@@creativemakerat If you dig further into the matter: So far, I have not found a study about the accuracy of those sensors. Maybe you know one, or you run your own one...
This is a standard warning from the slicer, as the G-code has been slightly adapted in the print profile. More precisely - the fan speed has been reduced. You can view the G-Code under Filament Settings / Advanced. Speed reduced from maximum PWM value of 255 to 50. I hope that helps.
Sabes si puedo combinar filamento flexible con un short diferente, necesito uno bien flexible con otro un poco más duro, es para hacer una funda de teléfono y quiero que la base sea más dura
I'm not exactly sure what the phone case should look like, but if you need to switch between filaments multiple times, in my opinion, there's no way around using the AMS. There are videos where users have modded the X1C to make TPU work in the AMS.
how do you do if you only what to print the first 3 layer with petg then tpu. and that the 3d model is just download from thingiverse? thanks in advance
I've never tried with models from thingiverse. But i think the procedure is the same. Just add a pause after the first three layers and change the material. Idk if you have seen the update to this video, it's about TPU with PETG: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-htSE6qv_hSk.html Please let us know if it worked.
Unfortunately, I can't answer this question as I only own the X1C. But from what I've read online and here in the comments, the X1C doesn't seem to be the best choice for TPU. Perhaps someone else can answer or make recommendations.
Hi, I saw you used GPIO36 to read battery voltage but I don't see any connection between battery + and GPIOs, do the firebeetle has a built in connection to monitor battery voltage?
The DFR0478 (FireBeetle ESP32) has an on board voltage divider. This information can be found in the data sheet (product wiki page -> schematics). This voltage divider can be connected to A0 (GPIO36). Therefore you have to bridge R10 and R11. I show this in detail in a previous episode of this series: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qE35_fPxOck.html (minute 8:47). Hope this helps.
I don’t have much long-term experience yet, except for the sensor in my houseplant. After six months, it still looks just like it did at the start. I’m currently setting up a test setup for my garden - more details will be shared in the fourth part of the series. For this test, now I’ve also coated the sensors on the side with protective lacquer to prevent the fiberglass from absorbing water. We’ll see over the next year how well the sensors hold up.
Why do you need the two different filament types in the slicer? Can’t you just add the pause change it manually and continue. Is it so that the printer does the purge tower?
You’re right, you could try using just one profile. However, there are some small differences between the two profiles, such as the density. For ASA, the maximum volumetric speed is also significantly higher, which speeds up the printing process. If you decide to try it with just one filament, I’d love to hear about your experience. The purge tower isn’t necessary. There’s an update to this video where I mention this - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-htSE6qv_hSk.html
I noticed that placement of the sensor critically affects it's measurement, so much so that I would not recommend anyone to try to use this sensor to take serious readings, I had to place my sensors very close to the water source where I would be guaranteed that the soil would wet, not just moist but wet, In my case Im using the Ads1115 converter because I need the extra channels and Im not constrain by power, and I read the values in range between 0 and 100% and to be honest after days of fiddling with there sensors I've come to the conclusion that for my case they are only useful to detect if my plants have been irrigated or not by detecting a sharp increase in the readings, sort of like an on - off sensor I was expecting more but that's all I could get out of them...
Thank you very much for sharing your experience. I’m currently working on a setup to test the sensors outside, but so far, I’ve only had experience with indoor plants. Where are you using your sensors - in an indoor or outdoor setting? Also, which sensor have you been using? There are different types available, and unfortunately, some faulty devices too. Have you seen my second video from this episode, where I compared different sensors - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-b9j9IffGZEs.html There’s a significant difference in sensitivity between them. That said, I think a binary output-just indicating whether watering is needed or not, is often sufficient. Of course, it would be nice to have percentage values to control the watering duration, but for me, that’s more of a “nice to have” feature. We’ll see how things turn out when the test setup for the garden is finished. Thanks again for your insights!
@@creativemakerat My setup is indoor, the soil is from the same batch, the pots are all the same and under the same light conditions with good thermal insulation and steady airflow, I also log the data to influxdb (every 10 minutes) and use grafana for the dashboards... And by looking at the data I concluded that the most relevant information I could get out the the sensor Is the sharp rise in the adc readings after watering the plants, I couple that reading with a flow meter from the pump to the sprinklers and that's how I make sure the automated system executed the scripts correctly. Every sensor I brought was missing the connection between gnd and the 1m discharge resistor, which I fixed with a wire.
@@BenjaminMaggi Thanks for the details. i just can recommend testing this sensor: amzn.to/3XT8WMj (affiliate link). The sensitivity is ~3 times higher.
I had the same problem and went the route to design a complete ESP pcb to use the cheap capacitive sensors. It uses an ESP32-WROOM-1 to a 600mAh LiFePo4 AA cell and I get roughly a year of runtime. The WROOM has a relatively high deep sleep consumption, so deep sleep isn't used but a RTC with a power consumption of only 44nA. The ESP32-S3 has a much better deep sleep consumption and should be used instead. If you aren't bound to ESP, the nRF chips are even better in that regard. Cutting of the power of the sensor is important, but the sensor also requires around 3 seconds to settle for stable values. In your programming, you can power on the sensor, wait 3 seconds while the ESP goes into light sleep. After reading the value, turn off the sensor and activate Wifi. Preferably use ESPNOW or Bluetooth to send data, as this requires way less power for reduced air time. Be careful with these sensors, some of them have an old NE555 that does not work on 3.3V and requires at least 4.5V. Even if the Amazon listing tell you it's 3.3V, don't trust it. There should be a TLC555 or LMC555 on it which only requires 1.5V to work. Best to test with a bench power supply and a multimeter. I wouldn't even trust the marking on the chip. To make use of the 5V versions I got, I made a new PCB which adds a buck/boost converter. While the battery voltage drops over time, the sensor data will change with the input voltage of the sensor. You need a stable power source. If I had known that earlier, I would have bought some ready made one which can be reflashed with an open firmware. I just forgot the name of them.
Thanks for the detailed tips and explanations! So if i got it right, we can reduce the 10-second wait time to 3 seconds to allow charging of the capacitor? That would save a lot of time. Another good idea is to cut the sensor power immediately after reading the values. About faulty sensors - tried to cover that in the first video of the series ;-) Regarding the power supply, since we're now supplying power through the GPIO pin, the voltage should be stable, right? Or is that not the case?
@@creativemakerat Sorry, I'm new to your channel and did not see the previous one (yet). I measured the stabilize time by recording the output pin on an oscilloscope after applying the input voltage. None of my sensors took longer than around 2,5 seconds. I didn't even think of powering the sensor directly with a gpio and used a mosfet to switch the sensor. I guess if you power your esp with li-ion then you certainly have a regulator to 3.3V. Above 3.6 kills the esp. The only case the gpio would then go below 3.3V if the battery falls under it, except you have a fancy buck/boost regulator. Just look up the chip in the datasheet. If not, the ESP still runs down to 2.8V in my tests. You should have a fairly long time staying above 3.3V, but then the output value of the sensor also goes down. In my design, I chose the LiFePo to get rid of the regulator to save on sleep current. In this case, this wasn't the best idea I had.
Some more things to note: Remove all LEDs from the MCU boards and sensors (LEDs draw some mA). The programmer chip also drains quite a bit! It looks like that you considered this already. I guess that you mentioned it in another video. I just wanted to say it again in case sb. watches this video only. Transmitting data (BLE, Wifi) drains a lot of power, too. So it's wise to store the data and then send as packet once per day. Moreover, whenever you can, use interrupts to wake up your MCU only when needed. More potential for savings would be switching to a chip like nrf52840. They're more costly and not as common but still well supported as some Adafruit products use them.
Thanks for the tips! I think DFR does a really good job with the layout of their boards. Unlike many of the cheaper options, someone actually considered power consumption. I’m not familiar with the NRF chip, though I come from the ESPHome 'plug & play' side of things, which is why i use ESP boards. Can the NRF chip be used with Home Assistant? Probably with MQTT? Thanks again for the helpful advices!
I like the fact that you explain the datasheets. Datasheets are such a great information source, they can be, however, intimidating. One has to learn how to read them. When you explain them, people get more used to reading such documentation! There's so much important information hidden behind acronyms.
Thank you! To be honest, I was a little unsure whether I should cut this part out of the video as it can be a bit dry and boring. And since I'm not an expert, I was a bit afraid of misexplaining something. I'm glad to hear that you find it helpful.
Great video! A possible optimisation is to replace the static delay between deep sleeps with a more dynamic approach. I implemented a “Deep Sleep Switch” in ESPHome, which triggers the sensor to enter deep sleep when activated. In Home Assistant, I set up a helper that checks if the most recent sensor reading is less than a couple of seconds old. This allows for an automation that sends the sensor into deep sleep immediately after Home Assistant receives the data. Disabling this automation keeps the sensor awake, enabling updates or edits during the next wake-up cycle. Additionally, you can further reduce the sensor’s active time by assigning a static IP and enabling the fast_connect Wi-Fi option in ESPHome.
Thank you for the tip! That’s a brilliant idea - I never would have thought of it. We actually added the helper button in the first part of the series, but only to allow for OTA updates. Having HA send the sensor back into deep sleep after receiving the data is a really smart approach. Maybe adding a timeout in case HA is offline could prevent the sensor from staying in wake mode? Thanks also for the suggestion about using a static IP and enabling fast_connect. I’ll definitely check that out! 😃
@@creativemakerat Yes, that could be a good fail-safe. However, it might affect the sensor’s ability to stay awake for updates and edits. To address this, you could set the fail-safe timeout to be “long enough” and implement a notification that triggers when the sensor wakes up and the deep sleep automation is disabled, giving you time to perform updates before the fail-safe activates.
Yes, you're absolutely right-there's definitely room for optimization here! Especially with the capacitor charging time, I think there's potential for improvement. It would be worth taking a closer look at the sensor itself.
Just found your channel, Oida! Nice work! I did my Bachelor's Thesis on that topic with OpenSprinkler open HW & SW but was running into some kind of buffer overflow (on the esp8266), when adding the libraries for INA and SHT31, as well as the MQTT publishing. I still think (as OS has an api) it might save you some time, if not directly, then maybe as template or inspiration. Furthermore, have you looked into Mi Flora Plant Care Sensor, or the Miyo Sensor S2? You could add a small solar panel to your soil humidity sensor (like miyo did), to make it autonomous. Finally, maybe you want to look into applying conformal coating to the edges of the pcb, if they haven't already. Otherwise, moisture can slowly seep into the pcb from the raw cut fiberglass edge. I've had limited success with nail polish, I'd use epoxy or the like if I'd do it again.
Thank you so much, glad you like my project! I was already familiar with the Mi Flora sensor, but the Miyo sensor is new to me - thanks for the tip. I had read about coating the PCB edges before, and I plan to cover that in the #4 part of the series, when buiolding a prototype. I was thinking of using conformal coating (422C) instead of epoxy since it's more liquid and might seal the fiberglass better through capillary action. What do you think about that?
@@creativemakerat I'm looking forward to that. - Sounds like fun! You might already know it: For solar, Andreas Spiess's (sensorslot) superpower project Discord has a link to a Gdrive with cool Power Systems BOMs & schematics, including one for solar with the LTC4162 charging ic. MPPT might not be necessary.
How to combine TPE with materials like ABS, ASA, PA12, and etc? I need to print one object which must be hard and durable but the tops surface must be soft and not to scratch PMMA material which is put on top of this object - so is it possible or did someone test it?
Sorry, i have not tested any other combinations except with ASA: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-P0DD_ik4N4I.htmlsi=d32E4JqD1Uoip0L3 @Willis3DDruck [German] created a video where he combined ABS with TPU: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5soAu6cinP0.html
@@creativemakerat Thank you for the response. For now I have successfully combined PP with TPE, I tried with PETG to combine TPE but with no success for now. Now I'm trying ABS and TPE, hopefully it will stick well. But TPE needs low speeds to print successfully, alone or combined. I tested ABS and TPU, but on 100% speed, it was acceptable result, maybe I must reduce the speed also for the TPU. Al the test are done on CreatBot F430. Very good machine.
Thank you Creativemaker. But is there a TPU profile from Bambulab though ? All I see is the different materials in Filament tab. In Process tab though there are only the standard profiles for I guess PLA or what ? How can I print at the same speed PLA and PETG ? There should be specific Process profiles for all the different filament categories..
I'm not entirely sure I understood the question correctly. The profile also changes the print speed settings in the process tab (as shown at 8:42). However, what I've learned in the meantime is that the easiest way to control the speed is simply by reducing the volumetric speed in the filament settings tab.
@@creativemakerat The TPU profile from Printables has custom speeds and settings, I can see it. What I'm saying is if there is any Process profile from Bambu Studio for different filaments. For example the default speeds in Bambu Studio are approximately 270 mm/sec. If I select a TPU filament with a specific volumetric speed (let's say 3mm^3/sec) will the profile adjust all the speed settings in Process Tab to match the higher determined speed ?
I don't normally leave comments, but I had to watch this video. I sincerely hope that your channel will surface soon. I wish you a lot of views and subscribers. I will definitely watch part 2 because I was blown away by this one. I hope you will make more sensors for HA, thank you very much for the detailed explanation of everything you do
I've just had some success with the Overture HighSpeed 95A TPU.... Including working in the AMS - with very minor modifications and tricking it with a non-TPU profile but with TPU settings. Quite minor stringing at 12mm3 - credit to the profiles on Printables for getting me started.
That sounds very promising! What exactly did you change in the AMS? I've seen several solutions before, but unfortunately, they were not very reliable and often ended up with clogged extruders.
Hi. You don't need the prime tower at all. Just disable it in the settings. For further details, check out this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-htSE6qv_hSk.html. In the video, I explain why the Prime Tower isn't necessary and show you how to deactivate it (chapter "Optimization One").
I almost don't dare to answer Started the second part back then but never finished it - unfortunately I don't have the time and the whole project is in the drawer. I'm still completely covered with work over the summer and I hope that I'll have some time to do crafts again in September. But i'm going to finish this 🙃 As many of you asked - the clear winner is the large sensor from DF Robot . The two ESP boards from DF Robot are also much better in terms of energy consumption. Sorry for the huge delay and thanks for all the support, I really appreciate it.
Love that video but it will be so much paint to make a part where the infill is ASA and the shell is TPU 😩 What I want to do it making some car parts with TPU as the shell so I will not make rattle noise in the car when the bass hits!!!
I'm trying to build this project and I have ESP-WROOM-32 ESP32 ESP-32S Development Board 2.4GHz Dual-Mode WiFi + Bluetooth Dual Cores Microcontroller Processor Integrated with Antenna RF AMP Filter AP STA Compatible with Arduino IDE . Which implementation should I use? Thanks in advance.
I recommend the large sensor from DF Robot (Soil mositure sensor v2). Guessing your board comes from Amazon (at least that's the page it gave me when I searched for it on Google). I couldn't find a schematic for this, so I would suggest that you measure the battery voltage with a voltage divider (as shown in the video with the Sparkfun board). In the second part of the series I will explain how the INA3221 can be used to measure energy consumption in detail (but that will take until I finish the video). Thank you for your interest and let me know if it worked.
This is very impressive. I am waiting for the second part, and I am very interested by this. I tried commercial sensors from sonoff, and they are nothing but disappointment, I won't bother to elaborate on this here. I have one question: any idea about the range for such a sensor? Your garden looks large enough in your introduction. Do you also consider external antenas? Greetings from Switzerland (French speaking side)
I think that depends on a few factors. On the one hand, which access points are used and how good the “line of sight” is. On the other hand, of course, it depends on the board used and the general design of the sensor. In short, I think you can only find out through testing once the prototype is ready. I'll definitely try to test the range (when the time comes) - thanks for the question.
Genau das was ich gesucht habe. Ich habe auch bereits die ersten Versuche mit den einfachen Sensoren von Amazon und Ali gemacht. Absoluter Reinfall. Hoffe das zweite Video kommt bald.
Thank you for the video! The profile you mention on Printables eliminated my stringing problems so it's worth the extra print time. Have you tried to successfully print tpu 85A?
