Want to see things getting fixed, racing cars, breaking cars, track days or engine building you can relate to? Fixing engines, fixing anything that moves. Being inventive - can we teach you something or can you teach us? Tell us we're wrong!
3 amateur mechanics, Scotty, Swampy and Big Si get their hands dirty stripping down engines, finding out out how things work, failing and learning while doing it? We'll have a go at most things but we seem to specialise in MG Rover, Toyota and older cars... but we just want to learn! Working across 2 workshops (We think we should call them Garages tbh) .
Quick question the door locks work on my TF fine but when I lock with the remote I always get a whirring sound for half a second or so while it does it - was that what you were experiencing too? I can probably live with it to be honest although perhaps it is best to try lubricating or replacing it before it packs up completely? Oh and did you have to do anything special to get the lock to work with your fob?
Hi, thanks for watching. Mine made a loud rattling noise when unlocking and jammed a couple of times leaving me unable to open the door. A safety and convenience issue as well as being a serious annoyance. You could try lubricating the mechanism - certainly no harm doing that. There’s nothing you need to do to do to get the lock working with the fob. The fob transmits to a controller module - which switches power to the lock. There’s no ‘intelligence’ in the lock so nothing to re-code/reset etc… Let us know how you get on. (Scotty)
It seemed daft not to do the job when I'd done so much work to date and I was fitting the silicon hoses anyway. But... you make a very good point!! 🤣🤣 (Scotty)
Hi Jake! Have you also been caught out in Australia by the fella who has stolen our logo? I'm really sorry to hear if you have. He's nothing to do with us and we have contacted Facebook to try and get it removed. He goes under classic 4x4 garage.
Hi Jake - he has removed our logo from his Facebook page now as we released this….. This guy has stolen our logo!! He is nothing to do with us!! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1ONIy0vI5Rw.html I am also sorry he scammed you - we know you are not the only one. We are extremely angry about what he has done - we’re just two amateur guys working from our own homes not trying to sell anything and just enjoy our hobby. Scotty.
Hi, our research led us to believe it's best to go with 0.002" - 0.004". I have seen other figures quoted with wider tolerances but all of mine, when I rebuilt my 135's engine, were in that range anyway. (Scotty)
In the facebook help section there is a Trademark Report form. I was unable to complete for you as the owner has to file the claim. Good luck as intellectual property rights are important.
SWAMPY: Thanks @monturrahman878, appreciate the help. We've reported it for copyright breach and impersonation using the Report feature on Facebook a few times. Not sure if we can use trade mark as it's not officially one... but we'll certainly look into it. Thank you!
Thank you. We’ve had a complaint from an Australian chap this morning saying he’s been scammed 400AUD. Assuming this allegation is legitimate and so far we have no reason not to believe it, then this is more serious than just us being a bit annoyed. We’re definitely following it up as, apart from not wanting an undeserved reputation, we don’t want to see anyone get ripped off. (Scotty)
Hi, I have a question about heat emmision from the heater pipes. My MG TF 135 get very hot during a ride, mostly there where the gear shifter and the ashtray sits, the heater is set on the cold position. Is ths normal on this model or should I change the heater flow valve?
@@DGFA- Hi, firstly I would check that it’s definitely hot air from the heater causing the problem. You’d almost certainly know if you have a coolant leak near the heater valve/ashtray from the smell of anti-freeze, so it’s probably not that. If something electrical is getting hot then you’d smell it, so probably not that either. Worth checking though, just to discount them and confirm that it’s definitely heater / coolant related. If you have warm / hot air from the vents continuously and can’t get cold air then the heater valve could be the culprit but if you can get cold air from the vents then the problem may be elsewhere. Is the engine running too hot - do you get any problems with engine overheating? You could also check that the heater ducts aren’t faulty and sending hot air the wrong way. I’ve never noticed that area of either of the two TF’s I’ve owned being hot in that area so it does sound like something’s not right. I guess you could lift the centre console and have a look - check the insulation is in place, check for leaks etc… I hope that helps, at least a little. Let us know how you get on. (Scotty)
@@ScottyDawg Thanks for the tip. It behaves like this: when the console gets hot, only hot air comes out of the ventilation slots. The console only heats up after the journey has taken a while. The water temperature indicator is then in the middle and the oil temperature is around 120 degrees. Is it already too hot? I started observing this behavior about three months ago. Someone in a forum said it was normal because the heating pipes run along there. At the time it was still cold outside and the heating was on. But now in the hot temperatures the heating is completely off and yet this heat is still developing. I don't smell any strange smells, so after analyzing the respective causes I think it could be the heating valve. I haven't taken the console apart yet to take a look at the inside because I don't yet know how to take it apart without damaging it.
SWAMPY: Thank you so much for watching :) definitely going to try and keep this project going and keep you all updated :) Part 2 will be out soon :) did you have a particular favourite bit of the vid?
I know of one of these but in a dark grey, in a garage covered in blankets. Been in there well over 10yrs. Just not sure what its worth. As i think the guy would sell it. Its in his mums garage but hasnt looked at the car in years.
SWAMPY: Thanks for Watching... there were quite a lot of these made in the years before 91 so they don't command huge sums until the later models of which there are less. Even more so the Jap spec engines with twin turbo. May I ask where you are located roughly? We'd love to see that other car!
Please I have the same navara, turbocharger spoil, lost power, if I want to climb hill with 3and4 gear I found very difficult to climb sometime,the ignition switch off,I fix the turbocharger still i can't easily climb hill,by this time ignition no go off,but engine check list on dash boards (symbol )
SWAMPY: Hi there and thanks for watching our channel. I'd love to answer your question directly, but there are many things that could be causing this. My recommendation would be to get the error codes read by a code reader in the first instance. Have a great day!
Hello sir, first of all I want to tank you so much for all this video series. Becouse of you I made it, I finished rebuilding my 1.8 freelander engine. And not only engine! But I have problem I I hope you can give me an advice: I just restart my freelander 1.8, for the first time after rebuild all engine. I double check all the electrical conection and fluid, but has idle variation. Is normal? The idle variation can be from the small batery that i took from my 1.6 Toyota Corolla. I apreciate any advice. Thank you so much!!
Congratulations on completing your rebuild 👍 The first thing I would check is that you have replaced all the vacuum hoses. I forgot one on my VVC 160 project car and it idled very badly. I'm assuming it's a petrol engine, so did you use fresh fuel? Unleaded starts to degrade after six months or so. Also double check the spark plug gaps. The condition of the plugs could also tell you if the engine is being under or over fuelled. are they covered in black soot (over fuelling) or very white (under fuelling)? Check the cylinder compression as well - if one is low then maybe there was a problem during reassembly. Do you have a PSCAN diagnostics reader - if so, does that give you any codes? It's difficult to diagnose an engine without seeing and hearing it, but I hope these will help and point you in the right direction. (Scotty)
Hello! Please tell me. My neighbor has the same car. Does not start. I unscrewed all the spark plugs and when the starter turns on one side, fuel does not spray in two cylinders. I can't figure out how to get to the injectors. What could be the reason? Air in the system, clogged injectors, low fuel pressure? Where are they located on this engine?
Hi Sergei - this video might help you with testing the injectors. They are awkward to get to and unfortunately I didn't show the full strip down but, if I remember correctly, the fuel rail is unbolted after you have removed the inlet manifold. The injectors are between the common fuel rail and the inlet manifold. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-na0zLjFd62I.htmlsi=RWjpzSIytudkNmje (Scotty)
If you have not done so already, check the timing and spark. Check that then fuel pump relay works, the pump runs and that the fuel pressure is approximately 3 bar. If fuel is spraying into two cylinders but not the other two, then you may have an electrical problem which you can identify using a scope or, as you suggested, blocked or failed injectors. (Scotty)
I would be worth checking the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors as the ECU will use these to time the injection and spark. What engine do you have? 1.6, 1.8, VVC ? (Scotty)
I can diagnose diesel engines well, I have diagnostics, not an electrician's problem for me. It has a 160 hp gasoline engine. behind there is a car mg. Fuel gets into two cylinders, but not into the next two, there is a spark everywhere. I think that if there is a spark, then the crankshaft and camshaft sensors are working. Otherwise the computer would not create a spark. Two cylinders are working, but that’s not enough; at least one more is needed.
Thank you, I did not expect such a detailed answer. I am from Russia and live in France. I am interested in the question of how to remove the indicators on this engine and how to put them in a condition so that the engine can be started. This car is for sale, it doesn’t need to be done well. I need to demonstrate that the engine has started, nothing more is required from me.
SWAMPY: yeah.. its true. Got it off the car, found that mess, flushed the whole system and replaced drier, condenser, compressor and oil it was back up and running the next day :)
Were you able to sort it? How many times did that rotate in 250k miles? Quite amazing engineering to operate in that environment for so long!! (Scotty)
@@DoubleDuckGarageI just changed it for a new turbo yesterday so I’ll have to give it a week or so to see if my oil consumption goes down, I’ve been burning 1qt per 125 miles!
Just done mine 👍spot on now. Went in after some bellend had tried it before I purchased the car🤔looks like they tried one side got pissed off with job after only replacing the hatch ram and not the glass one and didn’t reseal the foam cover (plastic on mine)left it loose so the load space carpet was always wet after rain ,works a treat now and closes a lot softer👍
i am just about to pull the engine and rear subframe from my 135 TF and have watched this series many times for inspiration, many thnks for taking the time to make this.
Hello, how can I connect to the Rover 216 vehicle computer? Hi, I am not familiar with the 216 but found this: www.mg-rover.org/threads/diagnostic-connector.261607/ The J1692 connector is just behind the center console in the drivers footwell. In production many of the connectors were clipped into the metal bracket the wrong way around with the contacts facing the rear of the cigarette lighter. There are two photos here (for a right hand drive car): www.mg-rover.org/threads/obd-port.866373/ It looks like your ECU could be MEMS 1.9 and this is supported by PSCAN. If your car is pre-1995 the connector is different and is in the engine bay near the battery. I don’t know if that is PSCAN compatible. You might be able to find out more at: www.the-t-bar.com/forum/pscan-uk-diagnostic-tool-forum I hope Google translates this well enough to make sense :-) (Scotty) Merhaba, 216'ya aşina değilim ama şunu buldum: www.mg-rover.org/threads/diagnostic-connector.261607/ J1692 konektörü, sürücünün ayak bölmesindeki orta konsolun hemen arkasında bulunur. Üretimde, konektörlerin çoğu, temas noktaları çakmağın arkasına bakacak şekilde metal brakete yanlış şekilde kırpılmıştı. İşte iki fotoğraf (sağdan direksiyonlu araba için): www.mg-rover.org/threads/obd-port.866373/ Görünüşe göre ECU'nuz MEMS 1.9 olabilir ve bu PSCAN tarafından desteklenmektedir. Eğer aracınız 1995 öncesiyse konnektör farklıdır ve motor bölmesinde akünün yanındadır. Bunun PSCAN uyumlu olup olmadığını bilmiyorum. Daha fazla bilgiyi şu adreste bulabilirsiniz: www.the-t-bar.com/forum/pscan-uk-diagnostic-tool-forum Umarım Google bunu anlamlı olacak kadar iyi çevirir :-) (Scotty)
SWAMPY: Thanks for Watching our channel Anton... please subscribe and like the videos which will help us out no end fighting against "the algorithm" :) May I ask a few questions? What hardware interface are you using? Which software do you mean? We all use the pscan interface with its corresponding software. If you are using a generic obd2 interface then the pscan software won't work with it and won't help. Pscan software is available at pscan.uk/ but without the specific hardware it won't help you.
It's good to hear it's going to a good home. I am of the view the mgf and mgftf are very good cars they just need to be maintained well like any other car.
Agreed - maybe they need just a little more maintenance than other vehicles - but the moment the roof comes down on a nice bright day it’s worth all the effort! (Scotty)
Hi, it was a few years ago so not 100% certain but I am pretty sure I bought the wrap, isopropyl alcohol, tools etc… from here. www.mdpsupplies.co.uk/vehicle-wrapping Are you thinking of giving it a go? If so, have fun!! It’s a challenge but quite satisfying 😀
The most likely cause of PSM failure is a wheel speed sensor and a code read will confirm that for you (assuming no wiring issues). Potentially the ABS module itself and the Throttle Position Sensor can cause PSM issues as can a bad battery. If you haven’t done a code read yet, that’s the first job. Hopefully you’ll have a nice cheap repair 🤞 (Scotty)
GOLD MINE! Thanks for posting this video. I've searched for good instructions online multiple times never finding anything very clear. This is awesome, great video. I already got my rear window to start working again, as well as the wiper. Now for the defogger! I'll let you know how it goes.
SWAMPY: Thank you for watching and glad you found it helpful! Sounds like you managed to get things working well again! Anything else you would like to see?
I'm late to this party! Thank you Scotty I enjoyed your work. That Four Way Connector can be a problem, I made one out of copper tubing and silver solder - still working! Now back to my real problem, please help! My 2004 MG TF suddenly started smoking, but hectic. Light grey smoke. I did not smell oil and are of the opinion that it is fuel related? Checking and cleaning the injectors I also notes that they all are injecting at the same time. Logic tells me that must be wrong and causing over fueling and smoking. Have you ever analyzed wat was the resin?
Hi Johan, I have not got a definitive explanation for this but I think this could be expected behaviour because my engine definitely runs without over fuelling and as you can see from the videos all I ended up doing was cleaning the fuel system end to end. So best guess is that either the ECU is compensating for a fault or it simply uses parallel injection to help the engine start. I have always meant to research this further but the best I have found so far is www.mgfcar.de/library/ENGINE_MANAGEMENT_SYSTEM_%20MPi_VVC_MEMS_3.htm . What I have learnt is that the ECU initially uses its built in map until the lambda sensors are hot enough to go closed loop. This map provides extra fuel for a cold start as you’d expect. So, maybe this map also uses parallel injection initially to help start the engine? Sorry I can’t help more but at the moment my best guess is that the ECU is doing what it’s programmed to do and once the engine is running it will switch to sequential injection. (Scotty)
Okay, I'm back on the MG. My apologies Scotty, been sidetracked on to so many projects in the meantime - Thank you, I will study the ECU material you send me and will report. I think it might be a faulty lambda sensor, because she smokes like an Ugrian rocket, and it is not oil! @@DoubleDuckGarage
I think the problem hides somewhere in these two paragraphs below. Maybe one of your sensors did not make good connection, hench the bad injection during testing. With my MG everything was together, but with testing the injection was similar to yours, so, I must do some more digging and testing. I must mention, she was running perfectly and started smoking suddenly. Thanks for the heads-up, I think I'm going in the wright direction! ENGINE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM CMP Reluctor - MPi and VVC Engines The reluctor consists of a single "tooth" design which extends over 180°of the camshaft"s rotation, for this reason it is known as a half moon cam wheel. The half moon cam wheel reluctor enables the ECM to provide sequential fuel injection at start up, but it cannot provide a back-up signal in cases of CKP sensor failure. If the CMP sensor signal is missing, the engine will still start and run, but the fuel injection may be out of phase. This will be noticeable by a reduction in performance and driveability, together with an increase in fuel consumption and emissions. As the camshaft rotates the signal will switch between the high and low voltages. The position of the half moon cam wheel relative to the camshaft is not adjustable. The air gap between the CMP sensor tip and the half moon cam wheel is not adjustable. Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor The output signal from the MAP sensor, together with the CKP and IAT sensors, is used by the ECM to calculate the amount of air induced into the cylinders. This enables the ECM to determine ignition timing and fuel injection duration values. The MAP sensor receives a 5V ±4% supply voltage from the ECM and provides the ECM with an analogue signal which relates to the absolute manifold pressure and allows the ECM to calculate engine load. If the MAP signal is missing, the ECM will substitute a default manifold pressure reading based on crankshaft speed and throttle angle. The engine will continue to run with reduced driveability and increased emissions, although this may not be immediately apparent to the driver. The ECM will store fault codes which can be retrieved using TestBook. @@DoubleDuckGarage
SWAMPY: Thank you so much for watching and leaving a comment; it really does mean a lot, even more so that it has been helpful! How are you getting on with your fix/build?
Hi, I recently had broken pipe right before dpf, drove on highway and sundenly was a big booom under the car, felt under my feet, was gas 💥 explosion in pipe after that I didn't have enough power. I push pedal to the metal, revs goes up to 3000-3500 and only then stitches in Gear but no power. Pulls so slowly... Uphilss im stucked on low speed and everyone so pissses behind me. You think turbo said caui bella too after explosion? Best regards Kris Just started to follow u. Goor stuff mate!
SWAMPY: Hi and thanks for watching! I'd say the best thing to do would be to take off the intake that goes to the turbo inlet amd a look. If you take the right amount off you can see inside the turbo as per the video. This will let you know if anything is majorly broken. There shouldn't be any play in the turbo spindle and it should spin freely by hand. Hope this helps
@@DoubleDuckGarage tnx mate ill give a try and see what's up... Also is it tru if you keep Manifold pipe pushed with hand and if someone revs up it should expand? Is it turbo or something else does it 😅
Geez, I’m coming up for 50 this year and had 8 cars. Datsun cherry, Vauxhall cavalier, Peugeot 405 Sri, mgf, Ford Focus, ford galaxy, another galaxy then another focus. Only bought the galaxy’s as I needed something for the family hols.
@@DoubleDuckGarage to be honest the Sri was a great car, super handling. Our first Ford Focus was super reliable, a 52 plate, cost 4k and we had it for 14 years, and the only issue with it was every 4 years it needed a new speed sensor in the gearbox. Mgf was great fun, top down, she’s been sorn for 8 years now, I have however put the head back on, thanks to so handy RU-vid videos showing the process lol. Worst car was the first galaxy, was the vw partnership one, needed fixed every week. Did improve my car repair skills though!
I had the same brake pipe blow out, This was the first time I used a pipe flare tool, I started from the underside joint at the connector and fed the pipe up into the car, I was so proud how neat I was fitting the pipe only to find out when I went to bolt the pipe on to the Abs I found out I had the connector the wrong way round,,,DURRRR!!!!!! Yip the flare tool is a bit difficult to hold without being in a vice, I ended up squeezing it in a large G clamp to crimp the flare, luckily I had just enough brake pipe to reach the Abs unit. After much P.taking from my mate, I won't be doing the same mistake again.
Hi - it's not sold yet. Actually I have not listed it anywhere as I am still finishing off a few jobs. There'll be a video in the not too distant future (storms permitting - it's not coming out from under it's nice warm cover at the moment!) showing the final work and then I'll think about selling. Cheers! (Scotty.)
SWAMPY: Thanks for letting us know :) We've updated the title to reflect that it's not for the car battery but is for a key fob/remote :) We hope you enjoyed it anyway?
We’re just amateurs learning as we go but we usually get there in the end. I did have an ex Porsche mechanic tell me it would be the loom as they are a common failure but obviously not this time. I’d never even heard of the magnetic ring in the bearing before but definitely know to be more careful next time! 🤣🤣 (Scotty)
@@DoubleDuckGarage I had a similar thing when I replaced a wheel bearing on a Honda Civic and Euro car parts supplied the wrong bearing that didn’t have the magnetic part to it and after replacing the wheel bearing the ABS didn’t work and the light was on and then we learn that there were two different types, however Euro car parts refuse to refund for all of the labour to take the old wheel bearing out because it was their mistake as they knew the reg number of the car
@@Eatcrow ECP are my least favourite parts supplier at the moment, TBH. I only use them when I have to - i.e. I can't get the part anywhere else. Their customer service leaves a lot to be desired in my personal opinion. Swampy has had better experiences with them than I have, I believe. IMHO GSF and Autodoc are the better options. (Scotty.)
the problem that the VVC mechanism does not turn smoothly when it is assembled is in the gasket LJQ100950SLP LJQ101970 the new ones are a little thinner than the factory ones
SWAMPY: Thanks for Watching and taking the time to comment. We had the issue that the vvc gaskets seemed thicker and we couldn't get them on properly and we're pinching... it just didn't seem right. Either way... it went back together after deciding thay mechanical force had actually seated things correctly and there were no leaks! Do you have any recommendations?
The funny spring thing on the rear pads is the squealer, when the pad wears down the squealer contacts the disc and makes that horrible squealing noise telling you it's time to change the pads.
We always enjoy the MG work but unfortunately we need to work on other marques to grow the channel as there's a limited fan base for MG's sadly. The MG world is definitely my favourite so there will hopefully be much more to come. Maybe even something non-TF one day - I look at the ZR's with lustful thoughts sometimes 🤣. So who know's? (Scotty)
Good to see the TF again, rebuilt my brakes in the summer, only problem with mine was the Aluminium had reacted with the pins and had a bit of a task removing them, the AP calipers hadn't seen any maintenance since way before I had the car. 😁
We had that with Swampy’s TF. I think I’m lucky that mine is a three owner car (me being the third) and it was apparently owned by an MG Rover manager initially, so it had been quite well looked after - at least until the previous owner gave up on it (Scotty).
With plastic bumpers or panels you really need heat to slightly soften the plastic a bit. When hit the plastic will have stretched a bit and the heat will stop the memory effect the plastic holds, ie the dent will attempt to pop back to the damaged state. Obviously the hot glue methods won't work when using heat, but the suckers will tollerate quite a bit of heat. In the past I have loosened the panel to get behind the dent, heat it from the inside to make the plastic a little bit maleable and use a soft pad to press the dent as you heat it, the paint will tollerate quite a bit of heat before bubbling, so just heat the plastic until the dent can be pressed,,,, you will feel it go when the heat is working,, different panels are of different thicknesses so they press out at different temperatures, as soon as you feel movement when pressing them out stop the heat.
SWAMPY: Looks like a hybrid from all the pictures and video I have seen. Flames from under the left side of the car which on a hybrid range rover is where the battery is....
SWAMPY: Thank for watching, and thanks for suggestion. We did actually do that we just didn't capture it on camera with so many things happening. .. it was horribly covered in rusty muck. A good clean and it was far better!
Hi. My 2012 Spanish built Nissan Navara D40 St-X Diesel when idling its fine but dies off when i give throttle. It also smoke a whitish blue haze. Symptoms is its hard starting however there's no oil in coolant or coolant in sump oil. Would you have any idea what may cause this?.
SWAMPY: Sounds like possible fuel pump or more likely turbo issues. Maybe the seals have gone in the turbo and it's not spinning correctly and leaking oil creating the smoke. Would be worth running a cheap scantool over it and seeing if the boost pressure is any good and if you have any codes showing. When was the last time it was serviced?
@@DoubleDuckGarage Hi Swampy. I found cause. It's a very small minor but annoying leak of coolant into combustion chamber. So I'm taking out head to replace head gasket 🥵
SWAMPY: Sorry to hear it was a major piece of work like that but I guess at least you know what it is. Are you doing the work yourself? Let us know how it goes!
There’s something very odd going on, nobody seems to question, who and where are the owners of the vehicle that burned. If that had happened here in Canada, we would have had the answer to that before the morning, and also the answer to whether it was an EV or ICE.
SWAMPY: Personally I get the distinct feeling noone want to say it was electric as it would undermine the govt push to adopt all electric sales by 2035 (was 2030)
SWAMPY: Thanks ;) Looks like everything is working OK, but no shuttle bus from the new temporary drop off point unless you have special requirements like wheel chair or trouble walking.
