Another electronics repair video blog. Some on site, some at my shop. The idea is to show the steps involved in trouble shooting electronics and how to get the job done in a reasonable amount of time and in a format that can be understood by even the novice but technical enough to keep the more advanced technician interested. I have been an electronics technician for over 40 years now so I have a bit of experience in even the oldest of equipment, like the ones with tubes so these videos will cover a wide range of products from antiques to modern. There will be updates frequently so stop back and see what is new. Don't forget to subscribe so you will know when a new video is posted. Thanks for watching.
Do you mean the magnifying light? I don't know. I got it from Amazon several years ago. My only requirement was a round tube and big enough. I think it was $30.
Thanks for the video...just pick one of these up and seems to work just fine.....but I wanted it so I could check 4 pin tubes like the CX-345....but I can't seem to find it on the rolling index.....any ideas? Thanks much, Mike
@@AERVBlog I don’t need a power bank. I have a DeWalt work light. I can plug a usb C or usb A into it, plus I can switch to one of my big DeWalt batteries to power the work light.
So I was able to replace all the Electrolytic caps. All were good it turned out. Originally, I had no sound from the sub but did have HF through the tweeter. Now, NOTHING. My +15V is dead. Other voltages are fine at their testpoints. It seems to show up once in a while then disappear again. It's weird! I have tried tracing the voltage. I've learned a lot but still can't track it down. I might just have to send it off for repair.
@@AERVBlog well they are installed correctly. I don't want to take up too much of your time, but do have a few schematic questions. Q1: On this speaker schematic, it seems like sheet 1 is all audio and sheet 2 is all power? Is that correct? Or is it divided up some other way? Q2: The places on sheet 2 where it has he kind of empty box arrow and +49V or -56V etc., one arrow faces out from the circuit and one faces in. What does that mean? How can I tell where that voltage is coming from/going to from the arrows? I keep trying to figure out where the voltage rails are with reference to the trace layouts and componant sheet. Q3: Same question for the "~ " with the +15V or -15V (AC). I don't understand how/where the physical connection is re: the "~" symbol. Q4: What is PCMP and NCMP on sheet 2 mean? Thank you so much! I'm sure you are busy guy.
@@jdil1969@jdil1969 you have no idea. I have been building out 7 studios for VoiceCorp reading service for the blind and I got voluntold to take over the quartermaster position at my VFW, hence nothing from me for a long while now. I might have a day off, first since July 1, this weekend and I will look for answers for you.
Tengo 1 pareja de "hr824" y lo único que pasa es que uno saca 5 dB más que el otro pero del pequeño, he hecho la medición con una señal rosa. Alguien me puede ayudar?
Damn I remember these old radios. In the winter time they made a damn good heater for the car. Summertime not so much. My dad had a white face and a 68 cougar mounted on the console between the seats. He had (2) 102 inch whips had a dog chained he would clip to the front bumper. Go to the beach throw the dog chain in the water and talk skip.
What are the chances of finding a walk through on a PS-30. Saving the story that goes along with the PSU and just done the inevitable by grounding out the casing popping the fuse after being 15 years in storage probing before use. One of these things sentimental in value place away. From memory (15 years ago..plus) Replaced T1, mains to 6Volts and resistors R6 and R12. Please correct me if I am wrong as there might have been a incorrect resistor value for one of these two from what is labeled on schematic ? Those parts where the only issue I experienced going beyond duty cycle. Will look into what the ESR 's are on some these caps. Interesting that 3 Ohm resistor got taken out noting on my side was fine before Mr aligator clip (240v coffee been region) Raise the stakes for a carton of beers for that one. 101 how not to energise a relay 🤣 Yeah the old girl goes back to IC2A era. Nothing's changed with matrix diodes.
I finally gave up fixing these things. Now I just rip out the guts and put in a good quality 40 Amp switching PS along with a current shunt for the meter. I use Mean Well power supplies.
Ever seen one where the thing works until a power interruption then when the power comes back the keypads doesn't work for a few days then will start working again until the next interruption?
Yes, I have. It all has to do with that memory block's battery going bad. Sometimes, you can short out the little supercap next to it, and that will fix it. When the unit comes back on after a power outage, that memory gets loaded with junk. At least usually. It can also be the LED driver chips in the console. They go flakey.
Great video. When choosing replacement electrolytic caps for these speakers, do I need to worry much about ripple current ratings and ESR ratings? Or just values/voltage/dimensions? Thank you!
Thanks. IMO just go with good quality caps. Low ESR can be important in some circuits but not here. All those other values won't mean much to you. If there is a code for the type on the cap you can see if that code is available but codes change from manufacturer to manufacturer. Basically go for name brand, typical life hours and voltage and don't cheap out on form factor. Get the one that fits, lead spacing and size.
I had a bag of 2032 holders so I used one of those. It won't last as long as the original but at least it is easily changeable. Thanks for the good words.
I have worked on countless GE MASTR II transceivers and most units over 20 years of age I just make it a point to replace ALL of the tantalum capacitors in the exciter board and the audio board and on the 10 volt rail. Most often they will let out the magic smoke with a loud pop. If you have one on the 10 volt rail you will take out the IC board that regulates that voltage. This IC in unobtanium, you will need to cannibalize another radio to get that part. Same with the audio amplifier board, will destroy the audio amp IC. Bad thing is you need to replace a tantalum with a tantalum. They are expensive and one hopes they are not New Old Stock, you could wind up with a bad new replacement.
@@AERVBlog I use them for repeaters only in todays world. Receivers are sensitive and with that large preselctor on the front end you can eliminate a lot of intermod. Yes crystal filters were still available to convert the receiver to narrow bandwidth last I checked but rocks for the elements are very hard to find since ICM closed shop a few years ago.
@@Subgunman Yeah, Bomar is all that is left and they have a minimum of $100. There is a place in the UK that does them too but more expensive. There should be a way to sub in a modern crystal oscillator but I haven't seen a way to do it yet.
I bought this exact model about one and a half years ago but didn't get around to trying it out until recently. It would not turn on when I "long pressed" the power button. I hooked up the charger and the screen came on but said "low battery" and the battery icon showed it was full with no indication of it charging, contradictions that indicated some type of problem. I took the front and back plates off of the welder and figured out how to remove the board, (It has small aluminum bars that slide out to remove it but are pretty easy to push out, That plastic goop shown in this video only keeps you from sliding the board out that way, it isn't holding the board in place. Inside was a battery pack that I checked and had only 2 volts present. I thought I might as well try a battery pack hack and hooked an alligator clip to the positive terminal of the battery pack and another to the negative terminal. Then I got a battery I had that had about 4 volts showing on it and touched the other ends of my leads from the battery pack to the ends of the battery for about 5 seconds. I checked the voltage on the battery pack and it was up to 3 volts. My single battery was still at 4 volts so I repeated the process and then hooked up the charger to the pack. The pack began to charge correctly. It took awhile to charge but when it was full, I put it all back together, (forgot how the aluminum bars went in, so that doubled the time). Afterwards, it worked great, just like the above video shows.
By long plug in wires I mean the ones you said be very careful with when pulling them out. I hold the socket and use needle nose pliers to pull them and plug them back in after I ohm them. My transceiver came with one smashed.
The way they routed all those wires all over the place makes it so hard to get it back together without smashing at least one. Pay special attention to the wire bundle going into the PA. Thanks for watching. Good luck.
I counted the squares on the cutting mat and guessed the dimensions of the tinfoil strips, it's roughly 3 x 25 cm, so an area of 75 cm squared. Didn't expected 2 nF of capacitance at all, quite surprised! Thanks for the video, really informative: I appreciated that you showed both the entire building process and you took the time to make all sorts of measurement, the most interesting to me being capacity since I would like to assemble my own for fun and exploration and I wanted a ballpark figure to know what I should expect out of it
This is the BEST Fluke 8012A video online! Thank you. Now I know how to get measurements off mine. It’s actually much better at milliohm readings than both my other fluke meters. My 6.5 digit meter is on par with the 1980s fluke that I bought for 49.00. 😂😂 Now I will figure out how to install a backlight. Shouldn’t be too hard. Thanks for the video.
@@AERVBlogwill do. Might check with some China lcd factories about required quantity for a pin to pin exact lcd with backlight. If it’s not too crazy might buy them and sell the rest on flea bay.
My 757 rotating dial wheel is jammed, the frequency is locked even when I can get it to rotate with difficulty, and nothing seems to loosen it. I've had it apart inside and out, but find no solution...any ideas?
You would be amazed at how locked up the tuning shaft can get from dried grease and dust. Make sure that is turning. There are a few videos on youtube about it.
@@AERVBlog Thanks for the response, and I've tried to get the whole dialing unit out, but find no way to do so due to my inability technologically. I'm 87, have unskilled fingers, and I can't find somebody to do the repair. Also, the cost in today's economy makes it more reasonable to throw the rig away and buy another used one. I like dials and buttons, not menus. When you've been in love with the old equipment for years and can't keep up with the new technology, you don't have much choice.
Help please! Both of my HS824 speakers have been serviced before because when they are turned on they had a shortage and fluctuated in volume. I had to quickly switch the low frequency settings back and forth to get each the sounds to jump to the correct volumes set. The speaker volumes constantly cut as if the speakers have some type of shortage.
If they work a all it is a sign that something mechanical is wrong. In your case I would guess that the 4 switches on the back need cleaned. Not a hard job just get a good cleaner like Deoxit 5. Use just a little, don't make them swim in it. Spray and exercise them. You will have to take the amp out of the box but it is easy.
I have a compressor in front of this boy and he never lights up unless I bypass the compressor. I'm all diy was blessed with this guy for 10 dollars lmao is this okay
Hello sir, great demonstration, I also have the same millivoltmeter I am looking to make the test point, can you send me the measurements of the part Regards
Thank you for the video, it helps me a lot. I just picked up a Heathkit TC-2 . Can you please help me to find out the parameters for the neon bulb as my one came without it. Thank you in advance.
I have one of these boxes still in use on 99.9 KBAT Monhans (Midland) Texas and they are almost bomb proof! As long as they will stay type accepted I will keep using it.
Been enjoying your channel, sir! My best recommendation for fixing any of the Focusrite platinum line is to use several 9mm JHP rounds to ensure it never, ever returns to service.
The original 700 models are worth tracking down - Aphex originally produced their own VCA (the 1537/A) that was famously used in the original Solid State Logic B/E consoles. The original Dominator has six of them (stereo x 3 bands). Compared to its contemporaries like the DBX202 or the Alison Research EGC-101, I have found the 1537 really 'snaps' well on percussive sources. One other thing people who want vintage analog character on a budget should check out are the DBX 900 series racks/moudles. Silver-side 903 compressors and Aphex 9721 Dominators can really get hairy if that's the vibe you're going for.
Nice one! Hello how to connect this to mixer? I have Yamaha Mg10uxf- there is one Phones jack (like TRS) labeled FX send. And there’s no label “FX returns” input for mixer. So I tried I plug it to mic input instead, I’m getting hiss /noise. So what kind of cable will work to route this thing to my mixer?
Thanks for the video. I have several 528e's and I think some of the switches are getting flaky. Do you know where I can order more? The only ones I've found have been in the Netherlands. I'm not confident in the longevity of using contact cleaner.
Contact cleaner won't work. The switches can be gotten from digikey. The DPDT is a F2UEE the bigger one is F4UEE. If you have to change the stacked mic/line and Pad switch contact me at aervblog@gmail.com. that is not a normal switch. Be careful taking the switches out.
