Hello and welcome to my channel. These videos are just about my daily life messing around with cars. I've always been passionate about cars, owning my 1st when i was just 14, ever since then, cars have been a big part of my life. So..welcome along and i hope you enjoy my videos...
First car I ever drove was a 1985 estate Sierra I think it was a 2.0 pinto she was a L back in around 2004 2005 it was the same colour as this one brings back memories 😊😊
Could you not do an Egr clean or replace on this model engine...All vauxhall forums crying out for good clear video as your spot on..Proper common problem throwing P0401 Code...As mine showing...Cheers👍🏻
How about immobiliser locked my friend took the battery off left it for 3 days can't start it now keeps coming up and mobilise the locked what's the best thing for it
Hi mate, got an astra J 1.6 diesel and having very similar problems… how would you differentiate whether or not the issue is due to the EGR or the boost control valve? Cheers
@@Roverturbo YOUR PUTTING OUT EDITING vids you desrtve it your giving people an idea on howto repair their cars you do deserve it and i am sure many will buy you a coffee etc until it kicks off more
the abs sensor light should go out at 10 miles an hour getting one into reverse just put it in neutral and wait a second then it will go in the wife has had one for 24 years and since she had the head gasket properly done that's head skimmed ,new 3 ply gasket along with new head bolts as they stretch and bingo you are all ready to go .do not for get those engines also went into lotuses
I'm having exactly the same problem and I am also having a problem with constant regeneration on the DPF!! These engines are terrible in my opinion I've had nothing but problems with mine!! Euro6 engines seem to be far mare problematic than euro5
Hi. I ran a Freelander 1 for years. ABS light is normal, they stay on and then go off when you start driving, it is just how they are. I had 3 head gaskets in the time i owned my Freelander. It was maintained correctly and never overheated yet had the failures. If you decide to do the job then make sure the liners have not dropped and get the new design N series gasket. Have you checked for rot? The outriggers are a bad spot. Is the rear prop shaft still there? Many were removed when the viscous coupling failed making them front wheel drive only.
@@Roverturbo That's great. If the body is solid and without rot then it may be worth a punt if you can do the head gasket yourself. There is also a modification you can do to the coolant plumbing that does away with thermal shock affecting the head when the thermostat opens. Some K series owners would drill a small hole in the stat to allow some warm water to flow through before it opens.
I'd love to see the repair videos on it but you can't throw good money after bad at it. Shame really looks quite tidy. I'd sell it spares or repair you could make a couple of hundred on it.
My hot take: Honestly you should scrap it for 300 or sell it to someone for parts. It has some things going for it, it isn't rusted to bits and it doesn't look terrible. It *could* be fixed by someone determined. But probably very few such people exist.
Shame really coz there not too bad of a run about ! I had an 04 plate and it went less than 50k on it managed to trade it in . I think it’s probably best to send it to scarp yard heaven and get ur £50 notes
Growing up I never ever thought anything of these cars because I didn’t think a lot of many Rovers. Now I realise what an excellent bit of kit these are. It must be worth a lot. It should be 3D scanned it’s that rare and special. Want to see more of this car!
I thought you said initially it had 44 miles and 58 on eco mode after a full charge , and i have learned its better to only charge upto 80% in order to get longer life out of the battery.
I’m not sure what your asking? The battery is shot, so the charge varies, due to length of charge, temperature etc. yes it’s said that 80% charge is better for lithium, but this point it’s too late for this one.
Hi Robert. Thanks for posting this. I have an Astra K with 98000 miles that occasionally flags a P0401 code. I clear the code and it stays away for some time but I will need to to something more than cleaning the MAP sensor periodically. As you have shown I too think the culprit is the EGR cooler and a good clean is probably on the horizon! Does this job require any specific tooling, is there anything to watch out for, new seals etc or any recommend removal steps? Any pointers gratefully received.
No special tools, fairly easy, just time consuming. I put mine in a tub of pure tfr for days, periodically removing flushing through and compressed air, then back in. I had a spare, so took my time.
Hi Robert. I have the 1.6 DTL. I avoided this build-up by removing the oil gases from the camshaft cover to a decanter or oil collection tank and placing a metal gasket at the EGR inlet, in which we reduce the passage of exhaust gases to a hole of only 8 mm in diameter. There is no DTC fault, the engine gains at low revs, and no part of the intake system gets dirty with oil and carbon. If we leave the system AS STANDARD, the sum of oil and carbon will sooner or later clog the EGR, the cooler, the electric air passage butterfly and the MAP sensor as we see in your video. After 9 years and 198,000 km I have hardly any dirt (from time to time) I remove and observe the turbo inlet pipe, the throttle valve inlet, and the MAP sensor and it is almost clean. It is worth it Robert. Greetings
I have the exact same problem on my astra k , bought a 2nd hand cooler to clean then I will swap over the ends . Mines done 90k miles. I did fit a catch can a couple of years ago but took it off. I took the rocker cover to turbo rubber pipe off and rerouted it through the catch can and back to the turbo again. Its doable with alloy fittings and silicone hoses. It does trap a fair bit of water vapour and oil .
Mr Muscle did a brilliant job on cleaning up my varibale valve turbo on my mk4 golf. Re your DPF, it may have cleaned it but, why was it not cleaning itself is the question. If it fills up again and doesn't burn off when at the set limit there's an underlying issue. What you've done is a good idea and certainly novel but you really need to follow-up with an immediate investigation of why it was full and not self regulating.
If the car didn't came with alarm, can I buy the OEM module and install it, and program de ecu directly, short way.. or I need to go the long way with more parts and change the wiring and other things... Or not.. and it doesn't work at all? And where do I find the his spot to install?
I found that I have the same gear box on my mondeo mk4 , thanks for the video. The mondeo videoes i have looked at is totally different and I might also get another oil as the one I have is spec Ford WSS-M2C924-A but maybe not if I am lucky. Thx
