Real Military vehicles and Military Models, Education, and “how to” tips and tricks. This is to support those who are in the hobby of bringing military vehicles back to life and building historical plastic military models. Includes “how to” demos of actual military vehicle work, product demos, kit reviews etc.
High concentration of TSP, let sit of half an hour, flush via drain ports. If that sounds a bit to aggressive, use Iron Out in powder form. It does the trick!!!
On the seal groove. I wonder if a lathe tool bit that instead of a cutting tool but a ball bearing off axis could be used to roll the sides of the groove down. And if a machine shop could replicate the flange bushing with a slightly undersized bore. Or if replacement axles are cheap enough not to bother. Only issue is if an undersized bushing will slide over the splines. Oh and you could make closely matched V blocks out of 6" pieces of 2x4 to have free standing v blocks to support the axle straight while measuring. Instead of in a bind
I have done (or have had done) engine (shop), transmission (shop), rear axle (me), and wiring (me). Front axle has made me nervous that it would be beyond my skill level, but it looks like something I can tackle. I am glad you are making these, I have referenced many of your videos for my projects. Most complicated was the coolant distro tube, I found the same solder blobs you did.
I had faith you would have a video out tonight 😂 if it makes you feel any better i did this to a deuce and a half, all 6 ends. Very time consuming for sure. My M37 will be a walk in the park after that experience. Keep those videos coming.
I was a 88 driver back in the late 80's at 24th Mechanized Infantry Division, (now 3rd I.D.), 4/64 Armor. Man diorama brings back memories. I started off with the M60A3. It would be great if one of these companies would make a M60 tank with full interior like Rye Field did with the M1.
Platinum cells leave the factory with an extra coating on the internal cell plates. This causes it to read higher upon installation (usually around 1000 ppm higher). You can remove a few inches of water and replenish with fresh water. As the extra coat wears away, you should start to see the levels normalize. The extra coating will actually extend the life of the cell just like the Genuine Extra Life salt cells. Standard cells read within 500 when 1st installed but don't last as long compared to the Salt Cells with Longer Warranty. Its recommend when installing the new extended life cell to run it at 2800ppm upon startup If you have any issues please reach out anytime we are here to help.
This is information that should come with the product so the customer isn’t freaking out on you guys. Glad you saw the video. So far since this video was produced, it is still working fine.
IN VIETNAM, we did the tire breakdown and tube repair using a pick Madoc. When you fpatched the tube and went to install the tire on the rim, you place the split rim facing the ground when airing it up. 1/2 hr
I am trying to recalibrate my salt level and it won't let me. And because the salt level is so high it won't generate. Ps does it matter which direction the generic cell is placed??
This looks very similar to a Chrysler 8.75" Hotchkiss type... The lube oil does travel twds the outer bearings by wrapping around the axles and traveling outboard... The sludge on the inside of the housing is a wax paste that has become klinged-on to it and the axles... The spindle carriers are the closed knuckle types and the main oil seals will be located on one of the case halves (probably the outboard) of the spindle carrier assembly... Also check for 'garlock' type seals on the case half pivot points... The exploded parts diagram is a good way to see what orientation the parts are installed, and their identification. And it is a good idea to read and understand the text of procedures of how to properly inspect, adjust & replace these parts... The manual that you used, is probably one of the most important tools of how to properly service & repair these expensive and now-Rare parts & equipment.... P.S.-The self locking fibre ring type of nuts , used to secure the 3rd member to the axle housing are probably authentic for this old vehicle, As those were OEM spec'd. prior to the more recent use of 'Nylon' to retain the nuts , even during severe vibration.... The method to test , if those nuts are still good is to Turn them onto a clean bolt (3/8-24 in this case). by using the fingers only.... If they can be turned by bare fingers, they need to be replaced, and if they can not be turned by bare fingers, they CAN be re-used... Always use the OEM parts whenever possible... This includes the hardware.... These rare classic vehicles are much more valuable , when equipped with their OEM Parts and hardware....
I have heard/read many bad reviews of these cells. Low life expectancy, not honoring warranties….. and some decent reviews. I guess when you pay less than 1/2 price of a new Hayward, your mileage may vary. Did you test you salt level with another tester? Like Taylor K1766 test? I find my Hayward S3 reads my salt at 3400, my digital hand tester says 3200, and Taylor drop test says 3,000. Thanks for the review and smart “bench” test!
Hmmm. Think of putting numbered tags on the sprues? Helps with other models like this.... Nice collection, BTW, great envy here. I love the level of detail that you incorporate into your models - really makes them alive!
Your outer seals were leaking, that's why the gunk was inside. Grease mixed with the differential oil.one of my previous comments I mean DOT5 in the braking system not the axles.😂 was tired when I posted it. DOT 3 draws moisture into the braking system causing corrosion and more maintenance. Truck is looking great. I have room for it when you're finished. 😂😂😂😂😅
@@WatsonsWagons I'm assuming your outer seals lost the spring that was what was on the shaft. Or maybe an older seal left a spring in there somehow. I've never been into a M37 yet but rebuilt an entire drivetrain on my buddies WC12 Dodge. Pretty much same setup. Except for the 80+ years of crud lol. I completely rebuilt center chunks, 4 axle ends, Transmission, transfer case, and driveshafts. A very nice accomplishment first time I had to get into one. Best of luck. Keep videos coming. Great work. Not too far from you in VA
What manual is that and where did you find it, I’ll be doing mine this summer to clean it up and inspect it for wear and any hidden problems so thanks for this video it gives me a heads up on what to expect
My family used to own this M151a1 sometime 1968. That howling noise is ur rear differential. We conclude it is a manufacturing defect of this particular vehicle. What we did is rebuild & reposition the differential body mounts wc is three. Reposition it to 180 degrees or fr 12:00 to 6:00 position...just as the same position as the front differential. Howling sound is gone forever w no bad effects... Howling sound is gone
2014 Chevy Silverado and same issue! Why GM made the grounds they did is crazy. Also have one underneath your driver side dash that you can clean. Replaced battery and alternator and still had same issue go to crank and no power. Clean all the grounds and check your starter. My truck has 146,000 miles on it. Love the Chevy truck but location of grounds needs to improve. Great video
A deeper problem is the post coming off of the starter to the solenoid. Basically a strap mounted to a stud had lots of corrosion on it. I had to clean all that off and put fresh washers in. It was arcing, and that arching caused the system to shut down.
Well I have collecting down to a science with means my house and huge garage look like a hobby shop. But I only have 3 huge shaves full of built models.
You are obviously into tanks 😂 you might like this RU-vid channel i watch, Mr Hewes. Its how we do things here in England. PS please keep the videos coming 👍
Avoid welding near electrical systems or with the battery connected. Make sure the battery is disconnected and all systems are shut down before the welding process. Electric current flowing through from the welder can damage or short circuit electrical components.
Use a piece of glass about 3x3 and some good sand paper and i bet you that machine aginst my only car i can get it to mate to the block just as good as you can
