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Great video. If you want to save a bit of money - on large post holes , use 1.5 bags of quick setting post fix to get the posts level and set quickly. Then later make up some normal concrete with cement and ballast (1 part cement to 4-6 ballast) to fill the remaining part of the hole. Only useful on holes which are large and if you have lots of post holes
Great video Charlie, my only comment on the topic of trying to slow the posts from rotting is to raise the concrete around the posts to slightly above the earth level and slope it on all four sides LIke the jar of water to extend brush life I'll start using that Looking forward to the new videos
Great Job on the fence Charlie, so much better than using panels and more flexible too ! I use the same trick with the brush for linseed oil (which also avoids any chance of it spontaneously combusting) for bituminous paint I always leave the brush in a part filled spirit based shed & fence treatment which does a similar job (but these are getting less widely available these days sadly) any bitumen that dissolved just made the wood treatment a little darker, and probably more effective too !
Great work but I must say decking screws have limited shear strength - for anything structural you should use structural screws (GRK or equal). Lead sheet on the top to the fence post is a good method to prevent post rot at the top. As always I enjoy your projects!
Thanks mate. Yes I'll be doing a combined update vid. I've just found it really hard to do videos whilst running around ordering stuff and project managing the works. 👊
Good point. The previous owner has a fence around the entire perimeter which made it hard for them to get through. I've punched through it here so they should find a way in down at the bottom. We've only had one in the garden in recent memory.
Exactly, the issue is never really the post in the ground it is where it comes out of the soil and cycles through wet and dry. Always try and dome the concrete out of the ground so soil doesn't build up there and water is shed away.
It was in the news just last week that they pulled some wood out the bottom of some river, it was 500,000+ years old (seriously, look it up). Don't think they had painted it with the bitumen paint 😂
The reason why wet post don't rot is because of the lack of oxygen. The fungus that rots wood needs it to grow. With the added benefit of low pH as in peat bogs, then the combination of water, low pH and lack of oxygen is why bog oak can last for thousands of years
A lovely job Charlie, really neat and professional looking job. I know you’ve got lots of “well I’d have done it differently” comments already, but personally if I’m going to do a job like this, I dont want to have to come back and re-do it in 5 or 10 years time so agree with the bitumen paint and the capping rails finish things off lovely but I’d have put concrete support posts in at the back as the posts do rot off at soil level, similarly I’d have put concrete gravel boards in, especially behind the sloping bank as soil and wet leaves will accumulate there. Also wouldn’t use postcrete, see ProperDIY video on postcrete vs mixing your own. I’ve got 25m of hedge to take out and replace with fencing sometime soon, am strongly leaning to maintenance free UPVC slot-in slatted panels as I’m hating painting the other panels every year only to see the “5 year” timber preservative flaking off and needing repainting. But oh so expensive
Thanks for this. Yes that'll be a great solution. The issue with preservative is when people use stain. I'd never use stain as I hate the way it peels off. Oil every day for me 👌
I'm not going to lie, there is a little collab here. I've somehow got to make this channel work financially (you don't earn enough through the in vid ads). Ryobi haven't paid me a penny for all the vids I've done and thousands of tools I've sold for them over the years whilst being happy to pay far more glamorous creators on Instagram, so I have no loyalty to them. I'm seriously impressed with the SKIL stuff though. They need a better SDS but the rest of the tools are to notch.
@@CharlieDIYte Try reaching out to Milwaukee Charlie if you haven't already. They are very good with USA content creators and I have seen Keith has them on his channel.
Agree. Skil tools not too bad, +-same lvl as bosch green. Old brand, I remember it 15 years ago for sure. Not long time ago seen review about Skil table saw. Carpenter was very impressed about quality and price for it. And if you can get sponsored tools from them. Just go for it, better as nothing
great work... just about to redo 8m for my garden fence as it blew down. Where did you get the capping boards... as i have no one local who sells them... especially at 3m lengths!! lol I always blackjack my posts... never had an issue. Replacing dodgy work previously done... 2 arris rails only used, and 100mm posts... no protection on posts, and poor screws used on arris rails (didnt use brackets or notched posts) We have a 15m run of jackson fencing in place .. which im now going to attempt to try and get as close to looking as possible.
Great work and Great Upload Charlie, just thinking regarding a Belt and Braces solution to stop those Posts rotting in the ground, maybe Fibre Glass resin painted onto same or even pre cut strips of matting soaked in resin and then rollered onto the bottom of the posts as a totally Nuclear option...one would reckon that once that has gone off that same would not be rotting any time soon...
Thanks mate. Yes that would be a pretty awesome solution. A few people on here are suggesting I should have left the post open underneath for moisture to migrate out through the base but as I've weatherproofed the top and the sides are tanelised I really can't see much moisture getting in and needing to seep out from below. Time will tell 😉👊
True, which is why the makers of those Postsavers position them just above and below ground. It just seems right to me to protect the post below ground too and I don't buy the arguement that water needs to seep out as I can't see much getting in. 🤔
@@CharlieDIYte I agree about your point about the post not really needing to allow water to seep out - All the fencing I ever replaced in my former job was where posts had begun to rot at ground level and usually broken there in the wind. I don't recall ever having to replace a fence where the rest of the post was fine but it had rotten through in the ground. Some had started to rot in the ground but they broke at ground level well before the in the ground stuff became an issue - I think your biggest worry will be at ground level and even that won't be for years and years, if in your time of ownership. I am pretty sure had you got a "professional" in they won't have taken half the measures you did and as such yours will well out last a "professional" install would have.
I put bitumen paint on my fence posts and I regret painting the bottom of them. I think painting the sides is a sensible idea, but in my experience painting the bottom just made it a pocket of bitumen around the post that held in the moisture. If you don’t paint the bottom then the moisture can leech out into the gravel you’ve hopefully put under the post. My posts ultimately rotted out at the top of the bitumen paint. Anyway just an observation, I get a lot out of your videos.
It's a fair point that I'm aware of and you're right, the main rotting happens at ground level which is why those post saver sleeves are positioned here rather than being a complete pocket. My thinking is I've weather proof the top of the post. The sides are tanelised so how much water is actually going to seep in and migrate down the post internally and into the base. I've always put gravel at the bottom - you'd see me doing this in the original vid - but again I'm a little sceptical whether in reality movement of water is more into the post rather than out of it from underneath.
Thanks Charlie, particularly useful as I'm halfway through my closeboard build. Watched your last two and thought I'd check this incase you've changed any methods. Regretting the post sleeves myself too....I torched them on and ended up bitumen paint over the top anyway Question - I guess you're using the 51mm to secure top of featheredge board to counter rail? I'm finding it's sometimes splitting the board/ piercing out the back of the counter rail. Any thoughts? Deano
Love your videos Charlie. Thank you for producing them for us all to learn. Quick question if you have time, how do you calculate that the height of the fence is within limits (as I know there are restrictions without planning permission)? From the field side it looked fine but obvs (as you said) much higher from the patio side. Thanks.
Hi David, thanks, I really appreciate that. I thought someone might mention that. I think from a planning perspective it would be measured from the slipping ground up (ie below the gravel boards). The cut out below the wall would be irrelevant as the fence itself is a standard height and indeed the post was only non standard length because I couldn't set it where I should have - in that excavated ground behind the wall. 👊
Yes I had so many people saying that after my original fencing vid and I probably should have put them on the inside which you're meant to do if you've got neighbours, but as it's just a field I'll take the nicer side to match what's there plus if thieves get over they've got a harder job getting out as I'm chasing them with my chain saw 😉
Hi Charlie, your video is well timed as I am about to embark on fencing off the plot around my custom build house. This may be a silly question but may I ask what tool did you use to dig those 600mm holes to put the uprights into?
I used that mutt pro digging tool - there's a link in the Description. I didn't record much frootage for some reason but you can see it in action here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sCMdiWauKjQ.htmlsi=yW_b2mA2WIBtwff_
I have a fence pannel what was built around 1927 what came with the house god knows how it still living also found it friends last year behide some Ivy and bushes it’s most of it friends have seen better days posts long gone probably turned in to saw dust by now pannels have holes in them as being eaten by the ivy and rotting as well but all these years later 2 out of 10 I think have survived the fence dose look really ugly as it been patched with old wood scraps and held up with old green house poll
Advantage of wooden gravel board: can cut holes for hedgehogs to pass through. We used concrere, like all neighbours, so hedgehogs have vanished. Regrets
Good point. Unfortunately I have the opposite problem in that some rats are nesting below my neighbours decking. I used concrete gravel boards to try and cut off their run into my garden, hasn't completely worked though and the hedgehogs are nowhere to be seen. 😢
I cut a hole through my concrete ones … that evening the hedgehog came straight through from the hole in the wooden gravel board at one side to the concrete gravel board at the other side … result! 6 months on my neighbour has built in half cocked sleeper beds and the hedgehog can still go through the concrete hole, but to no where the other side! 😡
This question comes up from time to time. No, I think that's over thinking it. I've bitumened the top of the post to stop rain getting in from above. The posts are tanelised which should stop the majority of the rain sinking in laterally and so I think the greater priority is to stop water ingress before ground. That said, as rotting primarily happens at ground level there's an argument that you could/ should just create a bitumen collar above and below ground that doesn't fully encapsulate the post.
It's in the Description but it's here bit.ly/3PrUAwx Nice little tool and it comes with a couple of blades including a diamond cutter too. Been very impressed with the SKIL stuff since I started using it.
The long term plan is to replace the entire fence with close board. So this was all about making good the gap so I can get on with other pressing jobs. I'll probably finish it in the spring. 👍
I notice you often switch between wearing ear protection and then not when using loud equipment. Bad habit of just forgetting when only briefly using tools or something? Also, ALWAYS mask up when cutting concrete of any kind. Silicosis is no joke and nearly as bad as asbestos!
Hi Charlie great video as always . Very slightly off topic I’ve recently been needing to form a divide between a gravel garden and grass , I’ve used the the plastic decking boards that you can get quite readily now . Obviously not their intended use but absolutely perfect for my job , so much so I’m going to use it as gravel boarding when we replace our back fence . The actual fencing that is made of a similar material is still relatively expensive , so I doubt we could afford that . But having a gravel board that will never rot has to be a worthwhile investment . 😀👍👍👍
