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Awesome video 👍 I have used mine on my WW2 Japanese and American infantry. I will have to try them on my Naps and ACW . I’m trying out another brand I bought off amazon next
This a really good, simple method. I often find personally that a metallic sheen can also help when faking translucency, so replacing the black and grey with dark and bright silver tones, you can add a little extra punch to your glass.
For blue tack, I highly recommend Quakehold! Museum Wax and Museum Putty. Much better than average office supply blue tack. My current supply has lasted quite a few years.
This looks like a nice and effective technique, but it's too much of a "cartoony" look for my tastes. Plus it draws too much attention to the windows and away from the model. I think if going for a tabletop/wargaming quality, either transparent or the black/single shade color you show at the beginning of the video is good enough (in fact, actual photographs of helicopters or planes often look as if they had "black" glass); and if going for a realistic diorama look, I think one simply cannot avoid using proper transparent "glass". All of this in my opinion, of course.
Congratulations on 218 episodes. Really, has it been that many? How time flies. You are so right about how acrylic technologies have exploded over the last 2 decades. The curve is almost vertical. 😮 For windows and lenses, I have an ultra quick super cheat for you. First, I give the area to be treated a base coat of gloss black primer. Brand is not important, but give it plenty of time to dry. Now bring in the super weapon! From Green Stuff World, I use Cobolt Blue from their ColorShift metal range. Depending on the angle of light sources, it changes colour from a deep blue to a light blue. As the model moves or the viewer angle changes, so does the colour shift. People who have seen my models remark on how this effect somehow brings the model to life. However, like all techniques, this will not be to everyone's taste. I use it just for my tabletop models as I believe display models are for you to demonstrate your modelling and painting skills. The best thing about this technique is that it goes a long way to capture the changing reflections coming off glass, and it saves me a lot of time. Cheap and down and dirty, but highly effective. For protection, I use 2 coates of ultra gloss. The only drawback is if a panel gets scratched, you have to redo the whole panel, including the gloss black primer, as trying to patch it up is extremely obvious. Unfortunately, I haven't found a suitable colorshift for red, orange, and green lenses. Vallejo has also released a competing range, but nothing for my military lenses. Green Stuff World's website is www.greenstuffworld.com. Even out here in Australia, I can purchase their range of products from 2 different hobby stores. Well here's to the next 218 episodes. 😊🎉
Love it! I do a similar thing often using metallics to bring out the glass effect. If you can get them where you are, Arteza do a nice pack of 10 iridescent colours; my favourites include the two purples (one has a blue shift, the other more of a gold), Fancy Black (which has a brassy tint in the right light), and a red with a lovely pink reflection. I've painted a whole model car (a Transformer, actually) with the red, and I _love_ the effect it gives off.
Looks really good. How do you think the windows would look if you stayed on grey all the way through - grey Speedpaint at the end, maybe? Regards from Nottingham (yes, really)
Kinda pointless, IMHO, the main purpose of the blue is to tint the zenithal base. I guess you could use it to knock the color back to darker gray and it does help a bit smoothing the color transitions.
I often find sponsored reviews to be overly positive but yours seemed honest and straight to the point! Just leaves me with one question: Do they send additional technical pieces? Is it even a product designed to have the lights on every evening, or is the lighting more of an extra show feature? I love how it looks with the lights turned on but am worried about the durability of the electronics.
@@MiniatureLandscapeHobbies I read a bit into it an it's actually very weird. The L/68 on the card was proposed/intended for the casemate destroyer version of the E-100, where AT26 seems appropriate. For the tank version there was the proposal of the 15cm L/38 which is pretty much a naval gun with "low" velocity and lots of boom. I wonder what profile the casemate E-100 will get
Interesting, it seems to cover from 1944 through to the 60s. For me, I will wait for the late war expansion to FoW myself. I can't put my finger on it, but I don't really enjoy pure armour games. I much prefer full combined arms games. Thanks for going through the cards, as it gave me some insight into what to expect when they are added to FoW and Team Yankee.
Which tanks cards do you get in these starter sets? I know which minis are on the box but I would like to see all the tanks cards included in these sets.
How much of the Team Yankee stuff is the "new" hard plastic? My one and only experience with ABS was less than pleasant :). I think it was the ABS stuff from Battlefront, but there was so much flash on each figure that I just threw the pack out after trying to clean up the first 2 or 3 figures.
@@MiniatureLandscapeHobbies Thanks! I may spring for a box of the US Infantry...got more Soviets than I know what to do with. Backed a KS for some metal 15mm Soviets a couple of years ago, and still have plenty left :).
They are very nice looking 15mm figurines. When applying bushes and there is a blob white glue, try a drop of rubbing alcohol on it. It will disappear into the base while firmly gluing the bush.
The game is team Yankee. It’s a great system…it cuts across multiple time lines…the WWII version is called Flames of War. There is also a tank only version called Clash of steel. Thanks for the nice comments.
