geschriebenen Kommentaren anschließen. Unglaubliches geschick und ein unglaublicher sauberer Arbeitsplatz. Und dann auch die vielen schönen Maschinen um so was zu bauen.
You are an absolute legend and inspiration mate!! Love your videos!! 👌, can you share with me your settings for printing lw-pla, I'm trying to print a fuselage with 1 wall and I'm going to fibreglass the inside like you do but my walls always end up bowing and rippling, so frustrating
If you make the trailing edge out of Poplar Lite Ply, with notches for the ribs, and the ribs also notched to go over the TE, then they will align and not need the JIG. also if you make a "spar" on just the top surface, just in front of the carbon tube, you can notch it, and it will align the ribs on the front end of all the ribs. It will also give you something to glue the leading edge sheeting to, which will result in a far better airfoil LE shape. you may be able to keep the leading edge carbon tube, so as not too need any sanding, and have it be strong. the carbon tube should be the maximum size for rigidity. This is basically how wings are made for long endurance UAV's with open structure, and human powered, and solar aircraft. because it's the lowest mass for the strength and rigidity required. The cub has struts, but you could get rid of them and make a strut less cub. would be very cool actually. nice work as always! email me if you have questions. fpvreviews@gmail.com
Ever tried to get carbon and balsa apart after it’s been glued together with CA? It’s more than up to the task. Also, in this situation the glue isn’t taking any load…just stopping things from shifting around until everything else is in place.
I already asked what power it had to cut carbon fabric without any problem, he replied that the power is 130w CO2...building a CNC laser you don't have many problems with the recirculating screws like a CNC milling machine, belts are enough, the guides must definitely be linear
