#weaversstonehousefarm come along for an always fun filled adventure on our homesteading farm. We raise polled Hereford beef, Cornish cross meat birds in polyface farms drag coups, sheep, and regular laying hens. We are always cooking, fixing, growing, building, welding, and learning.
GOD has graced us with the ability to do this, teach our children these ways, and others. Our mindset is feed us first and then maybe someday we can sell the extra to other like minded people. We are a NO SPRAY farm. We are trying to be as regenerative as we can be.
You get to see my wife and my 5 home schooled daughters working and learning on our small farm. We do many similar things that are at the core of @homesteadersofamerica, @regenerativefarmersofamerica #regenerativefarming #ridgedalefarms #richardperkins You can also find us on Instagram @aaronweavertheboilerguy #aaronweaveryourboilerguy “NOT for kids”
For this model it’s directly under the engine. That PTO engagement is connected to the output shaft of the engine. It’s At front of the lawn mower. Behind the front axle. You have to get down and look up under the mower. If the wires are missing….. you will need to dig around. Maybe they ripped off? Maybe your model is different? Make sure you have the wheels chocked and battery unhooked.
Thank you! I’ll have to work on that request. Until then it’s a small 1/4” or 3/8” plug on the side of the lift arm. IT’s directly below where the hydraulic oil fill is. This makes it annoying. You have to stop filling from above. Climb down. Then open that small plug to see if hydraulic oil is pushing out. That’s how you know you have the hydraulics filled.
I had to put my small screwdriver in at the top of the cross cover, pull down and the plate that is stopping the axle from sliding over moves out of the way. It actually pooped open from the top.
Good to know. I didn’t show that on the video due to trying and failing to get that central piece to move. As you can see in the video we had to use a C-clamp to get the axle shaft to move inward after sliding the cross pin up out of the way.
Hey man thank you for this! Exactly what i needed. Never taught stuff like this as a kid and now I have kids of my own i need to know it. Picked up a pre-loved bike for my 4 year old and the brake cable is shot so this is perfect. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Much love to you and your family.
@@drewthompson8675 glad we could help you. Bikes are so expensive today and they outgrow them so quick it’s sometimes better to just fixed up a used one. The ability to fix a low cost item like this helps everyone stretch that dollar. I’m thankful that I was taught a lot by my very capable family growing up and we can share some of that here. Thanks for the kind words and help us out by subscribing. Your subscription will help us get closer to 1000 sub mark so we can get paid.
Oilite bushings are impregnated with oil. No need for grease, however you can use a sparingly amount of 20W oil, but not grease. It will gum up over time amd use. Maybe a few years maybe 10 years...
@@prebaned didn’t know that. Thanks. It’s still operating just fine with that light coating of grease. Cleaning the lint out of the base & sealing the connections better than the factory did with aluminum tape, limit the potential for lint buildup which would cause the gum up.
@@deirdresills4000 If your recipe calls for Hot Packing, you should pre-heat the jars to prevent cracking them. Most of our preserving doesn’t require this step. Grandma hot packs peaches and uses this step for this. Follow the steps of a recipe you are comfortable with.
@@edgaravila2631 glad we could help you. It’s super tough to get out of you don’t see this trick. If it helped you, help us and subscribe to get us closer to 1000 subscribers so we can get paid
Hey, I’m buying my first saw. It’s a 20” MS261. My local shop has both models the Mtronic, and non-Mtronic. Please help lol. I’m torn. I know the differences. But I’m just not sure if I should go mtronic or not.
@@videocardzrule354 if you are buying your first saw the 261 is a good all around basic saw. If the saw will only have light use get the m-tronic. Basically if a 2.5 gallon gas can will last you for the year that’s what I would do. We generally cut 6-8 cords of firewood a year and logs for our sawmill. So our saws see good usage. I’ve been around saws and carburetor adjustments all my life as my grandfather owned and ran a sawmill. My dad used to timber for a sawmill and I’ve always rebuilt carburetor’s and tuned all types of engines. Get the 16” or 18” bar rather than the 20”. That’s too much bar for that saw when you start cutting hardwoods.
@@weaversstonehousefarm thank you! , it looks like nolts might also source their greenhouses from them. As they cite they are from Dundee Ohio and that's where CVS is based.
@@JasenWoodworth Dundee is in Amish and Mennonite country in Ohio. Been through that area a few times over the years. There is a strong chance those business know each other. Those communities are close and support each other in building business.
I was mowing with my L120 and the blades jist stopped...looked underneath...a black ground wire is dangling...sisnt know where it went...now i do....supposed to have 2 black wires crimped together on 1 side of the connector....thanks.
@bbtplumbinstruments they are different. As one other subscribed viewer said, the one up front is for the transmission. The tall one on the side, by the loader arm is the for the hydraulics that allow you to lift and dig. That’s why it’s on the side and easy to get to as it will probably be changed the most.
No. That grease zero is impossible to reach from the front with the pump installed.the only way to get to it is between the small opening between the radiator and engine. It would not have helped us to grease it as the shaft splines were totally gone where they were inside of the coupling on the engine side. I greased the splined shaft and coupling prior to installing.
The splined coupling from “broken tractor”$69 + shipping and tax it was $89 engine side coupling (Amazon) link below so you can buy it $47 w/tax filter from Napa $25? new fluid $50 a bucket x2 = $100 Roughly $261 was spent for just this repair. That doesn’t include the time and fuel to get hydraulic oil, filter, grease, nitrile gloves, paper towels. We also had to torch the pin off the an outrigger while the fluid was drained down so we could have it rebuild with a new chrome rod. So our overall cost was higher. JEENDA Hydraulic Pump Coupler... www.amazon.com/dp/B095WPXWWY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The more is not better. It should've lasted longer the surfaces of the valve cover must be completely cleaned from oil or any solvents, also your must hand tighted and let it sit for at least an hour i usually wait longer then it must be torqued to the right specs and wait at least 24 hours for it to cure before starting "HINT" cleaner the better do not over torque or use too much rtv and let it cure properly you should have no problems for a long time.
The fix for these is the addition of the heat shields under the valve covers to protect the RTV from the heat. We can discuss torque, drying, and level of clean till the cows come home. None of that matters when the heat from the exhaust pipes just cooks the RTV dry. You can fab up a set from thin sheetmetal and bolt them to one of the bolts under the head. Buy the aftermarket aluminum or plastic retrofit valve covers and they come with the Heat shields. The seal job in this video lasted about two years w/o the heat shields = good enough, it’s a lawn mower. We changed it over to the Kohler retrofit valve covers now. We have a video out on that and the retrofit valve covers were reasonably priced.
Quick tip for you put the bearings in the freezer for a few hours and heat the mating surfaces up and slam the frozen bearings on really quick and you won’t have to beat anything
We appreciate the tip. I have tried that a few times over the years. My sanding of the shaft during was limited and I probably should have done more to make that bearing easier to get off the shaft. We sanded that shaft a lot prior to installing the new bearing and light grease. We did some gentle tapping on the bearing holder with a 1.5” pipe and it went in place pretty quick. Thank you for watching the video and commenting. We hope it helped you. Help us and hit that subscribe button to get us closer to 1000 subscribers so we can get paid.
Between the pins it’s 2”, center of pin to center of pin. The chain companies call that pitch. I used Nitro roller chain chart and it says that size is 160 single chain.
Bought a 454 that has been Disassembled for years two bins of parts. Hydraulics pump was not mounted on the tractor. Bought a manual however your tractor is more like what I am dealing with. Just getting my head wrapped around this project and what I need. may reach out to you if that’s ok?
This was exactly what was wrong with the L120 I was working on.....Thanks very much for posting this. One of the black wires came out of the connector. Great post!!
Glad we could help you. Thank you for subscribing. You have some neat train videos on your Channel. It baffled a family member of mine for a….while…..till I made the trip to troubleshoot and fix it.
Man thank you nobody else had video like this been struggling with a slide hammer on a 2008 trailblazer just gave up today but going to try it again tomorrow with the pry bar
You are welcome. I put the video up as I had the same problem, no video for guidance. We have someone very close that teaches for a certain general mechanic company. He tipped me off on the how to do this after struggling. If it helped you, you can help us and subscribe.
Thanks brother. It’s a great tractor. Praise be to Jesus for your life and your family. Might have to swing by to see it. We have a 504 partially apart now. Video’s coming on that one later.
Happy Easter to you and your family. You are welcome. If the video helped you, your subscription will help us get to 1000 subscribers so we can get paid.
I know this was posted a few years ago, but thank you for doing so. I am in the process of restoring my I H 2444 and needed this video to help get my shifter and gears back into alignment. Thanks again Terry
You are welcome. What are you restoring on yours? It’s tough to figure out. It took me multiple try’s to finally get it and the final fix that kept it from getting stuck gears is in the notes of the 3-4 videos I made for this. If it helped you, help us and subscribe. Your subscription will help get closer to 1000 subscribers, so we can get paid!
Very funny and true. We were checking on a then pregnant heifer we had in our one stull when we stopped and we did feed them after the video. We only give a minimal amount of grain when it is terrible cold, wet, lots of snow, windy, or all of these together. That’s why we plow the lane to the barn. I almost took it out through the pasture like I normally do to keep a path open to their drag along sheds and hay ring.
Let’s think that one through. It sounds interesting 🤔. If they were installed curve facing into the V that would allow it to work ok but not dig too much. If the were installed with the curve facing out of the V they would cut it as intended but would push my gravel out of the lane. I added another video we’re this year I placed more weight on it and it works better with this. A balance to the idea you present could be angle iron added to the edges on the front of the V.
I bought one at an estate sale in 2014 (very new condition pre-CM) for $500. It's a MS 362 R (full wrap handle) w/a 25 inch bar. I never use it, I just like looking at it. - N Idaho -
Cousin - Make one now when it’s mostly warm and some of the snow has melted. Stop at uncle Shawn’s so you can measure and copy the one I made for him 8 years ago. His is 2’ longer than mine. Adjust length as you need for the width of your driveway. It’s a couple 4x4’s, a large metal 90 brace (biggest you can get at hardware store.). 12” GRK brand structural screws are key for the angle cross screws at the front. 4-6” GRK structural screws to hold the 90 bracket on the front. Leave enough room for your chain with hook 🪝 to fit through it. I have a 5/16” chain permanent to it with a removable chain link repair section. Cut the front of the 4x4 at a roundabout 55 degrees 📐. I started the cut back further so it left a solid 2” on either side as a strong blunt nose. Add cross boards and secure them with 3” GRK screws. The trick to longevity for mine is the Oak runners under the cross boards. I pulled them from a pallet. It’s really easy to build once you have the components. You will will love it and your life will be so easy you will wonder how you got by without it. Remember to subscribe and ask others subscribe. #weaversstonehousefarm
Thank you. It is doing well. It’s simple w/o welding and heavy enough that I’ve even ran over it a couple times and it’s still going for years. We can flip it over on its side out of the way to rest for the non snow months. I saw yours on your channel. It seems like weight would help yours to pull straighter. It helped mine.
Good question. It was mild and disappeared quickly. My wife is sensitive to things like this with her asthma and it didn’t bother her. Thanks for asking. Your subscription would help us get closer to 1000 to get paid. #weaversstonehousefarm
