Welcome to my channel where I'll share my knowledge on DIY home projects (all levels of experience), engineering, woodworking, tools, building, repairing, appliances, and everything else in and around the house.
My videos will be geared towards DIYers who may not have the same tools as the professionals, and may prefer to work at a slower pace with higher quality (since you're working on your own home!)
I strive to work on all projects myself and complete them with high quality and meeting code, while eliminating labor cost.
Remember to like and SUBSCRIBE! I have a lot of videos and tips to share.
I am finishing the inside of a prebuilt shed. I am insulating the walls and ceiling with rockwool. I had planned on using Membrain instead of vapor barrier. It will mostly be an unconditioned shed. I may use some sort of a portable heater in the more intense cold spells. After reading some comments, it sounds like I could end up with condensation, which is what I am trying to avoid. Did I misunderstand that?.
If you will sometimes be heating it, then use the membrain between the drywall and insulation. And yes worst case, and assuming no continuous layer of insulation, if it is cold inside the shed, humid outside, and hot sun against the siding, it will drive moisture through (mostly near the cold uninsulated studs) and condense on whatever surface is there. You would rather it condense on a vapor retarder than on drywall paper. The moisture will dry out and be okay. The rockwool insulation is good for preventing mold too. For a building that will never be heated, supposedly can go without it, especially a garage that will have a ton of moisture getting in anyway.
The button/cap is just plastic plated thinly with chrome to conduct the current when the button is pressed. The chrome wore off at the battery contact inside my button, so I ran a wire from the spring inside the tube to the outside end of the battery and made contact for ignition. Since this worked, I cut parts of the button and incorporated the wire into the cap. See if this works.
@@brandonvelasquez3530 yes you can. There's no need to use the overflow safety switch if you don't want to, or if you get the pump model without the switch.
@@czwhat328 there's a lot of strategically placed weather stripping on these windows. I'm planning a video review of this brand and I'll make a short showing the weather stripping locations.
@@kellydunn1516 yes here are the two products Tuck tape: www.amazon.com/Tuck-Tape-Construction-Grade-Sheathing/dp/B01N6L7FK0/ Certainteed membrain: www.amazon.com/CertainTeed-902008-Retarder-Insulation-remodeling/dp/B01MS4O729/
@@kellydunn1516 and the caulking I used is here: www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Advanced-Silicone-2-Caulk-10-1-oz-Window-and-Door-Sealant-White-2811093/317803780
Note, if it's too difficult to pump air in, turn on the beverage faucet while you pump. It will push some water out but will make it very easy to add air.
@@realhouseDIY perfect thank you! Subscribed. So basically, the float safety switch just interrupts (or completes, depending on how it's wired) the circuit between the positive and negative leads of the ac adapter. I assume there's no problem using a small ac adapter and hiding everything in a project box? Maybe need a fan?
@@jdr03272 yeah it supports a wide voltage range for switching the relay, but just don't use 120v AC through the dehumidifier safety switch. The manual for the vcma-15uls states to use low voltage for the safety switch.
@@Jonathan-gp8dt ASO is a separate piece clipped in with 4 tubes connected. There's also a check valve which is part of the housing for the RO membrane filter
@@realhouseDIYthanks for the quick response. Im not sure if my plumber installed that properly. Can this piece be missed? Water flows fine and its filtering.
@@Jonathan-gp8dt manual says if input water pressure is below 30 psi, then the valve won't shutoff. Otherwise a bad check valve or ASO valve. Do you have good water pressure and the input valve is open enough? Also I just added a short on my channel where I point them out.
Can I drain the dehumidifier into the HVAC Little Giant pump already there by tapping into the relay wires already there from the HVAC and then take the relay wires tapped into the relay power strip?
I'm having trouble in knowing whether I set this up properly... I've attached my dehumidifier to the Normally ON plug. My pump came with two safety wires that plug into the pump and I’ve connected them into the relay terminal. But I see in your video you’ve attached a separate standalone DC plug to the relay terminal. I have not done that and rather instead just attached the two safety wires from my pump into the relay terminal. Can you please explain what purpose it serves to attach a standalone DC plug to the positive hook up in the relay terminal? I’ve been scratching my head on this for a few days now and hope to get everything working soon and I really don’t know what I’m doing. Thanks!
@@zf291463 if you're using the same relay I used, it requires a voltage to switch it. Any low voltage DC adapter will work. The overflow safety switch in the condensate pump is just a switch and not connected to any power source.
@@realhouseDIY Thanks - i set it up the way you showed it; i'm not using a Little Giant pump though - it was a cleartide. I tried to activate the high water alarm in the cleartide but it did not turn off the dehumidifier when it was triggered. i don't know....
@@Deadbeatcow make sure to watch the linked video about reattaching the inner spring clamp. Should give a good idea on difficulty level. The rest is easy enough.
@@kelisurfs247 Here is a location to download. I'll add it to the description as well: awc.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/AWC-DCA62012-DeckGuide-1405.pdf
ok you just saved my bacon (HA)! I have 4 burners which includes a sear station. Our grill was bought in 2013 so it is 11 years old but in good shape. I live in Chicago, and grill in the winter even if it is -10 degrees. So we use the grill frequently. However, I had two burners that had gas but would not light. So this had to be an igniter issue. I took your adive and brushed off the surface near the probe on both burners. Guess what, that solve the problem!!
Very helpful video. I took my Hoover Windtunnel (Model UH70120) apart and saw the exact same burn mark on the fuse assembly. I plan to replace the fuse assembly but unsure where to buy the 5-pack ceramic fast-blow fuse you showed in the video? May I ask where you purchased from? Thanks again.
@@georgearpajian4499 I think I had them as an extra part from something. But basically just take any type of crimp connector, remove the insulator, and cut off the extra spade, ring, etc so you just have the small round piece. Or maybe just use a butt connector.
@@krb365 I used Microsoft Visio since I had an old version of it, and didn't want to buy something new. It wasn't too bad. A couple annoying aspects where I had trouble snapping shapes together or couldn't get exact sizes or distances.
@@Xiomaro01 yeah, geared toward new folks. I can tell you the first one I opened many years ago, half of it came out the bottom! And I still sometimes forget 😂
@@jeffkahsen6652 I feel for you... The spring had just one job! You could probably just reconnect it with a length of wire and twist it tight. Otherwise the new spring clamp is around $20-30
👍 I keep an old bike spoke with a loop bent on the top in my bag because I forget to pierce the tube. Plus the one on the side gets the shit everywhere. 🤙
@@OvelNick The point of the video is to help a new homeowner who might be caulking and painting for the first time and doesn't know why the caulking tube isn't working, then they search and find this video. So really all those comments are helpful to someone out there.
@@J98LEE did you watch the entire short? Cut the cap, but then there's also a seal to break below the cap. Easy to forget that one, at least for me sometimes
have you noticed that their concept (in the manual) of NO and NC are backwards from industry standard? shouldn't "normally open" mean that when the system is functioning correctly the circuit is OPEN (broken) and when the switch is triggered the circuit closes (completes)
Hello! I have the exact same leak in the same spot. Do I need to replace the whole 3 valve assembly (part 5220fr2009f ) or is there a way to just replace the one that is leaking?
@@savannahlee8204 no, replace the assembly. You can assume if one failed then the other two and even the single hot water one may be getting close to failing. I replaced both assemblies at the same time for $24. Check out my video where I replace these: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TmAaZjNqfck.html
I’m still severely struggling with this. I’m not taking my panels off either. When I’m going around the inside of the rim, when I get to the last couple inches of the gasket, the slack from the gasket will not push down into the lip. It’s as if the gasket is an inch too big but it’s the correct model so I’m really struggling.
Same all I did was clean it, is the gasket supposed to sit on the plastic lip or right underneath it? And is the clamp supposed to be on the lip or right next to it?
@@Gravediggers_13 there's a groove for the clamp to fit into. And an even larger groove that fits around both sides of the outer drum. Maybe look at the cutouts on the gasket used for water drainage into the drum. Those cutouts get positioned on the inside edge of the outer drum.
@@danm396 this part comes standard with the Provia replacement windows (and similar for some other replacement vinyl windows). You could special order from a local window and door supplier.
This is an excellent video. I have a new DeWalt planer. Before trying it out I needed a practical review of what to do. This video was perfect. Thanks so much. Will look forward to others.
