As asa is so bad with warping on larger and thinner parts i would like to see a showcase of alternative supportmaterials to reduce fan requirements for overhangs and bridges.
That's a neat find. Will try this, I don't have MMU so only way I can do this is with "pause at height' method. andincrease temp of nozzle at that height.
I’d just like to mention something about temperature. I printed many rc plane parts at 220 or so as slicers recommended. Brittle and weak parts. Very obvious with thin walls. I could crush the part in my hand. I read somewhere that hips is set to lower than ideal because it’s used mostly as support material. I raised to 265 and the parts became much stronger. The layer adhesion felt similar to pla. I also let my chamber soak to 40C.
I'm not a fan of PP CF just because you lose so much layer adhesion by the addition of the carbon fiber. Regular PP has perfect layer adhesion and is an amazing material for making bottles and other water proof items. A better solvent resistant material that is also rigid and strong is PPS CF. It's expensive and requires a high temp printer, but it is a much better material for solvent resistant 3d printed structural parts.
Definitely a video of printing PETG on a layer of PLA is worth a separate video. Show us your techniques and ideas. Also for those who would be using filament change option on one extruder printers.
I have been using polystyreen as an interface layer for supports for some time. Works well enough on ASA and PETG. I deliberately mention interface layers. I do not print support material completely from polystyreen. This trick reduces the amount of toolchanges saves material, time and wear to your machine.
I recently found a nice improved replacement for PETG in the form of Filalab's PCTG, and now it seems PP might be an improvement over that for my applications, where temperature resistance and ease of printability are priority (I'm steering away from ABS and ASA for the lack of an enclosed printer for now). Thank you for the video and bringing this to our attention :) Perhaps PCTG might be something worth your study time as well?
Definitely interested in seeing nylon added to the mix, I would love to see if there is another material that could be combined like that to reduce the warping/bed adhesion issue
The thermal stresses that develop as it cools are hard to minimize without the use of a heated chamber for certain materials like abs. The goal for plastics is print them and keep the chamber hot, closer to their glass transition temps (i.e. when the plastic becomes solid again after melting) so that you don't have large thermal stresses develop as the geometry is changing during printing. Less thermal gradient means less warping. Then after printing is finished, cool the part slowly and the final geometry will be much more accurate, though you will still have some dimensional changes during this cooling period too (these are unavoidable but you can plan for them through careful engineering).
Thanks for your comment. You're definitely right. I know that this is not the best way to print ABS. The idea was rather to show a possibility if you don't have a heated bed or are really trying to drastically reduce your power consumption. Of course, the shrinkage of materials like ABS cannot be avoided.
Finding "tricks" to print ABS on an open air machine AND with a reduced bed temp isn't an achievement that people should be aiming for. At the very least put a cardboard box over the machine to increase the ambient as much as you can and go slow enough to where a fan isn't required and enclose it as much as you can. That way you can print a semi decent ABS part on a machine that isn't meant for it. I suggest watching this video to better understand what's happening to the part you're printing and how much temperature really affects the quality of the parts you're printing especially when using materials that want a higher ambient like ABS/ASA/PC/PA etc. If you need an ABS part, at least try to get as close to abs printing conditions as possible - not as far away as possible. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-U-RvbcHbEe4.html
First of all, you're right. My go-to ABS setup is also an enlcosed machine with 100 °C + heated bed. But: there are still printers out there without heated bed (Cetus for example) and if you happen to need a part with better temperature resistance than just PLA, such a method could be useful. Secondly, this is just a concept, that also could be applied to other filaments, like PP, that do not require a warm chamber but won't stick to common print surfaces.
Wouldn't recommend HIPS for printers close to humans. The styrene is giving off very poisonous vapers. There is a video called "I had ASA Poisoning! 25 IMPORTANT Filament Answers!" and it is very informative! Only use in WELL ventilated areas without alot people in them. P.S: If you say "that's HIPS and not ASA" Yes. Styrene is the S in both of them.
I tried printing TPU on top of PETG to make a mudguard for a mountain bike (tough TPU to take impact from stones/..., PETG for stiffness). Worked really well, but especially with thin parts, going with PETG first (higher bed temps) was very beneficial for layer adhesion.
"As I already knew from previous tests, PLA has by far the best layer adhesion" Er, TPU has the best layer adhesion of any of the tested materials. Your mounting solution for the TPU-TPU test was just incorrect for a flexible material. Surely you know this though so why misrepresent the fact?
I have been using this for a long time. I change the thread by hand after the first layer. I print on a glass sheet and the PLA adheres to it very strongly. On a PLA base layer, although I have already printed with PA-CF, ABS, PMMA, PETG. It never came up, but it happened that it broke the glass when printing POM material. Unfortunately, this cannot be printed thickly because it shrinks very strongly, even though it is very impact and abrasion resistant.
For that print with the first layer PLA and the rest of the part in ABS, can you elaborate if you used the PLA bed temperature through the entire print? Or did it go up to abs temp after the first layer? Or somewhere in the middle? Definitely interested in trying that.
Awesome video! I’ve seen some videos about concerns with carbon fiber ‘dust’ and I’m wondering - if someone really needs a filament containing CF maybe you’re onto something here and the CF filament could be encased with PLA, ABS, or PETG to reduce the worry about CF fibers and health risks? Do you think CF printing is a health hazard?
Hey JanTec, I think it'd also be interesting to know how two different pla's, can even be of the same brand, bond. That way we'd know if when we're making multicolor prints, if we are sacrificing the strength of our part, we'd have a rough estimate by how much
printing abs need enclosure...need heat around the part (like 40+c ) and no wind blowing..then it wont warp. and let it cool down slowly inside the enclosure.
Let's say you want to print a Part in ABS but you want to use the method of using PLA for the first layer to prevent Warping but You also don't have an MMU. How can you accomplish That?
My general method to Print ABS is to do it as cold as possible to minimize warping. Even if i have to slow down the printer works fine on Voron 2.4 and X1C
I've used clear PETG as a first layer before printing ABS/ASA before. PETG has very strong adhesion to PEI beds (sometimes too strong, but I had no issues in this use case) and strong enough adhesion to ABS/ASA that I didn't get any warping in the moderate-size parts of I printing. Because clear PETG is so transparent, I don't have to worry about matching color with the rest of the print, or having to pick a color combination.
I'd love to see this with fancier filaments. I love my PC-CF, but I'd like to spice it up with some color accents. Luckily I've found that ASA bonds decently well to it, but I'd like to see some more better data on it!
