Great job on the video. Thanks for doing that. I’d like to do it to my truck. I would like to just do the delete kit. Do I have to do a tune? What did you do thank you.
@oscariturralde1270 The truck was tuned by the previous owner, with components still in place. Except for the dpf was removed & replaced with straight pipe. Later when I had the time & the kit I removed the components to fully delete it. You have to tune it to delete the dpf & egr. When doing the tune delete make sure to unplug the flapper valve on intake horn & the dpf will have to be removed, replaced with a muffler or straight pipe. If no muffled it will be loud.
The truck is more responsive with components removed, maybe spools up quicker because less volume to pressure up in the exhaust manifold with egr cooler removed, or better flow with out the flapper valve. A further improvement will come from removing the grid heater I suspect.
@@Reiginleaf good to go. Smart 450 2002-2006 is not that complicated. The tip can be plugged or worn out, or the driver to open injector can be weak. I never heard about re-coding injectors, I will have to google that tern.
Rubber gets old, most manufactures give there tires a life of 6-10 years, "10 year maximum". Tires on a daily driven auto will get changed out long before then. But on a rv that is in storage most of the year the tires can expire before any real mileage is driven on them. Manufacturers say the characteristics of the tire changes as the rubber ages, gets harder less pliable. I have had old tires blow out when a newer tire would not under same conditions. But those tires where 30 years old. Still, a heavey diesel pusher with tile floors & hard wood cabinetry going down the road at 110km hr. It would be best to not have aging tires on it, regardless of the tread wear. Commercial truck might get put out of service for old tires, an Rv if obviously old & cracked tires you might get a ticket.
Bonjours super vidéo la mienne a 3 barre au tableau de bord elle demare pas et quand elle et sûr neutre impossible de la pousser elle et bloquer sur place
is that a icarsoft 2.0? does it work on the smart car? you flat landers get million dollar motorhomes for pennies and us coastal guys get million dollar yachts for free
It's an Icarsoft HD V3.0. It works pretty good for the spartan chassis. Yes, it works with the Smart Car too. Scans heavey trucks & auto's, good low cost scanner.
A guy up the street has a tour bus looking RV for sale, maybe around the same age as this 25 years old, selling for 75k and it was gone the next day lol
Yes,it took some time to find a neglected one that was affordable. looked for 1 year, found 3. Everything going up in value, 5 years ago could find these for less.
after you brush it clean you have to put some loctite on it to prefent the bolt from coming loose, you can see that it already has some on it (the blue stuff on the bolt threading) else it will vibrate loose.
Good. It was 34°c here. I had 4 bubbles on dash & cooling fan was running at every stop. I didnt notice any loss in power. It ran great with out the intercooler.
Got the same issue, had to tow it home. Has your fixe lasted - has the rod punched thru once more? So, a 12 mm flange nut. But I have no welder. I was thinking of epoxying the nut to the shaft, since it’s only pushing. Any thoughts if this could work? Many thanks.
Yes It only pushes but the shaft is not tight all the time. Best is to weld it or thread the nut on the shaft if have a tap & die set. Could grind tip to right size to take correct size die for threads. Jb weld probable best epoxy, they make a putty that mush up & makes a pretty strong bond. If you have 2 car batteries & 2 sets jumper cables you could weld with that. Use a small diametre welding rod & that should do it to keep it on there. Just a thought. Make sure protect your eyes. Yes the fix has lasted 40k km so far.
@@manbuilds1587 tapping seems to make most sense at this point. You mention you rounded the tip of the nut, to get a better contact area, right? Glad to know your fix has lasted this long, but I don’t understand why the hole sorta stays the same size over time. You would think it would open up further with use.. but then, if it works and there are few other options, I’m not complaining. Hey thanks for the tips and just plain responding - I feel confident this may work. Have a good one and best of luck with the car.
Alot of prople have problems with there intercooler. Parts expensive or hard to find. I also wondered if it was actually doing anything. The little car has trouble to get up to temperature. Hotter air coming in help with combustion. It seems to run better without. Gets up to temp faster & seems quicker, weather that is from reduced restriction better flow or warmer air coming in. Anyway I think is better without now that I have removed it. Yes i could have put a fan switch but that would not have answered any questions I had & would give me one more thing to do & think about when driving.
I dont know how to measure that. Probable some metric size. Amazon, Ebay, Auto wrecker, Mercedes dealer. New one might come with a turbo cartridge kit.
How low a bit low? 6.7l everything is computer controlled. Possible the Alfa obd scanner/programmer can adjust factory Idle setting, best not to play with it though. If lower than should be then perhaps have a failed sensor somewhere, but if it is just preference, I would leave it alone to factory spec. Can always put it on high idle.
Problem is that need something firm that cant be pushed out & sqweeze past, as well not impeeding the slide out. Could glue some hard foam rubber blocks in place to the underside in the gap. Could staple steel wool in place. If you have a heated basement, chances are they come up from the basement through the furnace. Could put a screen over the end of the duct before comimg into furnace or stuff duct with steel wool. The ducting to furnace are all twist lock. Just turn it to remove it from the furnace, if gonna close it off or put a screen. If parked for extended duration I still put spray foam or if parked day or 2 I stuff some steel wool in there. When I closed off the heated basement then the issue stopped. Also traveling with a cat is not a bad idea either :) Mice seem to disappear when cat around. Probable smell the cat.
What does the spray foam do when you go to put the slide in? Yeah I got a heated basement but have mouse tray right by where that gap it and I catch them right there.
@@TysonDuff could stick some plastic wrap on underside of slide before put some foam. When the foam dries it should leave a pretty good seal that will allow the slide to go in & out. Wont hurt nothing as long as let the foam dry before moving slide or touching it. Thats a great Idea. I might make a video of doing that to share with other having that same problem.
these go for almost nothinc on ebay you buy arunning one under 500 hours with a gen set for 1500 on ebay few lidstings for back up power gen sets from old shops etc out of an old worn out truck is ant 1 even going to buy it at all id doubt it
what i am looking for,in Nov we head back to Arizona and we boondock,i also watched your vide on the hitch receiver,,thanks...need to find a water tank for my 2006 smart car,something not to heavy because when not in use i will have to take it out
That tank is a little over a 50 gal. At the water fill station 50 gal is the min amount to fill. That tank came out of a old 5th wheel camper that I pulled apart & put in a garbage bin to the dump.
Hi. What exact model is this please, and is that an add-on speedo guage on the left behind the wheel? That's amazing economy, i am just pondering buying one of these cars right now. Is the engine a chain or belt timing? Thanks.
2004-2006 Smart 450 Cdi Diesel .8L 44hp. Yes it is a timing chain. Depending on oil you use & change intervals. The timimg chain is good for at least 300km. Most likely Longer if short oil change intervals & quality oil. Most dont make it that dlfar down the road due to the cat plugng up & burning out the turbo or the clutch rod wearing through the yoke. But if kow about & address those issue the cars are very reliable & last a long time.
Its a Mercedes, so if you are not mechanicaly inclined & take to the dealer they will charge ypu a small fortune for repairs. If you buy one make sure you have 2 working keys for it, where all the buttons work for both. Cost you 400.00 to get another key programmed in at Mercedes. Best milage of any car put there. Electrics included.
It has 3 cats total. 2 cats, 1 for each side of the exhaust manifolds. O2 sensor before & after those. Then the third larger cat downstream, the one I cut off. Is placed after all o2 sensors. Could be normal, I never had a look at other 5.4l 3v.
Just did mine a few hours ago. This video saved me big-time money because I thought my blower motor was going out due to the loud noise and vibration. I did everything you did, replaced the dirty clogged up cabin filter and cleared out soooo much debris. Now it runs quiet and smooth again. Thanks a bunch. This video really helped.
@@milanjovanovic6259 it could mean that. Have to check the turbo itself to know for sure. If lots of play on turbo shaft tjen time to change. It seems all turbos on smart diesels leak a little. When running there is no leak but as soon as shut off they leak a bit of oil into intake. I never had a turbo right from new to see if they do that when new or when tbey stary to leak a bit. But I have put 100,000km on a smart with a leaky turbo & have had no issues. Every smart i have owned has leaked a bit of oil from the turbo when shut off. If its leaking excessive oil & leaking while running then that is a different story & time to change turbo cartridge.
You should be using closest to the recomended fluid requirements. Mercedes gives you a fluid number & you can compare the fluid specs of other fluid manufacturer that is readily available. Or use the oil from Merc. Automatic tramsmissions & manual transmissions are similar in that they both have gears. There oil has to lubricate the same parts. but one also has clutch packs & a tourque converter. The oil is thinner but does the same job. Most manual transmissions use gear oil. Do not use gear oil !!. It will most likely be too thick, you will have shifting issues.
It is a automated manual transmission that specifies ATF (ATF that meets Dexron 3 specs, I believe). There many other manual transmissions that use ATF. The thing that complicates it is that sealed bearings are used in this transmission so that changing the ATF may not help prolong or improve the function of the transmission. Some have reported never changing the ATF while exceeding 200,000 kms without issue. I changed mine early (30,000 kms when I bought it) just to remove any junk left from the manufacturing process.
Nice work, however you could have made your life easier by removing the whole mirror, take it apart, remove the metal shaft from the base (3 screws) to free up the whole cast iron assembly then press fit the ring and locking clip by using the same clamp and a socket that fit over and allows enough room for the shaft to go 3/4 of the way until you hear it click in. 😊 Hope this helps other people
