just got back from the dealer who is trying to find a vibration issue and they quoted 1760 to do i just about died and said no... will attempt it now that i have watched your video, side question what intake is that?
I love that orange. I got a '17 TT in Vegas Yellow and i love it. I put an APR stage 1 and intake in it. It seems like the mk3 stage 1 in both Unitronic and APR adds quite a bit more power than the stage one in the TTS mk 2. I'm not sure if that's the case or not with the mk2 TT or not. Been looking for a decent exhaust replacement but it's very hard to find on the mk3 TTs for some reason. And the few you can find don't have any sort of sound clips or videos.
Great video! Maybe a fuel catastrophic kit next. Maybe they send you a free one by pluging whitbread performance , the seller. Fairly easy job but the intake needs to come off. 👍. Amzon has some hanging shop lighta L.E.D. s that are very light and cheap and hold up well thats what i have used
i wonder if a good fuel cleaner would help clean this part. I have the 2.5 tune mine rolls coal way worse than when it was on the stage 2. not sure it's worth 400-500$ to replace this part honestly.
Check rock auto - I got mine for less than 200$! I wouldn’t say a fuel cleaner won’t help but looking at it from a mechanical understanding if the internal components are worn your firing against a mechanical issue not something just being dirty
The airbox thing might be true about the stock ones except that many are huge PIAs to deal with. I swapped a cone filter just to make maintenance easy. Turbo whoosh whoosh I could care less about.
I did some looking and lots of the cheap Amazon one are the right size and have the right adapters I believe. How’s your oil pressure? Did you notice a drop at all with the extra capacity? I’m interested in adding a bigger cat filter.
Stellar! I am following your foot prints, Stage 1 now, DPF delete pipe is in the trunk waiting for some free time and good temps to install. Then I need to figure out if I do EGR delete or keep it as is. I may have some coolant leaking but we don't know for sure just yet, the expansion tank was a bit low but I don't know how long its been that way.
Question for the guys: I’m planning to buy a Golf 6 as my first car. I’m almost 17 (I’m a Belgian, so here you can only drive a car if you are 17 or older). Is it worth it to mod my first car already? I’d like to put an R-kit on it and some new wheels probably too. Don’t know what I’m about to do with the exhaust. Thanks
@@ThatGuyTyyIdk I couldn’t take the key out when I had my car in neutral for some reason, I had the key in the ignition turned to the left so the car was off but when I connected the power to the display there was a faint smoke from the motherboard. I also connected the ac climate panel connector towards the end, not sure if that was part of the issue but now the display doesnt turn on.
@Beatinu yeah the ignition should be fully off when connecting anything to the cluster as with key on or activating any information it should be sending power - not sure if there’s a fuse in the back but I’d start there. Mine is push to start so when I’m in neutral I can still key off, but when I do it alerts to put the car in park till I do which could have been your issue when reconnecting as it also powers the speaker in the cluster
@@ThatGuyTyy ahhh I got it man, I blew the 7.5 amp A3 fuse on the driver side responsible for all information electronics. I put my old MMI back in and the display didn't come on either so I was sure that it was a fuse that blew. I'm gonna try to put the android auto back in and hopefully that works despite it smoking from the motherboard previously.
Bro keep it up the quality of vids is insane, u deserve more.. Im mainly watching TT vids as I’m planning to buy one when i save up, hopefully within the next year :))
Idk man you’re the one looking at tdi recommendations, every single tdi company does it, every euro car tuning company does it. Unless you’re doing a custom dyno tune it’s gonna be a stage.
You said the oil cooler was leaking again, what was it this time, as you already changed the oil cooler orings previously. Just making sure im buying everything to do the job only once.
@@Stoney1985 it was just that I hadn’t cleaned the mating surface thoroughly enough, it’s so crucial and under proper oil pressure/ coolant pressure even a small lapse can cause a big leak
Yo I love the channel bro! I do have a question though, did you ever end up running the quarter mile and shooting nitrous at the same time? The video I watched of you at the track was in the 12 seconds but that put your eighth of a mile around 8.3. I was hoping if I fully built my A3 TDI to get into the 7's. I've watched pretty much all your videos though, so I know the extent of the build.
For top rings… it might seem weird but place them into the groove, holding the ring beside the piston and then just gently lift the gap end that is facing the piston. Bring that end up across and around the top while rolling the ring around into the groove. It’s counterintuitive at first but then it almost falls into place like a magic trick. This old school trick helps to avoid scratching nice new pistons or stretching your rings too far.
I'm just doing the same job on a 2014 Touareg, once the manifold and egr were out of the way the short hose between the cooler and egr was puffed up and leaking, someone had put some leak seal through it, there are going to be some bargains for ppl who like getting their hands dirty.
They're not without significant issues though. I'm at 120k miles and will be removing my intake for carbon cleaning for a 2nd time. I have an injector seal leaking, and I'll be doing an EGR delete and valley reseal while I'm in there. Then I'll have to do the timing chain tensioner, as that's now quite clattery on startup even with 5w-40. Luckily that can be accessed without engine removal by *only* dropping the xfer case and trans. It's borderline manageable if you can do everything yourself, but if I took it to a shop they would say the timing drive is an engine out operation and ~$12-14k. Which makes these vehicles disposable for the majority of people at that point.
Been running pre fix software for 3 years and had warranty work done no issues. They are more worried about ECU scans. Now that warranty is over deletes are going on and stafe 2.5. Eye balling the singh hybrid as well.
You want the wrist pin retainer opening to be at either 12 o’clock or 6 o’clock as the up and down motion of the piston can have so much force it can compress the retainer and have it pop out
Hey man,I have a 2011 golf tdi currently on tunezilla stage 2,I’m ready to purchase a turbo upgrade can you point me in the direction of what I need to make 230-240whp? I was thinking maybe the Malone 2056 kit or the 2260? 1756 seems to be only making 200whp according to tunezilla. I’m just trying to make it a 13 second car safely without stressing anything too much. I noticed you went 12.7 on what I thought I saw you say was 250whp in your drag video. So what combo of mods do you think it would take to run like 13.5’s give or take,but definitely 13’s is what I’m looking for! Thanks man! Awesome content btw!
It’s a diesel, it doesn’t have a waste gate, if your turbo veins are not opening fast enough to handle the amount of boost your turbo is making to slow the compressor wheel down (causing surge) then you maybe need to adjust the turbo
Anyone have any experience or thoughts on the 034 Motorsports catch can for the EA113 engine? I have a stage 1 TTS 8J MK2. Would like to know if this a mod I should implement to help alleviate the gunk on the intake valves…
