CHECK THE LOCAL VOLTAGE! I was using 230v and thought it was weird that I had to move the extruder to power on the whole machine. It was working fine for a while until it suddenly stopped turning on. I watched multiple youtube videos to find out what was possibly wrong and almost bought a 51 dollar power supply to replace it. Then, i stumbled onto a short showcasing the printer, working after flipping the local voltage. I thought to myself "theres no possible way," and flipped it to 115v. The printer turned on without even having to move the extruder... I may be stupid, but im grateful for my luck.
Both mine stopped working. I just replaced fuse 18. The 2 15 amp fuses were the first ones I checked. But if u have anymore issues with non working headlights. Try the fuse in the cabin on 18. I have same exact car. Have u had reverse light issues cuz mine won't work. Can't figure out if it's worse or what.
hi i have an ender3 pro . i replaced the power supply and new board . i get 24 volts ont the board and blue led lids up. heat bed and temp works but none of the motors move . i hear a dof sound when powering up the printer . what can it be the error ? thanks
Great question! The answer is "kind of, but not really". This article www.subaruforester.org/threads/one-headlight-bright-others-dim-its-probably-a-fuse.6139/ gives the best explination I could find. You might want to take a look. Hope it helps.
Again, I'll mimic the other poster. Outstanding tutorial. Your side comments and insights are invaluable. Might I suggest a little "tweek" that I picked up from another video. Place M4 nuts (or jam nuts) on the four,(4) bed bolts mounted on the heat bed. Torquing these down gently will eliminate any future wobble during printing. Our bed springs or silicon dampeners fit right over them so no other adjustments are needed.
Excellent video! I'm far from high school at 70 but at this age, your tutorials are priceless! I discovered a slight twist in that 4040 center extrusion which has given me a binding on my dual "Y" axis linear rails. Have you found this on any of your builds or your students? It isn't noticeable using the stock build plate using the wheels, thereby crating a mysterious challenge in bed leveling! I have ordered a replacement extrusion and hope that this one is flat. Again, many thanks for your videos!
Helpful video my man I’m a ford tech but drive a journey my subframe broke in half and I used you as a guide I wasn’t changing the rack the so I separated it from the subframe and hooked it back to the knuckle when I dropped what was left of the subframe
Love the video def. A big thank you for this. Tutorial video. But I want to ask why did you replace the rack what was wrong with it that you replaced it?
My pump went out. I dont have the money or right equipment to work on this right now. I'm curious of your thoughts on a temporary bypass? If i can find a belt the right size and skip the PS pump for a month or so. It seems possible but I'm just curious to any potential long term damage it could do
@Pals Place Definitely what i'm trying to do is install a female and so that I can power different type devices and I want to put at least four bank power usb hub. I'm running Octo4 on a old phone..trying to get the power required for it. It's a Samsung a10e ..I can't root it for kipper but it's running octoprint fine
Did you unsnap the white clips on the inside by the floorboards? After you unsnap those, you should just be able to push it down through from the top and then the boot comes out with the rack.
my magnetic bed scratches the plastic on the side of power supply. my frame is square.. i guess i can live with it at long as its not putting stress on the y axis,, or slowing anything down.
I had a similar issue. To fix it, I started using an 1/8" thick mirror and hairspray as the printbed instead of the magnetic bed cover. I hold the mirror to the bed with mini binder clips. Works great! I had the mirror cut at the local glass shop for 4 bucks. Made it the same size as the aluminum bed.
It's a pain. Our rack is fine, but the engine cradle (frame section) was fully rotted out. We're in the middle of the assemble. I left the rack in place and dropped the frame section. (As a precaution, We had the rack supported on jack stands to keep it from pulling down on the assembly to hard while we took several days away from the project.) As I'm watching the "marks" on the frame assembly. Didn't do that on ours. Then again our frame was junked and being replaced :-)
I feel ya. However, am replacing both exhaust manifold on a Ford 6.7 super duty that makes this one look like child's play. Been at it 4 days and hope to finish it up tomorrow. Yeesh!
This is a real video and exactly how working on a car goes. One thing always leads to another and nothing is ever as easy as "loosen some nuts" Good video
I have one Fiat Freemont on my auto service shop, and it have hard steering whell, but without noise. I fixed the steering wheel box and now, with low speed, the steering is good, but moving the steering wheel fast, it stay heavy.
@@GfrigoP The steering wheel was very hard to turn while driving. There was no power assist at all. Mine didn't have any noise either. This helped, but didn't fix the problem. It ended up being a steering rack replacement, which is why I made the video about that as well. Good luck with yours!
Thank you for making this video to help navigate through this nightmare job. Its sad to say but American cars today are in the back seat when it comes to quality in manufacturing. Its no wonder why Asian cars are so well known for their reliability and serviceability and have overtaken everyone else.
@@palsplace once again thanks, today I have changed my pump according to Your suggestions. One item, in my car on the pump is additional heat cover which I didn't see on video.
I thought my it was just my tie rods. Looks like my rack is toast too. Thanks for the walk through. More than a few tips here that'll save me quite a bit of frustration. Thanks.
