@@albertsirrell8998 yep, fully functional and untouched. I have a 2009, so I have the audible beeps, reverse cam , mirror tilt (if enabled) and the 'distance light' on the rear D pilar near hatch. Some later models do not have the distance light FYI
@@artwachs5077 Im not sure, If I we're you I'd get the OBDX Pro VX (even over the OBD Link MX+ that I used in this video). The $30 price difference between it and Topscan is not worth the risk. The Pro VX is developed (?) by the makers of PCM Hammer. If you're deadset on Topscan AND own it already,try it with PCM Hammer since the program itself is free.
@@randalblack518 unfortunately the E38 platty isn't supported with PCM Hammer (the flashing program). For flashing ,from what Ive read,you will use PowerPCM_Flasher and then Universal Patcher to modify the bin like I did. To save some headache , scour here ( shorturl.at/tFvEx )to see if there are any E38 bins that someone may have done this to already. Segment swap their trans section or switch it to non electronic. Im just not well versed in E38 as my gen 4 vehicle is my daily lol.
Im not sure if it changes much, even if it does you can do this same swap with a Chevy Express van bin file (since they only came in 2wd). So instead of searching for a 4l80e express van, look for 4L60e van or Camaro.
Great video well explained. I don't have ac, and I have done this, but PCM still don't Triger the fans. I know that they work i have tested them. What would be your thoughts on this? Thanks
When you say tested, have you eliminated the PCM being the issue by grounding the blue or green wire independently of the the PCM (you can unhook PCM from vehicle and probe the wire harness side of harness if wires are ran). Of course this test requires battery and a GM fan harness to be hooked up. PCM can remain unhooked,no key in ignition either. If fans don't turn on when the green or blue wire is probed something is wrong 'down stream'. Report back on what harness is being used,etc.
@@2muchsplYes sir, I have disconnected both green and blue wires for the correct pin locations on blue and red connectors and grounded the wires and the fans work as they should. I also have confirmed several times that they are in the correct pin locations in the PCM to trigger the fans. I also have tested this with the water temp sensor hooked up and heated the sensor up to 260 degrees with no response from the fans when hooked up to the PCM. I did find a spot in there somewhere to tell the PCM that there was NO AC present in the vehicle. Thanks for responding
@@2muchspl 2001 Tahoe and I have also tried a 2002 Escalade. I am not worried about the second fan if I could just get the one to come on that would be fine for now.
@@sbb8079 may have to turn auto-recir on. Its under [extra categories] Vehicle System/AC/Auto Recirculation Option. It should be for fan #2 control. I dont have a Blue/Red PCM to confirm though. Btw my AC is still on PPEI_Cycling even though I do not have AC. Im not sure if that matters or not,just a heads up
@@2muchspl Yes I did read the pinned message and as it happens, I do have this OBDLINK MX+ and it's about 3 years old and never updated so hopefully will do the job for me
Could you make a video on how you made that bench harness to hook up to the computer? I have a 2001 5.3 engine and computer that I need to flash and turn off the VATs and a few other things, please and thank you this would be really helpful for me
I have to do the same exact thing. My son out a 5.3 in an F body, but he just shipped off to boot camp. I’m trying to learn what I can to help him out.
My Tahoe was recently stuck by lightning and had to get a new used ecm just wondering if clearing vats would mess my bcm up such as door locks and such also can this change vin in ecm to match my Tahoe thanks 🙏
@@stevepratt7959 The Vats removal would not interfere with BCM, basically the BCM would scream 'hey this aint the right key, dont start up' to the PCM & the PCM would be like 'IDC,vrooom'. The door locks (& alarm) either with key or with fob would still function. The VIN, from my understanding is hidden in a few places and can be seen inside U.Patcher. I however have no experience changing them nor know the ill effects if you only switch one or so. I would get the truck running, then grab a spare identical PCM on a ½ off day from junkyard and experiment with that one.
Hi my friend, so. Have ran to a problem and was wondering if u know about it, so minds sad “unlock was not successful”. Do u know how to process from this error message. And by the way awesome video
Yep exactly the same on the programming side. You will need to depin the harness at the trans (its only like 3 wires that need to be moved). Go to LT1Swap to find the 60e to 80e to get an idea on what should be where, and reverse what they did . Dont forget the 60e flexplate.
Great Work! Shops have more work than they need and with insurance companies paying out ballooned quotes, it's more profitable for them to stick with insurance work. To compare them to Custom Fab shops, they are automatically high just for the boutique nature of them. Sad to say it's the state of the car industry. If there's another welding job you don't want to tackle, look into welding shops vs a body shop. Some guys volunteer for side work even if the Shop boss doesn't want to take on the work. My first nova was a 73 and I dreamed of this mod when I was 19. :) Great work on the driving lights too. It's definitely a mod that's on the list now. Trying to be different and still tasteful is pretty hard these days. I'm trying out Yellow headlights on my black '69 nova right now and I don't know if I love it or if I'm a 46 year old ricer. :)
You're absolutely on to something, alot shops even frowned at the 'custom' work when insurance companies are keeping em fat & happy. I want to see that Nova!!!!!!!
Unfortunately No. The ELM ,even in USB form, does not have the right protocols to access the file structure inside PCM. Its amazing what ELM can do,but this isn't one of them.
You can make all the changes at once,save once. FYI please let be very cautious taking this advice troubleshooting a do not start (hot or cold) situation.
We went with a mechanical gauge, the OG Nova wouldn't fit the space and I didn't want to add a module to make the ohm range work with Chevy Blazer sending unit that's in the tank.
Well,I'm sure I'm more'n likely not the first t ask;but, I'd really preciate any help you could give me on a full installation of the Nova screen... I actually owned my '72 Nova since high school; but, I was hurt in a work related forklift accident and now I'm totally disabled, so I'm not able to get in or out of it any longer!!! So, My best friend is like a brother to me and he wanted to buy it from me. Well, Bout 4 or 5 years ago I gave him my Nova under the stipulations that he could never sell the Nova and when he was done with it or God forbid if he was to pass away it would come back to me unless I pass before him then it's to go to son. I actually heavily modified it from it's factory beginnings;but, Now the Nova has taken on a whole new life from ladder bars to 4-linking, added a whole lot of more cage bars to get it certified for a faster class, added a fiberglass one piece frontend,a fiberglass rear deck lid,a pro street style rear spoiler, a rear fiberglass bumper, and cut as much excess weight that could be found out of it, and he has plans to put either fiberglass or carbon fiber doors on it also, new coilover shocks all around, two inch dropped front spindles, and a set of dual parachutes air operated out back...Well,I know that I've bored you with all of my rambling on; We had actually talked bout putting a Holley dash in the Nova; but, I believe you have jus given me a new option to possibly cure the money factor of using a Holley dash!!! Thanks so very much and God bless, Sincerely, Joe C.
1st Im sorry learn about your accident,Im glad you're still with us. I'm involved in safety at my plant and know 1st hand the dangers of those 8000 lb tools. Im eager to help in anyway I can. That Nova sounds like a pure ripper!! Please stay safe in that missile.
Wish I just knew how to hack modern cars like a Mercedes s550 or new Escalade monitor or System… I want a screen like that in my car but don’t know who to hack into it.
Yes, it has to be plugged in while the dash is on/key on. You could remove it daily if vehicle sits overnight if you want and plug it back up the next day. I plan on making a part 2 to this series to include Raspberry Pi and OBD2 splitter cables ,etc. to discuss pro/cons of each (Ive already discovered a glaring con for the Pi)
@@ismaelfilms5838 the gauge themself are embedded into each app (think as a skin), so each and every one I loaded worked. Torque app's customization gives you the ability to create your own with your own layout, gauge type (circle style, numerical digit,half needle, you name it man) gauge info,size/placement, custom background image. For an older app, its truly a handful. Real Dash has much cooler gauges that mimic the hottest cars out for a price & expense of customization.
This would also work on a cheap Chinese Android head unit from Amazon if u didn't need your gauges to be separate from your radio... No need for a phone or anything else other than the OBD2 device. Just install all those apps on the head unit and boom done.
That is good info !! Im running a Tesla radio in my Escalade (video on this very channel ) and can confirm that would work. This solution is for those who have a classic car and didn't wanna plaster a modern radio on the dash or like my Nova, that has really poor radio placement as well.
@@2muchspl Yeah, thanx btw cause I'm still gonna use your method in my 1st gen Chrysler 300c... Been looking for a way to give it a digital dash for years lol
They sell these same screens already running android (different then the head units ) several different kinds some marketed as review mirrors, some as visor screens some as information displays bunch of different sizes but all pretty much the same in abilities you can download apps like the phone.
Wow this is absolutely great info definitely got a sub from me I do have a question when u eliminate the the 110 inverter and timer with the larger cell battery I got lost do you only use the dual usd charger with the yellow wire? I have everything in the cart from your link want to buy but don’t want any mistakes thanks any info would help
That is correct, the yellow wire will still be needed to hook to a switched source to turn on the dual USB lighter. This is how the phone and display will turn on. The larger battery will only buy time before phone is depleted while driving & guages lost. I estimated I had about 1h40m of driving time on stock batt with no help from the external charger pushing charge directly to battery. The extended battery should get you North of 3+ hours. I do see a issue now that I'm typing this out to you. Without the external charger, (rem that it's a 110v and a 12v version of it), once your extended battery is depleted: how will it charge up? You will need 2 single USB lighters, one going to display,one going to phone and the timer still. The timer will hook to the phone USB lighter & allow the phone to begin recharging with key off (albeit slowly) and the other lighter will kill power to display with key off. All will be hooked to yellow wire still. Example of issue from above: you drive to Tennessee,3hr away. Phone is consuming more energy than it can be charged due to limitations and no simultaneous help from external charger. You arrive at Aunt JoAnn house & cut the car off,the phone will not charge. With 2 USB and timer, now when you cut car off phone will have a chance to build back up energy while you chill with auntie. Hope this makes sense. Of course you can just get the external 12v external charger and timer (sketchy shit) which would eliminate the invertor and solve issue same way I did.
I really wanted to do this so I’ll just replicate your exact setup I really appreciate the quick reply this info is actually golden blessings and I really thank you 🤝
They are more expensive, but it's best to get a flash programming power supply for in car programming. They supply a constant voltage and vary the current for this purpose. Low voltage and noisy voltage are what will brick a ECU while flashing.
You earned a subscriber with this one. I don't know how I haven't seen any of your videos before. You're a smart guy! I'm definitely gonna play with this
I believe that came default on it. Like a stick image, I do remember seeing the Cruz image and redirecting it back to the Escalade. But at end of day,it was preloaded on the radio out of the box
