Fast toys? Sort of. Cheap toys? Absolutely! Reliable toys? Not so much! I've always loved a barn find project. If its rough but the bones are good I'm all over it. You can have the most fun with projects that are low initial outlay that require some hands on.
My most long term project is my e30 M30 that I built from the parts I had left over from parting out various e34, e30 and e21 BMW cars over a decade ago when eighties German cars were cheap and plentiful parts donors. Its been a track/skid/drift day missle ever since with its unkillable M30B35 engine, getrag 260/6 gearbox and s2 body.
The second project is an XC Ford Falcon 351 Cleveland powered sedan that I purchased in late 2020 and set about restoring for road use, the project took about 9 months from start to finish and was registered in August 2021. The Falcon will be a work in progress as these Classic Aussie Muscle Cars do need some upkeep. That is fine by me.
I also have a thing for Kawasaki Gen i 1 ZX10R litre bikes
That is great mate. My Chrysler had an 22mm swaybar up front factory so I put a 32mm up front instead,and also I found an 18mm for the rear ! This made a huge difference to how the big ol girl handles. Yours will be much better I’m sure. Find a rear one if you can,it does help.
You should buy those reinforcement plates because they can crack where the bolts go through. That big bar puts a lot of stress on them. Also a small rear bar on the wagons makes a huge difference to the way they handle. Without the rear it will cut down the body roll but increase understeer
Did you do anything with the spark plug wires? Im about to retime my 351c doing the same thing you did since alot of people are mentioning it, my rotor at tdc at the moment points the exact same way yours was before you pulled it. I cant seem to throw enough timing at it since the vac advance hits the thermostat housing
I left the leads alone, it is only a few degrees between teeth. Go a tooth on the dizzy back counter clockwise and you should be able to dial in the timing you need.
Personally I never did like the old common Hotwire rim plus they look awkward to clean. I would run those super lite rims as they suit the look of the car and have a neat appearance and are by far easier to clean! An acquaintance of mine has those rims on his XB hardtop with fat ones on the rear. Looks fab.
You got lucky having relatively new bushes on everything. I did comment with a link to the compressor I used from Amazon but looks like it was censored by RU-vid.
Good work mate looks really nice. Can't wait to see it back on the ground. Those front wheels look like the ones lots of people are using these days with the cheese cutters on the front & fats on the back. Peter Anderson is really good so is Mick from Backshed👍👍 Love your work too.. cheers👍 P
Its always good to avoid recording yourself doing sketchy things, it is like a guarantee to get a spring in your face and a trip to the morgue/hospital. Be rest assured though I compressed the spring just enough to crowbar the spring out of the perch.
@@Missleindustry I do agree mate just curious how you done it safely but you explained that,, Im just finishing off a XBGT Hardtop but wish to replace the springs will out source it though Keep up the good work,
I once had an XC with worn out front upper control arm bushes this will work with any ford XR-XF and Fairlanes etc . What I did was buy a length of thick continuous thread rod so weld a plate on the bottom or use the bottom of an old shocker with the two threaded bolts. Use a scrap washer for the top or scrap steel plate with holes in it for the shocker tower nuts and a big nut for the continues thread to wind up later. Once shockers removed I found that using a trolley jack under the lower control arm prior to disassembly jacked up helps take load off winding up the big nut in advance and get to the 2 nuts connecting spring saddle to upper control arm. Once top ball joint is separated from upper control arm wind up the large nut till there's enough clearance for the control arm to be removed remove the 2 large nuts on the shocker turrets and remove the upper control arm. I forget now if upper control arm sits level prior to removal, you may just need to remove the nuts if i can contact you could send a diagram in your case yours are good but for any readers I tried my best probably could have explained it better and SAFETY FIRST ALWAYS
Looking magnificent, mate, and I'm looking forward to seeing this car fully restored and completed and fully on the road. alongside with some videos. Regards William
Great to see you work out most of the spaghetti under the dash. I just fitted a modern type voltage regulator for the gauges this weekend and wired a new socket for the headlight switch. Keep up the great work.
I am looking forward to seeing this whole car fully restored and finished, and even when you take it on the road for drives. I'm very excited for you, mate, and happy. Regards, William.
I think it will be a perfect daily for you and would mean the I possibly get to see more videos even when you do daily it around the place on some drives. Maybe. If so, mate, I will look forward to it. Is always I do enjoy your videos and also support your channel.
Low voltage from the coil wire. Read 12v but collapsed under load. The MSD distributor made it really obvious. I added a relay and the sedan hasn't missed a beat since.
Hi I’ve been following your channel for some time and super impressed with your works and efforts in all things you do. Well done on the Wagon it’s been a challenge along the way.We are Blue Oval guys down here and have various old Falcons we’ve played with over the years they are great cars. Regarding the carby and plugs , That 750 is way to big for that stock engine , it would be better with a 600 vac instead…I have several 600 vac sec carbs here and if you wish am happy to donate one for that car if you would like. Number 5 heat range plugs are a good start on an older type engine particularly if it’s a bit tired.. tends to burn of the oil a bit better and run less Smokey we have found.( Gap the plugs at .040” ) the larger gap helps promote better flame travel with the open chamber heads ,and run only 95-98 prem fuel (Ampol, Mobil, BP.. but never Shell or Privateers brands as they contain too many detergents in them which damages the gaskets in the carburetor plus makes them run rich…!!!!!.) also use a lead substitute to assist with lubrication on the valve seats in these older cast iron heads. Keep it going, it’s coming along great! Jon from Sydney
@@jonathancross-jm9yu Hi Jon, that is all most excellent advice. If you are happy to donate a carbie to this project I can be reached via email at missle.industry@gmail.com to sort out mailing info. Cheers!
I fixed my 650 Holley issues with a full Sniper setup including the dizzy, ignition box etc I fixed my leaking radiator with a blob of radiator chewing gum stuff in 1985 and it's still holding today. This weekend I finally got the repainted door trim back in including new bolts and clips for the armrests and spent about an hour getting the door latch chrome trim back on. I also had part 5 of trying to hang the Hardtop door properly...I can see that will go into several more parts as I have to do it myself. Keep up the great work, I feel ya bro.
@@Missleindustry You prepare the surface with the acetone and get it really clean, then you dust on a couple of coats first, after that dries, you can give it a couple of coats to finish it off. This will not rub off on your clothes at all. Preparation is key. Scrub the acetone into the seams with a small stiff brush. I'm almost finished with my interior and the result is worth the effort.
I used acetone to clean my vinyl seats. I then used the vinyl spray paint to recolour them. Acetone works the best and prepares the surface really well for painting.
