I'm Michael. I've specialized in diagnosing/repairing Mercedes Benz vehicles for 13 years. On this channel I share my knowledge and experience with this community of DIY'ers. I've learned from so many of you on RU-vid, I'd like to contribute my expertise with Mercedes Benz to the community. I hope you benefit from these videos. If these videos have helped you or you enjoy watching them please "Like" and subscribe to my channel. Thank you!
Contact us at: 818-510-3375 or visit our website: mercedesbenzspecialist.net/
I've got the same issue with my 2012/13 Benz C350. This problem started when a mechanic replaced the steering lock. At least now i know that the steering angle sensor got damaged in the process. I will have to replace the steering angle sensor. Thanks again for sharing, very informative video. I've subscribed to your channel 👍
Hello, are you able to remove the Immo chip from a Bosch ECU, if someone wants to use a newer engine in an older car as a standalone unit? In my case it would be the ECU from a 1998 Mercedes 2.3 Kompressor... Thank you.
Hi, I tried everything that you explained in the video. All the cluster light turn on, I hear the steering lock unlocking, I have ground signal at pin 85, have 12.5V at pins 30 and 86, but I don’t have power to pin 87 in the fuse box while someone is cranking. What could be? Please help!
I have a 2015 mercedes benz c300 no crank, shift selector not powering up, the 30amp fuse to the starter is a stray ground. I checked with a power probe, and then I put power to the fuse with my power probe, and I get the engine to cranck. That's crazy I can see powering the starter relay but not the fuse. This car is a nightmare, nothing like I ever had before. Need help. A y Ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Glad it worked. Get this issue fixed permanently using our ESL emulator programming service. mercedesbenzspecialist.net/all-products-%26-services/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator
I have an 0745 and 2091 only one bank at idle. I also a feel a little shutter or jerk sitting at a light while in drive. It’s a 2010 E63. Possibly be intake gasket? Or throttle body inside of the intake? I figured if the intake itself was leaking then there would be lean codes on both banks…not much info about this online. I’m going to smoke test it when i get home and see what I can come up with.
You’re welcome. If you need an esl emulator programmed. We offer that service. mercedesbenzspecialist.net/all-products-%26-services/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator
What do we do when the lights don't even come on? I have a W204 C250, and I had an issue with the ESL, and got it replaced with an emulator. I get a DTC that my ABS failed and the car won't drive too fast. I make it home and park, try to unlock the car in the morning, and I get no response from unlocking the car, to the point I had to call a locksmith. He opens it, the alarm goes off, and I put it in the ignition, and the car cranks on the first try. After that, I cut it off, go to Autozone, and come back. Car doesn't start and no lights on the dash. Only codes I've gotten is : C0031, P0705 So my symptoms are: No Dash Lights Car Won't recognize the Key Fob, even when inserted Front Left Wheel Speed Sensor Malfunction No Crank whatsoever Have yall ever heard of a wheel sensor making a car unable to start? I dont have ESL issues so what could it be?
First you have to address the no dash lights. This indicates you don’t have drive authorization. There is a problem with one or more of the three components that grant drive authorization. The EIS, ESL, and key. If you don’t have dash lights. One of these is the issue. Contact me at 818 510 3375.
hello, I have a W176( A180) year 2015. I got an EIS together with it's key. can I replace it straight away or is there any sort of reprogramming required? thank you in advance for your support.
Ok,well thanks for the eye opener, I'm tired of no radio after 10 seconds, 03 SL500, replaced both batteries, tested front starter battery, I believe 14.1 or 2 V, had no idea of the joint charging fuse and K57 relay, I thank you, will let you know Sir ! Okay, every test seemed good for voltage, at one point the rear battery (new) with A/C on went to 13.9 then bounced to 14.1. Pulled Bose subwoffer, blue 100 watt fuse was intact, everything tight, put back together, will have friend do major scan, thanks again
Awesome video, thank you so much for the knowledge!🙏 I do have 1 question though.. I shorted the 2 pins and the car cranked but didn’t start. Based off that do you have any suggestions on what I should try next?
Can you tell me why you're loosening the top screws when all you really need is to remove the two screws at the bottom of the steering column that hold the ESL in place?
Removing the two bottom screws without loosening or removing the top screws does nothing for you. If you don’t loosen/remove the top screws the column won’t budge even with the bottom screws removed.
@@mercedesbenzspecialist how do you remove the actual ESL itself from the steering column? I think you missed showing that part. My car is currently in the unlocked position. Thankfully. I want to make the most of it and take the sucker out
@@mercedesbenzspecialist That's the point point I'm missing. Why would I need the column to budge? I'm just removing the ESL here and that unit is at the bottom of the column correct? Also, can you explain how to remove the actual ESL itself from the column?
@@iammdeepak1 I don’t. I’ll record that one day. The emulator can be zip tied anywhere out of the way of moving parts. Contact me by phone 818 510 3375
I have similar problems for my c-300 from2012. Trying 5-6 times to start and light on board but did not crank the starter after a while and 5-6 tries it’s start. Happened this 2-3 times in the last week. Is this a sign that something is kind of found to die soon? Is this an indication that some relays or fuse or ecm is going to fail soon?
@@zahariastoianovici8590 yes this means something is failing. It’s not a fuse, when a fuse breaks, it won’t work intermittently. It could be a relay, it could be the ECM. Do the test in this video when it’s not starting. If you get no ground at the starter relay as shown in the video. It’s your ecm.
The electronic steering lock must be removed. We program an electronic steering lock emulator to replace the faulty factory lock. Learn more by watching videos on our website. All the videos on this page are about the steering lock issue. mercedesbenzspecialist.net/esl-videos You can also call us at 818 510 3375 Monday-Friday 7am-5pm. Pacific time.
If you have a W204 (2008-2014 C class). You probably have a bad steering lock. It’s part of the drive authorization system. Your car won’t crank if your steering lock has failed. Check out more videos on our website to learn all about this issue and how to fix it. You can also reach out to his 818 510 3375
@@brittanybergeron7242 That confirms the issue is the steering lock. Yours failed in the locked position. We can help. Send us your ignition switch and one key. We will program a steering emulator to replace the failed steering lock. Checkout our website for more info. You can call us on Monday too. 818-510-3375
Should the suspension lift right up after replacing this hose or do you have to pressurize it somehow? I replaced this hose and topped off fluid but my car is still sitting low
No. You will need to "Prime the pump". Inject air into the large fluid reservoir. 15 psi with shop air or a pump. Once the reservoir is primed with 15 psi. Start the car. The pump should suck most of the fluid out of the reservoir within a few seconds. Be ready to add more fluid as needed. You'll be removing the dipstick then plugging the hole where the dipstick lives with a rubber stopper. The rubber stopper should have a hole through it. You can buy these on Amazon. Fill the reservoir with 15psi of air. No more than 15 psi. Too much air and the reservoir will blow up, very messy. Ask me how I know this. :)
I got a quick question. When you took out the 7.5 fuse and put it back in and then the jump that you did on the relay was the locking module still connected while you did that because I didn’t understand that part there.??? The reason I ask is because initially you said that the module the locking module got stuck in the unlocked position, so was it still connected under the steering wheel when you did that that’s what I meant.
Glad this helped. We have a permanent solution for this issue. It's very affordable. You can check out the details on our website here: mercedesbenzspecialist.net/all-products-%26-services/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator You can also reach out to us by phone. 818 510 3375
If I unplug the lock in the UNLOCK position, shouldn't I just have to send in the ignition switch with the key and plug emulator when I get it? I mean its not going to have power to re-engage right?
Yes that's correct. You can leave it in the steering column if it's 100% unlocked. How do you know? If you can't hear the lock hitting the steering column when you move the steering wheel. It's 100% unlocked.
Where does the emulator go plugged into? I am lost brother.. Where was the lock located at and where does the emulator go? Another question. If the bolt on the locking mechanism needs to be pushed down in order to signal that the steering is unlocked, wouldn't it be easier to just glue it sealed in that position or even cut it and bridge the switch itself. Just questions based on observation of the video.
Best if you watch this video. It’s a newer version of the one you watched. I went over the removal of the esl in detail. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UOleKd9mx48.html Also, the bolt has nothing to do with signaling that the esl is in the unlocked position as far as granting drive authorization. That authorization is granted by two switches on the circuit board. And no keeping the switches in the depressed (open lock) position won’t solve this issue. Our solution of replacing the factory ESL with an electronic emulator is the most reliable and affordable solution. Why try and reinvent the wheel? Go with a tested and proven working solution. You can find our esl emulator programming service here: mercedesbenzspecialist.net/all-products-%26-services/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator 818 510 3375
@@mercedesbenzspecialist Now on the other video you are removing the whole column because it is still in the lock position, Correct ??? Also, if I already have it in the unlock position do I disconnect the batter at that point with the key on so that it won't lock itself before I take the air bag and that other stuff off? The reason I ask is because mine is not that bad yet that its locking all the time. So I want to get this done before it gets bad. Oh one more thing. After we do this. The steering will no longer lock correct?
Yes! Smart to tackle it before it’s stuck in the locked position. Get it to unlock with the key. Disconnect the battery, then remove the electrical connector from the steering lock. That’s going to save you hours of labor. You won’t have to remove the whole steering column. Yes once the lock is disconnected in the open position it won’t lock the steering wheel ever again. You connect our programmed emulator and go!
You can send your EIS and key in for testing. I can offer a solution for either the EIS, key, or ESL. You can checkout for a diagnostic on this page. mercedesbenzspecialist.net/all-products-%26-services/ols/products/diagnostics The email you receive after checking out will give you the order number and mailing address. Include the order number with your EIS and key.
@@philconley9516 call me at 818 510 3375 Or go to our website and purchase the service. Then send in your original EIS and one of your key fobs to the address given in your order confirmation e-mail. mercedesbenzspecialist.net/all-products-%26-services/ols/products/2009-2012-w164-eis-repair
Hi, I've got a e220 cdi but get no esl lights. Fuses are all good and relays but will be checking the connections and cables today. Is there anyway of removing the fusebox?
When someone is cranking the vehicle, you should find ground at slot 85 and battery power at 86. Slot 30 should have battery power on always. If 85 and 86 have power and ground they will close the relay circuit sending battery power from 30 through 87 directly to circuit 50 (that's the circuit going directly to your starter solenoid. If you're wondering what slot 85 86 30 and 87 are. I'm referring to the slots in the fuse box located at the firewall on the driver side where the starter relay lives. Pull up the starter relay and you will find these slots. Your relay will probably have a diagram on the cover.
