A job well done I will say, but I do have some concerns. For one, you blocked up all the sill drain weep holes. Secondly, lapping metal will cause it to rust and rot quicker. The inner sill sections need better inner structure at the jacking points. I did this on my own MX-5. It took a while by Moss Miata sells the entire sill for only $100.00 each side. Only replaced each sill corner not the whole thing. Look forward to seeing more.
Looking good. Love the make shift spray booth. Good quality DIY. The Mazda MX5 with. Look great when finished. Just need the good British summer to continue. 👍
Couple of tips Mark. You'll save yourself an enormous amount of work if you flat down with 180 grit if priming all over . 40 and 80 is far too coarse . And having applied that 2 pack epoxy l would have put on a 2 pack primer . Cellulose primer is not ideal as it will be "soft" for weeks /months . I only use cellulose for very small repairs with no filler work involved . I've used 2 pack primers for nearly 50 years which on it's own would be more than adequate for your jobs , particularly as your on a tight budget . As the door shuts looked in sound condition i.e original paint l would flat them back with 500 grit and just bang on the colour. Love the gun with the different cap sizes and when using those cups , keep the gun inverted , plug in the airline and then pull the trigger , this will pull up the contents to the cap . This way it doesn't matter what angle you have the gun the contents will spray until completely exhausted . Hope this helps . Well done !
Hi Mark. Nice work, car is coming along. Just a few bits of info. sorry for length. I've painted 3 cars now in my own garage, all of them have been to shows and stood up to the scrutiny of professionals, so having made tons of mistakes I can now say I know what I'm doing. I know the HB Body technical representative personally and have been using their products for 7 years with great results, the 989 is a good product. however, you should buy the proper thinners for it (775). You can then thin it down by 50% and spray it with a 1.3mm gun setup as a "wet on wet" primer, or sealer as the Americans call it. You mention giving the car another coat of epoxy on top of the high build, this is unnecessary really, unless you are leaving the car in primer a long time before you overcoat it. The thinned down 989 works great for any rub-throughs to bare metal, which are inevitable, as it goes on very smooth, but your final finish before basecoat should be high build primer sanded to 800 grit in my opinion. You also mention the 989 being a 2 :1 product, it is actually a 4:1 product. A comment has been made about sanding the 989, it can be sanded, I always sand mine because I am outside of the "wet on wet" window, HB Body recommend sanding, it is just not as nice as high build primers and tends to clog the paper a bit. You must use a charcoal filter mask, I swear by the Gerson respirators as they were the only make to specify that they were isocyanate safe. I have an e-mail from the designer of the masks in America, and he states that they are safe up to a maximum usage time of 36 hours, after which you throw them away or replace the cartridges depending on which mask you have. Get hold of some U-Pol slow degreaser panel wipe. It is an excellent product and works great in a spray bottle to give a gloss finish to your primer so that you can check for ripples and dents. Finally, make sure you have paid good attention to water and oil filtering of your air supply, don't rely on the cheap in-line gun filters.
Hi Bob. I’ve just read your comment and wanted to say thank you so much for the time you’ve taken to write this really informative and comprehensive message. This is incredibly helpful and I will be using the methods and products you mentioned. I’ve almost completed painting the car with just the top coat left to go on the front panels which you’ll see in the next couple of videos. Appreciate your help. Take care. Mark
Dura blocks I must look about one of these. I usually pva glue sand paper on to wooded boards. Very easy to use and the sand paper lasts ages. Good for wood work project but u need that flex for car bodies. The tyres on the back of that Mazda look like winter tyre.
Nice work just doing a 1979 mini restoration, got so much rust lol but I love the look of the mini This is my first on the owner had it outside under a tree for 20 years and after 20 I’m the new owner 👍
Hi Gentlemen . So have you taken the paint back to original or metal ? You'll have problems if you prime on top of coarse d.a marks . You really should flat the finall paintwork with 240 /320 ........l've no doubt you have , but just in case ! I guess this will be a keeper ? Thanks
You boys have gathered a lot of tools together in that wee shed. Them quick jacks look the part for what u do on the channel. Be hand for doing doing brakes etc. and me thing u should do is move that compressor out into a wee house of its own and maybe put a buffer tank on it. Keep the noise down where ur working and keeps the dust out of it
G’day love the channel, why didn’t you use paint stripper it’s used by crash repair firms it would be a lot quicker than sanding back to bare metal. Take care regards John
