WAYALIFE is an online moniker that Cindy and I have been using for well over 25 years now and we chose it because we think it does a great job of explaining, in simple terms, the passion we have for Jeeps and the Jeep way of life. It's a lifestyle that transcends trivial things like age, gender or race and the only thing you need to be a part of it, is to have a love for the outdoors, a desire to explore, a yearning to take on a challenge and a will to conquer it. Over the years, Cindy and I have attempted to share the essence of this lifestyle with others through our photographs and WAYALIFE.com and as of 2007, through our videos here on RU-vid.
Eddie Oh - Host/Editor Cindy Oh - Videographer/Editor
SWAG & MERCH can by purchased through our Bonfire store here: www.bonfire.com/store/wayalife-swag-store/
Don"t know if you still look at these old vlogs but I had a question. The tire carrier has a lot of beef with monster brackets and such so the strength of the carries is not a question. The question is in the mounting point on the inner fender. I would think that over time you would get a little twist in the tailgate or small wrinkles in the mounting point on the inner fender on the body. A large wheel sticking out that far going down a lot of bumpy roads would apply a lot of torsion. The tailgate latch won't stop the torsion but give the gate a place to pivot, albeit a small amount. Over the span of years I would think the mounting point where the hinges attach would develop cracks etc. How has it held up??? Just got my 2dr JL and am either going to build a tire carrier bumper or install a tailgate hinge system like this... By the way I am in Henderson Nv. and would love to see your rigs. You seem to have a bunch of diversity.
All I can say is that so far so good and even after over 5 years of hard use. Of course, it is critical to adjust the tire carrier so that it presses firmly against the tailgate mount as that will mitigate any jiggling of the spare and that is ultimately what causes damage.
32 lb/ft seems high for beadlock ring bolts. I noticed the kmc wheels appear to have steel threaded inserts ore installed in the wheel so that makes sense. I did 17lb/ft on my wheels but there threaded into aluminum.
LOL - there's a reason why I've been running KMC and ATX beadlock wheels before it and for almost 20 years now. They use BIGGER bolts than most other beadlock wheels, have much thicker rings and they DO NOT thread them directly into aluminum wheels like cheaper wheels do. 32 ft lbs is what is specifically stated to use BY KMC's directions and to this day, I have never had a single issue or a broken bolt the way I have seen countless times with lesser beadlock wheels.
@@wayalife I completely understand. The steel inserts and larger bolts can handle a higher torque rating. I wish my wheels had the inserts, they're threaded directly into aluminum which can lead to issues after multiple installs if over torqued.
I’m surprised the 2 door did so well . Great to know you don’t have to invest your life savings into a Jeep to have so much off-road fun . Good wheeling
That's a shame to hear. Have you tried looking under the Bushwacker brand? They are the same company now and I know that things like fenders have moved over to it.
I'm not sure what you're hoping to hear but the lights should be aimed as you feel best meets your needs. Typically, I like to set my lights to work with my headlight low beams on and to help fill what's in front of me like high beams. The low beams and with fog lights if you have them will do a great job of help you to see right in front of you and the auxiliary lights will take of the rest.
hi @wayalife so sorry for asking this, but regardless if i tow or not, the front uses synthetic 80W-90, while in the rear i'd use synthetic 75w-140? I have a 2022 rubicon 4xe. Thanks again and thank you for all your awesome videos!
Impressive what a good driver and a stock JL can do. The built Jeep going through the V notch is quite impressive. Awesome articulation. Great content, Cheers.
I’m changing mine on Thursday. When using the yellow tape, do I need to let it sit for a certain amount of time before driving? Do you also recommend changing the transfer case fluid at the same time?
I am curious why you still have the OEM Mopar Steering Damper/Stabilizer? Seems like there is a better after-market option. My 2019 Jeep Sahara has a warranty extension on that part for 8yrs 90k miles and I just had that replaced with the OEM part at the dealer but will replace that in the future with an after-market one day.
I am curious why you think that a better steering stabilizer is needed or that an aftermarket option would somehow be better? From personal experience testing out a myriad of stabilizers, I can tell you that most are in fact, not any better and if anything, a lot of them cause problems such as pushing which leads to drifting or are just flat our worse and allow for wobbling. But then, that's just what I've seen.
@@wayalife I do not know. I guess I watch too many videos with all the different after-market options for all the front end parts. That is why I asked. Like I said just had the warranty replacement with the Mopar shock and figured one day I would need to replace on my own dollar and was wondering if there is any other options that are better. Thanks for all your videos!
@@wayalife I also would add that I have not see a video that endorses OEM Mopar parts. No one would watch you replacing Jeep OEM with Jeep OEM....no money or sponsors in that. Is there?
@@joemama7435 I never got into making videos on RU-vid back in 2007 to make money or get sponsors. All I've ever wanted to do is share what I've learned over the years with people who could benefit from my experience and with the hopes of being able to help them out.
Im having an issue with my jeep, was wondering if you could give me some advice. The jeep has auto on and off, off due to a blown fuse. I didn’t replace it because I don’t want the car to keep turning on and off and don’t want to constantly press auto off and on off switch. So when I turn on my jeep my battery stats shows 14 volts. But every time I turn it off and on that charge drops, so from 14 it goes into the 13s and then from there into the 12s and then lower 12 where the jeep won’t turn on. The crazy part is that when it’s 14 volts it stays there, the same with 13 and 12. Would that be a bad battery or a bad alternator? I have checked to see if there’s anything that drains power when the jeep is off and nothing, both batteries are a lil over 3 years old. One more question, should I test the aux battery to see if it’s affecting the main battery? Even though it’s not being used due to blown fuse preventing the use of the aux battery?
The auxiliary battery exists to help protect your Jeep's computer on start up. It does not have any thing to do with the auto stop start function on your Jeep. What you have just described sounds like your auxiliary battery going bad and at about 3-4 years, that would be totally normal.
They are still in business but it is my understanding that they are running into problems with getting components to make their lights. Because of this, they've suspended sales until they can get them.
Not sure what makes AEV the best but there are lots of kits that offer HD rear coils to help support more weight. I should note that with any HD coil, your ride will ride harshly when unloaded.
@wayalife thanks for the info which one would u recommend for rear coils to help support in 4.5 and I'm not worried about ride quality specially when it's unload
To be clear, there are very few if any lift kits out there that measure up to what is stated. MOST are taller than advertised and many are taller up front to help "level" out your ride. As in, the AEV coils may give you a bit more actual lift than 3" and others such as the 4.5" EVO coils you see in this video end up giving closer to 6" of lift. In other words, it'd be hard for me to make a specific recommendation without knowing if you're looking for "actual" lift height or "advertised".
Assuming you're still running factory gears, you will be fine using a basic 75w90 fluid. If you have a limited slip rear differential, you will need to add friction modifier or a synthetic fluid as it will have it in it.
@@DogDaze66 This video was made for the 2018-up JL and JT Gladiator. On a 2008 JK, it is helpful to have being that the tubes and end forgings were weak and tended to bend. You did not waste your money.
Super vid! Foolish question, why didn't you check the angle of the pinion on the front? Or is it assumed if you did the rear, you also have to do the front?
Assuming you're running an ACC BAR, you can use this video to run the cable down the windshield and down to the frame and then out toward the back. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Qi79fJoUqSw.html
Great channel. Just got a 2024 Jeep Wrangler Sahara. I’m salivating watching you with all the modifications that you do. Unfortunately I can’t afford it. Quick question can I put a 35 if not 33 tires on my Jeep. Thank you 🙏
Great video as always Eddie. Question, what's the difference between changing the LED Bulbs and going with either the factory LED's or replacement LED's. There is an option in JSCAN for switching from Halogen to LED's, would I use that if I went with a full factor LED package or some other LED lighting package? That would require a different harness, thus the need to update the programming in JSCAN?
Not all bulbs are made the same but with these, there is no need to use a Jscan or the like to alter the health monitors. The factory lights are without question, the brightest and best option. Most but not all aftermarket replacements are only 7" and not 9" like factory.
The system held up great and I have not tested out any other shock as ACCUAIR states that it will void the warranty if you do. You need to run what they provide but they now offer upgraded shocks.
Just got my hands on a beautiful 24 JLU sport S. I honestly love the rims it came on from the factory, but I am looking run a 315/70r17 KO2 on them. Aside from the lift, can anyone point me in the right direction as far as wheel spacer size/ needed backpacking to run that setup? Never ran spacers in my life, but they seem safe enough. Thanks in advance yall
There is only one size you should be running on a JL or JT and that is what I show you in this video. It is critical that you do NOT run anything smaller as the wheel studs on your axle WILL protrude through the spacers and prevent your wheels from sitting flush on them. This WILL cause the studs to fail.
@@jonathanfletcher97 It's a tight fit and some shops will not install it but back in the day, we would purposefully do it and called it a poor mans beadlock.
