Nice build. You might want to put your Acerbis front pull under your triple. That way it does not slip up when using it. you can use a zip tie to keep it secured in place (to keep it from slipping down when riding).
Honestly, I have used the strap both ways. I like it on top of the lower triple for a few reasons. 1. The length of the strap remains the same, which is easier to grab when needed. The loops don't sag or work their way down even when it has a zip tie. 2. They stay clean. Small, butit does keep them from rotting over time as the material gets continuously saturated. 3. I have never had an issue with them sliding up when running an MX plate. Because my headlight is removed, there are no rubber ring straps to hold it in place. Frankly, the pull strap could slide to the top, and it wouldn't hurt a thing. I appreciate the input and channel support!!
@@xlr8offroad Right on. Main thing is it's just how you like it. Very impressed with your setup I'm still rolling on my 2012 498 pushing 400 hours. These are very reliable bikes.
You lost me at spare starter. All these mods. There is a guy named Jimmy Lewis. He’s a pro rider, tester and all around super experienced guy. He often says, weekend guys put way to many mods, to the point of ridiculousness.
@utahdesertrider1806 does your friend Jimmy race hard enduro without a backup kickstart? If he is an offroad guy, he probably hits the button at the start line once per race... Switches fail all the time. I'm not spending $900 replacing bolts with titanium here...lol. A backup start switch is a VERY common mod for hard enduro riders and is not remotely expensive or complicated. Every mod on my bike serves 1 of 2 purposes. Be more reliable to finish a race or be more specific to my riding style. That's it. No chrome graphics, cone valves, high compression heads, or custom pipes... It's pretty basic stuff here. Thanks for the input and discussion!
Unless there is a technique I don't know, bump starting in a gully with rocks the size of my coach isn't going to be easy. On that note, the bike is getting a kick starter as a backup, too. 😉
@jasonyates8796 agreed. I forgot to add it to the discussion as a "future mod." My 17 had a kick start, and it saved me a few times. I'm glad Beta still gives the option for the kit.
@vincedaugherty9687 There is a reason SmartCarb uses the DF metering rod (fatter bottom) and a richer base setting compared to all previous single plug designs that use an AQ-11. Additionally, there is no difference in stock Keihin jetting configuration from Beta between the 23 single & 24 dual plug bikes, which I find interesting.... My 24's Keihin had some rich running issues stock, which came down to a wrong needle clip position from the factory and possibly a stuck float. I ran into having too much unburnt fuel in the engine, which fouled plugs every time there was a tip over as the fuel came down on the plugs in the head. Once getting that cleaned up, I have had no issues with the Keihin or the SC2 on this bike. The smooth off idle torque of this engine is different. It's different than my 17 with an S3 head. It's different than the 23 Race Editions I've ridden. Trials riders spend countless hours tuning initial torque feel from off idle conditions. This is where I feel the 24 shines. This is also where the pro hard enduro rider that rode my bike felt the difference from his 24 Husky. "It's a little more buzzy, but the low end is so smooth. Stronger down low than my bike. " It's possible that the dual plug design is more sensitive to the jetting. Additionally, I moved away from the expensive irridium and switched to a CR7EB with the same great results. It's about half the cost of the rare OEM plug. It's worth noting that I only ride and race hard enduro. I'm a top 40+ B rider, and I'm definitely not fast. For my uses, the dual plug is excellent. My .002. I will be making a video on this for sure.
I dont understand why People put different spare parts on the bike like the second starter.. In this case you should also take a spare pipe, tire,... With you 😂
@Maxpayn7895 Yeah, it's a balance of what will leave you sitting and added weight. But I will say, nothing worse than going from 1st to DNF because of a bike failure. Especially if it's a part that you could have easily carried.
Love the video very informative. I have a 250 Beta. I would like to go to the softer clutch Spring Setting you said you had no clutch slipping issues. Saturday 8:01.
Thanks! Correct, no slipping to date. This is after about 25 hours of riding and 2 hard enduro races with plenty of serious hill climbs. It's super easy.. Lean the bike on its side, remove clutch cover, loosen clutch bolts, and rotate "ring" so the bolts are now in position 1 (soft) from position 2 (standard). You will definitely feel a lighter pull after.
I race sprint enduros and harescrambles. I may just have to do this clutch mod to my beta. So far been a awsome bike. Much better then my 23 300.sherco, at least for me.
Interesting info on the clutch, I ll have to try that! But these clutches are so easy and smooth already, especially if you had a bike with a cable clutch before. Have you seen the Polisport rotor guard? It’s a lot more rigid than the acerbis and you can get fork shoe protection as well.
Thanks for the input! The standard clutch definitely isn't terrible. For me, I need as much control and consistency as possible for a 6 hour hard enduro at race pace. As for the Polisport, I'll definitely check it out! With the fork shoe guard, Acerbis makes them but they didn't live long. I had to trim away material to get them to fit with the rotor guard and the axle handle on the other side...lol.
@@xlr8offroad oh I agree standard is good but if it can get better I’m gonna try it. I don’t get to ride enough to be in tip top physical shape. I think a lot of the guards require trimming for that axle pull. Are you planning to race the Tennessee knockout?
@@AdamCoffey828 yeahhh, I'll be back better and stronger 💪! My goal is to win 40+ A for the East series. Tall order, but I'm ready to put in some work!!
Great and. detailed video. Very good information!I bought a 2022 300RR. Have you had detonation on your 300's? Do you think is a jetting issue? Can a compression head or a Smartcarb help me with this issue? I appreciate your help!
I've only experienced a slight pinging on my 2017 when using the S3 high compression head. This is with 93 octane ethanol free. The smart carb definitely seems to smooth out the engine. Pre-detonation can occur from too low octane fuel, too high compression, too much ignition advance and too high cylinder temps. I would recommend cutting your mixture with some race gas to see if it cures the symptom. If it does, you can adjust accordingly. If it doesn't, look into your jetting. Ensure your carb is clean & floats adjusted to 7mm per the manual. The factory jetting chart is pretty close.
Yepper! I'll be behind ya in 40+B. Gotta make that top 130 for the Main event! I plan to start a movement for them to just let everyone race the Main. Ya know, like pretty much EVERY other race in the series.
@@xlr8offroad awesome! I’ll be 40 in 2 years or Else I’d be rite there with you. I’m not prepared as usual but I do better every year and I have fun so 🤷🏻♂️. I’m running the qualifier and LCQ but not the TLR main even if I made it. Saving myself for Monday haha. See you there man!
Why didn't you go with the skid plate from Ptech? It has a piece of heavy duty plastic riveted to the bottom. I bought a 2018 300 RE and it had one on it with a pipe guard. I took it off because it weighed almost 5lbs. I left it off because I don't do hard enduro and didn't see the need to have it on.
I ran a Ptech on my 2017 300RR for a few years. As you can probably tell, that guard gets used in hard enduros, but you don't see them a lot. There are a couple of reasons. 1. They vastly widen the front of the bike. In rock guardens and pinch type obstacles, they can be a real hindrance. 2. They collect mud. This can be combatted with a front screen, but a valid effort has to be made to keep mud out of them. 3. As you alluded, the weight adds up, and when we race 6 hours, we want to enjoy as much of the light chassis as possible. For trail riding and amatuer riders, it's a great piece to start with. But as you will see, the higher class folks move away from them because of the stated downsides.
Unfortunately, it isn't. I have an assortment of different sized shrink tubes. This is simply 2 spade connectors with shrink tube on each one plugged into each spade. Then, I took a larger shrink tube and pushed it onto the outer base of the sensor. I have been on the search for an actual plug but have yet to find one. If I do, I'll likely do a vid or a short on it.
@@woodsrider117 I ran a Ptech skid plate/guard combo on my 2017 300RR for a few years. As you can probably tell, that guard gets used in hard enduros, but you don't see them a lot. There are a couple of reasons. 1. They vastly widen the front of the bike. In rock guardens and pinch type obstacles, they can be a real hindrance. 2. They collect mud. This can be combatted with a front screen, but a valid effort has to be made to keep mud out of them. 3. As you alluded, the weight adds up from mud, and when we race 6 hours, we want to enjoy as much of the light chassis as possible. The screeen helps with the bud but doesn't reduce clearance. For trail riding and amatuer riders, it's a great piece to start with. But as you will see, the higher class folks move away from them because of the stated downsides.
