A Unique perspective on my life working on all sorts of stuff from solar systems, home remodeling, drone flying, electronics, and much more. I like to compare and contrast different scenarios and products in order to better educate my self and others. Most of my videos are roughly tutorial based. Thanks for checking in, and please follow as it encourages me to learn more.
@@starrgodinez8416 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ifymd3cV-Qg.htmlsi=nn4o8UKNKYCPoVfP This video in the link above is actually the MN3024 that I am using for setting the battery parameters for a LiFePo4. I will have a more comprehensive video in the future. Thanks for checking in!
I've 3 of these 60 amp controllers. One for over 2 years and the other two over a year. Other than the older one reading .2 volts higher than the other two, I have no complaints about them.
Eco worthy should give a setting number for us if we are using their battery. They should know your battery well indeed. I saw they have some number for some lithium setting in the manual but not sure if any of that is for the 12v 280ah battery i got from them. Currently, i just bring up a 2s2p with that battery. Waiting for some cable to come to complete that
@@HuyTran-zy9sv yeah, it's difficult as this controller is a rebranded item, and even then there are so many different batteries with individual BMS systems, sizes, etc., that it would be difficult to accommodate them all. Even the different size Eco Worthy batteries have different parameters. That's why I think learning how to set your battery parameters is important.
I change parameters similar to you and also compared with numbers for the battery from them which is similar. The app always showing around 60% SOC all the time. All 4 battery are fully charged with eco worthy charger before hooking them up together. One more thing, i use AC charging from my eg4 system to charge this but it limit at 500w range only. I dont see setting that limit this
Cool! I just installed one on my RV. I got tired of having to monitor the battery located under the bed by hand. Got surprised on a camping trip a couple of weeks ago when the battery shut down in the middle of the night. So far so good!
@@Utah_Mike so far the Victron Smart Shunt is my favorite, and the Renogy BT300 is decent (and less expensive), but can have connectivity issues. The Victron is pretty seamless for setting up.
Good morning thanks for the video. Do you use a blue tooth module with the rover 60amp ? I have a 60 and a 2000watt charge invertor and having connective problems with bt2 to either . The power light in the bt2 with come on but when searching can’t be found .
Yes, I've had the same problem. It ended up being the BT module itself and when I tried a different one it connected right away. Another time it happened I tried a different sequence to connect and that worked. I will attach a link to that video.
This is powering a 10k BTU window mount air con. If I was to power central air, I would need to step up to a 48v DC to 220 AC inverter, in addition to a larger panel array and battery bank. Fortunately we live in a small house and this seems to do the job for now.
@@Tool_Shed_Talk I’ve been thinking of getting a window unit to run on my ecoflow delta pro. Only have 400 watts of panels outside currently. Still attempting to design the mounting for 1500 watts worth of bifacial panels
@@ngk330 yeah, what's saving me is once my batteries are at full charge, the aircon is running strictly off of the panels, at that's usually during the hottest part of the day. It's great to keep the house chill off the sun alone. I'll be installing a surge protector soon in order to smooth out small irregular voltage spikes. That will help protect the aircon circuitry for a longer life.
@aroundthehomesteadwithsuer3497 I thought I would tag you here so you could approve, or disapprove, of my Midnite Solar install. Thanks for all the great info you've provided on your videos.
@@Tool_Shed_Talk my problem is I need my long part of the panel going left and right, due to the trailer I’m going to use and the dimmensions I need. Still trying to plan, but I think this strut channel could come in handy.
Please I wanted to know how’s your 2000watt inverter from renogy doing ? Because I’m planing to get one for myself too .. I’m asking if it’s doing great before I get it or I go for Giandel inverter product .
Which 2k Renogy inverter do you plan on getting? I have two different ones that have both worked well. One of them did have an issue and it was replaced, and the other one is still running well. I will have a video soon covering that topic..
@@Ben6n I really liked that one because it worked well with the Renogy One Core and I could monitor it remotely. In saying that, it did malfunction, but Renogy did exchange it.
Hi Gary, could you explain how to delete a device from the DC app? The app is showing initialization failure for the core1 and suggesting that I delete it and re install it. I have tried but no sucess, any ideas? Thanks for making great informative videos.
@@Tool_Shed_Talk Thanks, I might have stumbled across part of the problem, my ancient IPhone 5s is probably the culprit lol! Tried setting it up using a newer IPad and it all works at the moment. Pairing the Bluetooth Shunt is the biggest pain but after yet another update it seem to be ok. Only trouble is the Update seems to have broken the RV Levelling! It won’t calibrate now. Oh well, wait for another update I suppose. Cheers.
Thanks Gary...so Juice it up with the PV and set my voltage specs ..and then add the batteries..?...which is a crazy solution cuz I'm sure they always recommend you have your batteries attached before you connect your Pv otherwise you can blow your charge controller...🤦..luckily Renogy agreed to a warranty .so .my rover is on its way back ...hopefully the new one just works out of the box without any tricks 😉
No, you want to power up with your batteries first, and then your panels. That was my mistake as I was feeling a bit out of it this morning from allergies or something. What they recommended was to set your controller to the preffered 24v setting, and then disconnect everything, and then reconnect. Batteries first, panels second, load last, LOL... Sorry about the mistake! Fortunately it was just one panel and not a large string or array. That would have had a larger impact..
I thought it was better to connect batteries first, then the panels? I'm still happy with my Renogy setup on my motorhome. Sticking with 12v, just easier. I also am buying used panels. I found a good deal with Santan Solar. 10 230w used Trina panels shipped for $350. Still putting out plenty of power. I want to setup a 48v system at my cabin. My ultimate goal is to heat water with a DC element. Keep the good work up, thanks for posting your videos.
Yeah, that was my mistake. I was pretty tired this morning and had some random train of thought that a load also included the battery. In saying that, it was only one panel and not a significant amount of power compared to having a large string or array. That sounds like a great deal on panels by the way. I am not totally unsatisfied with Renogy, but I have had enough problems with it at this time that I really don't trust it for my remote off-grid needs. I usually have enough things happening project wise to have to stop and deal with the source of my power, if that makes sense. I do believe that it will work great in my outdoor kitchen that I have been working on here at my city place, and for what its worth I did connect the BT 300 shunt to my 24v system and it connected right away and seems to be working great. Thanks for pointing that out and watching my videos. More to come....
Gary, im both relieved and appalled your having the exact same problem as i have. This warranty procedure is like pulling teeth, Much like your other user i don't have time to wait for replacement, so i purchased another charge controller (Not Renogy) and the system is working perfectly. Ill wait for the replacement and swap it out at some point and see what happens, as i like to use the Renogy App, Or at least ill have a spare or ill sell it. IDK, but im DUN with Renogy.
@@akshonclip I went with a Chinese model off Amazon which seems to be well reviewed,, fairly intuative interface, but no BT connectivity, which is why ill wait for the renogy to come back from warranty, So i can use my renogy One again.
I’m on my third Renogy One in 16 months. The warranty claims process is absolutely ridiculous. It takes weeks just to get them to admit there is a problem. I can’t wait a month to get my system back online so I was forced to buy a replacement. They won’t refund my money and will only send a replacement.
Yeah, they obviously don't do any rigorous testing, and it's ridiculous how long it takes to get anything serious taken care of. Seems like they were better about it last year (for me anyways), but I think they are getting overwhelmed with flawed and failing products. They would be better off focusing on fewer products and perfecting them.
I'm trying to warranty mine now for exactly the reason of this video...they keep giving me rediculous suggestions...(I think this video is about me.haha)
Thanks Keith, so far it's been working well. I'll be putting it to the test here in the future and see how well it can handle decent loads for an extended period of time.
I'm having a similar problem..I have two rover 60s... Both connected to indentical strings of panels.. the new rover I just installed is throwing the same error..even tho the settings between the Rovers are identical .and hooked to the same 24 volt battery bank ...I'll have to try setting the voltage disconnect to higher...it's at 14.4 right now as well
@@Tool_Shed_Talk rover is set to 24volt...and Type Li (Lithium). All the other settings are default to that type..and match the other controller.....even in user mode..setting can't be adjusted past 17 volts
@@flasha29 gotcha, and interesting that the user options can't be set for greater than 17v. I may take a look at that this weekend as I currently have a 24v system in place from a different manufacturer. It wouldn't be too difficult to reconnect my Rover and run through the settings for 24v, and it would make a good video! Thanks...
Thank you for explaining this. I have 2 of the rover 40's and have never hooked up to the load terminals. Ive been turned on and off the inverter manually when i leave which is before light and get home after dark to run my chest freezer. I now can add a small inverter to the load and plug the freezer into it to save me a step in my day. Great video!
Hey and thanks for checking in. I'm not sure really, but I don't think so. I tried connecting the Renogy BT dongle to my Midnite Solar controller and it didn't work. They are both rebranded SRNE controllers. In saying that there might be something I over looked in the settings that determines what the rs485 port is used for on my Midnite MN3024, as in WiFi vs BT. Once I have a little more time I may look into that..
Thanks mate, what is your advice for cable size in connecting 2 x100Ah batteries, max output will be via 2000w inverter. Thinking of using the 4awg cables that came with the inverter (not for the investor connection) just battery to battery.
Honestly, I use 2 AWG or larger for all battery connections, and battery to inverter connection. That allows up to about 100 amps, and you can't go wrong for the most part. Depending on where you are located, I usually buy bulk battery or welding cable by the foot at a battery retail and repair store. Then I custom cut to length and crimp on appropriate size lugs.. I actually have a video on that.. thanks for checking in!
@@Tool_Shed_Talk thanks mate, appreciate the reply. I was looking at welding cable, it seems to have a much higher amp rating for its diameter and is very flexible also. Was wondering if it was in the “too good to be true” basket because it is also much cheaper. I live in a very remote part of Australia so most purchases are made via the internet rather than being able to see things before buying them, doesn’t always end well. Particularly with lugs, hard to find quality lugs with decent wall thickness.
don't worry about the video quality it looks fine! Some people capture the computer screen using Screen Capture software, but your quality is really ok, really it is. Keep up the good work, keep focusing on the reviews and functionality (what works and doesnt work - extremely helpful), that's all people really care about. You've been the most help I've found anywhere yet, because your straight to the point!! BTW, I dont usually subscribe to anybody.. but I subscribed to your channel, for what it's worth. I have a the One Core, and two "Pro" 100aH BT batteries, which do show up in the One Core.... only thing I dont like so far is the slow-ish update rate of all components (One Core, DC Home App, they all seem the same).. 5-10 seconds is seems is all you get, BUT, the main thing is the internet connectivity.. I may just keep my Junktek (lol) Battery Monitor in the RV cabin since it is 2x per second and pretty accurate also, but definitely use Renogy app for everything else. Anyhow, you've helped a ton with my decisions, really appreciate it.
Honestly, I hope you did not buy another one of these controllers. You will just be pissing away more money. Renogy software for the small units (BT-1 or BT-2 types)has been crap for years. Looking at the price point and all of the weird issues you are seeing I had wondered a few things. Looking at the transcript, I did not see 100% what kind of battery you are using. Temp compensation is NOT used on LiFePO4 since the BMS handles that part if you buy a good battery. However, for AGM, temp temp compensation is required. The PV voltage looked to be 4*100 watt series which is well within the specs. However, one thing I disagree with is to run your monitoring solution on your load circuit. I have never seen that done anywhere! Initially, I thought you might be getting voltage spike into the monitoring unit or even DC ripple causing the computer chip to throw errors. I will REMOVE that application from the unit to see IF you get stability and reboot the controller and monitor system too. Look for any way to reconcile or adjust the battery voltage and controller voltage to the SAME voltage without ANY load. Good controllers have a voltage sense device, and I don't think Renogy has that at all! For the money, buy 2 returned Victron Energy units (Smart Solar MPPT 100/30) as they run new at about $108-$115 I have Renogy, MNS, MS, Aims, Outback, and VE controllers but I no longer use or trust Renogy controllers where my batteries are concerned. For Victron, you need a smart shunt, voltage/temp sense, and the controllers and you are DONE! You can easily parallel the two 30a controllers and network them together and add on as needed. I even built a raspberry pi for remote / internet monitoring and it just plain works! Gary from SE Mich.
Hey Gary, no I didn't purchase another one of these controllers, but I did aquire a "new" refurbished one for free. Battery wise I have 4x 12.8v 200ah Eco Worthy LiFePo4 batteries connected in parallel via busbar. I don't use the temp probe for compensation, mostly just to monitor room temp and positive charge terminal. Renogy tech said that does not matter, but... who knows. For PV array I have 2s2p configuration (two string with 4x panels in series connected in parallel) using the Renogy 100 watt panels. I have most definitley connected the One Core monitor system directley to the battery bank, via a fused BluSea fuse block. Soon this system will be moved to a different application, and I have a different system (Midnite) that I will replace it with and will hopefully it will proove to be more reliable. It is also a 24 volt system that should be easier on the batteries. There will be a video on that soon. Also, there is some Victron content coming in the future. Thanks for watching, and thanks for the advice. It has been noted for sure. Gary from Southern Oregon... P.S. I believe that I have figured out a solution that works, but I am watching it carefully before I post a video on that.
I have heard a lot positive things about Victron and have been giving them some thought. I pulled out the battery book and went through the Renogy controller to make sure that all the totals that the book specifies jive with what is entered in the Renogy and they do. Turned the system on this morning and the monitor shows 99% with battery voltage at 13.4V whilst the Renogy shows it at 69%, mind you the voltage shown on the Renogy also shows 13.4V. I checked all the voltages at all the connect with the system turned off so that I could get and accurate reading and 13.4V everywhere, just boggles the mind. Today is a beautiful sunny day so I am going to run the system and drain it down some and see what it shows, Hopefully I will not get the "BOV" error. Funny though as the monitor slowly goes down as I drain the system and it gets to where it shows say something like 70% or so, the Renogy does the opposite and shows it at 90%, pure crazy. Have to wait and see what it does today.
@@sejac1232 yeah the Renogy SOC is haywire at best, better to use a shunt. I do have a fix for the over voltage alarm and I'll post a video this weekend.
Definitely not corrected, just replicating what is happening. I will try the same disconnect, but at lower SOC charge level tomorrow and see if it responds the same. This will hopefully help me narrow down the problem and rectify it, if it can be? I will post a longer video later...
No, it doesn't solve my initial issue, but by replicating the action, I can hopefully narrow down the reason behind the error. I will post a longer video later on tonight or tomorrow morning going through the whole process. I am also going to try some other options to see if I can eliminate the problem, if it's even possible. I do have another controller that's exactly the same as that one that's never been used. I may try hooking it up tomorrow or the next day with the same exact settings. If it does not throw up a high voltage disconnect error, then we will know what's the controller.
I did hear back from them the night before last, but I wasn't completely satisfied with their recommendations due to having a short explanation that countered previous suggestions. I'm hoping to hear from them soon so I can offer a more detailed solution in my next video regarding this problem.
Enjoyed the video, thanks for putting them all together was much easier to follow along. As explained I am having the same problem with my Renogy 60A controller. It worked fine for over 6 months and now I am getting the same BOV "battery over voltage" error. Wednesday of this week I disconnected everything from my system and charged each of my 4 12v 100ah batteries separately to full charge, let them set for 24 hours, checked the voltage of each one 13.5 volts. Friday reconnected the system, reset the LNEX battery monitor, reset the Renogy and let it sit with no load or input from the Solar panels. This morning got up watched this video and went it and turned my system on. The LNEX battery monitor shows the batteries at full charge 100% at 399mah, but the Renogy only shows the batteries at 70% soc "State of Charge". So I checked the voltage at the batteries 13.4v. checked the voltage at the shunt, 13.4, checked the voltage at the inverter, 13.4, check the voltage at the Renogy 13.4. I know the LNEX monitor is correct with 100% soc but why the crazy Renogy controller only shows 70% is crazy. At this point I am like you in thinking that the controller has gotten messed up, it use to work fine. I look forward to your future videos to see what the remedy for this problem is. If you could, can you please email me at sejac3@hotmail.com with your POC at Renogy so that I can explain to them that I am having the same "battery over voltage" error as you. Thank you
Thanks for the video, I am having a Battery over Voltage error on my Renogy that I am trying to discover why? I think it is because my solar panels are putting out more voltage than I am using, although I am not sure.
I've been having some issues with that myself, and not sure why as my system is so Renogy put together to their specs. As I learn more I will post about it. Meanwhile, how is your system configured?
I had the same problem with my new batteries. I just installed two new ADCBATT 12.8V 100AH batteries last weekend. I am using a Renogy Rover 40A MPPT charge controller. I went to the battery manufacturers website and found a new version of their manual. I set the equalize voltage to 14.0V. Boost and float voltages were set to 13.8V. This fixed the issue for my batteries. I would strongly recommend checking your battery manufacturers website for a manual. And use their recommended settings. Best of luck.
Same problem here, but according to the Victron it's never overcharged. I just got the smart shunt, still keeping the Victron for the history. Now the whole system is Renogy which is 4 175 watt flexible solar panels, 4 170ah, 2k inverter, 50amp dc/dc 60 & 40 rover, smart shunt, 400 watt solar blanket, and 200 watt folding solar panel. Almost 5 years running with 254 charge cycles. The most I get with full charge is around 530ah. I beat these bad boys up with my steam shower. The steamer takes about 100 amps to run.
Garbage product. No history or daily info. You can only see current temp and humidity. If u select home on the One core its not even in the home tab. Any smart connected temp sensor has months or even years to info stored.
Well for the price, it works pretty nice. Maybe as time goes on it will be improved upon. Thanks for checking in though, and it would be nice if it did track history. Why lie!
That's too bad really, I was hoping that it would record temp history actually. Then when I realized it didn't, I was like, "well at least I know the temp of my shed!" lolz. In saying that, I always wondered why their temp probes for the Rover and the BT Shunt 300 didn't track the temp history either. it would be nice to know what the temps were through the day. Today my Rover had a pretty significant malfunction, and I really wanted to know what the temp of the controller was when it happened.
@@Tool_Shed_Talk renogy doesnt seem to care about software. Their shunt history data only show current data and end of day data. The only thing that has a history is their solar controller. Even thats pretty poor data info. I end up returning the solar controller and got a Victron. Just from their solar controller i can view history down to the minute in a graph. Viewable graph data in solar watts, solar volts, amp current, battery voltage and battery amps.
Does the One Core display the shunt 300 information on the home screen? I saw that someone was able to get the shunt information to display on the home screen of the One Core, but he didn't say how he did it.
So Yes, in a way. The battery level does show up on the home screen allowing to to see the level of charge remaining. It came with a new update not to long ago. Thanks for checking in, and I hope that was an answer to your question.
Also, when you tap on the BT Shunt 300 icon, it pulls up all the data you want, and more. Everything from, watts being used and charging, amps, voltage, etc .
Thanks for another informative video. We are presently on a 2 month RV trip travelling around Tasmania, Australia. Other than our batteries 2x140AH we have a Renogy system. We’ve noticed that the Core One is very warm to touch, it operates correctly and we operate both Renogy shunts. I’ve contacted Renogy and they have responded well indicating that the acceptable operating temperatures are 20-70 Celsius. It probably operates at 50 degrees. If you put your hand on your Core One is it hot to touch?
when i connect via dc home app to core one then goto direct connect it wont let me because the devices are still connected via blu tooth to core one ?? am i doing something wrong please ?
When i goto direct connect the items i have ( bt2 on a solar controller & shunt 300 ) are grayed out and dont pop up even when refreshing , if i then look at there bt lights they are lit and still connected to the one core ? If i turn the one core off , they work
I'm having a similar issue but mine is the voltage threshold. I need to up it but it's not saving. I'll have to try this next time I'm in my camper. On another note, I see you have a Renogy inverter. Are you able to turn it on and off with Renogy One Core in the same way an inverter remote switch does? Thx.
I wish I could shut it off, and the controller also. It would be a great way to have more control over your system remotely! In saying that i really do like this new edition inverter, and the fact that it communicates with the one Core and DC Home systems. I only wish the they had the same inverter, but a larger 3k capability!
@@Tool_Shed_Talk I fixed my shunt issue. Thanks for the video. I have one of the new 2000w inverters on order. I'm curious to see how low the standby power consumption is.
I got the Battery Shunt 300. Works great with the One Core and DC App. Went ahead, tried the online portal and the shunt still doesn't show up. Make no sense to why a company like Renogy doesn't have all their ducks in a row. They keep coming out with a bunch of new stuff that is not compatible with each other. I like the shunt, I have it sitting on my new Vatrar 460ah battery. It has it's own bluetooth, so I was able to sync the proper SOC with the shunt 300. I will cancel my subscription until they make the fix. I will wait for your update. Thanks for your content.
Yeah, it seems as though their engineers may be over worked a bit, and not able to keep up with demand. In saying that, I wouldn't know where to start with not only the circuit engineering, but the coding also when it comes to having all these implements communicate with each other using the Internet, 😂 I hope they figure it out, because they actually have a really good small system. Just a few bugs left to work out!
@@anekinoo7 I think Victron makes some nice stuff, just more than I want to spend on my setup. The Renogy setup I have so far, solar controller, smart shunt, and wifi monitor all for under $400. I don't have a large setup, it's in my Motorhome that I use occasionally.
@@peterkueffner747 i have a small setup as well on my tear drop trailer. Having decent data is more important. I will keep the one core and solar controller but im returning the shunt. The lack of info available bugs me. The victron shunt provides way more info. Battery info and usage is important for me. The victron has the usage/charge graph on the phone. The renogy you need a $3/mo subscription and you need to use it on a computer for the portal. The subscription isnt worth it when other companies do it for free and available on the phone.
@@peterkueffner747 i have a small setup as well. Tear drop trailer. Theres next to no data compared to any company. I will keep the one core and solar controller but im returning the smart shunt. Battery info is the most important. U cant see anything like the graph unless u pay for a subscription and use a computer to see the data. The victron shunt cost less and shows all the info on the phone for free. Renogy charges $3/mo and needs a computer to see the info.
This is how I set up and hooked 3 forklift batteries together, I cut each cell apart so I could move the cells one at a time because they 100lbs a piece, once I got all cells in place for all 3 batteries, I hooked together in series to get 24 volts for each battery, then hooked all three batteries together in parallel, and used same size alluminum bar stock to make each connection and used plasti-dip to coat the allumium bar in between each connection to keep from corrosion and from accidentally touching and shorting out. It's been 10 years now and I have had no issues.16 of my 30 solar panels are renogy solar panels, and i have 6 charge controllers, 3 of them are 60 amp renogy charge controllers, never had an issue with any of my renogy products. I also have Schneider electric and signeer inverters, 2 magnum pt100 charge controllers 100 amp capacity.
Before I had to retire, we had battery operated forklifts, 48 volt, they where in a steel case. I bet that was fun taking them apart. I like your setup, I also use bus bars.
@@staym925 that's great, and sounds like fun with the exception of the heavy lifting, 😂... That's amazing that the batteries are still going strong at 10 years. What type of maintenance do you have to do, and how often?
