Welcome to Performance Productions. We're going to bring you along on our journey to build the first ever Tesla motor swapped Ford F100. It will be packed with educational information on common F100 builds, fabrication work, electrical wiring and plenty of pointless entertainment for everyone to enjoy even if you're not so into cars and trucks. Subscribe to our channel to follow the build.
you are a lifesaver. The kids like to slam the shifter and it eventually got worn out and only worked in D1 (no reverse or D2). Your video explaining the wires and what they did was super valuable! i was able to just wire it to D2 all the time so they can just go, no matter what position its in. Thanks!!!
I always dreamed of this panel, when I bought it I had the feeling that it would have raised the level of my project, but as I was installing it I realized that I couldn't install the panel reading for my RPM. And I've already contacted you a few times via messages on the website, we've sent emails and so far we've had no success. I decided to send it here to see if exposing the situation could help us.
Great vid she is coming along good ..i havnt seen your other vids yet but when you have the drink in your hand you reminded me of that one guy from trailer park boys😛 ok im off to see the other vids have a good one 🍻 🖖
Great video Andrew. Got the templates installed & frame cut. Only thing I don't see is where you referenced from to square it up. I used woodworking center points and holes in the frame to get an idea of how close it is.
Hey bud. Found you while searching for the steering being "locked". It won't turn by the wheel, nor the remote. I have pressed the 'lock' button on remote to no relief. Any suggestions? Thanks.
perhaps i missed it, but why coils and not leaf springs as the manufacturer intended? Don't get me wrong i'm not a purist, but would the leaf springs not handle the weight if it handles a pickup under normal work conditions? I'm currently working on the same project and would love any info you could share!
Cordless grinder or sabre saw simple if you put timber wedges in to splay apart cut as you go,only half a mil,cordless grinder switches off when it jams
What did you guys do to hot up the rack? The Volvo hydro pumps use one of the small connector wires to hot to turn it on. I can’t see the wiring on the truck without the motor. EDIT:duh I should have finished watching… Thank you for clearing that bit of info up! Looking forward to getting the rack in the truck (1999 f150 swap!) Separate question: Did you use AN lines beforehand on the hydro rack? Which brand fittings/hose did you use on the pressure side?
very very interesting. i have an 08 crown vic p71. this is looking like a very possible swap for me. one issue is the drive belt. not sure on how it would be shortened or? if you can get back to us thatd be awesome!
I’m pretty sure this car has 775 motors. If so all you have to do is retain the 12 v system on the factory battery and where the power goes to the motors out the controller and a 12v coiled relay and add a 18-24 volt battery feeding in the relay and to the motors. Done. It will retain all lights radio steering control and safety switch.
Awesome upgrade. I tried upgrading to 18v but didn't realize the issues I would face. Would you happen to know why pressing the power button would flash lights and turn off? Please help 🙏 - 12v battery still good - Power button working
lmao it doesn't even fit between the frame rails, maybe a bit more tinkering in CAD with some simple measurements before buying a whole extra subframe you can't use? Also since you're putting the motor & inverter in front of the diff instead of behind, are you going to mount the Tesla motor upside down and relocate the oil pickup or run it in reverse and swap out the oil pump for an inverse one that pumps the other way?
Great video. I thought about buying that kit myself, it looks like a lot of work. My family has 2 of them, one for my daughter, and older version of the jeep, and one for my son. My son has the newer jeep. Both swtiched over to milwaukee 18v batteries. My daughter's jeep works but the steering motor stopped. She learned how to steer herself so no harm done. My sons jeep didnt take well to the M18 battery. The remote would not move the jeep. The radio wont turn on and the pedal does not work. The jeep turns on but thats it. I used a 2.0ah M18 and the jeep turns on, radio works, and it moves but the voice on the speaker keeps saying "please charge battery ". I swtiched the 12v control receiver to a 24v and the jeep moves but the radio doesnt stop telling me to charge the battery even tho its a fresh charged 5.0ah milwaukee. Any advice?
I have a 71 f100 short box 4x4 , a 72 short box 4x4 F100 Ranger and a 68 f100 short box flairside 2 wheel drive that is the 5th truck built in 68 and it has 67 dash and knobs etc . 67 body mounts etc
I’m thinking of shortening the frame on a ‘75 F250 Camper special, it’s two tone with the wider mirrors, HD springs… both rear corners top to bottom have dents like from hitting a trailer while turning… so i’d have to replace/transplant both corners from a spare bed (short) so it would be plug&play after shortening the frame. Share your thoughts guys. I’m doubting. I would sell it anyway.
I own an original 69’ short bed but previous owners had a flat bed on it. It is nearly impossible to find real short beds, should I cut down a long bed or keep searching and keep the flat bed?
