Thanks Dude, I appreciate that! I do enjoy the videos where I'm kidding around so it's nice to hear you appreciate the humor. I'll keep making them. Ya, you should get started too. Thanks for the comment.
Ya it was definitely a mistake that they sent me four. I had my hopes up and ordered one more exactly the same way hoping a box of four would show up, but instead I got a padded envelope with just one lifter in a plastic bag. So then I had to order three more to make eight. I guess the first time I ordered one they must have just pulled the box of four off the shelf and thought that was right. Then they must have figured out their mistake by the time I ordered the second one. It seems like they only package them in boxes of four from the factory so when they sell them individually they have to open the box and put them in their own packaging. At least I got three of them for free. Wish I ordered two the first time. Edit - sorry I should have started that with no I ended up having to pay for four more individually. Anyway its kind of interesting because I noticed one of the 944 websites (can’t remember if it’s lindsey or maybe 944online) is selling them for like 90 or 100 bucks a piece and in the picture it looks like they take them out of the box of four and then stick them in their own little generic box. In a way it’s kinda messed up being that they’re lifters and you don’t want them to loose oil or get dirty, but I guess it’s better than 350 bucks a piece.
I replaced all 16 lifters on 16V 944 in 2013 with 034109309AD INA lifters,from German autoparts. £78 all in for me in the UK. Absolute bargain and they're still going strong. Having just looked online on the website they're still only $7 each!!!!
That’s cool, glad to hear they’re still working good. Yeah, I wish these one’s were only 7 bucks a piece that’s a really good price! Thanks for the comment!
Yeah it looks like a good time, and being able to chat with other owners would be really cool. Nice that it’s not too far away from where I live relatively speaking, but still a bit of a drive so still working on seeing if I can make it out there this year.
That's interesting. Were they originally made in Germany? I've seen a couple of listings for lifters that look a lot like these ones but they want like 400 bucks a piece. I assumed they were a different brand (I figured they were probably made in Germany) but maybe they are actually these ones just marked way up. I know some of the other ones I've found that are listed as original equipment Porsche lifters are also like 350 to 400 dollars a piece but are made by INA. Thanks for the info.
@@GameChanger-te8sw I’m not sure, there must be a bug or something. You might need to change the playback speed to normal in the RU-vid player if it’s screwed up for some reason.
really enjoying your vids while i restore my old '79na. so does your car not have a fuel accumulator back there?, it seems like you have a filter where there would be one...
Thanks, glad you’re enjoying the vids! Yep, it’s just a fuel filter. They changed the design in the later cars (924S/944) and for whatever reason didn’t need them anymore. I guess the check valve on the fuel pump and the return dampener that’s on the fuel rail is enough to not need one? Not sure to be honest but I do know my car isn’t supposed to have one. Thanks for the comment!
@@rybreadification ah thanks for the clarification :-) i'll probably be badgering you for info as i work my way through your other vids....just about to refurb my rusty old fuel tank and enjoying your one on that 👍👍
That's cool, I hope it works out well. A couple things I ended up doing later but didn't get to covering - I replaced the driver side solenoid with a "heavy duty" version I ordered separately later because the wiring In the one that came in the kit came loose/wasn't done right from the factory and the solenoid started acting up after a while, and then also just to be safe, I later ordered a whole extra kit when I saw the same kit marked down to like 20 bucks on Amazon because I figured if the electric box ever went bad, I could just unplug it and then easily swap in a new one. Hopefully I'll never need it, it works great and I've actually never had a problem with it besides the thing with the driver side solenoid, but since you're doing the same thing, I thought I'd tell you about the solenoid in case it saves you some trouble. You might just want to use a better one to start if you're using one of the cheap kits like I did. I just ordered a generic 5 wire heavy duty version of the same style and it works perfectly.....Hopefully you can get your hatch working, I messed with mine a while back - I tried positive trigger, negative trigger, nothing seemed to work. From what I can tell, I'm not getting a pulse out of the system - not sure what the deal is with that yet. Let me now if you get your hatch working! Thanks 4 the comment!
Well, it's been a while, but yeah, you just pull on it. I don't remember, you may have to pinch it - there might be like plastic tabs that you have to squeeze, but I don't think so, I think you just have to pull on it, if I remember right. I remember thinking the same thing, and then I think I figured out you just have to pull on it. Maybe try sort of shaking or rocking it a little as you pull. And if you need to, use a pliers, but be careful not to crush or crack the plastic plug. Edit - pull on the plastic plug, not the wires. Just in case I thought I'd throw that in there.
Kids, don't forget to disconnect the battery before removing the starter which has live wires. I have the flywheel lock made by Bruce at Arnnworx Tools before he closed shop. It is perfect in every way.
I am, he’s in good hands! Definitely a special little bird and very loving like you say. I definitely love the little guy. (Well I think it’s a guy now) and he’s growing up fast. That’s cool you have some. Thanks for the comment!
You're welcome, glad it helps! Still got mine taken apart - need to find a puller. Gonna try replacing some of the seals behind the pulleys. Nice to hear you're restoring one of these cars, I hope your project goes well on the 86. Thanks 4 the comment (and the pet comment too)!
Great video. Good information. I had the flywheel lock from 944online. I used the factory bolts. I half remember moving things just a fuzz to get the teeth in place but I felt good when it was done. And I used a dowel to get the #1 cyl close to tdc and then switched to a dial caliper down the cylinder to get the actual tdc perfect. Getting the belt in the right location is the next challenge and proper tightness. I used the 90 degree twist method and the spin the water pump trick (pulley should move but hard to spin) from edredas and then used a clicker tool to triple check tightness. Great video. It’s like pro quality.
Thanks Schrockahasibros1490, I really appreciate that! That makes sense to use the dial indicator to hit TDC perfectly. I've been meaning get one for a while now, that's a good point to use it for that. It's also good to know you used a clicker for the tension. I was thinking I'd just use the twist method and then see how it sounds, but maybe I'll get one of those too. I watch the Edredas videos too - lot's of good info. Thanks again!
I need more Mr. Quackers in my life. Great jump on the leak. I thought for sure you were going to hit it with a can of paint after that work cleaning it up! Thanks for sharing.
Ya, he's pretty cute - thanks Frank. Well to be honest, I'm not actually sure if he's a he or a she...decided not to traumatize him(or her) by trying to figure it out, so I guess we'll see. And ya, that's funny cause I did have the thought I should hit this with paint since I'm doing this, but then just left it instead. Oh well, at least it's clean:). You're welcome, thanks Frank!
I am in the middle of this very same project. Love this video. I keep coming back to it. Thanks man. Question: in the photo of the other tank it shows a block of foam near the filler neck. Did you skip that? If no, where did you source it from? I’m hearing mixed things from people about the need for that foam block.
You're welcome, I'm glad you like the video! I hope yours goes well. For the time being, I skipped it. I'm not sure why, but for whatever reason my car didn't have that foam piece around the filler neck. I'm not sure if someone removed it before I bought the car, or if it never came with one. If it was originally there, I think they must have pulled it out from the top because It didn't seem like the tank had ever been removed. I might just leave it out, but what I was planning to do, (thought I'd already have done it, but honestly haven't gotten there yet) is when I bolt that sheetmetal cover down for good, (I've got it bolted down now but not with the new roll of butyl I bought back when I did this video) is take a can of expanding spray foam, and spray it down around the top of the filler neck and basically make my own foam piece with that, then bolt that cover down with the new butyl. It won't be soft like the foam that's in that picture, but I think it should do the job. My guess is they put it there for road noise? The only thing is it will stick to everything if I ever need to remove it, so I'll have to scrape it out of there if I ever need to access those clamps. I was thinking about maybe covering the top of the tank/hoses with masking tape or something else first (Saran Wrap?) then spraying in the foam on top of that so it won't stick to things, just fill up the space, but I'm not sure yet. Something that won't absorb water or stay wet would be ideal. The can of foam I got for that has been sitting there on my shelf for a couple years now too.
Thanks. I hadn’t thought of doing that. Interesting idea. I might look into that. One more q: as you’re fitting hoses on to the tank or the hard line connections, did you put any glue on the connections or are you only relying on hose clamps? It looks like you’re not but wanted to be sure. I just dropped my tank and disassembled it this weekend and trying to make sure I understand everything I need to do before attempting reassembly as I wait for a parts shipment. Really appreciate what you’ve done here. Very grateful for this video and your insights.
No,problem, glad to be of help. Nope, I just put the hoses on and tightened them with the clamps. The rubber seal thing that goes between the main large filler hose and the inlet on the top of the tank was cracked a little bit so I used super glue on the edges where it was cracked and just held it together and glued it back together, then put that back between the big hose and the tank inlet, but besides that, no, I didn’t put anything between the hoses and the tank, just tightened them down with the clamps. I guess it worked out well because I haven’t had a leak or smelt any gas since.
Take a copper tube and slam it flat with a hamer. Than sharpen it. The copper is soft to your aluminium intake and you can easy clean the surface without cutting your finger or something. Succes!!
Thanks Frank, I appreciate that. Ya, it's funny, I stood there for a couple hours just looking at those vacuum lines (and taking pictures) and still felt a little weary about it, but it's like you say, if you take it one step at a time, eventually it starts to make more sense, and then before you know it, it's all back together.
Great video. I actually had a vacuum leak coming from the dipstick o ring, and that was with a new replacement o ring too - i think they come undersized. Only found it after buying a cheap smoke machine.
Thanks Seagrams! That’s interesting yours leaking there. Ya, it’s kind of a weird setup how they designed that. I wonder what size o ring they’d send you if you ordered one from straight Porsche. Thanks 4 the comment!
Hey man awesome video, you should really consider getting a cheap 3d printer. You can grab one for like 100 bucks used and most of these mount designs are available for free. I have like 20 printed parts in my 944 and they work great! It will save your hours of making trim pieces.
Thanks Peter! You know, I think it would be a good thing for me to get. It would be pretty cool to just be able to print some stuff. I've been meaning to teach myself or get some guidance with auto cad (kicking myself for not taking it in high school) and even downloaded a free copy a couple of months ago, but the trial period is over on that now. Do you have any recommendations for auto cad programs? Is it pretty easy to download the designs and print them without knowing what I'm doing, or do you think I should teach myself that first? Thanks for leaving this comment, as you might be able to tell I've got a ton of questions about this.
@@rybreadification honestly most things have models and are readily available just slice and print and I use a free online CAD called TinkerCAD it’s not the greatest but you can get the basics in a more learning friendly environment. I’m probably gonna go to Fusion360 eventually but for now it’s more than sufficient. If you are serious I would definitely go for a Bambulabs or pursa as they have the most online support and resources
Cool. Thanks for info. It's something I've alway been interested in, but just never got any further with because of the cost of the printers back when I looked at them years ago, and not knowing where to start with a CAD program. Looks like there are some decent printers on craigslist for 100-200 bucks like you said, so I'll probably start with one of those. The TinkerCAD looks like a good program also, so I'll probably start there. I see Fusion360 is free for at home use, so that's cool too. Aside from printing stuff for the Porsche, I think it will be a cool project/thing to work on with my nephew, so I'm going to start looking for a printer. There's quite a few projects I have in mind that it would be nice just to know a CAD program for also. Thanks for the info and recommendations, It's nice to get some advice and a have a place to start!
@@rybreadification if I can give you some advice. Get good filament, I always use Esun PLA+ for basic not weight bearing parts. Don’t get sucked into additive filaments they don’t really help and are a complete pain. Petg is fussy to get started but is a great material if you want to get more serious. Good luck and happy printing
@peterjackson1426 thanks for the info. I was was wondering about the filaments with stuff added, and also what to use in general so that’s good to know. Thanks again!
Check the big air intake hose between the MAF and Throttle Body for small cracks, they often go bad. Also on the bottom of the air intake hose and if that hose isn't tight and sealed well it will run like crap and act like it's flooded. I had the hose pop off on my 944 and it wouldn't run at all. (Sounds like you found the problem though.) Other problem areas on these 37+year old cars all fuel related items one being the Fuel Pressure regulator on the fuel rail and the Fuel Pressure Damper at the other end of the fuel rail by the distributor end. If that starts to fail car may run bad or not at all. The way to check that is to pull the small vacuum hose off and smell for gas, should be no smell. I got a non-runner the owner paid mechanics to fix and couldn't find that problem thinking it was a fuel pump issue, nope. Good Luck. Great Videos btw.
I think it should be good now with the new hoses, but I guess we’ll see. That’s interesting you found the bad fuel regulator on your car. I actually had to fix that same problem right after I got mine. My car ran well right when I bought it, but started to run rough shortly there after. It sat for a long time before I bought it. Turns out that was the problem. I think it was the return dampener (regulator) that went bad first if I remember right. It was just like you said - it smelt like gas when I pulled off the vacuum line, and I think mine was even wet with fuel. I assumed the seal inside there went bad, so I replaced them both and it ran well until this thing with hose. Everything else looks good, but like you said, it’s old so I wouldn’t be surprised if something else pops up. Thanks for the comment/info schrockahasibros1490. All good things to look for/consider.
THIS. I have a 924NA and this is the problem. I took off the hose (has a huge crack) and I am replacing it tomorrow. Very excited and hopefully this will fix my problem!
I noticed the hose that cracked on mine is the one hose that is completely made of rubber, (it appears to be injection molded) while all the other hoses that appear to still be good, are all made like radiator hoses with webbing imbedded in them. Hope your fix turns out well!
@@rybreadification It turned out great! I swapped the old out with the new today and my car is running great. I have a ground issue still and a vacuum leak from my oil cap causing misfires, but other than that the 924 is rearing to go!
Nice, glad to hear that worked out! I’ve read about the ground issues on these cars - I should probably go through mine soon. Seems like there’s a number of little things like that that kind of consistently need to be addressed once these cars get to a certain age. I hope you’re project keeps going well!
Thank you for the tips brother. I am thinking to install a switched dashcam this summer - I will prob do something similar. Clever thinking with the putty; might be a good material to waterproof relay holders and other exposed pins
No Problem. Glad you might find a use for it. Yeah that's the nice thing about the mold putty is you can shape it/protect something but it doesn't stick/get into everything like the regular silicone in a tube. Thanks again 4 the comment!
Yeah, it's definitely a little hard to get to. Also kind of interesting the clamp (at least on my car) needed a screwdriver and doesn't have a hex head on it. Thanks 4 the comment!
The secret weapon for that I found is this socket flex extension tool that looks like a spring. Use a screwdriver that has a square socket end and swap to a worm clamp that has a hex.
That sounds like a good tool to have, I'll have to get one of those. I ended up replacing that clamp with one of the hex headed clamps that came in the hose kit when I put it back together too, so I could see it coming in really handy for that in the future. Thanks 4 the comment!
I’m doing well, thanks Ryan. I also have a table full of new parts ready to get going on some work (replace alternator bushings, rear CV boots, front bump stops, window felts, bleed brakes). The car came out last week but we got another snow dump today so will delay until it warms up a bit on the weekend. Maybe I’ll try to record some of it! 😊 Looking forward to the next episode!
Nice. I shot video a couple of years ago when I pulled apart my cv joints and greased them but ended up moving on to other stuff and never made a episode out of it. Let me know if you have questions when you get there if I haven’t posted it by then. Yeah, I’ve got all kinds of parts now too. Here’s to a summer of us working on our Porsche’s!
These are the ones I bought. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08VMRDD2M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08T74X9HH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P8QXJ5X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1
Thanks, I really appreciate that! Yeah, It was nice to be able to get the parts from them, and I really like how they have the drawings/diagrams on their website. Thanks for the comment - I’ll keep it rolling!
very cool. i was 100% sure right at 14:25 that razor blade was going to shoot straight into your finger. I actually reflexively jumped while watching the video because i thought for sure it was going to get sliced! great stuff. nothing better than an audio upgrade that you can enjoy and remember every time you get in the car.
You know, you're right, I could have covered that. That strainer and the aluminum part that thread into the tank come as whole and are available as a regular service part. You can find them pretty cheap if you look hard enough - so rather than trying to clean or replace the fabric mesh on the strainer, it just makes sense to buy a new one. If you look up the part, (I think it's listed as a fuel tank filter or strainer) you'll see it comes pressed together with the new strainer and they aren't that hard to find. I think the one I got cost less than 20 bucks. I think because it's basically like a fuel filter I forgot about it/didn't cover it. One more thing - I put anti-seize on the threads when I threaded it into the tank. I've seen it where they get rusted into the tank, so It makes sense to put anti-seize or at least some kind of grease on there when you screw it in so it comes out easily in the future.
one thing I always try to do if I wind up using electrical tape in a car is put a small zip tie around the two ends of the wrap. You've probably experienced some old electrical tape that has been in a hot car that gets all gooey and starts to slide around. So, the zip ties can help make sure that as the adhesive on that tape starts to fail, it doesn't slide up and down the wire. Great job man!
Thanks! Nope, I just went for it. I had a general idea of how manual transmissions/transaxles work, but actually never been inside of one. After my buddy Jeff helped me tear it down, I had a lot better idea of what I needed to do. Then I just found a pdf of a Porsche transaxle manual online and spent some time studying that before working on it/putting it back together. Definitely a good learning experience.
Thanks Jeremy! De rien! Yes, that's a good point about not needing special tools. I considered doing a partial or full rebuild while I had it apart, but you do need special tools for that, so I decided to reassemble it and see how it does. Thanks again!
