I saddle stitch differently.... I put both needle points into the hole, one on top and one on bottom, and pull the needles out one at a time (so it doesn't stretch the hole out) I find it gives me a perfect looking stitch. Does anyone else do it this way? Is there a potential problem doing it this way? Just curious.
I truly appreciate the time, dedication, and effort you've invested in this. I found it necessary to split it into sections, not to diminish its value, but to fully absorb the wealth of information you've provided.
Im hand stitching a cartridge belt of 9-10 oz.veg tan.....with a liner of 4-5 oz...suede...What size and type iron do i need??....What size threading needles and thread size/type ?..And how many SPI ?.....Answers would be greatly appreciated..Thank you
EXCELLENT! Even if I wasn't interested in leatherwork (I have just started - made one folding-knife sheath) I would watch your videos simply to enjoy your wonderful teaching style. It's so refreshing to see someone teach the reasoning behind a methind and not simply say, "do it this way". There is no way I could absorb everything you said in one viewing, so the series is bookmarked and I'll be watching it multiple times. A very mundane question, if I may. The block you used to rest the leather on when punching through the leather in the third video looks to be extremely heavy and robust, yet it is soft enough to not damage the pricking irons. What is is made of? Have you laminated two materials together? Thank you for being so generous with your knowledge.
Hi Nigel, Just been watching your tutorial on the modern saddle stitch episode 2 and just want to point out that the way you are using the pricking iron on the 2 pieces of leather will cause a problem because when you stitch the 2 pieces together , the stitching holes now create an X and are not either a forward / or a back /. This X will cause the needle to punch through leather fibre that has not been pricked with the iron. Other than that I have learned an immense amout fron your tutelage ! Thanx Russell
I disagree with the angle tensions being used to suggest you know what you're doing...that's a ridiculous hypothesis. Hermes bag makers for example use many different types of leather and all use this angled.approach to tension when stitching . I've visited the Hermes studios several times in Pantin Paris and examined work close up, and there was no evidence of elongated stitching holes back or front, unevenness or irregular stitch length
Disculpe mi observación. Estas herramientas, las de acero blando y las templadas tienen distintas aplicaciones, para distintas costuras y principalmente para cueros diferentes. Por regla general para cueros de espesor mayor a 2 mm se las utiliza solo para marcar. Para cueros finos, curtidos al cromo se los puede utilizar para perforar totalmente la pieza a coser siempre que el espesor total no supera los 2 mm. Aprendí esto doblando varios de ellos de acero blando y quebrando dientes en el caso de los de acero duro. Todo por utilizarlas inadecuadamente. Espero sea de utilidad. Saludos.
Thank you so much for making these videos available. They are priceless. I'm about to start part 4, Haveing watched the first 3 I have to say that I've learned more in those 3 videos than I've learned in the months I've spent with other youtube videos combined. However, I do need to do a shout out to Mascon Leathers. In one of his videos he mentions that if you want to learn to stitch correctly you need to watch Nigel Armitage. Clearly that was great advice. I wish I'd started leather work years ago. Some people say that there is magic in touching gold. Gold is okay but it doesn't compare to the magic I feel when touching leather. I know that you understand that feeling. You can't do the work you do without feeling that magic.
How do you determine what the best leather is to practice on as a beginner? Is there a resource somewhere that explains what you should buy? I bought one of those kit things off Amazon and from what you are saying here it seems like that's not the best idea and might've been a waste of money. Also while leatherwork is not a cheap hobby are there ways to cheaply learn and perfect your skills before spending money on the kind of leather you might make products out of? I've watched the videos through to get an understanding but where does someone cutting their teeth go for throw away leather on which to practice? If the leather is thinner and more supple how do you secure it? You've mentioned leather with a fluffy back being badly cut but are there ways to still use it for practice or application? I'm really wanting to get into leatherwork and I've purchased some things but there is so much to starting that is difficult to navigate. Is a stitching pony or clamp essential when starting out? Having already probably wasted money, what is the best way to find out what I should be buying as a complete new hobbyist? Absolutely adore the tutorials, how painstakingly you repeat the demonstration. Thank you for such an amazing lesson and for free.
Secrets from the master indeed! This really puts it all into place and fits well, a lot of missing gaps from the other guys and gals online making videos. Cheers Nige!
Nice review. Correct me if I'm wrong, in Japan doesn't they skive with the bevel down mostly? Because I remember buying a skiving knife in the beginning when I started this craft, and it was sold as a right handed beveler (with the bevel down) and I have always done it that way and feel like I have good control and get good results skiving that way. And European skiving knives are as you say bevel up when skiving.
This is such an excellent tutorial by a great teacher. I watched all three parts. I'm totally a "jam in the sandwich" guy now. I do think there is opportunity for a tool that ensures your stitching iron/chisel is at a perfect 90 degrees. Free-handing the stitching iron/chisel always seems risky - especially with a thick work piece.
I don't agree about the tension angles. There are more situations where the thread have to be tensioned at an angle, with very thin leather, for example a watch strap around 2mm in thickness, it will be impossible (at least with a lot of leather types) to get a nice slant on both sides unless the thread is tensioned at an angle. (And of course it's stitched with a cast) And yes I can stitch with good consistent results.
Nigel, your are one of a kind. Just pure gold. I have been struggling alone with straight uniform stitch line for months. And just like that, it’s all in the past. Will you be making a tutorial about stitching around corners and curves?
I am a knifemaker and leather worker. The energy in my work environment is very important to me. As you pointed out, it can add or subtract from my mood. You have an absolutely beautiful environment in which to work. Thank you for showing us around.
Thank you for that. Workshops are like painting the Sydney Harbour bridge never a totally finished project. Just one thing the bench grinders seem to have only 2 polishing wheels, how do you "work through the grits" with 2 wheels?
Itd be great if you took a little inspiration from Adam savage when he focus' on a group/type of tool and the specific application of each one and why without necessarily going into the nitty gritty, which I think would be one ot the better ways to go about the your collection of tools. Also, if people are bringing fridge magnets itd be great for you to have one too!
I followed the sessions and also got your pouches, wallets and belt packs which Im using to learn the craft. I've started on the pouches number one ended up looking like a dogs dinner but the second with the gusset shows a much improved technique. So thanks for your time putting these together they are a great resource.
Of course, I am now green with envy, with all your tools and space, I first thought it much too dark, but now see you have ample lighting for when you need it to see your work, I just love your home! I notice you have no place for the powered aspects of leathercraft, keeping to the hand-made basics of the craft aside from tool maintenance. Being a poor man, sewing machines that work with the heavy veg-tan I use mostly, ( holsters, belts & knife sheaths) are far beyond my kitchen-table operation anyway, over here "across the pond".... in short, Mr. Armitage, I love your shop, and your work and style of our Craft. I've learned from your stitching vids, and we are fortunate to have you as an ambassador of sorts for handwork leather crafters everywhere! If I ever hit the lottery, besides building a decent shop I'd love to come to England and take your courses, in person. Cheers, and again thanks for your efforts!
"ndeed, the hall of an honorable, glorious, and widely renowned king beyond the borders of his land... so would the skalds intone. 👏👏👏👏 Torcs and fridge magnets… nice idea 😜 Man, I like that „cave“ 🙏
A different option if you are able that I used at first to sharpen knives is to get a flat piece of granite or sheet of steel and then just use sandpaper of various grits to refine the edges. It is extremely effective and amazon has packs that you can get that go from 400 to 3000 grit as well as packs that go from 3000 to 15000 grit for that mirror shine.
Thanks so much for this. Been doing loads of research before shelling out for some irons. Had seen Kevin Lee and wondered - your video convinced me. Bought a set yesterday - can't wait to get them. Thank you for sharing
Just like many if not all the others that have commented at this point in time I appreciate the detailed walkthrough. I have seen many demonstrate doing the same things you are without explaining the reasons why as you said. Because of this video I have changed my mind and now realize that I need a stitching pony. Not that I don’t do well without one but I now see that consistency comes from consistency. The consistency of the grip from the pony frees up both hands to work equally. Thank you.
