I can’t remove my transmission cooler lines with the tool. I pull the line back and try to put the tool in and it’s not going in. There is rust so maybe that’s causing the problem.
I know it’s way late but I just seen this and it’s way easier to just remove the fan housing off the radiator, take about a minute to do that then you have plenty of room
People seem to have good experiences with Accords but my diesel I-dtec 2010 EX is without doubt one of the worst cars I've ever owned. DPF nightmares, brakes, linkages. Never buy a diesel version
You should have just taken the boot off the inner tie rod and remove from the unrusted part. You were still going to have to separate that ball joint anyway but do that first and twist off from inner tie rod. Worse case you could cut it off. No need in fighting stuff that you don't intend to reuse.😊
Poor design that they rust and leak. Mine doing the same thing and fixing this week. I contemplated coating them with a plasticoat or wheel well spray to make them rust proof.
I changed my fuel pump on my 07 Camry didn’t work maybe a bad pump tried 2 different new ones still wouldn’t start. Towed to a shop they said it wasn’t getting spark or fuel so it needed a fuel pump which they can do for 1200 I said no thank you
Those with limited experience should never and I mean never talk about how easy a job is to do. I have almost 50 years experience in my trade and it has taken me a long time to learn to keep that advise to myself. And I am a master lever mechanic.
I was having the same exact issues as you I had the same engine code as well, I have the same exact car. I just changed mine this evening and drove about half hour home with no issues. I’m hoping this solved my problem. Thank you very much!
In the North American 5th gen ( 2002-2006 ) Camry , there was suspension design change . From what I learned, the design change occured in Camry's manufactured date 08/2002 onward.
I had this problem on a 2003 Honda Accord ex v6 AT. Symptoms were Radio, and Dashlights would turn off while driving followed by car stalling for a split second. Headlights would dim or get brighter on acceleration and deceleration like the car is starving for electrons from the alternator (or serpentine belt loose?). The code came up P0685 on a blue driver. The solution so far: 1) Checked the relays under the driver's side. EI main, IG coil, and since I was there Fuel pump. Took them off. Cut a regular house light wire. Somewhat held the relay end to the battery under the hood (Caution the relay is not protected anymore from the fuse box). I heard the relay click, concluding relay was good. 2) Cleaned the grounding wire surfaces around the engine bay from the black and white pictures I referenced on forums. The reference below is the Driver side/Passenger side instead of left and right. Battery negative to Car wall (driver side), Car wall to Transmission (under air filter driver side), Battery positive harness traced to the throttle body (2 small wires)(driver side engine side), Battery positive harness traced to a bracket power steering pump/injectors (Passenger side on the engine), Motor mount to car wall Passenger side near the serpentine belt. 3) After cleaning the grounds and checking the voltage on the battery and alternator the code is gone. The battery grounds are referenced (C101, C102 etc on forums) 4) I got another code for the throttle body P2101. That was because I took the air filter housing off to get at the Grounded wire transmission to the car body. I probably should have cleaned the throttle body but didn't. I'll clean it next weekend. hopefully, that will get rid of the code.
I have same check engine P0171 ( system too lean in bank 1). my car toyota camry 2009 LE 2.4 Ltr. I have replaced with new fuel pump, new 02 sensor upstream,downstream both, new mass air flow sensor, new all 4 spark plug. but still the issue not resolved. while I run car for 10 to 20 minutes the error show up. I reset the check engine by OBD machine. but still after running 15 -20 minutes show up again. what else I can do now to resolve permanently?
Hi everyone. Does anyone have had an issue with aftermarket pump, I bought mine from AITOZONE , and had to replaced it twice, one lasted 3 months the other 8 months . Wondering if is quality of the pump or something else. Thanks. Whoever can help me.
I just looked at the diagram ran the belts but left the belt off the ilder tensioner pulley until i put the socket on it to pull it back and slide the belt on was pretty easy once you figure the diagram out
Just swapped the upper/lower hoses to fix a leak. Drove for 20 minutes to see if I solved the overheating issue, and that upper intake snapped off just like this. Glad i'm not the only one. Thanks for the vid!
Hello William Kincaid. Your explanation of how to replace the Purge Valve Solenoid is very easy to understand. I followed your directions and it was very easy to replace the faulty purge valve on my 2011 Ford Fusion se. Furthermore, when I first noticed the Check Engine Light, I drove my Ford Fusion to an Oriellys Auto Parts Store. I asked to use their Code Reader to get the error code, and yes it was P1450. My Fusion had three error code readings, all of which were P1450, and one of them was permanent (meaning I would need to complete a drive cycle to remove). So after I purchased & replaced the faulty purge valve, I again used the Code Reader to remove two of the three error codes, and to also turn off the check engine light. Then I followed online instructions for how to complete a drive cycle. After I drove a complete drive cycle, I returned to the same Oriellys to once again use their Code Reader, and after a complete drive cycle, the permanent error code had removed itself. Thank you.
question once i put the new coolant line back on the quick disconnect side won’t snap back on i got it on but when i pull to make sure it’s secure it falls back off
Really excellent video instructions with precise audio that does not wander off into non-essentials. The only real Big Pain with this job -- even if you're reasonably experienced -- is getting the old ball joints off the end of the control arm. It's a nightmare and if you haven't done other, easier ball joint removals before you might find it nearly impossible. Search around RU-vid to see how others have managed it, there are several different techiques you can try (none of them easy or quick). As the CCNut says, "that's just the way it is."
Tip for removal of lines from the radiator. Use snips to cut the old line off near the flare nut so you can put a 5/8 socket on the nut. This will help for the removal part.
@@bakamonogatari1826 I partially removed my radiator fan due to gen 2 2012 Ford Fusion hoses and lines being right next to the fan notches. I had enough room to get the job done. Ford designs are poor so they force you to go to a mechanic.
Did you loosen all of the motor mounts at once, or can you do one side at a time? Any problems with any lines/cables going to the motor getting tugged when lifting it?
You really should to do one side at a time because you have to raise the engine by jacking up on the transaxle housing on the driver side and the oil pan (carefully) on the passenger side. If you had two jacks you could do both at once -- which is what I did, but given all the heavy-duty un-torquing and hammer-banging you have to do to make this job happen, that's not the safest way to go. Also since I removed the engine mounts on both ides at the same time the engine actually *shifted* a bit out of alignment so when it came time to put the new mountss in it was a hassle to get everything to line up properly. If there is a next time (I really hope not!) I would only do one side at a time.
Unless you're long-time buddies with a good shop, most will want at least $1,000 to do both sides properly. I've been working on cars for 40 years and this was the worst job I've ever tackled. Pulling transmissions, engined, differentials are all much easier. Since I had to pay $200 bucks to get quality parts for the job, I ended up almost wishing that I *had* paid someone else the other $800 to do it. But of course, if you do that, you never know for sure how well the job was done.
@@jrshumach6747 Oh wow, I did this job and it is not bad. Yes it takes time but not as bad as you make it sound. It is worth saving $1500.00. I did this when I did a complete front end suspension rebuild. Do it with everything off. Strut, knuckle, tie rod brakes…not technically hard just time.
