Stuff I like. RC cars, aircraft, wood working, welding, cutting grass, fixing my car, fixing anything, digging through dumpsters. Yea I am a strange dude.
Thank you Tony for your valuable video on this subject. Started this job tonight. Mine is running worse and worse over last year, still no check engine though. Wondering if i have corroded coil or plug causing it. Anyway bought 6 rm stator coils and ngk plugs. Not messing about once in there. Packed up for the night at point of removing the secondary air tube. Started tug on it with tyre spoons. Been scouring the internet for tips, not many around. Tempted to go at it with wd40 and hot air gun, before trying again?! Also cannot work out how to remove the radiator cap, but wondering now if you need to loosen it then push down and turn to undo it the rest of the way? Might allow the stop position in the cap to clear the plastic interference? Interesting job this one.
Dont give up on the radiator cap. It is very difficult to remove but iwill come off. Spray the air tube with a good penetrating lube like PB Blaster and work carefully. Best of luck to you and thanks for watching.
Fill the reservoir, open the cap just to brake the seal and the coolant will go in, once filled and just tighten the radiator cap back and refill the reservoir.
Yes you are absolutely correct. If the steel is not pure stainless it will have a percentage of ferrous metal and will be attracted to a magnet. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@tonycarthan6425 Yes, and there is SS made that way. Examples are 409, 430 and 439 stainless steel. Best way to test if it is stainless is to use a drop of copper sulfite, it should discolor the steel within a minute. It does not discolor the ferrite stainless, but do discolor the fake stainless.
Yes I have been doing it every other engine oil change. I extended the PTU vent so that it is in the engine compartment. This makes filling the unit much easier. So far the fluid has been clean and no heavy debris are on the magnetic drain plug. Thanks for watching commenting and subscribing.
I believe that your biggest problem is you are using the demounting/mounting bar backwards(reversed?). The grab handle should be facing away from the center bar allowing you to grab it and help pull around when mounting. Also, put a strap through the wheel and around one of the 3 base bars to keep your wheel from spinning. NoMar says you don't need it, but I think it helps greatly. Lastly, mounting to your van is great for space savings but your rear shocks were bouncing as you applied pressure, thus losing some of your force. Put a jack under the rear (hitch) to stop it's bouncing. Just some ideas to try! Great video!!
Thanks for watching. The jack idea is great and I will try it next time. As much as I watched the video during editing I never noticed the bouncing till you pointed it out. I will take the handle orentation and other suggestions on board. It gets easier everytime I use it. 🙂
Thanks Tony. Spraying some lube on the rubber parts of that air tube did the trick! My wife thinks we're related after she heard your commentary! 😂 Hope the RM Stator coils last longer than the OEM
Notice "no mar" has comments turned off for their videos, they don't want the truth out about how bad this is for most tires. It might be OK for track days but not for most touring bikes.
This is the 1st changer like this I have owned. It has worked well for me and I get better everytime I use it. There are many different systems on the market I could have chosen. I like this one and am satisfied with the $$$ I spent. I am on my 7th change and in my opinion it has paid for itself. I even look forward to the next use. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thanks Tony, mine was worn the exact same way. I used a T head to replace the OE fitting and everything worked perfect! I just found a random brass T head and that did the job. I hopefully routed the lines to minimize vibrations. Thanks for your service!
I have a 2013 taurus the transmission is acting like it low of fluid but its not the tran smission man said the filter is stoped up it has 175,000 miles fluid changed every 30,000 miles 2.0 ecobost .
Hi Tony, Just got a 2012 K1600 GT. Both shocks seems to be dead, it is like riding on Gravel the entire time. Front mirrors and panel vibrates and shakes, front end dives when I brake. The rear moves when I make adjustments to the ESA but I do feel every pot and hole in the road. Bike has 90K miles on it. So I will need to replace both shocks, what a nightmare. Not sure where you live as I could use the help. Thanks, great videa.
Sounds like a big job. With that many miles I would also be looking at ball joints, swing arm bushings, wheel bearings ect. If you are going in that deep may as well get everything and do a deep cleaning and visual recon on everything. Good luck. I am in virginia.
Well ya know honestly changing my own tires now with my very own new No Mar HD Classic is not quite as much fun as riding my 2023 Yama MT-10 in the Twisties (the bike is a BEAST! Soooo much fun but it just EATS tires!) There is something gratifying about the challenge ya know? It sort of like beating another rider except I am beating a crafty ubber hoop instead... I mean it feels good honestly in a very strange way so maybe it is worth the money? I mean its not misearable....no registration or insurance either or fuel oil and maintence to speak of! Fairly safe too I recon idk what do you think there Tony....kinda of Zennish?
I must compliment your writing skill. You express the feeling of conkering that elastic doughnut better than anyone. I am up to seven changes with the No-Mar HD, and it gets better everytime. The economy and convenience of "DIY" provide a wonderful since of satisfaction. My K1600GT does not consume rubber like the MT but gives the same joy when I ride it. On my way to the Dragon Tail in two weeks to get some more fun out of our sport. Thanks so much for watching and commenting.
@@tonycarthan6425 I got 600miles to the wearbar on the OEM rear and 1500 on the front and then 900 on the Pirelli that replaced it ,,,lol tires are killing me! My Sport Touring bike just turned 10k miles and the third set of tires are totally toast so an average of 3300 per set while everyone else seems to boast 10k....then again I am in so california and almost all mile miles are in the twisties....twistes eat tires while mostly straight highway does not
Most of Virginia where I am located is flat. Have to ride several hours to find twisted roads. You are lucky to have such beautiful areas to ride. However you can keep the smog and extra EPA equipment they muffle your bikes with.😁
BTW the No Mar Classic HD is NOT the base model! There are two cheaper models at least and I think only one higher up than the classic HD and that one is for professionals I recon
What we had here? Was a FAILURE to read the destructions...which you can only find ONLINE cause No Mar FAILED to simply print the block orientation scheme out which is easy once you hear it and notice the labels and watch the video!....even though they charged us up the A$$ for these units! Simply look at the label and put the blocks in the right hole like for 16-19 then use the longest side for 16 the next longest for 17 etc...4 rim sizes four block sizes duhh
Don’t worry about getting some of their lube on the tire bead. Doing so makes the mounting much easier and once that stuff dries, it nearly disappears and your tire will not spin on the rim. If you are really worried about it, once the tire is on the rim, take a damp rag and clean the vegetable lube off of the tire bead and rim before you seat the beads. However, I have changed more than 20 tires now with my NoMar and I lube the bead well and have had zero problems and I don’t bother to wipe off excess lube until I am done and the tire is aired up. When you dismount the tire, you will find that the lube you put on the drop center and one the tire has basically disappeared.
I see you got the device at the right height when you did the front tire, but you are still placing the dismount bar in the tire at the wrong place. Need to watch their videos again as it makes things easier if you follow their process precisely.
The clamps are a good idea, but watch the NoMar video on mounting a Gold Wing rear tire. They show using wood blocks to hold the bead in the drop center and this makes a huge difference. I never found Yellow Thing very helpful, but four 3/4” pine blocks spaced about 6” apart following the mount bar as you slowly work it around the rim make a huge difference. My blocks were cut from a 1x4 pine board and are about 2” wide so basically, using actual dimensions, they are 3/4” x 3-1/2” x 2” and work great.
It is much easier if you mount the machine at the proper height. You have it at least a foot too high. Lower it where it should be and follow the procedure they show in their videos and life will become much better.
@@tonycarthan6425 I did watch the entire video. I just comment along the way so I don’t forget stuff. I also just watched your mount video. I have an older model NoMar and mine doesn’t break down as easily as yours so storage is a pain. I haven’t figured a good way to mount mine for storage like you did.
Hello Tony, how are you doing? My name is Eric a.k.a. Hollywood I am a new member of the Bmw family. I have a 20 12 1600 GTL I just purchased this in a month ago I love the bike I have another bike which is on the boulevard M109. It’s a bad ass bike but as far as long-distance riding my wife and I enjoy the BMW, I’m not much of a mechanic so I have to rely on bringing the bike to my mechanic but there are only certain things he can do. He doesn’t have the computers because he doesn’t work on BMWs a lot. The check engine light has come on on several occasions, my question is do I only have to replace the one coil that’s going bad if I get the one that you had or do I need to replace all six it is a 2012 and I’m trying to make it as new as possible and it only has 45,000 miles
Hello Eric. You must first identify why your check engine indicator is coming on. To do that you need a scanner or take it to a dealer who can scan a BMW. Then you can decide how to repair the bike. As far as the coil replacement, if that is your problem, you should do all six due to the amount of work involved. If I have another failure I will replace all six. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
Thank you, Tony! Excellent information. I know you must have considered replacing all six coils simultaneously. I have heard that once one goes they all go sooner rather than much later. Your thought on that would be appreciated.
To date the bike has 36434 miles. Have not experienced another failure. If I do have one, and it is not the RMSTATOR coil, I will replace all six. Due to the $$ I think this is a good test of the product. Only time will tell.
