NY-DIY Mechanical Garage is a channel that aims towards every day Automotive and Motorcycle repair, Diagnosis, Vehicle upgrades, Instructional content, Auto event promotion and Discussions about the automotive culture. Located North of NYC, NY-DIY Mechanical Garage is for the true enthusiast who wants to learn, watch and be a part of something special for generations to come. Please like and Subscribe to the Channel. Also, follow us on Instagram @nydiymechanical. Check out out our official web-site at www.nydiymech.com. To contact, please email us at nydiy22@gmail.com. Cheers!!!!!
Thanks, interestingly, sort of similar to my 2015 Journey/ 4 CYL;; & same Mo-339(* though. I generally change , out to Boss Purolator…..oddly never tried this hack, just grumbling about, the Mess!!
thank you for taking the time to make this video...Not beating you up,,, but when doing any type of work with bearings they need to be pressed off and on properly so as to cause NO damage...you do not want to have to do this job over again! be well and thank you
This vehicle has a reservoir tank, which make removing air out of the system easy. After whatever coolant repair you do, run the car for a while with the Coolant tank cap off as the vehicle warns and runs. Do small continuous revs with the heat on. As soon as you have consistent, chk the coolant tank and top off if needed. Hope this helps. Be safe, Cheers.
Spray the truck in woolwax. It'll love you for it. Yes it makes everything oily but it also gets into every nook and cranny and it'll come apart like it's new when it's 10 years old. I use wool wax black on my pickup and one of the unexpected results is that the bushings tend to last forever because the black has graphite in there and it blocks the Sun from getting to the rubber components. Doing inside the rails is the hardest part but you only have to do it once and then annually. You just reapply to the areas that get hit the most with water. I wasn't going to do it at first because it makes the truck oily under there and it does smell like sheep for a couple of days but that goes away but being in the country I know your tractor will get this like oil wax buildup on the motor because of the dirt getting into the oil that seeped out of the tractor engines and it lasts forever. You still see those tractors around with no corrosion under that oil mud slurry that they cover themselves in and it does the same thing for the pickup truck or the Corvettes. But your Corvette is mostly fiberglass but there are areas that could benefit from getting sprayed😅 I'm surprised it's not mandatory in New York and those upper states that use salt on the road like crazy😅
Oh and everything else use 303 UV protectors on. The stuff lasts way longer, you seem to enjoy your machines. Especially plastic components in the engine bay, plastic and rubber.
I'm curious, did you mark/index the orientation of the driveshaft with the input shaft on disassembly? I am skimming through your video and not sure whether you did... other folks are saying to do that. I'm not so sure I put mine back together exactly how it came apart.... I just put in a new LS7 clutch/pp, torque tube bearings (left my couplers in there as they looked new), and diff clutch packs... I now have some felt vibration in the shifter that corresponds with RPM now that wasn't there before. I'm all in my head thinking maybe its because I changed the orientation of the input shaft/driveshaft.. Also not sure whether the LS7 flywheel should have been match balanced to my old stuff. I did see a little weight pressed into my LS6 flywheel. There wasn't anywhere on the conversion flywheel to move it over to (it was a RAM lightweight FW). Anyways, just trying to check my sanity, theres so much conflicting information out there.
Hey thx for watching and commenting. Yeah, there's tons of information out there, from many good, and not so good, individuals out there. The talent out there in the RU-vid world is truly amazing. I just went off of research, combined with my knowledge, and did things. I didn't mark my splines at all. I also have a slight vibration, but that's due to poly drive shift bushings. I also found that my rear tires were out of balance by .25oz. After balancing them, the slight vibration went to a faint one. I also went w the ls7 clutch, but with an aluminum FW. Great factory upgrade. I also did zr1 clutches, w upgraded Bellville washers as well when I did did gears. What big difference. Out side of all that, haven't had any issues. Hopefully I answered your question. Need anything else feel.free to reach out. Thx for watching, and please like and subscribe. Also follow @nydiymechanical. Be safe, Cheers
@@gsc512 You're right, they are balanced as a complete assembly. In hind-sight I should have, now better for next time. Thx for the nice comment. Be safe, Cheers.
My apologies for the very late response. Depends on what you're looking to do with the car. What model do you have, and what's your end goal.for the car? Doing a clutch on any corvette platform is a pain, especially c5 thru c7. I'm aware that the z51,zo6 and zL1 have twin disc clutches. Very robust for oem. Get back to me lmk. Thanks so much for the questions. Please like and subscribe, along with following @nydiymechanical
Hey, saw your comment on another video about your 4 Piston Wilwood calipers clearing the 17” Z fronts and am interested on your setup and what rotor / pad you use and also do you have any links on where to buy the right caliper like you have the red one ? Because I’ve seen many silver ones and am kinda confused thank you, I’m also curious if you run Z51 rotors or C5 sized stock rotors or Drilled / slotted and same for the pads C5 or C6 size ? Thank you and sorry for all the questions
My deepest apologies for the late response back. So, to answer your questions. For my brakes, I'm running tje Wilwood 4 piston fixed mounted calipers front and rear. Model # for the front are SLC56, and rear DPC56. There're a factory upgrade using existing mounting used on the spindles. Go wildwood to find them. You may have to buy from a vendor. I bought mine on ebay, best price ever. They fit with the c5 z 17 rim, but will also clear a regular c5 base rim as well, you just need a 12 to 15mm hubcentric spacer. I use base model wagon wheels 17 in front and 18 in rear, with both 15mm spacers. Set of track tires, uts an awesome set up, very happy with it. With this Calipar set up, you use the factory size rotors front and rear. I run a blank rotors to keep the cost down on buying pads. The stopping power is waaaayyyyy better than stock, still using factory rims set up. The front pads you can other brand pads. The rear pads, are wildwood only. Wildwood does seem more extreme pads for the rear, but there're so not cheap. The front like I said, other companies make different styles of.pads you can use for various driving conditions. Hope this answers your question. Please like and subscribe. Follow us @nydiymechanical. Any other questions please reach out. Cheers
So sorry for the late response. Regular green antifreeze. Nothing special. Thx for watching. Please subscribe and chk me out on the gram. Glad to help, Cheers.
@@NY-DIYMECH hey no worries! I’m planning on changing my thermostat today and I’m going to do a complete flush with distilled water, just wasn’t sure if I should use the pricier Asian vehicle coolant for a complete fill or if I’d be okay with the cheaper yellow (all vehicle) type because I already have several gallons of that on hand. Thanks for the reply!
Hello, thanks so much for leaving a comment. It was a good amount, but not as much as a C5. The C5 in the rear trunk area, there's a trunk well that drops, and you have to drop the cradle really really low. The C7 doesn't have that trunk well. To keep things more simple, split the trans and end of torque, and drop out as two sections. The C7 if your working on the ground, is just a little bit easier. I hope this helps. Again, thanks for the comment, please like and subscribe to the channel and Instagram. Good luck and be safe. Cheers.
@NY-DIYMECH Did you end up having to drop down the engine cradle to get at the bell housing bolts? You mentioned in the video that you might have to but I couldn't tell if you did or not. Thanks!
@@venomous1svt yes, I have too a little bit. Disconnect the steering shift either at the rack, or steering column end, and undo all the engine cradle bolts little by little. Don't undo them totally of, leave a good 5 turns on. That should give you plenty of space to remove the bell housing. Any other questions feel free to reach out again. Cheers
Great videos. Simple and to the point. I myself am about to tackle this bushing install as well as new outer tie rods/ball joints and stuff while it's apart. Any squeaks now that you've had them for a while? Any noticeable accelerated tire wear with the front toe out? I have 0 toe in my front and was considering a very slight toe out to help turn in. I'm running LG coilovers and upgraded sways and will have some NT01s on the way soon. Thanks for any info!
Hello!!!, thanks for leaving a comment. No squeaks or rattles in the suspension, but I have notice some different interior noises now that the suspension is stiffened up. Big noticeable difference in handling, and steering response. Just make sure you order extra poly grease from a different source, the Poly sus/bush kit I went with didn't supply enough grease. Make sure you use lots of grease and wear gloves, very messy stuff. Regarding tire wear, nothing crazy really. I've done multiple track days and street driving, no crazy wearing found. I do run a different set of track tire/wheels, and still don't really notice crazy wear, other than track wear and tear. I hope this helps, Thanks for leaving a comment. Please like and subscribe to the channel and Instagram. Good luck on the project and be safe. Cheers.
Yes, from what I remember. I gapped the cooler from the radiator about 10mm. I hope this trick helps. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe. Ride safe, Cheers.
Not that I'm aware of. There are now many companies making aluminum flywheels for the LS base. Which could be good for competitive pricing. Thx for commenting, Cheers.
No issue at all. It does have a replaceable steel contact clutch surface plate. Great throttle response. I'm using a LS7 clutch, so the cluch is a little heavier compare to other aftermarket clutches out there. Thx for following and posting. Cheers.
Thx for the comment. It worked for me. Also, chk the wiring to the sensor, I've also seen it get ripped off when riding. That's would also cause a light. Please throw a like and subscribe. Chk us out on the gram as well. Ride safe, Cheers.
Trying to record and move things w/ one hand is difficult, I know better for next time. I hope you enjoyed the video. Thank you for watching, stay safe.
Thx very much for watching. Stay tuned for more bushing installs on a C7 project I'm currently working on. Please like and subscribe. Be safe, Cheers!!
I saw your reel on IG installing the other bushing. I had no idea you made that tool up yourself. That is genius. I'm really impressed. This works amazing. But like I said on IG definitely see if you can get a deeper socket for your tool so you can send it home without hitting it. I just subscribed and hit all on the bell so I can stay up to date on your work. Really cool channel. Keep up the good work and have fun. 👍👍
Apologies for the late response. I'm still trying to navigate through the tube and IG notifications. Thx so much subscribing, means lots. There's lots of good content coming soon. Be safe.
Yeah, the wind noise is a little loud, along with the music. Trying to improve my editing skills....lol. I'll get there. I know I can got faster, just need to commit to two turns. Thanks for reaching out, stay safe.
Hey, thx for the comment. Give that a shot, along with looking at the oil temp sensor or wire damage. Both are located around the bottom rear area of the machine. I've also found either or to be broken, giving a false warning light as well. Cheers!!
Hey thx man, much appreciated. It was an awesome day, really was. Great cars and people. My first time using this editing software, I'll get better over time. Gotta start someplace...lol. Thx for watching, Cheers!!
Apologies for the late response, I never got a notification...lol. It's about 450ish...if that. I really don't have lots done to it. Tune, headers, and intake. I did things to make it better, like adjustable suspension, sway bars, oil cooler and big brake kit, along with a set of inexpensive track tires. Its an all around driver aimed towards the track. C5 is a great base to work off of. More Video to come. Thanks for commenting and be safe.
The owner did actually....lol. Put lots of amazing mods into it. Beautiful car, performed excellent on the track, and was getting faster lap times as the day continued, just couldn't beat the simple C5 z.
