I do historic restoration on buildings in Texas. Been doing so for 21 years, and typically get involved in every aspect of the process. This channel will go over some of these procedures.
@@LeoFernandez-q7l for metal windows, you can use the DAP 1012 or Sarco DuelGlaze. But both would have to be ordered. Your best bet would be to try and find a supplier near you, that can order it for you. If you have wooden windows, you can find DAP 33 glazing compound in most hardware stores
This is not Glazing... This is a maintenance worker who the property owner has. Not a professional by any means..... This makes me mad because I am a Glazier..... Windows are sealed with caulking and or silicone. This upsets me...
My problem is working with SPF pine. I cut them well for the frame. Eyeballing down the 2x4s they didn't look much out of shape. When I attached the two long sides to one of the short, then went to put the last short on, it was then apparent that there was some twist and crook and enough, as it turned that if I could attach the last piece, the whole frame wouldn't sit even. As the frame is free standing (a shelf over an old style wooden tool chest 43" x 26" and about 50" vertical when open) and so I can't use a wall and pull the frame to that. My garage is not ventilated and it has a 2 celcius difference between ceiling level and work bench height (if it has been not opened for a while). With a brush type concrete finish for a floor (for safety for my father-in-law), the floor isn't a great place to put weights on anything you don't want marked up. I don't have 4 or 5 weeks with the wood under some weight and the cost between SPF and hardwood kiln is vast. I can get C grade pine 2x4s but I'm not sure if I bring it into my environment if it will suck up moisture and start moving around before I can get the frame constructed....
So much information and an outstanding video on how to do it. As with all experts you make it look easy. I have some old windows to redo here in France so can’t wait to try your method. Thank you so much for all your explanations👏👏👌👌❤🤞🤞🤞
This is the video im looking for. Im currently on transition of transferring to our new home that is an old house and need fixing. I aporeciate this tutorial so much. I just need to find now that glazing putty.
@@roberternst4678 the side that is angled like it was designed to make that cut does not work on all sizes of glazing rabbets. I have used that earlier in my glazing career, and it will work in many situations. But since it doesn’t work in all situations, I didn’t want to get used to it
This guy is right on! So good to see a window painter with experience and good sense. No tape, no razor blades. Seals up the joint at the glass and then doesn't disturb it. Go ahead everyone. Aquire some skill!!!
Brother this is damn satisfying to watch, I just did a small bottom piece with butyl compound and I’m no where near as clean as this, I think it comes with practice.
I just did this, I read the pack of the linseed oil putty and it said it's not for double glazing so I bought butyl compound for double glazed. It turned out clean but from what I read it said it will never fully dry. I also noticed that my rabbit is pretty worn down and the aluminium holding the double glazing is nearly vanishing because it was exposed for a long time probably some years. Did I use the correct glazing compound for the window type being double glazing in a wooden sash? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
@@RinzSach I’ve only used the glazing putty on double pane glass once. It was specked by the architect, so I hope he did his homework on the matter. But you can never go wrong with manufacturers recommendations. That way, if problems take place, you can always cover yourself. But honestly, I wouldn’t see why you wouldn’t be able to use the putty or the butyl. In any event, best of luck to you! I’m sorry I don’t have a lot of input on the matter. Very great question
Thank you for your amazing teaching video,but when I search"calcium carbonate" in amazon, result show all about whiting teeth...😅couldn't find a ordinary clean whiting power...🤣
@@JennyChen-o4v That “Rainbow” brand commercial whiting used to be in every Sherwin Williams until I made this video!!😂 Now, it is only available online. But any calcium carbonate will work. If you can’t find any, there are a few alternatives. The dry 45 minute Sheetrock powder works, and I’ve even used cornstarch before, however I would put that as the last option 👍 Thanks a lot!
Ha this is the old "flush" glazing (no stops) method that I haven't seen in 50 years. Excellent. Today there is a "Teflon tool available today that allows you to toll this and a caulking process. This product is a mastic product produced by Tremco in this form, gun form and tape form. Watching finishing of this type of window frame is absolutely excellent. I've been manufacturing windows for 31 years and it is nice to see the good "old" days. If my window designs had this method of sealing the glass today I would have been broke. This method advanced to close cell tapes for frame and glazing beads. However looking back in the 60s we back beaded the window glazing leg with an air gun and 45 gallon barrels of this Tremco product and then a snap in glazing exterior bead. Thinking back to growing up our windows in the house had this style of glazing. 1950 HA. Well 70 years of reminiscing .!!!!!!!
That’s why u never watch tv DIY, cause they no no more than yourself, I’m a painter for 45 years, and the sad thing is everyone thinks they can paint, they think it’s just open a tin and load a brush, which there is an art also, there is pro painters, this guy defo knows what he’s talking about,but it doesn’t mean u will just do as he has, it takes years of experience to be a top decorator, ye this bloke is defo the business, saying that to get to his league , anyone would need to serve there time with him, be his apprentice in other words, I assure u , u won’t do what he’s doin by just watching this video, however most sadly think they will 😂😂
Thank you so much sir for the tutorial. I've been asking my brothers to do my windows 4 some time, but it was of no avail. I so happy that now i can do them my self THANK U.... THANK U ...SIR ONCE AGAIN
Back a few years ago, it was available at any Sherwin Williams store! But now, I have to order it. There are certain pottery stores that carry it, and some people swear by 45 minute hot mud, as doing the same thing. It can be found in any major hardware store, in the Sheetrock section, in powder form. But also, in a pinch, I have used corn starch as well!
We goy out metal windows glazed, now our dad assigned me and my sister the painting work . Windows are already painted I have no experience or knowledge on this stuff Can you please answer few of my questions please. Should we paint directly or it needs primer or something? What type of paints are best ? Can acrylic paints do the job? (We are going to paint it making it look like wood) whike creating the strokes, if we add water to the paint to desaturate it a bit , will it affect the putty ?
Some people prefer a straight putty knife to a traditional glazing knife, but whatever feels best in your hands is the right one for you. I always prime the glazing putty before painting, but the type of putty you use will dictate the primer. On wood sash I prefer to use the Sarco type M this time of year. It cures in a couple days, as opposed to 2 weeks. Just can’t apply it if rain is in the forecast. Sarco type M can be gone over with a Latex. Dap 33 needs an oil based primer. PPG makes a great industrial oil based primer that I always use for metal windows.
It depends on the glazing compound that you’re using, and the material of the window. For metal windows, I like the PPG oil based industrial primer. On wood windows, I’ve always liked the Zinzzer oil braised primer. Most glazing compounds require an oil based primer, but Sarco putty has begun to recommend a latex primer
Vinyl windows typically have a plastic/vinyl angle piece that can be replaced in the event of changing the glass. I’ve never used this product on vinyl, so I can’t say that it will or won’t work
I am a glazier in North Tx. Alot of our putty glaze windows are 'Steel Skeletons' big divided lite steel bay windows. The putty is thick, up to 1" in width. Its a nightmare de-glazing those. Do you have any tips for those?
I feel that pain!!! Heat, preferably steam, is the best way to soften that stuff that I have found. I convert a cheap Wagner wallpaper remover to direct steam if it’s being done in place, or put in a steam box whenever I can
I love that the owner are having a restoration/repair done on these doors instead of replacing them. So wonderful to see someone so capible doing the work. I'm a new fan.
I've got a nightmare of a project that needs doing. My casement windows, all 50+ of them, were "glazed" with something that appears to be stucco, is 1/2" thick, triangular shaped and crumbling. I have no idea how to remove this without breaking the glass.
If you can apply some steam to it, it might soften it up enough to come out, or at least break the bond. I usually just take a cheap Wagner wallpaper remover, and put a different attachment on the top to direct the steam into one point. But that does sound like a bad situation! Once you start breaking glass, all the little pieces that get stuck behind the glazing are a pain to clean up. And it can be a little dangerous too, because you think you got them all, and then a small sliver of one will remind you that you didn’t. I’ve definitely had to break the glass on several occasions, but if I can avoid it, I will try my best to.
@@dooeydessimal8917 Honestly, I'm not sure it isn't stucco. When a piece breaks off it always leaves the bottom stuck to the glass. I'll see if I can melt a loose chunk before attempting anything on the windows. I used to have a steamer for bathroom cleaning but the element died. Will try to find another one.
The panes on my casement windows appear to be held in place with thick stucco that is now cracking off. This was probably applied over the glaze. Not sure how to repair.
I have moved into a "new" house and it needs a lot of maintenance. This is such a great tutorial. Questions though, what is the tool called and how do I find "commercial white" in Australia? I can't afford to have this work done and I can't really afford to wait, windows are falling apart. Thanks for this tutorial, it is excellent.
The tool I’m using is called a glazing knife. You should be able to find one in the paint section of most hardware stores. A stiff putty knife will work as well, if you cannot find one. The calcium carbonate is from the company “Rainbow” it is called ‘commercial whiting’ and has become a little harder to find. But any calcium carbonate will work. Hope it helps you! Let me know if I can be of any help!
WOW! I have worked on multiple glazing projects and this is the best tutorial I’ve ever seen. Detailed but concise explanations and demonstrations that reinforce skill and process! True craftsman!
It’s not really recommended to add to it by most manufacturers. There are certain types, like “Sarco type M” that dry in 48 hours. But mostly, the calcium carbonate helps it to skin over a little faster. But I don’t use any other additives. Warmer weather is better for faster drying, and dryer weather is also a plus
