I am a lazy maker. I like electronics, 3d printing, fixing things and recovering mechanical and electronic components from things that don't work. In this channel I make videos with my crappy cell phone to share my ideas and projects with you. I am not young. I like beer. Follow me to see how I waste my free time.
Nice Dario! Looking forward to when your lab has been cooled down a bit😊 I live in the middle of Sweden, 400km north of Stockholm, so almost never get that problem here. // Roger
4:44 the values of r1 and r2 depend on the value of thermistor that you use, and what temperature range you would like to achieve with it. So it is up to you to decide. I have used ChatGPT to calculate the appropriate values for my thermistor and desired temperatures.
The resistor is almost shorted at the pin header. The clothespin offers no reverse polarity protection. A 2032 cell holder is cheap to buy or can be salvaged from old computer motherboards.
I will make more videos about tp4056 soon. Unfortunately at the moment it is 36° in my lab and it is very difficult to work! As soon as the temperatures drop, more interesting content will be coming! See you soon buddy!
Hi, do you think the smaller one with no protections + a BMS will work? I need a BMS because my load will be about 10A, which neither of these can handle
@@dariocose thanks a lot, yeah I'm making an LED driver, and the strip might draw something around 7A max, so I will buy 10A bms and 18650, because they are capable of even 20A or so.
Hi. Are you talking about 1.6mAh or 1600mAh? There could be several reasons. Are you sure you replaced the right resistor? Are you sure the TP4056 IC is not burned out? Did you check with a multimeter that the resistor is really 47K? These are the first things that come to mind. .... Keep me updated, I am curious to know what happened!
@@dariocose Hi, nevermind, I found out that I got bad IC. I have a few, and when I change it to other board it works fine. Now the other thing I have to observe whether the 4.2v instead of 3.6v like the battery will be fine or not 😅
Is it’s possible to modify 4056ic for minimum 3v input? I want to drive 3v 5 watt led with 18650 Battery, i already using 5v charger and tp4056 with adjustable regulator for driving table lamp, it’s work great, now i want a 18650 Battery compatible rechargeable version of it
The 4056 needs an input between 4.5 and 5.5 volts. If you only have 3 volts , you could solve with a DC-DC step-up regulator. To drive a led properly, more than the voltage or wattage, you should consider the current... I think that with a good battery and a good led driver you will be able to make it work without problems!
I really appreciate the video. I have been trying to find more options for controlling a single LED in a very small project and this certainly helps. I also enjoyed hearing your real voice at the end, you are easy enough to understand and it is nice to hear a human voice now that AI speech is so common. Thanks and keep up the good work.
Hello. The lir 2032 is rated 3.7 volts. Do you think it can be used instead of cr2032 that is rated 3.0 volt in a keyfob for example ? The voltage difference can cause some sort of problem? Thank you.
What is a keyfob? Good question. I suggest you check the device datasheet before connecting a battery with a higher voltage. If you don't have a datasheet or professional test tools, ask the seller or manufacturer...
RU-vid showed your video on my frontpage. I liked it. especially the end, your real voice is better, and your English is just fine man. Go for it. Your accent reminded me of Diodegonewild. Same country ? I subscribed, and hope you will be rich and famous (and happy...!) as soon as possible :) Regards from the Netherlands.
Nice to meet you and thanks for all the nice words! I think diodegonewild is Czech.... Unfortunately I am Italian. I think you are the right person to be my English teacher...
Hi Dario, You did an excellent job finding the IC. Please let me know if you have a solution of keeping the Li batt constantly on a charger, but limiting the charge to 3.7, 3.8, or 3.9 V. This design will extend the battery life, and will serve as backup power for Modems or routers in the case of power loss.
I mean itll get better the more u talk, usually automatically. Unfortunetly i cant watch ur videos whith the ai voice :( if u do feel comfy using ur voice u can mention me again :)
Героическое преодоление трудностей, которые сам себе и создал XD Но это круто если рассматривать это как саморазвитие! На практике такие 2 фонарика прослужили мне сезон и силикон корпуса умер почти одновременно с батарейками.
This is awesome! Can't wait for the version where you test the version with the ammeter👍 I mostly power esp32s which can draw upwards of 600mA (when using wifi) at 3.3V which is totally in reach of this project! I love content like this and wish there was more on RU-vid. You've earned a subscriber from me ❤ keep it up
He probably a reason. The video was clear and incredibly easy to follow, which might not be the case if he used his real voice 🤷. This clearly isn't scam content, although I agree that even a strong accent is better than an AI voice...
Those trim potentiometers have a very limited lifespan, if you constantly adjust the voltage. I recommend replacing it to a proper one, that has more turn cycles.
Hello Dario .. love your videos and I also enjoy doing stuff like these although I know nothing about electronics xd. What if I use this lights circuit and replace led with 1W RED smd led and run it on li-ion 18650 battery just like you did ?
Hi @lofirhythm5379. Thank you for your comment. I am very happy that you like my videos! I think the circuit of these cheap lights is not powerful enough to drive a 1 watt led. I think in the next videos I will talk about LED drivers that allow more powerful LEDs to be used .... Thanks again for your support, and if you have any more questions, don't hesitate to write to me!
Richtig, dieser Widerstand beeinflusst nur den Strom, um kleine Zellen mit wenig Strom zu versorgen. Größere Zellen können mit mehr Strom geladen werden. Zahl der Amperestunden des Akkus durch 10 oder durch 2 teilen! Je stärker der Ladestrom, um so schneller stirbt der Akku! Für jeden Akku muss die Ladeendspannung und die Stromstärke eingehalten werden!
Not many serious cyclists use non-rechargeable lamps. The button cell ones would last just minutes if they gave out the lumens of modern rechargeable lamps which last for hours.
You are right. Serious cyclists (like me and I assume you! :D) have more powerful and durable equipment! Modern bike lights have power that is incomparable to those cr4ppy little lights, and of course they are rechargeable! Although I feel like an organized cyclist, the fact is that I had a drawer full of this stuff and decided to make a video of it!
The LED receives the input voltage minus a small voltage drop. There is a detailed table on the datasheet. However, the cn5711 drives the LED in current, not in voltage.
hello. I quickly checked with a cheap oscilloscope and noticed that by increasing the voltage the frequency of the signal on the led drops until it stops oscillating at about 1.3v. At 0.6v the frequency is 130KHZ Vmax 3.44v Vmin -0.8v
first of all, the cn5711 works up to 6 volts. i would not use 7 volts to power it. you can power it with any voltage you want between 2.8 and 6v, you just have to check that the led supply current is right. If you want you can use an appropriate resistor between the driver and the led to further adjust the current
