Lol. Its a twin that bites pretty well, the engine isn't tuned and it has tall gears in the rear until we swap them. Its not exactly like driving a normal car.
I currently don't offer this as a service. If you are completely out of luck I might be able to arrange something. Right now i don't even know if my CGDI is currently licensed :-/ hope you figure it out!
Good work👍 Any details on the throttle body adapter? Where can I get it from? I am considering N52 TB on a M54B30 engine (custom built) since the Dinan option is no longer available.
I have a revised version of the TB adapter ready to go with 10 units set aside for early sale. Sorry been really busy! The legal side of this is harder than anything else.
This is helpful. I’m going to make a leather wrap sewn snug to the handle (as you do for steering wheels) and be done with this mess forever for both doors on my F33
From the Tecomotive website : Since around March 2024, the CWA400 only supports control via LIN bus. Pierburg is now installing new internal electronics, which can no longer be controlled via PWM
oh interesting, well I have full bi-directional LIN control working for BMW water pumps. The LIN messages will be vendor specific though. We're also adding this to a racecar and I have a proof of concept controller - I'm trying to get the controller released but am really busy between my day job and moving. I'll keep you all posted.
Im running this pump with a basic amazon rotary switch PWM. Tried it the same as you, left controller ground disconnected, this is actually the only way it would slightly work. My problem is when the switch is turned all the way up, the pump is off/low speed. Switch turned off is high speed on the pump. Would you be able to help me with this? Car is a street/drag car. Want to be able to control the speed manually
I did more or less the same, I just bought an engine/gearbox/diff from an importer. Engine came with the loom as well as the ECU so it was super easy. My 318i was also manual so no need for any welding of brackets.
Hi there, do you ever plan to publish the LIN messages? I’m planning to use one for my racecar, but it seems that the new units dropped PWM support, so the LIN bus is the only good option to control it.
Newer CWA400s? Are they genuine? Older tech sheets on that pump published by the manufacturer show PWM support so that's surprising. I do know they offer various versions for vehicle manufacturers and that can include custom firmware which brings me to the LIN messages - they are different for different versions of the pump. At this point in time I don't intend to publish them but I will be offering a controller. I have a POC and the project was delayed by COVID supply chain issues & later moving which I'm still working on, but I'm back to making solid progress. We're also intending to use this for the E39 race car as well as my E46. I'll keep progress posted as this moves forward and should hopefully have them for sale soon but I also need to figure out the legal side which is what's holding up the throttle body adapters right now :-/
Hi @CaitlinTolone. The passenger side handle is here amzn.to/3Ob9nMe and the driver's side insert is here amzn.to/42aDwRq , both off of Amazon. The links are also in the video description. Thanks! Hope the video helped!
I add Never Seeze to the splines and never need a puller to install a new axle. BMW CV grease turns to a thin liquid BEFORE the end of the service life of the CV joints. Regularly grease (and PRE GREASE) your CV joints with Amsoil Off Road Polymeric grease which resists separation better than any other grease I know of. . That grease in Amsoil's line up comes in two versions. Buy four tubes at a time and pay only a $10 flat rate shipping charge. Amsoil has a nearby dealer who stocks what you need to MAIL the items to you FAST! Mine actually had to come from out of state. You can't just drive and get this Top Tier grease. Use the thinner NGLI #1 version for CV joints and the thicker NLGI #2 version for ball joints. You MUST pump a LOT of grease in all these fittings before you install a new part. Not only is the OEM grease not the best, they purposely use a teeny, tiny amount to aid in the PREAMTUTRE failure of the part. Last BMW ball joints I installed needed 20 pumps per ball joint to even plump up the boots. At 20 pumps they were not over filled! Buy several 18 gauge grease NEEDLES in a kit (Amazon). You can simply slip the needle past the boot collar without even having to puncture any boot. IF you are forced to puncture a boot, just seal the micro hole with a dab of fresh SHOE GOO .....NOT RTV or any type of Silicone!! A good grease gun has adjustable tip to firmly clamp down on any fitting so the grease ALL goes in to where it is supposed to go. USE that feature! I add Zerk fittings where possible to new parts before installation. Use #3 Cobalt drill bit, and a 1/4 X 28 BOTTOMING tap and Teflon tape around the Zerk threads. I install plastic Zerk fitting CAPS on all my installs. You can get ALL of the parts and tools on Amazon. Only the high quality Cobalt drill bits (came two in a container) cost anything of note. Rest of the items are dirt cheap. Use your brain and skills and not a single chip of drilled metal will end up inside your new ball joints.
It's an Android app I wrote called "Chesapeake Logger." Unfortunately Google has been kicking small developers off the Play store, including me so it's not currently available. I'm working in a solution to that which will either be a direct download or I have to reapply for the Play store and be subject to their new requirements including 20 testers before I can publish to the public app store. As a behind the scenes look, that all costs money and I am (well, was) offering these apps for free - that's where the affiliate links help!
ground to the power source (power supply) on the bench. On my bench supply, I have black, green, and red terminals. Black on the power supply goes to the brown wires for the black plug and red on the power supply goes to the red, red/yellow, and green wires on the plug.
Assuming your car won't start because the fuel pump is dead, it's probably already depressurized. Otherwise there is normally a schraeder valve (like to add air to you tires) on the fuel rail at the engine, which you can use to depressurize the fuel system. Otherwise just be careful to catch the fuel when it comes out.
Thanks for all the info! Very detailed. I must admit it is a lot of work to do something like this, will just take my truck to bmw and hope for the best on price to replace lol 😂
Hello! Loved the video!! I have some questions hopefully you might be able to answer lol. Okay I’m going to sound like a novice but that’s because I am haha. Okay so I have a ‘05 3.0 MS43 E53 X5 and I’m pretty sure the dme has been soft failing for reasons too long to get into. Anyways, so I have a windows laptop and INPA and have done simple processes before like adaptations and reading live data so I’m not necessarily afraid to do any of this work but I also don’t want to fry anything. So, I am planning on going to one of my parts MS43 E46’s and cutting out the obd2 pigtail, dme pigtail, and possibly ews and antenna key ring pigtails as well just to possibly create an entire bench setup (but ignore the ews and antenna key ring pigtails for now, not necessarily relevant to my question). So, let’s say I get a spare MS43 3.0 X5 dme from a wrecking yard, would I be able to clone the original X5 dme to the new junkyard dme using this setup you made? I wouldn’t have the 2 x 2 volkswagen pin adapter but if I had the obd2 port pigtail cut straight from the E46 i mentioned earlier, that would practically be the same right? I’ve never done any kind of dme flashing or tuning of any sort so I’m just trying to pick your brain so I don’t mess anything up LOL. Also, would a 2.5 and 3.0 dme be the same after boot mode? Like is boot mode kind of like factory reseting and removing the engine tune/flash or does that stay? Just so I know that way I don’t grab a MS43 2.5 dme when I’m out there
Boot mode really isn't necessary for too much these days so you can just use ms4x flasher over the obd-2 port although the same setup I used in the video also works - you just don't need to open the DME. You can "clone" the original DME just by saving the original flash image (bin file) and writing it back to the junkyard DME. IIRC, EWS is the one thing you'd need boot mode for to properly clone, but you can just disable EWS using the community patch and avoid it altogether. Do be careful writing in boot mode as it's possible to overwrite the factory calibration, particularly the type of internal MAP sensor the DME uses, which can cause problems. Always back up the DME first even if it's a donor so that you can revert back. As for the cable, yes, you can use a pigtail and it will work great.
Did you swap over the manual engine harness with the donor motor? What did you do with the transmission control unit / module / computer? I'm in the middle of a similar swap, swapping over the engine, harness and transmission from the manual donor and can't find an answer about what to do with the TCM. Most swappers pull a chip from it and reconnect it but I'll be using the manual car's wiring harness and want to remove the TCM entirely.
I swapped over the manual harness. Since I started with a 318i, I couldn't reuse the automatic harness if I wanted! Since you also have the manual harness, it should be plug and play except for the reverse lights and clutch switch. Good luck!
The com port is set by your computer and will vary. If you check device manager, you should see a new device show up under "ports" when you plug your cable in and that will show the com port.
This is in preparation for a turbo build where it is typical to block off the DISA valve on the factory M54 intake. I'm keeping things simple so it's easier to work on and has less potential for boost leaks. Guess what BMW did with the N54? They went with a similar manifold design to the M50 that has large runners and no DISA valve whereas the N52 had two DISA valves and a complicated manifold in the top power variant. Anyway, the cars runs great - better than it has in years with the factory setup.
Finally a man on RU-vid who knows the difference between force and pressure. On the X5 F15 that third handle attachment from inside the panel is a thermally melted post, not a screw. Thx BMW. Make sure the clips are facing in the correct direction.
lol. Either the control arm is bent now or was previously bent and aligned that way. I don't think that pocket can be far enough out of position to cause major alignment problems, so you probably just need a new control arm & an alignment.
I did my wife’s Toyota Avalon and it really turned out nice you have to be patient when using the product but it works great I recommend using a hair dryer to speed up drying
Nice vídeo , im doing a e39 m52 swap to my e36 316i 1996 and i have the the e39 with me , can you Show the diagram to wardness wiring you rebuild of x20 plug please ?
you can look up the wiring diagrams on google "e36 wiring diagram." There are a bunch of PDFs available. I didn't rewire anything because I used an e36 harness so it was plug and play.
To be honest, I don't know. That's taking an LCI seat, which is different, and installing it in a pre-LCI E70. My guess is that the signals are probably compatible but it might not work out of the box (plug/wiring difference). I do have access to an LCI E70 with comfort seats but since it's not my personal vehicle, there's a limit to what I can inspect. I'll update this reply if I find more info. Good luck!
Hi, your valve in oil housing is broken, thats why your oil light keep on for a second after you crank it. Once you do a second start I guess you are not having the issue as you got pumped oil back into oil housing.
I'm so confused when researching about writing MS42, the CPU seems to be a Siemens C167 which is the same as in the ME7.5 ECUs which can be read/written completely via OBD except if they are bricked. Why is it necessary to put these ECUs into boot mode? And why do I have confimation that a tuner tuned my friends car (328i, MS42) just by sitting in it and flashing via OBD? The info is so scarce it is driving me crazy.
These can be EWS deleted over OBD now. If you want to mess with the EWS tables and some other calibration data no one should touch, I believe this is the only way.
