Hi, I'm Charlie White. I've been doing DIY for as long as I can remember. I'm on a personal quest to show anyone and everyone, that DIY really is Do-able! I'm self taught and now I'm here to teach you!
I'm currently getting relative humidity between 60-75% in my babies room, despite leaving the windows open. I also have a HR ventilation unit installed in there, which switches between extracting internal air and pumping in external air every 70 seconds. I don't see what else I can do to eliminate this issue. I'm using a dehumidifier in there but can only do that when the baby is not in the room as it results in the temperature going up to 24-25 degrees, which is too high for a newborn. Is this just a "time of year" thing that will ease as we head into warmer/dryer months?
Thank you - one thing you didn't mention is if you take the srew out the back end falls down the inside cavity wall, you did criticise one of the others for this.
You're welcome. If you're interested I've just installed a breathable system in the kitchen ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ou1CjwflZtM.htmlsi=2TyvScy4d5o1Hwma 👍
The plug and play function and the IP rating are both impressive, but I do still feel this is a bit expensive for what it is... the interface on the phone is pretty good mind, but i have seen similar on more reasonably priced products
To be fair the joints I did are holding up pretty well and don't seem to mind being pressure washed. It's all about getting the water and compaction right and it's confusing each product has different instructions on this
@@CharlieDIYte Hi Charlie I used sika fast fix from screw fix / I think they also sell it in B&Q . It’s not the easiest stuff to apply you have keep it wet until you’ve brushed it of all the surfaces , it stains if you don’t do that I also used it for pointing around the patio edges , Historically I brushed in sand & cement but I found myself doing this annually , I found this product unbelievably good when applied correctly, I karcher my patio twice a year it’s seems pretty indestructible
I was planning on using the cheapest 1300W Titan hoover with a Mirka hand sander block for sanding plaster. I’m not sure if it’s suitable though, what would you recommend for plaster dust? It keeps on clogging/overheating my Miele 2000W vacuum…
Plaster dust is always tricky. The DIY cyclone I made has helped ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9RfHpm2vf40.htmlsi=5NkrsQi-bD5whzaE but you still need to clean the hepa filter. The only domestic vac I'd recommend for plaster dust is Henry and just change the bags regularly
You'd always use one of the square tools unless the space was too restrictive. You want to use the smallest profile possible allowing for a 2-3mm overlap of the gap each side. If there are grout lines to span then you use the red tool and insert the black sled so the tool slides over the grout without getting caught.
Thanks for the great video! I'm planning to use the bookcase strips for a project but can you explain to be why you need a double rebate cutter and why a single straight bit wouldn't work? Is it for the clips? Thanks!
Thanks, was just about to reply to this. Yes I've used the adaptor that came with my Henry - the plastic tube that removes the need for the metal tube for small jobs.. As you say, Amazon will have it covered 👊
Thanks, really appreciate that. Make sure you watch this one for corners ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EErbuodMOAM.htmlsi=l-KWtJxgYAl1ELvS 👊
Charlie to the rescue again. The tip to wrap masking tape around the valve collar to let you use a pair of grips to loosen it was brilliant! Thanks Charlie!
Run your hands lightly across the board and if it's a little rough where the grain has come up a bit then it won't harm to gently rub the entire board with some 180 or 240 grit. It'll only take a minute or two. The edges definitely need sanding and zinsser BIN is a great primer to use as discussed here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-763yQg0Euwc.htmlsi=p_aiJeZ9hURbXvvM
Thanks so much Andrew, really chuffed you found it useful and make sure you watch this too for how to perfect corners ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EErbuodMOAM.htmlsi=P2EoY1GZe8qF_OZh 👊
If you’re not bothered about painting over the caulk, why not use pure silicone sealant? It’s more flexible than caulk, it won’t crack or discolour and it’ll generally look a lot better for longer.
Hi, I cannot find the link to the shower itself. Has it broken since you made this? :) Thank you for your video. Just found it and showed it to my plumber. All the best. Dode
This is pretty much the technique we use on our professional electoral jobs. Some tips: Use a piece of 20mm conduit for the cables, it will let you pull up slack from the floor in the future if needed and protect them where they enter the box. You can squirt in some expanding foam behind the box through the holes and in the gaps around the edge. This will help to support it and is a lot faster then trying to force filler in around the edge. If you're careful with a slightly damp sponge you can polish the easifill to a pretty smooth finish.
I'd venture to say very few builders would go down to the level of detail you did installing this stuff, likely not that many DIY's would either! Well done Charlie!
My understanding of the way powder works (unlike the foam type of product) is that the wasps track it into the nest to do its thing. Therefore, surely you want to apply the powder when the nest is at its most active - risk of stings aside? Otherwise you risk the powder being washed away by rain or condensation/dew...
Yes and actually this is what I now do ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-w3BVSDOhRhQ.htmlsi=xFsp1d1YDwckWUq1 The suit is a game changer !
