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How to Hand Stitch Leather - Saddle Stitch - Modern Style - Tutorial Part 2 

Armitage Leather Ltd
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With the internet littered with misinformation on this topic, here you will find a tried and tested technique, one I teach my students, that will elevate any item made with quality stitching.
It is a huge video, three hours!! so it has been broken down into three parts.
This is part 2.
For more I information on what I teach, visit www.secretsfromtheworkshop.com

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28 янв 2024

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Комментарии : 49   
@bardster
@bardster 3 месяца назад
Everything you have ever taught us about stitch, in three fantastic videos. Required viewing for any budding leather worker!
@eerht33
@eerht33 3 месяца назад
How can I give this video a million thumbs up?!? I had sooooo many questions that have been answered between Part 1 and 2 already. I'm going right on to watch Part 3
@timothyreeves3315
@timothyreeves3315 2 месяца назад
It’s truly amazing how the color pops in the thread when you hammer it down.
@joshuating5265
@joshuating5265 2 месяца назад
Absolute masterclass
@viroslav21
@viroslav21 2 месяца назад
Absolutely fantastic tutorials. ❤Thank you so much.
@ArmitageLeather
@ArmitageLeather 2 месяца назад
Thank you for the lovely words.
@Fingerchisel
@Fingerchisel 3 месяца назад
Thank you for making stitching so much clearer.
@Fingerchisel
@Fingerchisel 3 месяца назад
Now all I need is to find out where to buy these things in the UK.
@mp_martin
@mp_martin 3 месяца назад
Thanks for the app. Very useful. And thanks for the updated FREE lessons.
@ricardobp007
@ricardobp007 2 дня назад
Great video!!!
@broken1965
@broken1965 3 месяца назад
I learned more in 2 vids than years of bad video examples but I've been a old school lace person thread stiching is kinda new for me an enjoy it more😢
@dreamerartworx
@dreamerartworx 2 месяца назад
EXTREMELY GOOD tutorial! Great info, great video angles and also for speaking clearly so it's easy to understand! Thank you for including all the small details and all important things! I really appreciate that you brought up what happens if you have an angle of the thread when tensioning. Thank you alot! You have my respect and my subscription! :) Have a great day and keep up the good work! Thank you!
@sist1756
@sist1756 3 месяца назад
Thank you so much for that informative and detailed tutorial👍. Liked and subscribed. Greetings from Germany👋
@FinFu509
@FinFu509 3 месяца назад
I started my leather work recently and I’ve seen many tutorials, but nothing like this! Most of the materials I’ve seen in the past are tips, but what you’re giving here is definitely lessons! Thank you so much!
@robhite8885
@robhite8885 Месяц назад
Just like many if not all the others that have commented at this point in time I appreciate the detailed walkthrough. I have seen many demonstrate doing the same things you are without explaining the reasons why as you said. Because of this video I have changed my mind and now realize that I need a stitching pony. Not that I don’t do well without one but I now see that consistency comes from consistency. The consistency of the grip from the pony frees up both hands to work equally. Thank you.
@Ps2352
@Ps2352 3 месяца назад
Absolutely the best instruction on stitching leather! You’ve answered so many questions. I can’t wait to put these to use. The calculator is brilliant. Wow, it’s these small things that inspire. I appreciate it immensely.
@ArmitageLeather
@ArmitageLeather 2 месяца назад
Thank you, glad you find it of use.
@brianayres4566
@brianayres4566 13 дней назад
Thank you, this has been very helpful. Im just starting out. I had to repair the stitching on a knife sheath and think I've caught the "bug"!
@russellbattersby4474
@russellbattersby4474 22 дня назад
Hi Nigel, Just been watching your tutorial on the modern saddle stitch episode 2 and just want to point out that the way you are using the pricking iron on the 2 pieces of leather will cause a problem because when you stitch the 2 pieces together , the stitching holes now create an X and are not either a forward / or a back /. This X will cause the needle to punch through leather fibre that has not been pricked with the iron. Other than that I have learned an immense amout fron your tutelage ! Thanx Russell
@madcat1007
@madcat1007 15 дней назад
Yeah I noticed that too. I don't understand why he would not glue the pieces together first and then punch through. Maybe been at the vino!!!
@springstreetgarage5499
@springstreetgarage5499 3 месяца назад
Thank you for an amazingly informative video. I'm just starting leatherwork and have watched dozens of videos on saddle stitching that mostly say, "do it this way." Your explanation of WHY to do it "this way" is the best information I've received yet.
@davemcgahhey
@davemcgahhey 3 месяца назад
Thank you so much! Well worth the time. Everything you said makes so much sense and now I know why. Much appreciated!
@penworkstudios
@penworkstudios 3 месяца назад
Thank you for clarifying the thread length, I still measure by hand much of my stuff and I write it down on projects I already know that take that length. But you have given me a better explanation of how this tried and true process works so I can teach this to my students.
@VonDutch68
@VonDutch68 3 месяца назад
Thanks Nigel ! Now I know why I was piercing thread regularly......😊
@Sayid112
@Sayid112 3 месяца назад
What type of punching pad is for your chisel? Do you have a link?
@jgdevoe
@jgdevoe 3 месяца назад
Good info on Tandy (no idea it was that old) and on stitch groove. Of course that was a tool I first thought I had to have.
@ArmitageLeather
@ArmitageLeather 2 месяца назад
I think you are referring to one of the other videos on the review section of the channel. Glad you have clarity on the Stitch Groove.
@harindergill7221
@harindergill7221 3 месяца назад
Thank you again
@madcat1007
@madcat1007 15 дней назад
If, as you say, a stitch groove allows water ingress, then surely punching holes in it also allows water in? Or am I missing something?
@robdubent
@robdubent 3 месяца назад
I’ll still use a stitch groover for certain things like knife sheaths, etc. if they’ve been cases. Also like to do it on the suede side of things where there will be any of rubbing like card pockets in soft wallets, etc but it isn’t necessary in most applications
@davidenglund
@davidenglund 3 месяца назад
@ArmitageLeather, thanks so much for this very detailed teaching on saddle stitching. It's finally making sense to me! LoL. Question. What about when you have three layers of thick leather (e.g., 3 layers of 7-9 oz) such as for some knife sheaths? What's the correct way to punch your stitch holes through then? I'm a beginner, and I'm afraid I just pounded that chisel down until it got through. But the holes on the back were tiny and hard to get through with the needle. And, from your video I now know I was damaging my face side by pounding the chisel in so hard. Can you please explain how to do this properly?? Thanks!
@michaelshea4834
@michaelshea4834 3 месяца назад
Nigel actually builds a knife sheath on his website. The the things you'll pick up from the instruction is invaluable. You'll be quite thrilled with the content. It is every bit as good as these three videos. (I have not built any of these sheaths myself, built have built many other things)
@davidenglund
@davidenglund 3 месяца назад
@@michaelshea4834 Thanks, but can't afford another monthly bill.
@samg8822
@samg8822 3 месяца назад
There is more video content for RU-vid to follow on the subject of saddlestitch and its applications, including multiple layers. Stay tuned.
@hackdlc
@hackdlc 3 месяца назад
You’ve probably forgotten more about leather working than I have learned. I quit using a stitch groomer early on and I just use my dividers.
@jgdevoe
@jgdevoe 2 месяца назад
At the 15" mark you are right hand casting so is that also the face of the work piece? Would you always want to cast on the face side? Might have missed that in first video.
@samg8822
@samg8822 2 месяца назад
I can only suggest that a rewatch of the first video and then this one up to the point of you query is in order. There is a great deal of information in these videos that comes from Nigel’s wealth of experience. Unlike many shorter tutorials that only give a “how to” snapshot, all the reasons why and when are included in this series. Taking one query like yours out of context and giving you a yes or no answer will not teach you how to work it out for yourself and would therefore be pointless as within these videos is the opportunity to learn the details that will make that question void.
@JustinCaseWhat
@JustinCaseWhat 2 месяца назад
Sir, thank you very much for this complete course. Your videos about saddle stitch are amazing (the others are too), so detailed, a first I think, RU-vid wise... Nonetheless, I still have one question... I watched a lot of videos about saddle stich over the years, from various crafters around the world, some more amateur than others, but I noticed that almost all of them keep stitching left handed (left hand priority), with the leather (grain side/face side) facing right. They also keep casting on the left side (flesh side, back of the piece). I used to stitch like that, but I find that the right handed technique and casting on the rightside helps making the face stitch crispier, more detailed. Any thoughts/explanation about this left handed habit? They could be all left handed (XD), but in that case, they would have the face side of the leather facing left... Thank you!
@ArmitageLeather
@ArmitageLeather 2 месяца назад
I think you have answered your own question here Justin, if you find my method works for you, then it is a good method. As for why others are doing what they are doing, like you, I would have to ask them.
@PastorTFS
@PastorTFS 2 месяца назад
Great leatherwork! But I have to say the lighting, focus, angle of the camera work is just as meticulous. I am thankful for that because I can now see exactly what’s being done many of these tutorials have a camera halfway across the room.
@deepdiver849
@deepdiver849 3 месяца назад
Hi Nigel Thanks for this! Just one question. What about the thickness of the thread? Doesn’t it interfere in the length. For example I mostly use 3mm pricking iron, with 0.45mm or 0.35mm...wouldn’t i need more or less depending on the thickness of the thread?
@ArmitageLeather
@ArmitageLeather 3 месяца назад
It's more about the journey that thread takes rather than how thick it is. A 0.35mm thread will travel the same distance as a 1mm thread, so in short, no, it makes little difference.
@deepdiver849
@deepdiver849 3 месяца назад
Thanks for the response. I just wanted to make sure while using your thread length calculator!@@ArmitageLeather
@user-cb9bl5ro1p
@user-cb9bl5ro1p 3 месяца назад
​@@ArmitageLeather Hi nigel just a quick question i am sure you mentioned something about water blisters on one of your recent videos but i cant seem to find it now .i had a few water blisters on a pouch made from sedjwicks 1900s collection leather not near the stitching what would the best way to treat the leather before a project .Thanks
@otdunes7822
@otdunes7822 2 месяца назад
Where do you buy the pounding mat for your pricking irons shown e.g. at 33:39 ? Thanks
@ArmitageLeather
@ArmitageLeather 2 месяца назад
These are Oka Pads, I get ming from SFLeather here in the UK
@otdunes7822
@otdunes7822 2 месяца назад
Thank you ! @@ArmitageLeather
@Raccoonsareawesome
@Raccoonsareawesome Месяц назад
I don't agree about the tension angles. There are more situations where the thread have to be tensioned at an angle, with very thin leather, for example a watch strap around 2mm in thickness, it will be impossible (at least with a lot of leather types) to get a nice slant on both sides unless the thread is tensioned at an angle. (And of course it's stitched with a cast) And yes I can stitch with good consistent results.
@paulfellowes4879
@paulfellowes4879 24 дня назад
I disagree with the angle tensions being used to suggest you know what you're doing...that's a ridiculous hypothesis. Hermes bag makers for example use many different types of leather and all use this angled.approach to tension when stitching . I've visited the Hermes studios several times in Pantin Paris and examined work close up, and there was no evidence of elongated stitching holes back or front, unevenness or irregular stitch length
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