Guitar strings work very well, put a slight bend about 2" from the end and spin the jet against it with your fingers, slide it in and out and sight through it till it appears clear. Soak them in a small cup with a bit of carb cleaner in it before and after as many times as needed. Hit up someone for some used guitar strings.
You did a most excellent job with this bike review. Very detailed and well explained. I had two issues with my 24’ beta 300 race. 1- it would not settle in corners whatsoever and would want to stand up or go wide every time. Also in rutted corners (harescramble) the bike would climb out of the ruts terribly. Had suspension revalved with different pressure spring and it’s perfect now. The second issue was the starter button bronze contact quit contacting. I had to file it and apply anti oxidant conductive grease (the opposite of dialectic) grease and it’s been good since.
I dont understand why People put different spare parts on the bike like the second starter.. In this case you should also take a spare pipe, tire,... With you 😂
@Maxpayn7895 Yeah, it's a balance of what will leave you sitting and added weight. But I will say, nothing worse than going from 1st to DNF because of a bike failure. Especially if it's a part that you could have easily carried.
@easternyellowjacket276 correct. The 125X was such a cool bike. But as my interest gravitated to riding and racing hard enduro exclusively, I've found that a trials bike was truly the ultimate trainer. It's been a few years, and I will say I chose correctly. There isn't a top rider that doesn't ride trials.
@@xlr8offroad I bought an Electric Motion trials to train so I could set up a circuit to practice in my yard. It transformed my riding skills for my 450. Be that as it may, I've thought of grabbing a 125x because they looks so fun.
I race sprint enduros and harescrambles. I may just have to do this clutch mod to my beta. So far been a awsome bike. Much better then my 23 300.sherco, at least for me.
@@woodsrider117 I ran a Ptech skid plate/guard combo on my 2017 300RR for a few years. As you can probably tell, that guard gets used in hard enduros, but you don't see them a lot. There are a couple of reasons. 1. They vastly widen the front of the bike. In rock guardens and pinch type obstacles, they can be a real hindrance. 2. They collect mud. This can be combatted with a front screen, but a valid effort has to be made to keep mud out of them. 3. As you alluded, the weight adds up from mud, and when we race 6 hours, we want to enjoy as much of the light chassis as possible. The screeen helps with the bud but doesn't reduce clearance. For trail riding and amatuer riders, it's a great piece to start with. But as you will see, the higher class folks move away from them because of the stated downsides.
@vincedaugherty9687 There is a reason SmartCarb uses the DF metering rod (fatter bottom) and a richer base setting compared to all previous single plug designs that use an AQ-11. Additionally, there is no difference in stock Keihin jetting configuration from Beta between the 23 single & 24 dual plug bikes, which I find interesting.... My 24's Keihin had some rich running issues stock, which came down to a wrong needle clip position from the factory and possibly a stuck float. I ran into having too much unburnt fuel in the engine, which fouled plugs every time there was a tip over as the fuel came down on the plugs in the head. Once getting that cleaned up, I have had no issues with the Keihin or the SC2 on this bike. The smooth off idle torque of this engine is different. It's different than my 17 with an S3 head. It's different than the 23 Race Editions I've ridden. Trials riders spend countless hours tuning initial torque feel from off idle conditions. This is where I feel the 24 shines. This is also where the pro hard enduro rider that rode my bike felt the difference from his 24 Husky. "It's a little more buzzy, but the low end is so smooth. Stronger down low than my bike. " It's possible that the dual plug design is more sensitive to the jetting. Additionally, I moved away from the expensive irridium and switched to a CR7EB with the same great results. It's about half the cost of the rare OEM plug. It's worth noting that I only ride and race hard enduro. I'm a top 40+ B rider, and I'm definitely not fast. For my uses, the dual plug is excellent. My .002. I will be making a video on this for sure.
Why didn't you go with the skid plate from Ptech? It has a piece of heavy duty plastic riveted to the bottom. I bought a 2018 300 RE and it had one on it with a pipe guard. I took it off because it weighed almost 5lbs. I left it off because I don't do hard enduro and didn't see the need to have it on.
I ran a Ptech on my 2017 300RR for a few years. As you can probably tell, that guard gets used in hard enduros, but you don't see them a lot. There are a couple of reasons. 1. They vastly widen the front of the bike. In rock guardens and pinch type obstacles, they can be a real hindrance. 2. They collect mud. This can be combatted with a front screen, but a valid effort has to be made to keep mud out of them. 3. As you alluded, the weight adds up, and when we race 6 hours, we want to enjoy as much of the light chassis as possible. For trail riding and amatuer riders, it's a great piece to start with. But as you will see, the higher class folks move away from them because of the stated downsides.
Nice riding man! You were in front of me through that first bottle neck where the tape was ripped. I did way better at locked & locked. Got an hour of sleep For tlr Friday night. Finished it in a little over 2 hours. Rode terrible lol. Still had fun. Shotgun I made it almost to the 4th check point and I had a mechanical. I felt great for that.
I haven't tried, but I would say not a bigger person. A child or small female, possibly. The runners will limit leg room. If a passenger is key, go with the smaller tail rack.
Thank you very much for this excellent review, you’ve shared with us very important information about this product. I own a 2022 beta 300 RR, and I’m having the donation or knocking issues. Do you think that the smart carb will help with this issue?
Possibly. Detonation and what some people call pipe bang can be caused by fueling. If there is a knock in the low rim, that can be piston slap. Beta's have a little rattle down low that most owners identify as normal. My 17 had it and my 24, but unless it's very pronounced, I wouldn't worry too much. Detonation can also be caused by fuel quality. What octane are you running, and what oil mix? I run 93 ethanol free at 50:1 with a low flashpoint oil like Motul 710 or Liquimoly. Additionally, you could try cutting a tank with Race gas to see if it removes the symptom. If it does, you will know for sure it is your gas quality and not the actual fuel delivery via carb. Next question would be, have you gone through your Keihin and jetted to your location? If not, double-check all the jets and needle clip position. Mine was off 1 clip position from the factory. Yes, the Smart Carb fueling down low is better to me. It's smoother off the bottom and cleans up some of the surge that comes from the Keihin transitioning through circuits. Some people say it takes the "hit" but it really just changes the throttle progression. Hope this helps
a very nice video and a great build. I have a 2013 and I'm thinking to put the same bars and on mine that you had on your wife's. How did she like them after she rode for a while?
Nice build. You might want to put your Acerbis front pull under your triple. That way it does not slip up when using it. you can use a zip tie to keep it secured in place (to keep it from slipping down when riding).
Honestly, I have used the strap both ways. I like it on top of the lower triple for a few reasons. 1. The length of the strap remains the same, which is easier to grab when needed. The loops don't sag or work their way down even when it has a zip tie. 2. They stay clean. Small, butit does keep them from rotting over time as the material gets continuously saturated. 3. I have never had an issue with them sliding up when running an MX plate. Because my headlight is removed, there are no rubber ring straps to hold it in place. Frankly, the pull strap could slide to the top, and it wouldn't hurt a thing. I appreciate the input and channel support!!
@@xlr8offroad Right on. Main thing is it's just how you like it. Very impressed with your setup I'm still rolling on my 2012 498 pushing 400 hours. These are very reliable bikes.
So I did order a cycle rack for my 2018 and I really do like it. Thanks for the link on that. I also upgraded to a 16 tooth front sprocket, made the bike act the heck of a lot more like a street bike, which is my primary source of driving. Really took the vibration out of the handlebars at 55.
@@xlr8offroad no prob man. Good vid. I have a ‘23 250RR I’m getting ready to remove OI in cause the light came on, but still smoked and ran normal, just want it out of the equation
Beta replaced my swingarm. Bad casting. Cross sectional Wall thickness on these is too thin. Not sure if its bad design or poor quality casting. Fabricated build swingarms are far better in my opinion at the expense of a little more weight. If you buy beta you get these shitty swingarms and lousy suspension.
That's wild! I will say, my 2024 does seem more refined. Whether it withstands a couple hundred hours of hard enduro will determine alot...lol. Cheers!
Unfortunately, it isn't. I have an assortment of different sized shrink tubes. This is simply 2 spade connectors with shrink tube on each one plugged into each spade. Then, I took a larger shrink tube and pushed it onto the outer base of the sensor. I have been on the search for an actual plug but have yet to find one. If I do, I'll likely do a vid or a short on it.
Great and. detailed video. Very good information!I bought a 2022 300RR. Have you had detonation on your 300's? Do you think is a jetting issue? Can a compression head or a Smartcarb help me with this issue? I appreciate your help!
I've only experienced a slight pinging on my 2017 when using the S3 high compression head. This is with 93 octane ethanol free. The smart carb definitely seems to smooth out the engine. Pre-detonation can occur from too low octane fuel, too high compression, too much ignition advance and too high cylinder temps. I would recommend cutting your mixture with some race gas to see if it cures the symptom. If it does, you can adjust accordingly. If it doesn't, look into your jetting. Ensure your carb is clean & floats adjusted to 7mm per the manual. The factory jetting chart is pretty close.
Unless there is a technique I don't know, bump starting in a gully with rocks the size of my coach isn't going to be easy. On that note, the bike is getting a kick starter as a backup, too. 😉
@jasonyates8796 agreed. I forgot to add it to the discussion as a "future mod." My 17 had a kick start, and it saved me a few times. I'm glad Beta still gives the option for the kit.
Interesting info on the clutch, I ll have to try that! But these clutches are so easy and smooth already, especially if you had a bike with a cable clutch before. Have you seen the Polisport rotor guard? It’s a lot more rigid than the acerbis and you can get fork shoe protection as well.
Thanks for the input! The standard clutch definitely isn't terrible. For me, I need as much control and consistency as possible for a 6 hour hard enduro at race pace. As for the Polisport, I'll definitely check it out! With the fork shoe guard, Acerbis makes them but they didn't live long. I had to trim away material to get them to fit with the rotor guard and the axle handle on the other side...lol.
@@xlr8offroad oh I agree standard is good but if it can get better I’m gonna try it. I don’t get to ride enough to be in tip top physical shape. I think a lot of the guards require trimming for that axle pull. Are you planning to race the Tennessee knockout?
@@AdamCoffey828 yeahhh, I'll be back better and stronger 💪! My goal is to win 40+ A for the East series. Tall order, but I'm ready to put in some work!!
Yepper! I'll be behind ya in 40+B. Gotta make that top 130 for the Main event! I plan to start a movement for them to just let everyone race the Main. Ya know, like pretty much EVERY other race in the series.
@@xlr8offroad awesome! I’ll be 40 in 2 years or Else I’d be rite there with you. I’m not prepared as usual but I do better every year and I have fun so 🤷🏻♂️. I’m running the qualifier and LCQ but not the TLR main even if I made it. Saving myself for Monday haha. See you there man!
Love the video very informative. I have a 250 Beta. I would like to go to the softer clutch Spring Setting you said you had no clutch slipping issues. Saturday 8:01.
Thanks! Correct, no slipping to date. This is after about 25 hours of riding and 2 hard enduro races with plenty of serious hill climbs. It's super easy.. Lean the bike on its side, remove clutch cover, loosen clutch bolts, and rotate "ring" so the bolts are now in position 1 (soft) from position 2 (standard). You will definitely feel a lighter pull after.
Love my 2023 Beta 300RR! After 4 WR 450’s in the last seven years it’s just so cool to be back on a two stroke. Cheers from north eastern Ontario Canada.
After having carpal tunnel surgery on both hands, it was highly recommended by my PT. I noticed it more on my 2017 with the non-balanced engine. But even now, with the 24, it helps. On a 3-5hr ride, no real difference in fatigue. It's the repeated days of riding where my hands feel the fatigue of the hits & vibrations. The Mako is bulletproof and can swap to the next bike of that make. To me, worth it.
Awesome run, good job man! I had my kyb revalved by Marc and it made a big difference. Not only I can go faster with more confidence but it’s also more pleasant to ride the bike.
Good run, congrats on the podium! I don’t know if it’s just me but video was lagging the entire time. My buddy got the same bike and had a lot of issues with the bike failing plugs. Why did you decide to go back to smart carb?
Congrats on winning your class! I’ve never done a hard enduro before. I’m not fast and I crash a lot, how thick is the competition in the B and C classes? Subscribed and interested to hear about the beta problems. I’m on a 24 300 rr just one plug tho lol
Much appreciated! Do it!! Racing will do 2 things; make you a better rider and expand on the adventure of dirt biking. Not fast and crash a lot was a good description of me as well. But honestly, drills, fitness training, & focused riding brought me a long way. The competition in B is pretty stiff at the top. C is definitely a good place to start. If you look back on my vids, I raced C for about 2 years. The move to B was a decision to help get past some of the bottlenecks that are inevitable, but are more cumbersome as you become a better rider with better fitness. USHE added 40+ B this year which is a perfect fit for me. If I continue to podium, I'll move to 40+ A, which is a big step considering it opens up the Pro/A splits in the series. As for the bike, it was chalked up as a sticking float causing a rich event. Fouled 3 sets of plugs over time and as the engine/exhaust filled with unburnt fuel it continued to foul plugs when the bike tipped... Once cleared out it ran great and performed flawless all weekend. I'll have more detail in the vid but that's the jist of it. Now... it has a new SC2 36mm Smart Carb, which I really like. Thanks for the support!!
Thanks for a great discussion on the bike. As I get older I’m looking less for speed and more for the ability to ride safely solo. I have several other bikes but feel this might be a very nice additional option. Thanks.
@xlr8518 I don't want to harass you but do have a link where you got yours or the size and set up your running? I am right on the edge of getting rid of this KTM 4 stroke and buying that beautiful 300 race edition.
@Matthew-wn8oq happy to help! I use the Beta version of these Ptech guards that have the bracket built in. They come with hardware too! www.p-tech.ee/KTM-Husqvarna-radiator-guard-kit-EXC-2017-2018-2019-2020-2021-2022-2023-2024 From there, I bought a SPAL 82mm fan from Amazon. www.amazon.com/Spal-30103018-Paddle-Blade-Puller/dp/B009OBP55G/ref=asc_df_B009OBP55G/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312484993382&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9143996227550201035&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1021274&hvtargid=pla-450303806325&psc=1&mcid=1e6a45fff4de3b558e77cea3c101c59b&gclid=Cj0KCQjwq86wBhDiARIsAJhuphk4KPvHGip-QcJLsvyoIxLE78QOtYU0iN9S14Ziig-lCekjWT38pcQaAlxyEALw_wcB I wired it to the battery with a KTM thermoswitch (same as Beta). www.amazon.com/KTM-THERMOSWITCH-95-100-DG-78035045000/dp/B00OQL0JU0
@Matthew-wn8oq no sweat. I use Ptech radiator guards that have a fan bracket built in. They make them for KTM too. From there I use a SPAL 82mm fan from Amazon and a KTM thermoswitch. Works great!
