My pedle will go nearly to the floor and there is a hissing noise when brake peddle is pressed. is this a symptom of a bad booster or could it be something else
I’m having this same issue and sometimes my car won’t even start as if the battery is dead I’ve had the battery tested it’s 12.39V. Sometimes if I open and close door it will finally start. Any suggestions?
I got a constant hissing noise coming from my break petal without even pressing it and there’s break fluid all over the carpet on driver side what could that be? And I gotta use my emergency break for breaks to even work!
Cylinder head bolts torque: 52 Foot Pounds + 90 degree, or 58 Foot Pounds + 90 degree ??? I noticed you torqued to 52 foot pounds, but I'm seeing spec's for this engine that say 58 ft lb + 90, I don't want to over torque aluminum threads. Can you provide guidance on which is correct (2003 Toyota Camry 2.4l) ? Maybe 58 ft lb is too much for the aluminum threads holding the cylinder head bolts? Thanks for the great video! I am able to proceed with confidence after watching all 4 vid's.
I got the torque spec straight off Mitchell. These have issues with the threads pulling on the aluminum blocks on the earlier models. If that happens, just get an insert and tap. Don’t waste the money on buying the kit they make. Just go to your local parts store and they should have a tap and insert that will fit.
I have never done one on the 5.7. I have done a lot of 3.6. I could look up what it calls for next week. Remind me next week and I will get back to you.
That’s great you got that many miles out of it. Most people don’t get that many miles sounds like you maintain your stuff really good! Let me know if you have any other questions.
Not sure yet. Just doing preliminary research on the best method. Not alot posted on youtube for this. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Working out of my neighbors garage that has a lift.
Pretty quick and informative. Never would have thought it would come out underneath. Two questions: DO you have a video reinstalling it from the bottom? Do have a video removing the 3.6 from the top on a Grand Cherokee?
@@MikeSmith-dz5yq I have always just dropped them out the bottom! I don’t have a video of going back down. You just drop it back down. I have never taken it out of the top. They are so tight to come out the top. Are you going to try and take it out of the top? If so I would be interested to see how it goes!
Your videos have been very helpful pulling the engine out of my 07. I'm about to unbolt the transmission. Wondering if I need to drain the transmission fluid first?
Please help. I have same problem. After the cleaning hybrid battery fan. I did all things right. During the process I never touched12v battery. I took out and put it back orange thing properly. My 12v battery is new. Before cleaning job everything was ok.
Did you get it figured out? I would make sure everything is hock up that you took apart. Also make sure you got two clicks from your safety fuse I have thought I have gotten them clicked in all the way and I really haven’t!
@@csautomotive12you are awesome. I should have push down orange shit. I just did push forward and close the hook. After closing the hook also it needs to be push down. Now everything is ok. THANK YOU.
What’s average labor cost hours to replace 2014 jeep grand Cherokee 3.6 Dealer is telling me I have 2 dead cylinders but can’t tell me what caused it. I was thinking maybe timing was off or chain broke but they didn’t tell me anything.
It was pretty smooth. The rear cat was a bit of a pain but did what you said and not bad. Car is up and running at my shop. Keep up the great content bro and god bless you 🙏🏼
I just got the front calibers changed with all 4 brake pads and I have brought 2 mechanics to bleed it and it still has air in it do you think they installed the calibers wrong ?
Yay i get to do this soon all because both mount bolts sheared off in the trans block. Super cool! Totally cant wait. The temptation to jb weld the mount to the block ia strong.
@@csautomotive12 i have yet to be actually up under it yet to see what kind of access there is for that or how much of the bolt is actually exposed. From what ive seen on a picture it looks like none of the bolt is exposed. Gonna dig deeper into it tomorrow. Hopefully its easy enough to get out myself.
@@csautomotive12 trans has to be replaced. The aft trans mount, the torque mount. 3 out of the 4 bolts that go into the block broke the block at the holes, literally exploded the blocks mount holes. and the other remaining bolt is sheared off into the block. The only fix is a trans swap. Glad i found your video looks like im definitely doing this sooner than later.
@@csautomotive12 is there any specific seals, gaskets or other consumable materials i should get when doing this? Gonna buy a reman trans in the next few weeks.
2009 Prius. Triangle light, check engine light and vsc light came on. We drove it to the dealer it died within 1mile. There is power. No lights however come on in dash display. Can't put it into neutral. Saw light smoke coming out of engine oil fill point. Can smell electrical like burn smell slightly...even near fuse box under hood. Still lively sounds working car when break compressed and we push start, but no start. No neutral. Had it towed to dealer. Batteries all tested and good. Two codes but they can't make sense of it but dealing with ignition start stop. Any ideas? Thanks in advance. They can't get into their shop cuz it won't go into neutral
Man, this job is going to be fun with no air or electric tools. 🤦♂️ Very good series on this, though. It will be a big help to me. Definitely helped me realize I'm lacking a few essential tools, though. Better to know now than get stuck in the middle of the project. Thank you for this series.
@csautomotive12 Possibly more than you'd care to answer, lol... But if I get hard stuck, I'll keep you in mind. Actually... Do you know anything about ECM replacement in these? Separate issue from the head gasket, but the original ECM was throwing a few codes. 1 was the Bank 1, Sensor 2 o2 sensor, but the other two were duplicate p0606/processor faults that were persistent and wouldn't clear. So I got a used ECM from a salvage yard and installed it. No codes, and it passed its self-diagnostic. But now the car is only getting a very weak spark (dull orange color). It ran for months with the bad head gasket, but then quit even trying to start. That's when I discovered the fault codes and got the replacement ECM. Plenty of fuel pressure (48psi coming out of the regulator while cranking) and good compression on 3 of the 4 cylinders. Security light goes out when putting the original key in, so I don't suspect the immobilizer feature to be the issue. I have heard that the ECM needs to be reprogrammed to the car... something to do with communicating with the rest of the systems properly? I'm at a loss there. Most of my experience and expertise is from OBD-I and earlier. But unless I figure this part out, the head gasket issue is pretty moot. Any thoughts?
I have 2003 camry.. Wonder how its heating up all off sudden.. Showed to mechanic. He saw its bubbling in radiator n said its gasket need to be replaced.. Was checking how complicatee it is... You made it look easy with all required tools handy.. Thanks again for the video... How much would be repair cost. Approx so we get fair idea...
Thanks for the comment. It’s a common problem on the 2.4 liter. It’s hard to say on the cost. There’s a lot that goes into the job. Every state has different labor rates. Hope that helps. Also sometime it’s cheaper to put a motor in them than to do the head gasket.
@@csautomotive12 I appreciate you taking the time to respond, I scanned the car it had a throttle actuator code, changed the throttle body and it’s running great again, thanks!
